fiestaturbo.com

[rich_frst]

[mickylee]

are you painting the bumper yourself?

[jayrs]

well i have a spare fiesta brake bar and i got the servo and master clinder and i got a welder and can weld

so will give it a go, worse car it ends up in the bin, but ill play with it at a later time when ive got some, with the good weather im cracking on with the fez.

ill knock a guide up if needbe once ive done it

[rich_frst]

well i have a spare fiesta brake bar and i got the servo and master clinder and i got a welder and can weld

so will give it a go, worse car it ends up in the bin, but ill play with it at a later time when ive got some, with the good weather im cracking on with the fez.

ill knock a guide up if needbe once ive done it

come on then get cracking .... chop chop fella

[random_dav]

You should sheepskin the bumper IMO

[jayrs]

oh yeah ill get out there now shall i

[RS rob]

love this thread,
lots of inspiration and information!!!

[Mikee_RS]

ifi were u james i would pay for a propper paint job on the bumper. all this hardwork you are puttin in and it will look s**t with spray cans


well worth getting the pro's involved for the final touch

[RS rob]

gotta agree with mikee here!

you know you've been thinking about it for years james my boy!!

[heeman10]

mickylee - Yep, I'm painting the bumper with tins that were colour-matched at Halfords. I've got a fairly good track record when it comes to spraying with aerosol cans, so I'm fairly confident it'll turn out ok. Even if it's not great, it'll be a lot better than the state it was in before, as you can tell from the photo's!

jayrs - Go for it! Just remembered, the other minor issue I found yesterday was that the vacuum hose no longer reaches to the servo properly, so I need to extend the intial straight section of hose (as it leaves the EFi body) by about 75mm or so.

dav - Then how would I clean it with my sheep's wool mit? The static build up would be crazy!

rob - Cheers! Combine my thread with your new panels and I'd be a very happy chappy!!

Mikee - As I've said, other things I've sprayed (recent example = brake servo, later example = my motorcrosser fuel tank which I filled and sprayed) with tins have come out ok. The whole car's still in need of a respray, so the bumper will be done properly at that time

[Jay]

Looks Good!

You need a sevo pipe from and escort mk6 1.6/1.8... the one with the plastic manifold

[heeman10]

Oh they go straight on do they? I was going to take mine along to the scrappy and compare it to other stuff, but if the Zetec Escort pipes fit straight on that'll save me a lot of digging around! Thanks

[~nomad~]

looking good fella. I have the same master cylinder to go on mine, so good to have some guidence there. Did you bleed the brakes beforehand? I would have thought so, but gotta ask!

[heeman10]

Beforehand? No, not much point in bleeding before taking it all off and getting air in the system again! I've got a very big bottle of brake fluid so will flush a large volume through all four corners of the car so I have all-new fluid. The back shoes haven't been checked/changed in 40,000 miles (as far as I know - though the car had a major service at Ford once I'd had it about two years, which is 3 years ago!), and so they won't have been bled either. In other words, the same fluid will probably have been sitting in them for the last 3-5 years/40,000 miles! I'm going to go and dismantle the rear brakes now, and collect new shoes from Ford tomorrow

[~nomad~]

ah right, i presumed there would be fluid everywhere when the res came off?

[heeman10]

~nomad~ - It's not such a mess. I unbolted everything first, and just cracked the four brake pipes loose. Once all the nuts and bolts were off, I undid all the brake pipes by hand and removed it all as one nice and quickly. The car was covered in bubble wrap anyway, just in case any fluid escaped

Update

Not a pretty update, but a necessary one. I've just removed the right hand rear drum (after a bit of sweat and tears ) and found one expected piece of bad news, and one unexpected, but dreaded The shoes were down to the metal at the leading edge (with hardly any material taken off the trailing edge - oh the efficient joy or drums! ), but annoyingly, the slave cylinder was moist with brake fluid. At its last MOT, the rear brakes were close to the limit (i.e. were only just producing enough braking force), so I wasn't hugely hopeful about their condition. Time for pics anyway, as I've never been aware of people posting photo's up of the rear brakes.

The four 17mm bolts on the inner face of the rear stub axle. Needed removing with a cranked 17mm ringkey spanner:



Once these are out, it's a case of "persuading" the drum itself to part company with the hub. Haynes states that the rubber dust cover can be removed, and the auto adjusting pawl levered to help, but I found no such thing, so the hammer had to come out.



The rear drum now on the floor, revealing the shoes and cylinder:



Quick random shot of how I've mounted my oil cooler while the bumper's off:



And the leaky cylinder:



I've already ordered new shoes from Ford (£25), so I'd guess the cylinders aren't much cheaper than that each. I've decided not to waste my time doing it all again, and Scort is kindly sourcing some RS2000 rear discs so I can fit them and be done with it. It's been a long time coming, and I might as well take advantage of the fact that I have a perfectly good modern car to get around in while I disable the ZT. I still want to take it to Ten Of The Best next Sunday, but it's not the end of the world if I haven't finished it all by then, provided it's done for Ford Fair!

[~nomad~]

ah, not great about the rear brakes, but good about the forthcoming disks. That will be on the cards for mine I think, but not for a while. Think I will remove the cylinder before prepping the bay for paint, then leave it off till its all painted. Where do you actually undo the cylinder?

[heeman10]

The master cylinder/servo are held to the bulkhead via two brackets (the brackets I showed newly-painted on the previous page). The servo is secured to one end of the brackets (4 x 13mm nuts) and the other ends of the brackets have studs on which pass through four holes in the bulkhead. Climb into your footwell and you'll find a flap cut in the soundproofing up under the dash, under which there are four more 13mm nuts. The m/cyl actuator rod is held to the brake bar eye using a clevis pin and split pin. So, remove the split pin and withdraw the clevis pin (I'd recommend loosening off all eight 13mm nuts before you do all that, to give freedom of movement).

Hope that helps. It's much better going into a job when you know a bit of info about it all isn't it?

[~nomad~]

yes it is! so i dont need to remove the dash, just get up behind it. will get this done on the weekend then, as well as prepping the bay

[rich_frst]

was gonna say your motor is crying out for disks now mate good choice...


nice oil cooler placing too

[jayrs]

i hate rear wheel cylinders, 9 times out of 10 the bolts that hold them on round off

have yo ask this though mate, why did you remove the stub axle when all ya have to do is remove the main hub nut??

[BUTRE]

have yo ask this though mate, why did you remove the stub axle when all ya have to do is remove the main hub nut??

Was thinking the same!

[rich_frst]

and me come to think of it

[Jay]

and me

LOL

James, I took the pipe directly off the mk6 with plastic manifold... and then put it on the fiesta... I popped the lug in the rubber grommet and then routed the servo pipe round the bottom of the servo and then back upto the manifold.

The joins in the pipe require some twisting so they are the right way round to get it sitting properly

[heeman10]

I just opened the Haynes up and got to work! Swings and roundabouts I say...tis always good to touch some bolts I haven't had off before, to clean them up etc. It'll all be coming off anyway.

Scort went to get my RS2000 rear discs today but they'd already been pinched off the car in the scrappy I'm totally stuck now, and if I can't find anything it looks as though the ZT won't be at Ford Fair I thought I'd just have a tinker with things while I didn't really need the red one on the road, but it seems likely it won't even get there! I'm on a mad search, but I've tried finding RS2000 rears before and had very little luck.

[heeman10]

Panic sort of over - lockesRSparts Chris has come up with the goods and a set of RS2000 rears with new discs and pads will be with me before too long *phew* Good job it didn't take as long as it usually does!! Game on!

[MarkRS2K]

glad for ya mate, car should be ready for FF then?

we going for the 0-60?

[heeman10]

I'll do my best to get it ready, yeah! Got a few things on the go, but fingers crossed I can get it done I might stick it down the 0-60 strip, but won't have time to get my gearbox out to check the clutch and release bearing, so it'll be the same old stupid gearshift Might as well though I suppose though, bit of fun for the crowds! I may fit the launch control and flat shift before then too, which will make for some fun sounds

[FezzR]

I'll do my best to get it ready, yeah! Got a few things on the go, but fingers crossed I can get it done I might stick it down the 0-60 strip, but won't have time to get my gearbox out to check the clutch and release bearing, so it'll be the same old stupid gearshift Might as well though I suppose though, bit of fun for the crowds! I may fit the launch control and flat shift before then too, which will make for some fun sounds

do you not flat shift already? you may find it a bit troublesome with you gear selection problems

[heeman10]

No I don't flat shift, that being one of the reasons. I don't want to use the rev limiter as often as flat-shifting would involve, so will use the proper flat-shift switch and kit to achieve it. That way, the revs are held at what ever they were when I depressed the clutch. There's no point it taking mine past around 6,000, as that's where the power starts sloping off

I picked up a Zetec Escort's servo vac pipe and valve today, and they fit just fine, thanks to Jay246 for pointing that out Turned the servo round 180 degrees and it all slotted straight in. I seem to have a bit of a notch in the brake pedal travel when the pedal's around 20% depressed, so I need to look into that. Scratched the servo today which I'm very annoyed about! It's a bit of a fiddle taking the clevis pin in and out and it fouled on a brake fitting I have more filler, so a bit of bumper work happened today - it's so boring and hard to stick with!

[FezzR]

obviously every engine different especially modified, and with an engine like yours you wouldnt want to push it more than needed/possible, BUT

from my own personal findings [having tried manual and electronic flat shifting on many different engines/cars] you have to set the rpm limit above your ideal gear change rpm, the quite obvious reason for this is that a loaded engine will rev lower than the unladen one. but im sure you realise this (wasnt clear in your post)

The triest thing i find is when doing it manually backing of the throttle just enough to keep the revs up but backing off enough to not spin the wheels on release of the throttle. fun practicing though

Edit: forgot to mention, id be interested to see some data logging of just how long a time period is spent on the limiter when flatshifting properly

Is there any flat shifting devices that allow gear specific rpm?

[MarkRS2K]

whats this flat shifting all about then? with the launch control how will this make it sound different? porbably being thick

[FezzR]

whats this flat shifting all about then? with the launch control how will this make it sound different? porbably being thick

manual flat shifting involves keeping foot at full or near full (as i partly said above) throttle when changing gear, you have to be very quick and slick pulling out of gear without touching the clutch then just as your about to engauge you stamp on the clutch pedal and release straight away. effect is engine disengauged from box for much less time.

electronic does the same but rather than rely on you normal rev limit you set your own lower limit that is achived when you hit the clutch pedal,

launch control is another personalised limiter to bring the car to an ideal launching rpm. but it usually causes pops and bang. (not to the noise level or anti-lag but tend to be a little noiser than manually holding an rpm)

[garyhurn77]

good news about the rs2000 rears mate lets hope everything turns up in time for you to get the car to ford fair

[MarkRS2K]

ok, cheers for the explanation mate