fiestaturbo.com

[bcracknell]

Ok here it is, hope it makes sense....

Why do I want to do this?

To be honest...I'm not sure, personally I'm building a track car and want as little clutter and crap in the engine bay as possible. Also the pulse air injectors have something to do with emmsions and probably economy, something I'm not to worried about as the car is to be used on track.

Some people say theres a performance gain but I'm not convinced but for a total of £4.70 and about 30mins work you can't go wrong really.


What do I need?

Spanners/sockets/toolkit
4 x 6732263 - Copper washers (see pic below)
4 x 1008597 - Blanking Plugs (see pic below)





What do I need to do?

ok you need to start by removing the MAF sensor and inlet/crossover pipe so your engine now looks a bit like this (only less blurry and probably cleaner!)



Once thats removed you also need to remove the fan, you can do this by removing the 10mm bolt from the top mounting. It's easier to get out if you unclip the starter motor wiring and fan wiring from it first so it doesn't catch on the water piping nearby.

Next remove the manifold heat shield, first undo the 2 8mm bolts holding the metal water pipe in place and then theres only 4 bolts - 2 into the head and 2 into the manifold to get the heatsheild off. You can now see what we're trying to remove:



Then it's just a case of getting a 19mm spanner and undoing the pipes 1 by 1....if your car is anything like mine then they are probably a bit difficult to remove so I decided to get a 19mm 6 sided socket on them. The pipes are very thin and cut easily...as you can see:



To remove the pulse air piping follow the 2 metal pipes down towards the starter and you'll see a big black box bolted to the block infront of the crank position sensor. Remove the 2 10mm bolts and unplug the vacum hose then carefully remove the whole assemby making sure you don;t damage the radiator.

This is what we've removed...you can see the pipes that go inside the mainfold here:



This is it all removed:



now all you need to do is get the 4 washers and blanking plugs and an 8mm allen key and screw them into the holes in the maifold.
Also, remember that vacum hose you unplugged? All you need to do is follow it back to the solonoid on the bulk head and cut the pipe short, then all I did was block it off with a bolt...If anyone has a better suggestion then please let me know.

And in true Haynes manual fashion......re-fitting is the reverse of removal!

[jdfiesta]

excellent guide, was considering doing this to mine, any faults with it yet?
oh and...
you need a stainless water rail, click link in my sig
JJ

[Percy!]

Will be doing this myself soon.

I think there may be a slight power gain as there will be less restriction in the exhaust manifold.

[PaulC]

All you need to do is follow it back to the solonoid on the bulk head and cut the pipe short, then all I did was block it off with a bolt...If anyone has a better suggestion then please let me know.

From that solenoid I have about half an inch of pipe and I put a bolt in it, works fine and has passed MOT fine The EGR I believe is just to get the engine and cat up to temperature quicker so it makes no difference once the engine is warm. This is the only thing I could come up with as unplgging the solenoid isnt an option.

[Max M4X WW]

Cool. Will be usefull if i 2.0 mine.

The plugs look like plastic though

If you change to an aftermarket exhaust manifold, do they have mounting holes for the water rail and heatsheild?

[bcracknell]

Cool. Will be usefull if i 2.0 mine.

The plugs look like plastic though

If you change to an aftermarket exhaust manifold, do they have mounting holes for the water rail and heatsheild?

I think the plugs are painted ally, or mild steel. I guess the paint will probably burn off over time but I doubt that matters.

The heat sheild has 2 bolts into the head and 2 bolts into the manifold, the water pipe bolts onto the heat sheild. You'd still be able to use the 2 bolts into the head if you change the manifold so I should think that would be enought o hold it in place.

[bcracknell]

excellent guide, was considering doing this to mine, any faults with it yet?
oh and...
you need a stainless water rail, click link in my sig
JJ

Cheere mate,

No faults as yet, starts fine and runs axactly as before. Can't really comment on any power gains as I havn't used the car much as it's a track car.

The water rail is fine for now, it's not actually as coroded as it looks....besides the engine will be a 2.0l very soon

[Ollybee]

as unplgging the solenoid isnt an option.

Why is that then?

4 x 6732263 - Copper washers (see pic below)
4 x 1008597 - Blanking Plugs (see pic below)

And which company would understand these codes? Ford?

[Ollybee]

as unplgging the solenoid isnt an option.

Why is that then?

4 x 6732263 - Copper washers (see pic below)
4 x 1008597 - Blanking Plugs (see pic below)

And which company would understand these codes? Ford?

So can anybody answer these two questions please?

[Max M4X WW]

Ford!

[PaulC]

as unplgging the solenoid isnt an option.

Why is that then?

I had mine unplugged and it literally drank fuel

[Ollybee]

Mine doesn't seem overly thirsty. I'm getting about 250 miles to a tank on an 1800. How significant was your increase in economy. I have just left the pipes off. Could you tell me which pipe you plug into the solenoid and which spur off the solenoid you have blocked up. Many thanks.

[javablu]

TBH 2 people I know have them done to their 2L and they say no difference, only an exhaust note.. but they have full systems probably adding to that

Still, good mod

[PaulC]

I'm getting about 300 miles to a tank mate, so not much different.

It was very thirsty, cant really explain but used alot more than it should have. The solenoid is still plugged into the ECU, the pipe to the manifold is still there, just the pipe that went to the pulse air is blocked off.

My guess would be the ECU was still using it for some kind of measurement? All I know is plugging it back in fixed it!

[Max M4X WW]

I personally like removing as much as i can, Makes things a bit simpler lol.

Anyone care to explain to me what this carbon canister thing in my drivers side wing is?

[LiamMc]

I'd like to know what the carbon cannister thingy is aswell. No point putting it back if its not needed.

[PaulC]

Not 100% fully sure on the workings but I believe its relating to fuel vapours and emmisions. Sure somebody else will know tho

[sailorbob]

The carbon canister is to temporarily store the fuel vapours from the fuel tank (to avoid them going into the atmosphere). When the right engine conditions are met the ecu allows them to be vented into the inlet manifold and burnt off.

[Max M4X WW]

Sounds like a timebomb

[PaulC]

You learn something new everyday So now I know why its called a purge solenoid!

[Captain Tightpants]

It's interesting, I've never noticed this post before now. I did remove my EGR system, albeit a different way.

The EGR reduces pumping loss by reducing manifold vacuum. It does, however, lower NOx by reducing the concentration of O2 in the cylinder. In essence, it lowers the oxygen content of the air by some 10-15%. This added 'inert' gas absorbs the energy from burning the fuel and oxygen, releasing it on the expansion stroke. It would be equivalent to raising the nitrogen content of air from 78 or 79% up to around 82 or 85%. The more dilute oxygen tends to lower the combustion chamber temperature.

Steve

[FezzR]

It's interesting, I've never noticed this post before now. I did remove my EGR system, albeit a different way.

The EGR reduces pumping loss by reducing manifold vacuum. It does, however, lower NOx by reducing the concentration of O2 in the cylinder. In essence, it lowers the oxygen content of the air by some 10-15%. This added 'inert' gas absorbs the energy from burning the fuel and oxygen, releasing it on the expansion stroke. It would be equivalent to raising the nitrogen content of air from 78 or 79% up to around 82 or 85%. The more dilute oxygen tends to lower the combustion chamber temperature.

Steve

as well as usually filling the inlet with carbon deposits and manufactures like to fire the egr at the back of the throttle body causing running problems, also raises inlet temps

[sailorbob]

Mmm, this thread seems to getting all mixed up, secondary air injection, EGR and canister purge all together.

A point to bear in mind when getting rid of the secondary air injection is that the air pump is used at times other than start up, especially at WOT when richer AF ratios are being used. This is in order to protect the cat and reduce emissions. Also because the standard manifiold flows pretty abysmally the minor restriction offered by the tubes projecting into the line of the gas is minimal.

[Ollybee]

Mmm, this thread seems to getting all mixed up, secondary air injection, EGR and canister purge all together.

Aye!

[Ollybee]

Good guide. Got my parts from Ford and it was about a fifteen minute job. Has anybody whos has done this noticed any difference? I haven't!

[Luke_Si]

I have done it sounds nicer now :) but no power.

[javablu]

Lovely old job.. My system didn't pop before.. now when it comes down it pops so definately more air going through.. irons out a few flat spots too.. revs harder through 3-4

[javablu]

Went for a spin in mine last night was going about 30 and one of the baxtered popped out!

Fixed it, went out again, and the same thing again another one popped out

I lost that one so gonna have to get some more from ford

Getting then welded in this time.. bloody things.

[Max M4X WW]

I thought they screwed in?

[javablu]

They do, they were tightened right up and they popped out.

[Ollybee]

That's weird!

[javablu]

JB auto weld on the case and job done pops like a gooden again

[luke89]

going to do mine now dosent look to hard and hope it sounds better than it dose now lol good guide

edit : done mine sounds much better havnt driven it as i have no cluch, removed the heat shild also looks a bit better now

[jdfiesta]

Just rang my local ford parts. 97p each for blanking plugs, 11p each for washers. bank breaking. they're special order parts though
JJ

[FezzR]

http://www.google.co.uk/search?q=EGR


oh look there is some that describe how EGR works that difficult aint it