fiestaturbo.com

[Project_XR2i_Trackcar]

Disclaimer:
This is only a rough guide and I am not responsible if you use this and it goes horribly wrong. I am not a mechanic; I have produced this purely as there wasn’t one when I needed it. Therefore I hope this may be of some use to others.

XR2i CVH 1.6 8v to 2.0 Zetec 16v engine conversion

References:

Haynes manual, Ford Fiesta Feb 89- Oct 95 (petrol)


FT.com link - 2.0 conversion details

1.6 si - 2.0 conversion guide

wiring and looms

egr removal and cap finis numbers

Tools required:

Probably just about all of them i imagine lol

You will need to source the following Zetec engine parts:

From a 2.0 16v Mondeo (Mk1)

Silver top engine - It helps to get it complete
Injectors
Throttle body
ECU (DEEP, DEWY or DESK) with matching MAF sensor
MAF housing

From a 1.8 16v XR2i, RS1800 or 1.6 si unless stated

Sump & oil pick up pipe
Disptick & Tube
Exhaust manifold, heat shield & full exhaust system
Inlet manifold complete (the 1.8 is better as it is larger bored)
Fuel rail complete
1.8 throttle body (parts of it are needed)
1.8 Throttle cable
Engine mount (at least the rear one - I eventually fitted aftermarket gearbox mounts)
Water pump & pulley
Alternator pulley
Starter motor
Lamda sensor
Coolant hosing complete
Air inlet & induction kit or similar
Thermostat
1.8 oil pump (however, the 2.0 oil pump can be used with a smaller filter)
Radiator & cooling fan
Cam belt
Gearbox register (alignment plate)

1.6 16v Si Engine loom complete and with all sensors

You will need to keep the following from your cvh:

Clutch, release plate & flywheel (flywheel will need holes boring out)
Alternator & bracket
Alternator & starter motor wiring
Oil pressure switch (if not one on the 2.0 block)

You will also need:

Aux Belt (halfords)
Coolant (halfords)
Oil (ford)
Oil filter (halfords)
New studs, bolts etc as required (ford/halfords)
Gaskets as required (ford)
Fuel line (7mm int dia)
Plus any other odds and sods that break along the way


Lets Begin

Basically, the reason behind this conversion is two fold. Firstly i needed more power on the straights to match the handling through the corners. Secondly, whilst on track at donnington the poor old 8v CVH suddenly gave in the will to live and went clunk and splutter. Coincidence, i'll let you decide........

So, anyway.....on return to my garage i began to strip the engine.

1600 block. Damage to engine turned out to be a No.3 big end melt down. The crank was heavily worn as well. Engine mileage - 110k.

[Project_XR2i_Trackcar]

The CVH block removed from the car





The 2.0 16v Zetec as it was when i collected it......



...and as it was about 2 hours later

[Project_XR2i_Trackcar]

I've pretty much removed all the 8v engine components now. I've removed the radiator and fan, took out all the water hoses, the strut brace (it won't fit over the Zetec inlet manifold) and the complete exhaust system.



Whilst all this was out i gave it a bit of a clean with some gunk, later once all the electrics are out i'll give it a power wash out.



Onto the electrics. As you can i have removed the 8v ECU.



The 8v engine loom, waiting to be removed.



Whilst i was sourcing parts i put a few coats of black hammerite on the block and a few coats of red hammerite spray on the cam cover.

As you can see in the photo below I've decided to keep the 2 ltr oil pump. I'll be using a cvh oil filter - After fitting it didn't foul but is quite close to the inner wing - I will be fitting a relcoation kit and oil cooler in the future anyway. The reason for keeping the 2 ltr oil pump is because i think the 1.8 ltr oil pump could be insufficent.
The mondeo 2 ltr sump is still fitted as i'm awaiting delivery of the 1.8 ltr sump & pick up pipe. The 1.8 ltr sump is required as the exhaust clearance void on the 2.0 ltr sump is on the wrong side.



I also fitted the alternator. I'm using the bracket from the 1.6 cvh block (which has also had a lick of hammerite), this just bolts straight onto the zetec block. I was gonna use the 2 ltr alternator but it was too big for the bracket and i wouldnt be able to adjust/tighten the auxillery belt. What you see is the cleaned up alternator from the cvh. I've also replaced the pulley with the one formthe 2 ltr alternator.

afternote - if fitting engine from the top, leave alternator off as it will foul on the body.



As you can see i have removed the 2.0 water pump. i'm not sure if its comaptible or not as i've read two different things now;
a. that it spins the other way, or
b. it doesn't matter but you have to change the pulley anyway.
So, as a precautionary i've sourced a brand new 1.8 16v water pump. I have also got a new 1.8 16v pulley from ford to go on it.

I've had the 1800 16v inlet manifold delivered now, i was gonna put it on today but i noticed i'm missing the intermediate flange so i've kinda ground to a halt for now. I'm gonna use the 2.0 throttle body as shown, which will need the throttle linkage assembly thingy modifying.

Heres a current pic of the inlet manifold with a couple of Questions annotated..

[Sphinx]

Lookin tidy Good luck with it

[Project_XR2i_Trackcar]

Text removed

[jdfiesta]

yes mate, you do need a flange that the injectors bolt to, then that bolts to head and inlet bolts to that.
JJ

[Project_XR2i_Trackcar]

yeh, i realised that just after i posted

have one sourced now anyway

[steady_eddie_vts]

does the gear box connect straight up?? does the xr2i 8v share the same engine mounts?

[Rhinopower]

good stuff, looks fantastic, would be good to see a spereadsheet and see how much it ACTUALLY costs to do! Keep up the good work

[mike_wall15]

just learnt that the ecu i have is no good

EDAM is an automatic, so i was done over on ebay

I've got my eyes on a DEWY 2.0 si one and have also been offerd a DEEP one.

This is the first time I've read the post and as I was going down I read the EDAM bit and planned on telling you it was for the automatic... then I read that you've found out already...useless ebay...

Get a DEEP one mate, that's what everyone uses without fail, I don't know of anyone that's made any other work.

Mike

[Project_XR2i_Trackcar]

the xr2i 8v gearbox will mount up no problem. the only thing to note is because on the mondeo has the starter motor at the back as opposed to the front on the fiesta there will be a void between the block and the gearbox bell housing at the back. i've purchased a regsiter (ie the plate between the engine and gearbox) from an RS 1800 (new from ford). hopefully this should rectify the void.

Cost so far is around 400 quid. thats for all the 16v bits needed inc the engine, gaskets, new bolts, belts, sump, exhaust, loom etc

[Project_XR2i_Trackcar]

Throttle Body (TB) Modification

Part 1

The throttle linkage on the 2.0 ltr TB is the wrong configuration. Therefore, it needs swapping for the 1.8 16v fiesta one along with a little bit of cutting & grinding:









The Fuel rail inc the 2 ltr brown injectors have been removed from the mondeo inlet manifold as has the engine loom. I will be fitting these once i get the gasket as mentioned above.



The 1.8 16v sump has arrived but i'm still waiting on the pick up pipe, so until that arrives the sump swap is on hold.

1.8 16v Water pump is fitted, pics to follow

[Project_XR2i_Trackcar]

Throttle Body (TB) Modification

Part 2











and the final product....

[Project_XR2i_Trackcar]

The 2 ltr sump is off, as is the oil pick up pipe and the 1.8 ltr sump is on. It's only dummy fitted without the gasket at the moment until i get the pick up pipe delivered (note the difference between the 1.8 ltr and the 2.0 ltr sump pictured in an earlier post).

I've taken the little pulleys from the 2 ltr water pump and put em on the new one as well as dummy fitted the 1.8 ltr aux belt pulley which was new from ford.

I've removed the EGT pipe things from the 1.8 ltr manifold and have dummy fitted that along with new studs, bolts and gasket from ford. Its only dummy fitted as one of the pipe nuts snapped from corrosion so i'll have to drill and tap it out in preperation for the EGT blanking caps which are on order from ford.

I've dummy fitted the Crankshaft pulley so i can work out how to re-fit the cambelt.

The thermostat housing is dummy fitted until i get a new gasket for it. I now realise that i didnt need to take it off.

[Captain Tightpants]

Its good to see complete guides like this,

Keep it up Chris.

Have a good holiday too!

Steve

[ant pittaway]

lookin good

[Project_XR2i_Trackcar]

Well i've now got most of the bits i need, so with some spare time on my hands i did some work on it today

firstly, as i've now got my 1.8 pick up pipe (inc a new gasket), i fitted them along with the 1.8 sump (inc a new rubber gasket). As per the haynes manual i applied sealant (purchased from halfords) as can bee seen in the pic before fitting. I havent any broken down pics of the procedure but, it is simply a case of removing the 2.0 sump and oil pick up pipe and replacing them with the 1.8 items, remembering the sealant and to tighten the sump bolts from the centre and then diagonally outwards.



now i've got the EGR blanking plugs (about £1 each inc washer from ford) i fitted the 1.8 exhaust manifold - note the new studs, nuts and gasket. You can also see i've dummy fitted the 1.8 engine oil disptick tube.



Now i realise that in hindsight i shouldn't have removed it but, armed with a new gasket and o'ring i refitted the mondeo thermostat housing



With a bit of help (ie a haynes manual & my fitter mate checking my work) I also set up the timing, fitted the cambelt and auxilllery belt:



For those of you that haven't noticed, the pics show the water pump pulley the wrong way around - this has now been rectified an will show on later pics.



I'm still waiting on the intermediate to inlet gasket so i dummy fitted the inlet manifold intermediate flange to the head and replaced the old boots on the injectors with new ones (as recommended in haynes). I'm using the brown 2.0 injectors from the mondeo and i've had to get 8x new bolts and 2x new studs.





I also modified (read - went at it with a grinderette ) the rear lifting eye



Two things now holding me up from putting the darn thing in the car now:

1. Inlet manifold - intermediate flange gasket as above

2. Rear engine mount bracket. As you can see i have the mount but i'm awaiting the bracket that fixes between the mount and the engine. Note -its only dummy fitted on the 8v engine mount hole for now, the hole needs re-drilling as will be shown later.



On the 8v there is only one engine mount, as above. The Zetec is obviously heaver and therefore they have a front engine mount as well.
According to a microcat picture that i've seen the mount fits to the engine with a bracket attached to the 1.8 ltr alternator bracket.
I finally decided to do away with the hassle and eventually fitted aftermarket gearbox mounts instead.
Anway, for those that want to use the front engine mount it looks like this and fits around here. It will also need some modification:



I've also removed the 8v engine loom. As you can see here is the 8v 'car loom to engine loom' connector -



and here is a 16v 'engine loom to car loom' connector



as you can see they are different, so it will be a case of removoing the connectors and hard wiring the looms together.

[steveHCS]

Looking great, keep up the good work.

Definately going to go down to donny and watch that beast tear up the track when its done

[Project_XR2i_Trackcar]

Ok, this weekend i got the missing inlet manifold gasket



so, i finally fitted the inlet manifold, first off is the intermediate flange plate gasket (not cheap at £22 ish).



then the intermediate flange plate with fuel rail, injectors and new gasket



then finally the inlet manifold itself. note - i've used all new bolts (Qty8) and studs (Qty 2)



here it is from the front of the engine. I've also fitted the new manifold-downpipe gasket and have got a new spring bolt (£8 for the stud !!!! then i found one in my bag of bolts ).
For the shark eyes amongst you i'm missing a manifold stud - Note to self, there are 9 not 8....... DOH !



another angle



I also got the bracket that goes between the engine mount and the block itself, and here it is fitted. And in case you didint notice, i've also fitted the adapter for my newly purchased racetech oil pressure gauge.



which leads me onto the engine mount. I had a more detailed look at it today, it seems i'm gonna have to move it back about an inch towards the bulkhead, so some adjusting drilling on the top mount bracket on the inner wing is required.

[James-UK]

Very nice, i have a question though if you don't mind, wouldn't it be easier just to use a Fiesta Zetec top mount, or have i missed somthing obviously vital as to why this wouldn't work?

[Project_XR2i_Trackcar]

i'll assume you are refering to the engine mount

if so i am.

the mount i am using is from a 16v zetec fiesta. i therefore have to adapt my 8v fiesta engine bay (ie the bit where the 8v mount was) to the 16v engine mount

if you catch my drift ?

Assuming thats what you are on about

[Project_XR2i_Trackcar]

At this stage the engine is ready to be lifted into the car. I went for the option of lowering from above. It can be done from underneath (ie lfting the car over the engine) but i couldnt be doing with hassle of removing the prop shafts etc.



once i'd removed the engine stand bracket i proceeded to fit the clutch.



First off i fitted the gearbox register. the one i have is from a 1.8 16v.



Next was the 1.6 8v flywheel. bit of a sod on your own, but i eventually got the bolts torqued up to 80 lb ft. note, you will need to re-bore the existing bolt holes to suit the 2 ltr flywheel bolts. i thought i had a pic, but my shyte camera has not taken it . Anyway, i then proceded to fit the clutch and cover plate. you will need a clutch alignment tool for this. the cover plate bolts are tightened 18-25 lb ft.



Once all that was done i then went to lower it into the engine bay



then disaster struck . As my luck would have the hydraulic ram on the crane i've hired is FUBAR. So a quick phone call to HSS and i'm gonna have to get another one tomorrow.

So instead of a pic of it in the engine bay - heres where it will be tonight



As i mentioned earlier, the engine mount needs some modification. By using the 8v mount i marked on the 16v mount where the hole would be, then measured the distance from the 16v stud and ......





........... in my case its 35 mm.



I then transfered that to the bracket in the engine bay. I needed to get a bigger drill bit anyway so i'll do that tomorrow as well now.

[Project_XR2i_Trackcar]

well after eventually getting a replacement crane this afternoon i set upon finishing what i started

The engine was a sod to get in, very tight but with a bit of up, down left a bit, right a bit it eventually went in.

Top Tip!!!!!!! - remove the alternator, i couldnt get it in at first so i removed the alternator and it helped.

So, after about 1/2 an hour, here's the engine in its final position



and as it is now with the exhaust fitted, rad & fan and the alternator back on:





Oh and by the way, just to clarify a myth.

Here is the 2.0 Oil pump with a CVH oil filter fitted - as you can see IT FITS FINE, NO NEED FOR AN 1800 OIL PUMP.




things left to do now

Fit (and re-wire where necessary) engine loom & ECU
Fit starter motor
Fit throttle cable
Fit induction
Fit coolant hoses
fabricate bracket for, and fit modified front engine mount
re-fit bonnet
fill with oil
fill with coolant
fit backbox
fit oil pressure gauge
fit fuel lines

cross fingers & turn the key.


chris

[Rhinopower]

fantastic work mate, if u ever go to do a trackday at silverstone let me know, just round th ecorner to my g/f's! How long do u rekon it would take u to do on a 1.6si if u had everything ready to go??

[Project_XR2i_Trackcar]

2-3 days i reakon

[Project_XR2i_Trackcar]

ok

since my last post i've done quite a bit but i havent been updating this as much. so here's what i've done since my last post:

Re-fitted the Starter motor

Fitted the 1.8 16v throttle cable

Coolant hoses - not complete as yet as i am awaiting parts still. Heres the rad to thermostat housing. The guy who supplied me the rad also gave me a hose with the sensor in it. as you can see it didn't fit, so with some cutting and a hose joiner (en route from burton) i've botched it to fit.

Afternote - After loads of leaks i sourced a new hose from a scrappy that fitted spot on.


There was a threaded hole on the left hand side on the rad, adjacent to the rad-water pump outlet. i checked on microcat and it seems its for models with air con, so as a temp measure its plugged with the thermostat sensor from the cvh that wasn't needed anymore. I was going to use the cvh rad-water pump hose but the 16v water pump hose is a slightly larger diameter, which would have meant using reducers etc. So i thought sod it and got a brand new 16v one from ford for £24. You can also see the hose from the header tank to the rad.



As you can see it branches off, one goes to the heater matrix feed and the other goes to the thermostat housing. The original ford item goes over the heat shield via a metal pipe. In this picture i've temporarily improvised by using 15 mm copper pipe and yorkshire fittings , It leaked like a sod so i eventually replaced it with a proper one sourced from a scrappy.



This pic shows the thermostat housing. Note the 16v thermostat sensor is now fitted. As you can see there are 4 coolant connections:

1. larger one goes to rad as above
2. one below goes across heat shield as above
3. small one goes to header tank
4. the one at the back is the heater matrix return.



Which leads me onto the heater matrix. Unfortunately i got a bit heavy handed and broke off the connector - so i'm now in the process of sourcing a new matrix.

As that came to a grinding halt i moved onto the fueling. The cvh fuel feed is a lot different to the zetec one. I tried to fit the feed pipe from the cvh onto the zetec fuel rail but it didnt fit. so i got some 7mm int dia fuel hose from halfrauds, removed the fuel feed line from the pump, cut it at the nipple (i couldnt remove the old hose as its plastic and heat shrunk) and fitted the new line.



Here's it fitted to the fuel rail hoses. Note - Short = return, long = feed.



Afternote - During the making of this guide i initially fitted a 1.8 16v XR2i loom and RS1800 130ps ECU with the intention of re-mapping it. Since then, i'm now in the process of fitting a complete 1.6 si loom and 2 ltr ECU & MAF.

At this stage i had partially fitted the 1.8 16v engine loom and connected the following:

1. Injector loom - which is now connected to the 4 injectors, Idle control valve, Throttle position sensor, Thermostat sensor, Cam postion sensor and the Air inlet temp sensor (back of inlet manifold).

2. Lamda (aka Hego) sensor

3. MAF (dummy fitted until i get my reducing pipe from burtons)

4. EDIS (big multiplug) - Afternote - External EDIS required for the 1.8 16v loom & ECU.

5. Speedo sensor

6. ECU



I have 2 more connectors not yet connected, which i'm not sure about but i think one goes on the back of the coil pack ? I've checked the wires and its the pulse air solenoid. Afternote - not needed.



The other is the charcoal thingy, its connected to a sensor thing with nozzles coming of it - where do these connect to ? Afternote - There are some nozzles on the back of the inlet manifold. I connected the charcoal thingy to these using vacumn hose.



Still to do on the loom is source another sub loom which has the CPS (Crank postion sensor), another thermostat sensor, coil pack connector and the oil pressure switch connector. This loom will connect into the blue multilpug as seen in the above pic.

I've also re-fitted the bonnet and filled the engine with oil - no leaks as yet

[Project_XR2i_Trackcar]

Wiring up the engine loom

Afternote - I'm currently (Aug 06) in the process of changing the loom and management to 1.6si & 2.0 ltr respectively. As and when its done ill edit this thread accordingly.

First off i needed to get my head round the wiring. After a lot of hours digesting the haynes manual i started work.

Its should noted that during this stage i was using the wiring loom and ecu from a 1.8 16v and RS1800 respectively. As mentioned in an earlier post i needed to marry up the pins on the 2 multiplugs as the 8v and 16v differ (8v has 7 wires, 8 pins - 16v has 9 wires, 12 pins)

So, a lot of effort, chasing looms back and lots of rough notes this is what i came up with:


Multi plug on 1.6 8v car loom - engine loom

Pin - colour - leads to (checked using 8v engine loom)

1 - Black - Coil
2 - Brown - ECU Pin 20 = Grnd & EDIS pin 4
3 - Green - Soldered joint, Qty 2 go into green & Red, possibly coil but untraceable from soldered joint.
4 - Brown - ECU Pin 22 = Fuel pump, Relay 6 connection 85
5 - Black & green - Changes to black = idle speed valve
6 - Brown & Green - Oil pressure switch
7 - Red - ECU pin 1, Fuse box (Fuse 1)
8 - Not used

Afternote - From this point on it's for a 1.8 16v loom. I'll leave it for now and update once the 1.6 si loom is fited.

Multi plug on 1.8 16v engine loom - car loom

Pin - colour

1 - Brown
2 - Green
3 - Brown
4 - Black
5 - Black & Red
6 - Red
7 - Brown & Green
8 - Black & Green
9 - Brown & White
10 - Not used
11 - Not used
12 - Not used

At present i haven't connected 16v no 5 to anything as its still unidentified.

No 5 is either:

Hego (Lamda) sensor
Fuse box, fuse 19 + inertia switch
Fuel pump via into relay or sodlered joint to fuse 20 into fuel inj relay

(Update - no 5 identified, see below)

So from the above i have wired (solder & heat shrink) it up as following

1.8 16v (engine loom) - 1.6 8v (car loom)

Pin - Pin

1 = 2 or 4*
2 = 3
3 = 2 or 4*
4 = 1
5 = Back to Fuse box - via fuse 20 (10A, you will need to add) then splits to join onto the black and Black&green wires which are on Pin 87 of the fuel inj module relay
6 = 7
7 = 6
8 = 5
9 = coolant temp sensor on instr cluster

* - 50/50 it will either start or it wont depending on which way round you do them

you can see the soldered joints as well:



The coolant temp sensor is located next to the rad fan switch. mine was a dirty lookin bullet connector. i cut the connector off and joined it to some 8 amp wire and took it back to the connector block.



Everything electrically is more or less connected now. I gave up looking so i had to make my own sub loom for the cps, coil, oil pressure switch etc as the engine loom i got didn't have it. apparantley some have it wired in, some dont and they are on another multiplug.

The alternator and starter motor are also connected up, took some working out but i got there in the end. If you are happy with the alternator/starter motor then skip this bit:

You should have 3 wires

1. thinnish wire with a ring connector at each end and a female bullet connector each end also.
2. Positive battery connector. Large ring at the other end. also has a smaller ring type connector on it which goes to a small 2 pin plug.
3. Negative battery connector, with an earth. Large ring connector on the other end.

Fix cable 1 to the stud on the alternator and push fit the bullect connector on too. run the cable to the starter motor and fit the ring over the large stud. Connect the other end bullet connector to the male one on the engine loom.

Fix cable 2 to the same stud on the starter motor as cable 1. fit the smaller ring connector onto the smaller stud. connect the small 2 pin plug into the engine loom.

Fix cable 3 to the negative terminal on the battery, fit the earth and fit the other end of the cable to a starter motor fixing bolt.

Finally fit the positive battery end of cable 2 to the battery.

Ok, back on track -

All plumbing is now connected and filled.

I now have the reducing hose for the 2.0 maf. (76 - 63 mm)

The oil pressure gauge is all fitted. i drilled a hole through the bulkhead and with a grommet in place passed the hose through. I then paid my attention to placing the gauge itself. after much thought i decided to do away with the clock and cut a 52 mm hole in it instead. heres the final product:




So i eventually got to turn the key, and.........

..........it turns over but thats it. 2 things spring to mind

1. The black & red wire that needs wiring still.
2. Battery hasn't got enough charge (on charge tonight)

I'll update again when i get the last 1% sorted.

Afternote - 16/04/05 - ECU was faulty, replaced ecu and it started

How it looks as of end of play today:

[Zetecfiesta]

wheres that reducer pipe from and what size did you order? thanks

[Project_XR2i_Trackcar]

76-63 mm

i got it from a stall athe ford spares show at donnington

Burton do them though

[Zetecfiesta]

thanks for that!, you know the original induction pipe you used is it from a rs1800 or si? doubt it matters though, cause i cant use my K&N pipe either.

[Project]

The coolant temp sensor is located next to the rad fan switch. mine was a dirty lookin bullet connector. i cut the connector off and joined it to some 8amp wire and took it back to the connector block.

Zetecs should, unless they've been worked on by a complete fool, use a 2-pin waterproof Ford connector a-la-fan switch on the coolant temp sensor.

Hence why I'm still concerned your loom isn't a Fiesta Zetec one, or at least is a very strange one...!

/al

[Project_XR2i_Trackcar]

al

that 2 pin thermostsat connector is also there and connnected mate. its on the bottom of the thermostat housing under the thermostat-rad hose, just above.

The 2 pin plug is a brown & white and a brown wire.

By using that single pin connector (which went to the coolant temp sensor on the 8v head) i have effectively sent the brown & white wire from the 2 pin plug (if i'm right, see below) back into the instr cluster to the coolant temp sensor

I will confirm by checking the circuit between the brown & white wire on the 2 pin plug and the brown and white wire in the connector block (which would have been on the 16v car loom multiplug)

[Project]

Ok, so if you're using the temp sensor wiring on the car side of the loom you don't need to worry about the brown/white on the engine-loom-to-car-loom plug.

That makes more sense now...!

/al

[beaker]

I'm another one who would be very interested in a real-world cost breakdown.

Plus, it would be handy to see a full list of the part you need to do the conversion. Warts and all.

[Project_XR2i_Trackcar]

beaker

No worries i've been doing a spreadsheet as i progress through it. Bit behind but once the darn thing is runnning i'll post it up

I'll also post up all the wiring needed (inc my diagrams etc)