fiestaturbo.com

[M Brian]

who said it was easy? own up?

it wasn't straight forward to me. easy in principle, annoying in practice.

Just incase anyones interested.... as i haven't seen much advice on how to do it other than saying the holes are there already....


i'll just run through some of the issues i had when fitting mine so people have can refer to it before they do it.

sourcing parts.....

ford part numbers and prices (not inc VAT)



bracket 1009005 £1.04 --------- 4 off - 3
brass bolt 6087620 £0.22p ----- 4 off - 10
o ring 6005228 £0.43p ------ 6 off - 8
domed nut 6975249 £2.28 ----- 6 off - 7
rivetnuts captives 1591502 £0.32p ------- 4 off (get spares though) - 13
outer cover metal 6044246 £1.02 ---- 6 off - 11
inner cover plastic 6087621 £0.34 ----- 4 off - 12
rh glass 6739244 £31.54 ------ 1 off - 1*not on drawing
lh glass 6739245 £31.54 --------- 1 off - 1
opening hinge handle 6699750 £8.98 ------- 2 off - 4
door seal 6985874 £25.33 -------- 1 off - no number
door seal 6985875 £25.33 --------- 1 off - no number
plastic dimpled washers 6078514 -------- 6 off - 9* see note
then also some m4 x 14 pins - 6
also pins and washers for rear hinges 5

that little lot somes up to £190 with VAT etc - so source what bits you can 2nd hand.

first off.

remove seatbelts, on my car these were held in with a torx pin (T50). i hadn't came across these before so had to get the tool.

remove covers from B and C pillars. just taking out the pins from the rear speaker units is enough to get the C pillar ones out of the way.

I also found it necesary to move cover the one under the window by the rear seats - to give access to the sills and also the lower part of the window seal.

All the holes are already there for fitting the brackets etc.

but you need to insert the captive nut (rivnuts) into the holes in the B pillar - easy if you have a gun for doing them nightmare if not!

how i did it.

see diagram: - a bit tricky - ensure the thread is clean and it will screw all the way through easy enough, (this is why you grind it off after holding with mole grips) - get a few spare captives as somethimes they don't pull cleanly and you may aswell abort it.





so with the captive nuts in you're ready to rock and roll!

now remove the windows - (you could of done this earlier but with no nuts inplace you could be stuck with no glass in and no transport to get spares)

i found the best place to start was nearest the roof on the B pillar - roll out the seal here and with assistant push it out and chase the seal round till it can be pulled forward and out of the rear bit of seal.

window out - clean up all edges and then fit new opening windows seals (not actually new ones up to you, you know what i mean)

make a note of where the little pin hole drain is in the seal - it is reccommended to fit this at the bottom or it will rain in on your seats!! (don't ask )

with the brackets etc on the windows all pretty good prepared (though dont put on any of the cappings yet).

insert the rear window hinge and loosely fix in. this fits inside the pillar. then line up the front brackets and start pins off. you may find it necessary to undo the brackets from the windows to get them to line up at first then put back on. when all the hinges and everything is screwed up and lined up.

I removed the domed nuts from the outside of the window - attached the metal cappings - by means of hitting them on with a hammer (this cannot really be done on the car as risk of breakage) then reput the domed nuts on and re tighten. repeat this all round.

cut out square on C pillar out of the plastic for the hinge opening (the fronts are done already and there is a mark in the plastic where to cut on the C pillar)


ala haynes - refit interior fittings as a reverse to the removal process....

- now wash your car and clean it out as you will undoubtably put muck handprints all over the glass!

then when dried, sit back have a coffee and admire the new look and operation!

[Project]

A very comprehensive guide - 9/10

I used aluminium rivets instead of fitting the captive nuts.

I've gotta move this to the Styling forum now

Al

[M Brian]

sniff.... relegated to a forum no one will ever see again... sniff

[festasi]

i looked.....very useful.....but i cnt afford the bits at ford prices...anyone sellin any 2nd hand fort not

[Tom SX]

wow thats a really good guide!

shocking comprehensive and even including diagrams.

u deserve a gold *.

will be using this hopefully in a few months

[M Brian]

edited with a bit more help.

hope thats completely clear to everyone.

just trying to do my bit!

[TomFiesta]

If project gives it 9 out of 10, it must be good!!

[Fiestasi-Andy]

big job then

[16VSi]

Thanks for the extensive guide, I had a good look and I was really impressed it's really detailed and easy to follow, even if doing the actual job doesn't seem quite so easy! I had also been told by someone it was quite a simple job. I think I might wait untill I've got a spare weekend before I attempt change to opening rears.

[M Brian]

if you get all the stuff ready and an assistant about 3-4hrs i reckon.


Its not that difficult - if you follow what I did.

[16VSi]

It took me about 5 hours to fit my Sparco pedals with my dad as my able assistant! To be honest even then I didn't do that much I just helped where I could, you see I have a history of breaking/damaging tools and my dad didn't want me using his cordless drill. £190 including VAT isn't that bad for Ford. I wanted some Si front arch covers and they wanted about £170 for the pair, been trying to find them second hand, but no luck. Yet!!

[M Brian]

is that the painted price?

i've got them at around £36 each.

part numbers 7013623 and 7013624 primed.


then you could get them sprayed cheaper.

might be advisable to check the price and part numbers are correct for yours though go in and get them to check?

[16VSi]

No not painted just in primer. Your price certainly sounds more realistic. I'll check the part numbers tonight and get back to you. I do remember though them telling me I needed four pieces for some reason?

[16VSi]

These are the part numbers and prices I was given by Ford:

F7013624 Wheelhouse Extension 47.65
F7013623 Wheelhouse Extension 57.86
F7013621 Wheelhouse Extension 15.74
F7013622 Wheelhouse Extension 15.74

Total Including VAT £160.96

I've no idea why I need four parts or why the first and second part are over £10 different in price. Have Ford given me the wrong part numbers?

[my_cougar49]

I can vouch for you when u say it wasnt easy. i picked mine up from a mate whose car had an argument with a tree. Any guess what the tree won!! I have already fitted these before i came across this guide and u did it exactly how i did to the letter. However it was more time consuming and frustating than u make out. It was a ball ache but i wouldnt be without them now.

[TJ]

How eay is it to remove them from a donor car then?? And what equipment would you need??

[M Brian]

i would say a few screw drivers and a pair of pliers should do you.

i bought mine new so bit different.

not too difficult id say.

maybe difficult unscrewing the actual fastners that go through the windows

but it reccomend buying new ones (see the prices above) they aint much

seals, glass, hinges are the most expensive bits


remove the inner rubber caps over the screws and they should unscrew.

you'll have to buy new rivet-nut things as these wont come out.

[TJ]

Got me set aswell now!!

Gonna fit em when it brightens up and i aint drunk on the weekend!

[metm]

Hi

I have opening rear windows on my MK3, I want to tint My rear window, and want to have the window without all part which are usefull to put it on my car.

I can easyly take off the 2 in the front , because they are screw, but the front, those that we have to touch to open the window, How do I take it off????
( I want to take off number 4- 5 - 9 // 8 - 9 - 7 - 11) in the back of the window.....)



thanks to help me

[danfezSi]

just the guide i needed. praying now 4no rain this w/e!

[M Brian]

metm - sorry havent replied didnt see your reply till today...

if you havent already doen it - you can probably doit by taking the rear hinge off the car body.. remover the C pillar trim and undo the two bolts.
then if you twist this round it may well unscrew ok.

becareful not to force it though.

glad you found it useful dan.

[The Baby Face Assassin]

have you got pics of this working?

[Mikee_RS]

piece of piss


and they havent fell out yet

[jdfiesta]

guide sounds great, shame my local ford dealer says that they aint listed for the fiesta!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! think he was talking out or his arse though. gonna go down armed with part numbers and then see what they say.
Dan, where did you get yours from?
JJ

[luke eversham]

really easy to do

[Ghost]

whats with the diagram???????/

im confused, what is an M4 nut, M5 washer and so on...........and can anybody describe it a little clearer??

[Max M4X WW]

Just found this, The captive rivet in nut thing scares me. I can get hold of a rivet gun, But i dont think this does the job as heeman had problems with it.

Any ideas?

[M Brian]

the diagram is to give you a method to use the captive nuts and fit them as per ford - without having a rivnut gun.


people often use standard rivets but its not as neat IMO.. worth the extra hour of messing about to do it with the rivet nuts I reckon.

[Max M4X WW]

Oh i see, Instead of screwing into the riveted in nut you can just rivet the braket on!

[Ghost]

Oh i see, Instead of screwing into the riveted in nut you can just rivet the braket on!

yea you can do that, if you can find a rivet big enough, i still havent found one, and mine are still held in with a dodgy set up, but i have the captive nuts and screws, but i dont understand how you are suposed to fit the nut into the hole

[Rhinopower]

ghost, i've got every different size and shapoe nut and bolt at work if you wana let me know what you want i'l 'borrow' some for you

[Ghost]

cheers mate, ill give it a measure, and see if you've got the rivet size

[heeman10]

I've only just thought to return to this thread to say what I meant to say ages ago!

The brackets are fastened to the chassis using the Ford rivnuts (rivet with an internal thread to take a screw), and so if you use a normal rivet to fasten the bracket to the B pillar, you would have to drill it out if you wanted to take the bracket off for any reason.

Rivnut/nutsert tools aren't so expensive. Mine cost me about $25, so I'd expect them to be 20 pounds or so in the UK. Do the job properly! The tool will allow you to faster the rivnut into the B pillar as originally planned, then you can screw the bracket on and adjust/remove it if necessary.

[AGAR]

Im going to be fitting mine very soon (probably within the next 3 weeks or so) - I will be prucahsing a rivet gun to fit them - what size of rivets are required?

Would someone be so kind as to post up a piccy of the rivets and what the brackets look like when they've been riveted in place so i know what im aiming for?

Also ive got new caps to cover the nuts to replace the rusted ones that are currently on - how do i remove the caps? Ive tried prising them off but do not want to scratch the glass.

[my_cougar49]

I got them off with a pair of pliers wrapped up in kitchen towel to stop the scratching the glass if I slipped. Just for safety I used masking tape around the rusted caps as well.