fiestaturbo.com

[heeman10]

What about the gap between the second 4 and second L? That has to stay right? So basically just lop off the blue stuff?

[Ghost]

What about the gap between the second 4 and second L? That has to stay right? So basically just lop off the blue stuff?

yep!

and it is perfectly legal like Rawlison said, 11mm

sounds absoultely gorgeous mate!!

hav you any idea of the total costings??

cheers

Ghost

[MarkRS2K]

sounds like a pigeons stuck in there, coming along nicely mate

[heeman10]

It's not a pigeon and you're all gits! Thanks for the comments dudes

Ghost - When I'm very bored and suicidal one day, I'll make an attempt to add it all up. It's about one and a half times what I thought it would be I think.

[Max M4X WW]

Get a 'ZT' plate or summit. Look much better shorter

Good luck with the MOT and everything

[FezzR]

radically over fueling + emmisons test = no MOT
did you not check the impedance of the jectors?

looking sweet.

[heeman10]

All I know is that the injectors are high impedance, perhaps around 14.5ish. I'm going to have to see how friendly the MOT guy will be. It just needs its MOT so MSD can map it. They will set it up so the emissions pass an MOT fine, so I'm hoping he'll let it go, and I can go back to show him how low the emissions are after being set up. The MOT just ran out at a REALLY awkward time, nothing I could do about that. I guess I've got FRST injectors if he won't let me through.

Cheers Max I won't be getting a ZT number plate, hardly a plate I can pass on from car to car is it?!

[heeman10]

Poo is hitting fans left right and centre Came to start the car today to check it all over again before the MOT. It coughed and died after about ten seconds and wouldn't restart. Fuel was low, but it's run lower than that. I drove to the station and got 15 litres, put it all in, and it started, then spluttered, wouldn't take any throttle, coughing up clouds of petrol from the exhaust, then died. When I turn the fog lights on, one fog comes on and one indicator comes on permanently. I'm totally frustrated and extremely annoyed and concerned now, and would like to curl up in a ball in a shed far, far away and die TBH!

[MAD_Adamski]

oh dear you have the RS bug mate welcome to our world.....

[RS_Rawli]

s**t

[heeman10]

I don't want to be a part of your world if this is what it's like Ad! I couldn't feel any air coming out from the ACT sensor, but putting my ear right up against it I could hear hissing. I wonder if such a small leak would be causing this. Disconnected CTS and IAT sensors one by one with no effect, so I think they're ok. Cleaned the plugs up, no change. It idles ok-ish for about 10 seconds, then starts coughing and choking, won't accept any throttle then dies. Most bizarre I'll get my dad to put his finger over the hole the ACT sensor was in and see what happens. Can't locate any other air leaks though, so if that wasn't it it's back to square one I go - my home for the last few months!!

[Rhinopower]

havent fried the ecu again have u?

[heeman10]

Nah, that won't be it. I've just tried it now with my dad holding his finger over the hole, and that could just have been it I think. I was sitting there seeing if it would hold an even idle, and he was playing around, taking his finger off etc to see how it was affecting it. I was annoyed, thinking because the idle was jumping up and down I hadn't found the problem at all, when if fact it was him buggering around! Told him to keep his finger on to let it idle, and it did. It also revved properly up to boosting levels without spluttering, so I might've found the problem! Don't want to go counting chickens, but I'll try it again tomorrow from cold, and see if my dad'll hold his finger on till it all warms up etc. If it'll warm idle where it should, I'll be very happy.

[andyhardy]

Sounds like an air leak mate - they rely heavily on the inlet side of things being sealed! My car was off the road for 4 days whilst I sorted out a suitable nut to replace the one that blasted out on my inlet manifold/throttle body!

Seal it up and it should be fine again. What's going on with the MOT situation?

Cheers,

Andy

[heeman10]

Yeah I remember that all too well Andy! I had to call up and cancel the MOT, he didn't sound particularly happy, but these things can't be helped. I tried the sensor with PTFE tape but it didn't want to take the thread. I'll try again though, and hope I can get a proper air-tight seal. It'd be a dream come true if that, plus some beiges allowed it to run well enough to drive it to MSD

[MotorcyclesFish]

The foglight/indicator problem sounds like a bad earth in that section of the wiring bit.

[heeman10]

Yeah I know.....I just have no idea where, or why anything should've changed

[SantaHul]

maybe because its been standing so long

[heeman10]

Nope, everything's all clean still, and the looms have all been out and replaced etc. I tested all lights on the car about three weeks ago, and about a month before that too, with no problems. Nothing has been changed since then, bar the alarm I've installed, but I've removed no earths or touched the fog light wiring that I can think off

[MotorcyclesFish]

The car's been standing. You've been fiddling. Earths are evil buggers, it only takes a bit of corrosion or a poorly-seated or poorly-cleaned earth site to give up with a little encouragement.

Try taking all the earth points around the headlamp/indicator area off and cleaning them up with a bit of scotchy or some rubbing paper or something. It's a damn sight cheaper and less tearful than pulling tons of fiddly bits off...

[heeman10]

Yeah I will be doing matey, just focusing on the engine at the moment. I got the ACT sensor to go in with PTFE tape this time, and it did up properly tightly and sealed. I now have a lovely even idle, and it revs through the range cleanly (as cleanly as it can with these injectors, still pretty smooth though) and all is well again When I say ACT sensor, I mean my aftermarket sensor for my gauge, not the factory IAT sensor.

There had been a bit of a clattering coming from the left hand side of the engine which increased with revs. I thought it was the alternator belt, as it felt as though it could go a touch tighter. I've tightened it up a touch, but the clattering was still there. I took the end covers off to find the cambelt doing this!







This is one of the things I've been assuming will be ok, but I'm learning it's not good to assume some things! Not sure how it tensions yet, as I'd just taken these pics when it started raining I'll take a look this afternoon if it stops...anyone want to brief me beforehand about increasing the tension on a Zetec cambelt?

xrsi has very kindly offered to lend me some beige injectors (if he can get hold of them, he plans to use them in his engine) which I can hopefully have at the weekend or early next week. In the meantime I can sort the lights issue out. The engine originally ran on beiges and the chip I have, so in theory it should be spot on, and allow me to drive to MSD, which I would much prefer to do Things are looking up again!

Oh....the "good with bad" syndrome strikes again - I seem to have water around the hose I've only just put back on....something is not right down there Air bubbles are still finding their way out of the coolant system too, and the level seems to have risen. It must be drawing air in somewhere or something

[Andy.B]

Hope this helps

[heeman10]

Cool beans, cheers Andy The tension between the tensioner wheel and the left cam pulley seems ok, am I alright tightening the belt to bring the two vertical (long) sections of the belt up to a healthier tension? And this won't put my timing out at all with it? I still haven't timed an engine up!!

[MotorcyclesFish]

Put it like this, it won't be as far out by tensioning as it will when the belt snaps.

(man, I've got to stop following you round the forum making snide comments...)

[heeman10]

Yes you have I dunno, I"ll tighten it till it makes a nice twanging sound

[heeman10]

Welll having another look, the belt does seem to be about the right tension. I thought it seemed a little slack, but I'm only getting 90 degrees of rotation, so I've left it. Still getting a noise though

I went and checked the only earth bolt (little 8mm bolt inside driver's wing) that could cause the problem and it was loose somehow! Was sure I hadn't touched it! All is well with the lights, so just waiting for beiges.

[PaulC]

Was that the bolt I mentioned in the other thread mate?

Tension doesnt look that bad, but its hard to tell using pics really. The spring is meant to tension the belt, but if it hasnt been replace for a while, you can take it of and manually tension it using a 6mm hex key as in Andy's diagram.

[PaulC]

Check the belt covers as well, the back one on mine wasnt quite tight after changing the belt and it made a load of noise

[heeman10]

I'm not sure, can't remember which one you mentioned It was only ever going to be an earthing problem, due to the odd nature of it, and it could only really be that bolt, but I was quite certain I'd tightened it and not been back to it. No major biggie, I was concentrating on the engine, not the poxy lights, but thought I might as well check the bolt while the socket set was out in that area

The belt covers are fine, and it's hard to pinpoint where it's coming from. The idle's up and down again when it's warmed up, what on earth is going on?? It's solid when cold, but crap when warm, plus the water's doing funny things. Water level is on/just below MIN when the engine's off, but when it's on it rises to the top seam about an inch above MAX, with bubbles still coming up every now and then WTF?

[andyhardy]

One of the guys will be able to tell you but it's best to tension them up when the engine is warm - the belt expands with the heat, so best to try and get a nice tension then, just mind the back of your hands on coolant hoses etc.

The way to get correct tension is to try and twist the belt like you did but I can't remember what kind of angle you should be able to turn it to determine the correct tension.

I wouldn't run it too much like that - you really DO NOT want the belt to jump a tooth!

Cheers,

Andy

[heeman10]

You're meant to get a 90-degree rotation, which I was getting at the slackest part of the belt, so I suppose that should be ok. No idea where the noise is coming from, yet another of things I don't know if I'm just supposed to accept, "cos that's what they do", or if there's a genuine problem there.

[andyhardy]

If it's a squeak/grinding it could well be the tensioner pulley's bearings - mine went on my Focus 1.6 Zetec engine, quite a common problem according to my mate Neil who works at a Ford dealership.

Cheers,

Andy

[heeman10]

More of a flapping belt against plastic sound really! Fook knows, I'll see what the MSD crew think I suppose.

[MotorcyclesFish]

Um - I know that 90deg along longest length is correct for auxiliary belts, but is that deffo right for toothed timing belts?

Also pressurised coolant doesn't sound too good - esp. if bubbling. You might have a gasket gone...

[FezzR]

Um - I know that 90deg along longest length is correct for auxiliary belts, but is that deffo right for toothed timing belts?

Also pressurised coolant doesn't sound too good - esp. if bubbling. You might have a gasket gone...

90 deg rule only applies to aux belts as they are non vital