Newbies Guide: Fitting Boot Blue Light
84 posts • Page 1 of 3 • 1, 2, 3
Newbies Guide: Fitting Boot Blue Light
Okay, starting from now I am going to call my guides "Guide for Newbies" as it seems more suitable and to better reflect my skills >__< See, I am humble!
Like many other cheaper Ford cars, there is only one tacky light in my boot, which looks very dull and most importantly, not bright enough for general usage. So I was going to fit one more light, but then I thought... as I am doing it anyway, why not change it to blue merely for the wow factor. And no, since I am doing it to my boot (with practicality) not the footwell or dash, it is not considered "Max Power youth" style. And totally legal too.
Most people would probably go for neons. But for people familiar with computer modding, it is generally accepted that cold cathode lights are better than neon lights because 1. less heat 2. less electricity 3. smaller size 4. not neccessary to pay the motor factor rip-off price. Seriously, most motor factors in the UK charge stupid prices, especially Halfords.
Anyway, I bought the "4inch Blue Dual Cold Cathode Kit" (code: DUALCATH4/BLUE) on eBuyer for a mere 2.42GBP ex VAT!!! Comparing to the motor factors that charge at least 12.00GBP for a single 4inch neon tube! The dual 12inch kit (code: DUALCATH/BL) was also considered, as the 12inch kit is better value for money at 2.97GBP ex VAT, but I was worried about the lack of space.
This is what I got. The kit consists of:
1. Two cold cathode tubes
2. Inverter (these lights use AC current)
3. Switch
4. Molex connectors
Comparing to neon tubes, cold cathode tubes are quite fragile. A plastic (probably acrylic) tube was there to protect the tube, but care still needs to be taken.
To connect the cold cathode tubes to the car, I chopped off the molex connectors, and used two crimp bullet connectors, one for 12v (yellow) and one for earth (black). The kit was apparently tested using my PC before commencing modding
This boot light is going to be redundant. So I removed fuse before doing anything, then twisted the bulb out and chopped wire and used two female crimp bullet connectors for the 12v live and the earth. Then, yes, just connect the bullet connectors, use the supplied sticky pads to stick the tubes to somewhere hidden, and cable tie everything making sure nothing moves when I am driving, stopping, going around corners, etc.
Before lights on...
Voila!! There you go.
An added bonus is that, because there is a switch, I can turn it off when I open the boot but do not really need the light.
Hope it helps.
Like many other cheaper Ford cars, there is only one tacky light in my boot, which looks very dull and most importantly, not bright enough for general usage. So I was going to fit one more light, but then I thought... as I am doing it anyway, why not change it to blue merely for the wow factor. And no, since I am doing it to my boot (with practicality) not the footwell or dash, it is not considered "Max Power youth" style. And totally legal too.
Most people would probably go for neons. But for people familiar with computer modding, it is generally accepted that cold cathode lights are better than neon lights because 1. less heat 2. less electricity 3. smaller size 4. not neccessary to pay the motor factor rip-off price. Seriously, most motor factors in the UK charge stupid prices, especially Halfords.
Anyway, I bought the "4inch Blue Dual Cold Cathode Kit" (code: DUALCATH4/BLUE) on eBuyer for a mere 2.42GBP ex VAT!!! Comparing to the motor factors that charge at least 12.00GBP for a single 4inch neon tube! The dual 12inch kit (code: DUALCATH/BL) was also considered, as the 12inch kit is better value for money at 2.97GBP ex VAT, but I was worried about the lack of space.
This is what I got. The kit consists of:
1. Two cold cathode tubes
2. Inverter (these lights use AC current)
3. Switch
4. Molex connectors
Comparing to neon tubes, cold cathode tubes are quite fragile. A plastic (probably acrylic) tube was there to protect the tube, but care still needs to be taken.
To connect the cold cathode tubes to the car, I chopped off the molex connectors, and used two crimp bullet connectors, one for 12v (yellow) and one for earth (black). The kit was apparently tested using my PC before commencing modding
This boot light is going to be redundant. So I removed fuse before doing anything, then twisted the bulb out and chopped wire and used two female crimp bullet connectors for the 12v live and the earth. Then, yes, just connect the bullet connectors, use the supplied sticky pads to stick the tubes to somewhere hidden, and cable tie everything making sure nothing moves when I am driving, stopping, going around corners, etc.
Before lights on...
Voila!! There you go.
An added bonus is that, because there is a switch, I can turn it off when I open the boot but do not really need the light.
Hope it helps.
- wywywywy
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I got some of those form ebuyer, for like £3! gonna put two in the boot and maybe two in the foot wells.
- JamieFRST
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Car: 1991 Ford Fiesta RS Turbo
Not my sort of thing normally, but I'm quite impressed...
Think I'll buy a couple and if I don't like them in my boot I'll stick them in my case, lol
Think I'll buy a couple and if I don't like them in my boot I'll stick them in my case, lol
- Smo
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Car: 1990 Ford Fiesta Popular Plus
May I recommend buying the dual 12" kit instead of the 4" one, as 12" is of better value and much brighter... if you have enough space
I especially like the fact that I have a switch in the boot >_<
Because when I clean the interior (takes about two hours to clean properly), I keep the boot open, and I don't really want the lights draining the battery.
I especially like the fact that I have a switch in the boot >_<
Because when I clean the interior (takes about two hours to clean properly), I keep the boot open, and I don't really want the lights draining the battery.
- wywywywy
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sleeky :I guess you mounted one either side under the shelf supports? If so, how long are the wires
Lee.
I actually mounted the next to the rear cluster looms, under the two nuts holding the rear bumper you know, so that when I buy food from Tesco, they would break my tubes...
- wywywywy
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Definately put them in your footwells also get the sound reactor also from ebuyer, wire them up to your cigarette lighter then with the sound box they can go on constant, flash and also with the beat of the music looks phat and takes about 20/25 mins
- arron_watson
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Just ordered a 4in set to play with, was playing with my tape measure earlier and because of the shape of the ka, theres hardly [ERRR] large enuf flat surfaces where u cud fit 12in ones, so the 4in [ERRR] be able to squeeze here there and everywhere
Arron - You got a code for the sound reactor, sounds interesting
Lee.
Arron - You got a code for the sound reactor, sounds interesting
Lee.
- sleeky
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Thats wicked mate. the other day i took my sound reactive neons out of my computer case and wired then up to my cat and they look wicked.
- Monky
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Pure_Tom :Do ya just wire them up, one wire to pos and 1 to earth? Do ya need any resistors or anything else? Are they 12V then?
That's right. Only two wires to connect - one 12v one earth, no resistors no nothing. It is really easy.
Technically they are not 12v - they are 240v A/C (IIRC). But the invertor takes care of that so you need not worry.
- wywywywy
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Monky :Thats wicked mate. the other day i took my sound reactive neons out of my computer case and wired then up to my cat and they look wicked.
hope your cat didn't mid too much. think mine would have been pissed off if i started connecting wires to it. especially when they got switched on
still need to update this sig
- ~Tony~
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just finished installing my kit in the boot, thanks to wywywywy for the top notch guide, made life very easy. well chuffed with the outcome, will post some pics later (waiting for it to get dark so i can see the full effect!!) found a excellent place to put the switch as well, very stealth lol
xander
xander
- xander7
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Update:
- There are also MULTI-COLOUR tubes
- Also EL wires for very cheap (code: EB/ELCABLE/RED) 1.50 ex VAT
- Try putting some foil behind the tubes to reflect the light. Just make sure they are stealth.
- LED spot light (code: LED/SINGLE/BLUE) for dash 0.59 ex VAT. Oh my god how much do Halfords charge? More like 7.99...
- For doing footwells, you can connect the earth wire to the door pin swith. So the light is only on when you open the doors... and light up individually!
- Do not do it to animals.
- There are also MULTI-COLOUR tubes
- Also EL wires for very cheap (code: EB/ELCABLE/RED) 1.50 ex VAT
- Try putting some foil behind the tubes to reflect the light. Just make sure they are stealth.
- LED spot light (code: LED/SINGLE/BLUE) for dash 0.59 ex VAT. Oh my god how much do Halfords charge? More like 7.99...
- For doing footwells, you can connect the earth wire to the door pin swith. So the light is only on when you open the doors... and light up individually!
- Do not do it to animals.
- wywywywy
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- Posts: 1381
- Joined: Thu Jun 19, 2003 8:23 pm
- Location: Warrington, Cheshire
Just finished fitting mine. Again, thanks for such a top guide! Everything went as planned and the original wiring in the Ka is totally untouched, so it can easily be put back to standard
They seem pretty bright atm, and thats in almost direct sunlight, but i need to wait until this evening for the full effect. I ended up mounting them under the tailgate slam panel lip in the ka, as finding a flat surface in that car is like finding a needle in a haystack.
Heres some pics of the install:
Right Hand Side Cathode - Only just fitted in the gap cos of where ford decided to put the jack, but still i squeezed it in. The inverter is then squeezed in behind the jack, and cant move at all, mite wack some sticky pads on it just incase tho!
Switch - Managed to sqeeze this in between the boot trim and the bodywork, its totally solid, and looks pretty neat too
Left Hand Cathode - Err not much to say really!
Lee.
They seem pretty bright atm, and thats in almost direct sunlight, but i need to wait until this evening for the full effect. I ended up mounting them under the tailgate slam panel lip in the ka, as finding a flat surface in that car is like finding a needle in a haystack.
Heres some pics of the install:
Right Hand Side Cathode - Only just fitted in the gap cos of where ford decided to put the jack, but still i squeezed it in. The inverter is then squeezed in behind the jack, and cant move at all, mite wack some sticky pads on it just incase tho!
Switch - Managed to sqeeze this in between the boot trim and the bodywork, its totally solid, and looks pretty neat too
Left Hand Cathode - Err not much to say really!
Lee.
- sleeky
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might as well put some pics up of mine then
And i found a neat place to put the switch. on the parcel shelf trim there is a small hole where the speaker wiring and wiring for the boot light usually come through. i took all that out, and fed that down behind the strut covers, and placed the switch in that hole, perfect size, totally stealth and hidden
aint got any night pics yet, but it adds a lovely blue glow to the install, well worth the cash IMO
xander
And i found a neat place to put the switch. on the parcel shelf trim there is a small hole where the speaker wiring and wiring for the boot light usually come through. i took all that out, and fed that down behind the strut covers, and placed the switch in that hole, perfect size, totally stealth and hidden
aint got any night pics yet, but it adds a lovely blue glow to the install, well worth the cash IMO
xander
- xander7
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- wywywywy
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- edwardcasbon
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edwardcasbon :i havent got a courtest light in my mk4 1.3 finesse. How could i connect one up?
Do you mean BOOT courtesy light?
There should always be at least one...
- wywywywy
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can sum1 jus explain where they have connected to wires to after choppin off the molex connector? do u connect it upto a battery or sumthin? lol, thanks.
EDIT: although it may be in one of the pictures above, i cant see them if they are upload onto FT.com because im behind a firewall. i can only see FT logo's, hence the reason why i am asking about the wires.
EDIT: although it may be in one of the pictures above, i cant see them if they are upload onto FT.com because im behind a firewall. i can only see FT logo's, hence the reason why i am asking about the wires.
Last edited by Sams Si on Tue Jun 15, 2004 8:40 pm, edited 1 time in total.
- Sams Si
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- wywywywy
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Re: Newbies Guide: Fitting Boot Blue Light
wywywywy :To connect the cold cathode tubes to the car, I chopped off the molex connectors, and used two crimp bullet connectors, one for 12v (yellow) and one for earth (black).
He means you have to cut the bulb-holder-connector thingy off the courtesy light and crimp/solder/chocolate-box two wires onto these.
Al
<< I need to put something here, yer? >>
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- fiftyoneCL
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sted :well can some give me the website to get my stuff plus a list of everythin i need
Please read the guide again, it is there!
- wywywywy
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84 posts • Page 1 of 3 • 1, 2, 3
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