fiestaturbo.com

[CRF]

Similar to Excursions recent post, what setup are people running with 165 plug in chips?

What boost are you running?

How is the boost set, bleed valve or on the actuator?

If on the actuator, do you need an uprated actuator?

Did you have it setup by a professional after? From what i've heard fuelling etc. needs to be set up properly after fitting due to differences in engine specs etc as obviously the superchip etc. won't be tailored to individual set ups.

If you've had a set up, out of interest how is it done, how do they alter the fuelling etc when using the standard ECU?

And finally any proven bhp and torque figures?

Cheers

Chris

[DaveRom]

I'm running this at the moment.

165 ahmed chip
Uprated actuator
Pro Alloy F/M I/C
15psi
Standard Injectors

The only problem with running 15psi on standard injectors is that you can't hold it on full throttle in 5th gear or you'll melt the engine.

I had it set up by Castle Performance when i had the Pace I/C. Changed to Pro Alloy though a few week later. It runs superbly and i find it very quick too possibly looking at 170 - 180bhp.

Dave

[Syorme]

i've just plugged mine in have no idea what boost i'm running at. how do you find out

[CRF]

Cheers Dave

Sy, get a boost gauge! Only way I know of to measure it. If youve just plugged it and havent adjusted the actuator or have a bleed valve it'll still be running standard boost won't it???







Anyone else...........

[j7aoc]

I have a 175 chip at 14 psi and hold full throttle in 5th all the time melted it yet

[CRF]

Do you have an uprated actuator mate? What make of chip is it?

Cheers

[DaveRom]

That pound of boost believe it or not makes all the difference

AndyHardy's went pop running that spec i believe!!! I think he had a chargecooler though!

Just thought of something else too. I was talking to Stu from MSD about it months ago at a passionford meeting and he told me to turn the boost back down to 13psi cos it would go bang sooner rather than later!

Its ok to run 15psi for a quick blast through the gears. 5th gear on full throttle is a no no.

You've been warned mate

Dave

[KEVFRST]

Superchips 165 chip
Standard Actuator
13psi
163bhp

conversion done by Castle approx 9years ago, covered a good 20k on the conversion with no problems whatsoever, till last year when the chip itslef developed a fault and wouldnt let the car start, not bad after all that time thou.

[Excursion]

Chris My red FRST currently has a stock cooler, a T3 convesion and Superchips 165. I'm running 12 held with 14 peaks. I gave the fuel pressure half a turn too. Plug gaps still standard (NGK's).

I don't want to go past 12psi, as even on a cool day you can feel the performance loss due to heat soak. It just dpends on how you drive though, 13 would be OK if you just overtake stuff now and then, but if you like it flat out then the stock cooler is a liability.

Syorme You won't see any benefit by installing the chip alone, you need to up the boost and possibly tweak the fuel pressure

[CRF]

Cheers Mark.

I'm currently running a GRS Evo 3 cooler, T25, ram air filter, mongoose exhaust, and cossie plugs @ 8 psi

I dont want to go as far as buying a 195 chip, beiges and uprated fuel pump as I already have a 165 superchip but want to go as far as is safely possible with what i've got.

Cheers
Chris

[Excursion]

Cheers Mark.

I'm currently running a GRS Evo 3 cooler, T25, ram air filter, mongoose exhaust, and cossie plugs @ 8 psi

I dont want to go as far as buying a 195 chip, beiges and uprated fuel pump as I already have a 165 superchip but want to go as far as is safely possible with what i've got.

Cheers
Chris

You could safely go up to 13 with a spec like that

[Richard_xr2i1800]

the 165 chips only remove the boost limit or move it up
165 chip
stage 2 turbo
-31
standard engine
15psi
pro alloy front mount ic
cossie pump
cossie filter
And it made 190bhp on the rollers but it dropped off a 5500rpm for some reason so may have made more
Used to drive it hard with no problems at all, also ran the 1/4 mile for a whole weekend with no problems

Rich

[CRF]

Sounds good to me

When people talk about having a set up after fitting is it literally someone setting up the boost and increasing the fuel pressure?

I can't see anything else that would need doing or be able to be changed, not like you can alter the fuelling the same as with a fully remappable ECU.......

Correct me if i'm wrong!

[Excursion]

Sounds good to me

When people talk about having a set up after fitting is it literally someone setting up the boost and increasing the fuel pressure?

I can't see anything else that would need doing or be able to be changed, not like you can alter the fuelling the same as with a fully remappable ECU.......

Correct me if i'm wrong!

Yep that's it! It's a rip off in most cases.

[CRF]

Cheers mate!

[Syorme]

mines reading 0.6 bar on my boost gauge. gonna get mine set up when i finaly got all my parts

[andyhardy]

Yeah but surely with a lambda sensor they can get the fuelling so that it will pass the MOT but not run lean at high rpm (talking about fuel pressure here). Or am I thinking completely wrong?

Andy

[MattL]

Mine produced 186bhp with 186lbs torque at PE, with;
standard turbo
pro aloy double capacity cooler
165 chip
HKS boost controller
full system
@ 12.5 peaking to 14psi

matt

[Fezzy Turbo]

Mine was ....

"165" Superchip
std T2
-32 actuator
Bleedvalve
std injectors
std I/C
mild Kent cam
Mongoose exhaust

running 12psi made 140bhp @ wheels, maybe more on a colder day

ran that spec for 54k+ miles

[Richard_xr2i1800]

Mine was always fine flat out in 5th gear, no pinking or anything

Rich

[OrionRst]

hi guys,

Im new to the forum, thought id join in as I am running a Fiesta Turbo engine in my Orion so will encounter similar problems to alot of you im sure.

this threads got my interest as mine was running 170BHP - print out knocking about to prove it. But this was when it was chipped and running 14psi. since then the chips got damaged and i need to get one put back on and have it set up again.

I recon with a nice big intercooler and a chip i should see around the 200bhp mark. maybe some 701's but unsure

the spec is:

New RS block with Mahle low comp pistons, balanced crank and flywheel, uprated oil pump, group A gasket set, brand new fiesta EFI RS turbo head, polished and ported, Kent fast road cam, T3 hybrid turbo, Bailey piston dump valve, Mongoose stainless exhaust with Scorpion backbox, rebuilt gearbox with uprated bearings and fast road clutch.

that sound about right to u guys? does have the -31 acculator and a bleed valve on there for the seting up though it has the dreaded fuel cut at the minute as the boost still alittle high and i have been adjusting the bleed valve the wrong way Soon get shot of the damn thing anyway


p.s. if anyone has a good chip for me and can recommend a good tuner in berkshire or the surrounding area that would be grand

[festa_boy19]

mines been remmaped and is now running 12psi on std turbo and uprated actuator. 160bhp.

[stu@mdevelopments]

Sounds good to me

When people talk about having a set up after fitting is it literally someone setting up the boost and increasing the fuel pressure?

I can't see anything else that would need doing or be able to be changed, not like you can alter the fuelling the same as with a fully remappable ECU.......

Correct me if i'm wrong!

Yep that's it! It's a rip off in most cases.

What you must remember here is that in order to check the fuelling and boost at wide open throttle, you must first ascertain the following:

All sensors work correctly.
A Cylinder Leakdown Test gives good readings.
ECU itself is in good order and not outputting ROM Failure codes.
The base idle settings are correct.
Fuel pressure is correct.
TPS position is correct.
Spark plugs are correct heatrange and gapped correctly for specification.
Breather system is functioning correctly.
The engine and pipework will maintain a constant 20+psi with no drop through silly leaks that will overspeed the turbo.
Fuel pump flow is sufficient.
Fuel pump WIRING is sufficient. (Volts mean nothing)
Cam timing is correct.
Base CO is correct, legal and the idle stability good.

Then you can go on and check the she runs the correct AFR at cruise and light throttle openings as well as on boost in 4th and 5th where it really matters. Sadly, to do this properly requires a £6K+vat Wideband fuel monitor that uses a £550+vat sensor with a lifespan of only 10 accurate hours.

Not bad IMO for £100+vat all things considered.

Example of how the small things matter most...
I recently set up a FRST that detonated really badly at 14psi on 701s and std engine... AFR was leaning out like mad at anything over 9psi. I looked at everything, fuel pump current draw, fuel flow capability, flowed the injectors, studied its maps.. eventually we had to go deeper and put an oscilloscope on the map sensor output (OFAC).. it transpired that the signal stopped dead at 9psi All it turned out to be was the vac capsule in the line to the sensor leaked at 9psi so thats all the management ever got to see....

A hose clip or even a tie wrap could have cost that chap a couple of £K there. And without the expensive equipment and knowledge to check it and fix it, no one would be any the wiser given the owner couldnt hear it detting anyway and thought it was FINE....

Be careful out there chaps

[CRF]

Thanks for the info Stu.

You've answered the biggest mystery for me, what you actually get done as part of a setup before anf after fitting.

I'll have to pop in soon for a chat, popped down when James picked his red ZT fiesta up not long since but didn't get chance to talk.

Cheers
Chris

[stu@mdevelopments]

Your Welcome Chris.

The biggest problem as always is fuelling with these cars, whilst your chip and shiny new engine may be 100% and brand new, sadly, the fuel lines, pump, pump wiring and engine management loom is at best, over 13years old.... always remember the little things that will destroy the big things.... Dont think, "the engines new and teh chips new, it will be fine" and hit the motorway. I hear the stories every day.

Fuel pressure should almost NEVER be increased by the way, and for good reason.. think "Rising Rate"

[MAD_Adamski]

Your Welcome Chris.

The biggest problem as always is fuelling with these cars, whilst your chip and shiny new engine may be 100% and brand new, sadly, the fuel lines, pump, pump wiring and engine management loom is at best, over 13years old.... always remember the little things that will destroy the big things.... Dont think, "the engines new and teh chips new, it will be fine" and hit the motorway. I hear the stories every day.

Fuel pressure should almost NEVER be increased by the way, and for good reason.. think "Rising Rate"

since you managed to make a appearance on here stu my self and dave rom were goin to order a 195 chip off you in the next month, i wanted it basically to run the car for 2weeks to bed it in then come down for a setup??? do you just remap the chip?? is it worth me buying the chip in the first place or just to bring it all down std and take it from there??
cheers Ad

[Excursion]

What you must remember here is that in order to check the fuelling and boost at wide open throttle, you must first ascertain the following:

All sensors work correctly.
A Cylinder Leakdown Test gives good readings.
ECU itself is in good order and not outputting ROM Failure codes.
The base idle settings are correct.
Fuel pressure is correct.
TPS position is correct.
Spark plugs are correct heatrange and gapped correctly for specification.
Breather system is functioning correctly.
The engine and pipework will maintain a constant 20+psi with no drop through silly leaks that will overspeed the turbo.
Fuel pump flow is sufficient.
Fuel pump WIRING is sufficient. (Volts mean nothing)
Cam timing is correct.
Base CO is correct, legal and the idle stability good.

Then you can go on and check the she runs the correct AFR at cruise and light throttle openings as well as on boost in 4th and 5th where it really matters. Sadly, to do this properly requires a £6K+vat Wideband fuel monitor that uses a £550+vat sensor with a lifespan of only 10 accurate hours.

Not bad IMO for £100+vat all things considered.

Example of how the small things matter most...
I recently set up a FRST that detonated really badly at 14psi on 701s and std engine... AFR was leaning out like mad at anything over 9psi. I looked at everything, fuel pump current draw, fuel flow capability, flowed the injectors, studied its maps.. eventually we had to go deeper and put an oscilloscope on the map sensor output (OFAC).. it transpired that the signal stopped dead at 9psi All it turned out to be was the vac capsule in the line to the sensor leaked at 9psi so thats all the management ever got to see....

A hose clip or even a tie wrap could have cost that chap a couple of £K there. And without the expensive equipment and knowledge to check it and fix it, no one would be any the wiser given the owner couldnt hear it detting anyway and thought it was FINE....

Be careful out there chaps

Yeah that's fair enough, but how many places actually do any of that? Hence 'in most cases'

[heeman10]

Hi Stu, please can you give me a piece of technical info?























Which one are you?

[Jur]

Running:

- std engine (1.6) just 4k miles after full recon
- Kent CVH35 (with adjustable pully, but at 'standard' position)
- T3 (standard) ERST S2 turbo
- -31 Actuator
- @ 10psi (still no setup done)
- standard injectors
- Cossie fuelpump
- 165 Superchips (0FAC) .. but soon a "AB 175BHP OFAC" (so the 165 0FAC will be for sale)
- Pace IC
- PiperX cossie filter
- FSE PBV, turned up a quarter of a turn. (should help preventing running lean @ FT)

No RR results yet )-:
Need to get the lot setup correctly
Had it running @ 14psi shortly .. it went like a Rocket.. but.. if it was safe ? i don't know.... need to get that sorted

Other 'changes'
- AP fast road clutch kit to cope with the gained power

[stu@mdevelopments]

Your Welcome Chris.

The biggest problem as always is fuelling with these cars, whilst your chip and shiny new engine may be 100% and brand new, sadly, the fuel lines, pump, pump wiring and engine management loom is at best, over 13years old.... always remember the little things that will destroy the big things.... Dont think, "the engines new and teh chips new, it will be fine" and hit the motorway. I hear the stories every day.

Fuel pressure should almost NEVER be increased by the way, and for good reason.. think "Rising Rate"

since you managed to make a appearance on here stu my self and dave rom were goin to order a 195 chip off you in the next month, i wanted it basically to run the car for 2weeks to bed it in then come down for a setup??? do you just remap the chip?? is it worth me buying the chip in the first place or just to bring it all down std and take it from there??
cheers Ad

Sorry about delay, i dont seem to be getting e-mails from here.
No problem with you fitting a 195 conversion with 701s and a decent fuel pump and then getting her run in and coming across for a setupo, but conversely, you could let us do it. Doing the labour yourself will obviously save you a few pounds in labour as long as your confident

[stu@mdevelopments]

James,
Front row, 4th in from the left, stood next to Petrucci

[heeman10]

James,
Front row, 4th in from the left, stood next to Petrucci

Incorrect!

[MAD_Adamski]

Your Welcome Chris.

The biggest problem as always is fuelling with these cars, whilst your chip and shiny new engine may be 100% and brand new, sadly, the fuel lines, pump, pump wiring and engine management loom is at best, over 13years old.... always remember the little things that will destroy the big things.... Dont think, "the engines new and teh chips new, it will be fine" and hit the motorway. I hear the stories every day.

Fuel pressure should almost NEVER be increased by the way, and for good reason.. think "Rising Rate"

since you managed to make a appearance on here stu my self and dave rom were goin to order a 195 chip off you in the next month, i wanted it basically to run the car for 2weeks to bed it in then come down for a setup??? do you just remap the chip?? is it worth me buying the chip in the first place or just to bring it all down std and take it from there??
cheers Ad

Sorry about delay, i dont seem to be getting e-mails from here.
No problem with you fitting a 195 conversion with 701s and a decent fuel pump and then getting her run in and coming across for a setupo, but conversely, you could let us do it. Doing the labour yourself will obviously save you a few pounds in labour as long as your confident

thanks stu well i have a fuel cell and am running a sapphire cos pump with braided lines, so everything will be easy for me to do i have the injectors ready on too.. i think dave and i shall give you a call in a few weeks and order the chips and take it from there, as my engine is being out together as we speak, then when its running book in and pop and get it setup thanks for the response i'm aware your busy

Ad

[OrionRst]

FAO Stu,

Im having grief with some tuners over my cars management at the moment, OFAC. Infact Karl at NMS didnt want to touch it as he finds OFAC/OFAB to temperamental and frustrating. Is this something you would agree with?

I have also been warned away from pushing it much further than a chip and tune up as they dont respond well to the larger injectors and still underfuel at the top end. Again would you agree with this, especially given the spec I listed above?

If not, how much would you charge to carryout the fitting of some 701's, reflashing a chip to next phase and supplying and fitting a bigger I/C? As this is somthing i am considering having done in the new year and want to start budgetting for it I am happy to travel the distance from Newbury, Berks to have to it all set up properly by yourself

Has anyone else found this when enquiring about work at tuners, as i always believed the fiesta rst engine was one of the most tunable

[285Andy]

std engine bar a piper 285 mild cam
collins stg1 chip
standard injectors
t3-31actuator-13psi
slightly bigger i/c

i just plugged it in and used the actuator to adjust boost pressure.
i did used to get a slight bit of pinking at high revs after a while like this but have since changed to a better flowing fuel pump and now it doesnt.
none of this means my car is set up right though. the only things i can check is idle CO, base idle speed, charge system air leaks and cam timing. i supose got half a chance though end of the day, its a cvh. its done 108,000 miles and it goes like a trooper and i wont really be that dissapointed if it pops
god only knows how much bhp it has. i dont really worry about it