[GUIDE] Fitting Mk4 Dash Clocks(Speedo)
38 posts • Page 1 of 2 • 1, 2
[GUIDE] Fitting Mk4 Dash Clocks(Speedo)
Ever wanted to change your dials to something a little different?
Well I did, so I decided to try and fit the mk4 dials after I read Al's (Project/DJStalker)
very good guide, but I decided to fit the black versions of the dials as you don't see them
very often and because they only cost me a fiver!
So in this guide I will show you how to wire them up to a non air bagged Mk3
and a Air bagged MK3 and 3.5 using a homemade adaptor so you do not have
to cut the original wiring loom in your car.
this guide also shows you how to wire up the door ajar warning light .
I will also show you how to fit and wire up a low washer fluid sensor and the mk4 low fuel indicator in a later guide
Tools Needed:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Soldering iron and stand,
Solder,
Helping hand or crocodile clips.
Screwdrivers
Dremal and bits
Insulation tape
Hot melt glue gun
Copper Clad board (http://www.Maplin.co.uk)
PCB socket and plug (http://www.Maplin.co.uk)
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Firstly you will need to get hold of a set of mk4 clocks out of a higher spec like Ghia if possible,
as they will have all the wires. You can get one from a scrap yard or Ebay, your call. From a scrap yard you will need to remove the trim around them, this is done by undoing
the 2 screws in the dials aperture and one under a cover at the side of the centre vents.
Once out, simply undo the 4 screws holding the cluster to the dash and pull out.
Disconnect the Speedo cable then Cut the loom as far back as you can to give you plenty of wire to play with.
Below are the new mk4 dials that will be fitted into a mk3 dash, notice the two connectors, one white and one blue.
The mk4 clocks are basically the same as the mk3 versions therefore do not require much altering to fit.
Set too and remove your original clocks. 2 screws under the cowl and 4 around the cluster.
Pull out and disconnect the Speedo cable and the wiring multiplug.
Making the PCB,
Get some copper clad board, and simply push it into the socket connector in the car
while the ignition is off and it will scratch the surface of the copper,
take the board out of the connector and mark in between the scratches.
Mark 1cm from the edge of the board and mark it.
Cut the board down to the 1cm line and use a hack saw blade to notch through just
the copper between the scratches, on the lines.
Use some cleaner and remove the excess pen.
Now use a 1.5mm drill bit and drill on each section of copper in line with the scratches.
This hole is for the wire from the mk4 loom.
Use the table below and connect the wires to the copper board. Strip the ends of the wires and push the exposed wires through the board
from non copper side and solder in place.
Please note that on airbag models pin 9 on the mk3 wiring is for the airbag control light,
meaning that if the mk3 is a diesel then the glow plug warning light is wired up
separate to the main plug and would require tapping into the wires and the original bulb removing.
In the middle of the board there will be dead space so drill a hole large enough
to push a tie wrap through, this will secure the board to the original wiring.
At the end of the copper board drill 2 holes for the low washer fluid wire and the other for the door ajar wire.
Directly in front of these drill more holes to allow a connector block to fit.
Through the drivers side air vent you will be able to see a wire going up the A pillar towards the roof,
within this there will be a Brown/Red wire. Take a spur from this and run it to the pin crated for
the door ajar warning light. Insulate the connection and secure the wires.
Double check the gaps between the connection copper plates to ensure no solder has bridged them.
Use some sticky backed foam or hot melt glue and insulate the back of the board. Then wrap all the wires together.
Remove your existing clocks if not done so, plug the new connector into the existing loom,
then to the back of the mk4 clocks.
Test them to make sure all the functions work this includes switching the key to
ignition where the battery and oil lights will come on and the airbag if present. Turn the key to start the car and it should move the rev counter dial a little.
If it doesn't, don't worry about it at the minute.
Flick the indicator stalk to indicate in the directions, left and right and it
should blink the light on the dash.
Pull the indicator stalk towards you and you will flash your main beam and the
blue light will illuminate.
Turn the sidelights on then the headlights and the dash should illuminate
If you have a manual choke, pull it out and the swirly line will illuminate,
this is meant for the glow plug warning light but doubles up as a choke.
If for any reason any of the above does not light up then the bulbs may be faulty, replace and try again.
Disconnect the multiplugs and the adaptor and set to one side while you modify
the dash slightly to enable the clocks to fit the hole.
You will need to cut the bottom of the dash opening a little to allow the clocks to fit,
Cut the bottom mountings off the clocks to allow them to fit into the hole.
At the side of where the mountings used to be there will be a slanted piece of plastic,
cut this off flat as in the picture. It will stop the clocks falling back through the dash.
Again the top of the clocks will need modifying to make them fit the mk3 dash. See the pictures below.
To fix the clocks in you will need to create a bracket out of metal to connect
the mounting lugs at the top to the dash, the bottom of the clocks are just wedged in and kept in by the cowl.
Re-connect the wiring adapter and tie-wrap it secure and wrap it all in insulation tape.
Screw the clocks in then replace the cowl and secure it with the screws.
You may notice that the rev counter may read half the value of the old dials, on some cars(Engine dependent.)
this is a known problem and i am trying to figure out how to fix this, so please check back for details.
And that's it for this guide, sorry if some areas are vague but I'm just learning the mk4 conversions.
Hope this guide is of some help.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Guide Written and © On 30 Nov 2005 by Andrew Whiteman (AW3K)
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
As always comments etc welcome.
Andy
Well I did, so I decided to try and fit the mk4 dials after I read Al's (Project/DJStalker)
very good guide, but I decided to fit the black versions of the dials as you don't see them
very often and because they only cost me a fiver!
So in this guide I will show you how to wire them up to a non air bagged Mk3
and a Air bagged MK3 and 3.5 using a homemade adaptor so you do not have
to cut the original wiring loom in your car.
this guide also shows you how to wire up the door ajar warning light .
I will also show you how to fit and wire up a low washer fluid sensor and the mk4 low fuel indicator in a later guide
Tools Needed:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Soldering iron and stand,
Solder,
Helping hand or crocodile clips.
Screwdrivers
Dremal and bits
Insulation tape
Hot melt glue gun
Copper Clad board (http://www.Maplin.co.uk)
PCB socket and plug (http://www.Maplin.co.uk)
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Firstly you will need to get hold of a set of mk4 clocks out of a higher spec like Ghia if possible,
as they will have all the wires. You can get one from a scrap yard or Ebay, your call. From a scrap yard you will need to remove the trim around them, this is done by undoing
the 2 screws in the dials aperture and one under a cover at the side of the centre vents.
Once out, simply undo the 4 screws holding the cluster to the dash and pull out.
Disconnect the Speedo cable then Cut the loom as far back as you can to give you plenty of wire to play with.
Below are the new mk4 dials that will be fitted into a mk3 dash, notice the two connectors, one white and one blue.
The mk4 clocks are basically the same as the mk3 versions therefore do not require much altering to fit.
Set too and remove your original clocks. 2 screws under the cowl and 4 around the cluster.
Pull out and disconnect the Speedo cable and the wiring multiplug.
Making the PCB,
Get some copper clad board, and simply push it into the socket connector in the car
while the ignition is off and it will scratch the surface of the copper,
take the board out of the connector and mark in between the scratches.
Mark 1cm from the edge of the board and mark it.
Cut the board down to the 1cm line and use a hack saw blade to notch through just
the copper between the scratches, on the lines.
Use some cleaner and remove the excess pen.
Now use a 1.5mm drill bit and drill on each section of copper in line with the scratches.
This hole is for the wire from the mk4 loom.
Use the table below and connect the wires to the copper board. Strip the ends of the wires and push the exposed wires through the board
from non copper side and solder in place.
Please note that on airbag models pin 9 on the mk3 wiring is for the airbag control light,
meaning that if the mk3 is a diesel then the glow plug warning light is wired up
separate to the main plug and would require tapping into the wires and the original bulb removing.
In the middle of the board there will be dead space so drill a hole large enough
to push a tie wrap through, this will secure the board to the original wiring.
At the end of the copper board drill 2 holes for the low washer fluid wire and the other for the door ajar wire.
Directly in front of these drill more holes to allow a connector block to fit.
Through the drivers side air vent you will be able to see a wire going up the A pillar towards the roof,
within this there will be a Brown/Red wire. Take a spur from this and run it to the pin crated for
the door ajar warning light. Insulate the connection and secure the wires.
Double check the gaps between the connection copper plates to ensure no solder has bridged them.
Use some sticky backed foam or hot melt glue and insulate the back of the board. Then wrap all the wires together.
Remove your existing clocks if not done so, plug the new connector into the existing loom,
then to the back of the mk4 clocks.
Test them to make sure all the functions work this includes switching the key to
ignition where the battery and oil lights will come on and the airbag if present. Turn the key to start the car and it should move the rev counter dial a little.
If it doesn't, don't worry about it at the minute.
Flick the indicator stalk to indicate in the directions, left and right and it
should blink the light on the dash.
Pull the indicator stalk towards you and you will flash your main beam and the
blue light will illuminate.
Turn the sidelights on then the headlights and the dash should illuminate
If you have a manual choke, pull it out and the swirly line will illuminate,
this is meant for the glow plug warning light but doubles up as a choke.
If for any reason any of the above does not light up then the bulbs may be faulty, replace and try again.
Disconnect the multiplugs and the adaptor and set to one side while you modify
the dash slightly to enable the clocks to fit the hole.
You will need to cut the bottom of the dash opening a little to allow the clocks to fit,
Cut the bottom mountings off the clocks to allow them to fit into the hole.
At the side of where the mountings used to be there will be a slanted piece of plastic,
cut this off flat as in the picture. It will stop the clocks falling back through the dash.
Again the top of the clocks will need modifying to make them fit the mk3 dash. See the pictures below.
To fix the clocks in you will need to create a bracket out of metal to connect
the mounting lugs at the top to the dash, the bottom of the clocks are just wedged in and kept in by the cowl.
Re-connect the wiring adapter and tie-wrap it secure and wrap it all in insulation tape.
Screw the clocks in then replace the cowl and secure it with the screws.
You may notice that the rev counter may read half the value of the old dials, on some cars(Engine dependent.)
this is a known problem and i am trying to figure out how to fix this, so please check back for details.
And that's it for this guide, sorry if some areas are vague but I'm just learning the mk4 conversions.
Hope this guide is of some help.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Guide Written and © On 30 Nov 2005 by Andrew Whiteman (AW3K)
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
As always comments etc welcome.
Andy
Last edited by AW3K on Sun Feb 26, 2006 12:45 am, edited 1 time in total.
- AW3K
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- j7aoc
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- Max M4X WW
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Bloody good work chap (Y)
I wondered whether the pre-striped PCB board might work - I dismissed using the plain copper board because I thought it would be a pain in the arse to put all those grooves into the board, so good work for your patience!
Oooh, p.s. girls from North CA are great fun
I wondered whether the pre-striped PCB board might work - I dismissed using the plain copper board because I thought it would be a pain in the arse to put all those grooves into the board, so good work for your patience!
Oooh, p.s. girls from North CA are great fun
<< I need to put something here, yer? >>
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Great guide again mate keep it up
Lower than a snakes bollox
Each day I break my own personal record for the number of consecutive days I've stayed alive
Each day I break my own personal record for the number of consecutive days I've stayed alive
- Big Walker
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What engines?
What engines will the rev counter be affected?
Will zetec engines be okay?
Will zetec engines be okay?
- scottc786
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Project do you approve then thanks for the inspration
thank you for all your coments,
i think its only on the HCS and CVH EFI that it reads wrong.
ill have a mess to see if i can sort it out.
Thanks
Andy
thank you for all your coments,
i think its only on the HCS and CVH EFI that it reads wrong.
ill have a mess to see if i can sort it out.
Thanks
Andy
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- Max M4X WW
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Car: 2014 BMW M135i
Would anyone know if the 1997 mk4 Fiesta Encore (endura e multi-point 1.3 efi) takes the higher spec clocks as a simple plug in replacement (like the ones shown here with the rev counter but with the nice white faces......or with a little more work, go mad huh, the zetec ones with the white faces and the little lcd display)?
Thanks.
Thanks.
- gixxerman
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Thanks
Cheers for that.
I have got my new clocks and am ready to go........just one thing, the speedo cable.
The Haynes manual talks about removing it from the car but surely that isn't needed?
Is there a knack to disconnection and reconnection?
Anyone?
I have got my new clocks and am ready to go........just one thing, the speedo cable.
The Haynes manual talks about removing it from the car but surely that isn't needed?
Is there a knack to disconnection and reconnection?
Anyone?
- gixxerman
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Re: Thanks
gixxerman :Cheers for that.
I have got my new clocks and am ready to go........just one thing, the speedo cable.
The Haynes manual talks about removing it from the car but surely that isn't needed?
Is there a knack to disconnection and reconnection?
Anyone?
If you have small hands you can do it from behind the clocks, , grab hold of the white end bit and press the clip in with your thumb and pull, this should release the cable from the dials
Andy
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Thanks AW3K
One last thing.......
I'm sure I've read somewhere on the boards that you want the fuel tank to be either full or empty so that when you switch on with the new guages they read right, that doesn't sound right to me but I thought I'd ask, is that a myth or is there any truth behind it?
Thanks once again for all the help and advice.
I'm sure I've read somewhere on the boards that you want the fuel tank to be either full or empty so that when you switch on with the new guages they read right, that doesn't sound right to me but I thought I'd ask, is that a myth or is there any truth behind it?
Thanks once again for all the help and advice.
- gixxerman
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Re: Thanks AW3K
gixxerman :One last thing.......
I'm sure I've read somewhere on the boards that you want the fuel tank to be either full or empty so that when you switch on with the new guages they read right, that doesn't sound right to me but I thought I'd ask, is that a myth or is there any truth behind it?
Thanks once again for all the help and advice.
the Mk4 clocks dont need to be swapped as they are analog, its the mk5 ones need to be swapped as they are digital.
thats the next guide lol.
Hope that helps
Andy
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looking to do this this weekend, any idea if there's a mk4 set of clocks that will give a true reading for a 1.1hcs
i'm betting there is'nt
i'm betting there is'nt
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What about making some of these and selling them to peeps on here? I'd have one!
With the mk5 dials, is it just the petrol that doesnt work, and does it read backwards, or not at all?
White mk4 dials, are they common? Shold I stay clear of the digital ones if they have the same petrol problem as the mk5?
With the mk5 dials, is it just the petrol that doesnt work, and does it read backwards, or not at all?
White mk4 dials, are they common? Shold I stay clear of the digital ones if they have the same petrol problem as the mk5?
Just because I keep talking about definetly doing it doesn't mean I'm actualy going to do it.
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lucasdemoley :What about making some of these and selling them to peeps on here? I'd have one!
With the mk5 dials, is it just the petrol that doesnt work, and does it read backwards, or not at all?
White mk4 dials, are they common? Shold I stay clear of the digital ones if they have the same petrol problem as the mk5?
So far i have made 2 , one for knuckles and one for max, if you want one i could make them.
i have been looking into pcb production so maybe they will be available soon
the mk5 ones do read wrong but also require alot more wiring, as the mk5 plug is a lot bigger and has more wires. and connecting to the speed sensor and other things
mk4 whites are quite comon yeah, thats why i did the black.
Cheers
Andy
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How much would it cost for one? I would wire it up muself, but this looks easier! WOuld it basicly be the open door signal that I would have to connect up then i.e as far as ataching wires to the dials?
cheers
cheers
Just because I keep talking about definetly doing it doesn't mean I'm actualy going to do it.
- lucasdemoley
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lucasdemoley :How much would it cost for one?
Make him a offer like i did
The guide makes it look easy but trust me seeing the adapter in the flesh makes you realise how much time and effort has gone into it.
~nomad~ :Good god I love Clark.
- knuckles
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knuckles :lucasdemoley :How much would it cost for one?
Make him a offer like i did
The guide makes it look easy but trust me seeing the adapter in the flesh makes you realise how much time and effort has gone into it.
i cant even remember how much you gave me?
thanks for the comment mate i take pride in my work lol
Andy
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how much would you want to make me one of these mk3-mk4 adapters as i fancy some nice white mk4 dials
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Argg!!! Wish i'd had one of these off you now! I went about cutting the wires to connect them, only to realise after that there are 2 sets of 2 wires that are the same colur on the mk3 side!
Just because I keep talking about definetly doing it doesn't mean I'm actualy going to do it.
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i think i charged £15 last time, but that doesnt include the postage back to you , and i would need the wires from the back of the clocks.
thats why i made them, so i didn't have to cut the wires
Andy
thats why i made them, so i didn't have to cut the wires
Andy
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for the rev counter fix.
1.6 si coming soon
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for the rev counter fix.
the wire in the middle is the normal green one and the outer ones are green with a different coloured trace up them. that is looking into the back of the plug as its connected to the edis module
the wire in the middle is the normal green one and the outer ones are green with a different coloured trace up them. that is looking into the back of the plug as its connected to the edis module
1.6 si coming soon
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Re: [GUIDE] Fitting Mk4 Dash Clocks(Speedo)
anyone got a clue how to make the fuel gauage right ??? im thinking of fitting a mk4 sender in mine but not sure if its possible ?
- GAZZAROO
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Re: [GUIDE] Fitting Mk4 Dash Clocks(Speedo)
nice guide but be better if someone updated the pics for us who like to look at the pictures first :) :)
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Re: [GUIDE] Fitting Mk4 Dash Clocks(Speedo)
So using this guide and some black mk4 dials on my mk3.5 RS turbo what problems would I have?
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Re: [GUIDE] Fitting Mk4 Dash Clocks(Speedo)
Hi there.. I need some help.. I have fitted mk4 dials into my fiesta Rs turbo.. everything works fine inc my fuel and temp sensors. I have one problem.. When i connect the main speedo cable back in to the dials it clicks in.. but as I am driving every 15 or 20mins the speedo stops working so i dont know what speed im going at!! i have to keep pulling the dials out of the dash and messing around with the cable and then put it back in and it doesnt sometimes work straight away!!
Guys what could this be as there was nothing wrong with this when i had my mk3 dials in. i threw them away now lol :P .
also bearing in mind i have a mk4 zetec dash in my car.. will upload pics soon..
if you can help me guys will appreciate it alot...
thanks
DIPS RS
:)
Guys what could this be as there was nothing wrong with this when i had my mk3 dials in. i threw them away now lol :P .
also bearing in mind i have a mk4 zetec dash in my car.. will upload pics soon..
if you can help me guys will appreciate it alot...
thanks
DIPS RS
:)
- dips7758
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Re: [GUIDE] Fitting Mk4 Dash Clocks(Speedo)
hi
for some reason the pictures dont work once you edit the post.
the speedo problem could be a stethed cable or even if its been pulled out on the gearbox end.
the end on the clocks does it click in fully and stay clicked in?
Andy
for some reason the pictures dont work once you edit the post.
the speedo problem could be a stethed cable or even if its been pulled out on the gearbox end.
the end on the clocks does it click in fully and stay clicked in?
Andy
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Re: [GUIDE] Fitting Mk4 Dash Clocks(Speedo)
Hi Andy..thanks for the reply. The speedo cable is properly fitted to the gearbox as when i had my mk3 dials in i had no issue. what it is iv put in a mk4 dash in my car and when i connect the speedo cable to the bak of the dials it clicks in i can hear it. theres enough space at the back of the dials but i have to really push the dials in for it to stay in place. could that be the reason Andy as the cable is struggling to work? as the cable is is sort of wedged in..
thanks Andy..
Dips
thanks Andy..
Dips
- dips7758
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Re: [GUIDE] Fitting Mk4 Dash Clocks(Speedo)
I'm really intrested in putting some black mk4 dials in my mk3.5 with RS turbo engine, I would like to do it this way but: I can't see the pics do have no idea which wires to connect :( , 2 Will the fuel gauge work properly or read backwards or will it be ok and 3 if my rev counter does read half way or wrong what can I do about it?
Hope to hear from you
Russ
Hope to hear from you
Russ
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