Guide to fitting a boot release
70 posts • Page 1 of 2 • 1, 2
Guide to fitting a boot release
Electrical connections:
1. Permanent live to one big spade connector on switch.
2. Run wire from other big spade down car to contact plate (perhaps second in from the right, but can't remember...depends which contact pin you hook the release up to)
3. Two wires on the release itself. Brown goes to earth, live connects via bullet connector on to the inside of one of the contact pins. (Now you know which contact plate to hook the switch up to - just match it with the pin above)
4. There are two small spades on the back of the switch too - these control illumination. If you find a wire which is live with the headlights on, tap into that and connect to one small spade, and earth the other small spade. Now the switch will light up green with the lights like mine!
Physical Fitting:
The plastic interior trim on the inside of the tailgate must be removed to get to the relevant panel. There are two holes, vertically aligned perhaps 6cms apart. The holes in the boot release match up to these when it's positioned on the inside face behind the holes.
The boot release works by pulling up on the latch mechanism, and so the latch needs taking out to connect the rod. This is done by undoing the two torx head bolts on the latch plate. There will already be one rod in place - the standard boot lock rod. It slots into a little white plastic clip which retains it inside the latch. There should already be a second white plastic clip in place for the boot release rod. I think I connected the latch-end of the boot release rod first, then held the latch back in place and clipped the solenoid end of the rod in place, tightening the latch back in place afterwards.
This should now be the job done! Replace the plastic interior trim and the job should be finished off. Test..and smile
1. Permanent live to one big spade connector on switch.
2. Run wire from other big spade down car to contact plate (perhaps second in from the right, but can't remember...depends which contact pin you hook the release up to)
3. Two wires on the release itself. Brown goes to earth, live connects via bullet connector on to the inside of one of the contact pins. (Now you know which contact plate to hook the switch up to - just match it with the pin above)
4. There are two small spades on the back of the switch too - these control illumination. If you find a wire which is live with the headlights on, tap into that and connect to one small spade, and earth the other small spade. Now the switch will light up green with the lights like mine!
Physical Fitting:
The plastic interior trim on the inside of the tailgate must be removed to get to the relevant panel. There are two holes, vertically aligned perhaps 6cms apart. The holes in the boot release match up to these when it's positioned on the inside face behind the holes.
The boot release works by pulling up on the latch mechanism, and so the latch needs taking out to connect the rod. This is done by undoing the two torx head bolts on the latch plate. There will already be one rod in place - the standard boot lock rod. It slots into a little white plastic clip which retains it inside the latch. There should already be a second white plastic clip in place for the boot release rod. I think I connected the latch-end of the boot release rod first, then held the latch back in place and clipped the solenoid end of the rod in place, tightening the latch back in place afterwards.
This should now be the job done! Replace the plastic interior trim and the job should be finished off. Test..and smile
- heeman10
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Maybe...it's too easy for people not to notice things, or search for previously posted topics. A guide forum wouldn't be a bad idea at all!!
- heeman10
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How would the circuit work though if it was to work like it was factory fitted? I.E It only works with the ignition off so you dont accidentaly pop the boot on the motorway And it holds the popper on for a couple of seconds after pushing the switch like it does on cars fitted with it as standard?
Drives: MK2 Fiesta 1.4 Ghia (1988) Focus 2.0 Zetec (2003)
- 8skellerns
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The problem with the standard ford boot release is the fact that it can be popped if someone smashes the window and presses the button.I've got mine wired to an ignition live,think I'd rather take my chances on the motorway
Lee
Lee
- LeeB
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Gunna have a look down the scrapper on monday for a Boot Motor and Maybe Central Locking motors as well if I can chave them then I mihgt make a manual switch in the car for boot release
If I steal the switch and contact plate/pins from another car any idea if the cabling is already run down tho9ugh the body?
If I steal the switch and contact plate/pins from another car any idea if the cabling is already run down tho9ugh the body?
- Unplugged
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No - the boot release wiring is part of the electric pack loom, which is easily unplugged from the rest of the car if you lift the right-hand sill trim and cut the zip ties holding it to the bottom of the dash
<< I need to put something here, yer? >>
- Project
- fiftyoneCL
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So if I skank the contact plate / pin.... The Loom from a car with Rear Wipe / Boot Motor and Coutesy light it should plug in under the dash and mean I shouldent have *too* much trouble when stealing the coutasy light andboot release motor I know I willhave to find somewhere to put the boot release but I might makea panel to place the button next to the rear heated window switch
I might even just run an extra cable down depends on how much work its going to involve
I might even just run an extra cable down depends on how much work its going to involve
- Unplugged
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I'd just like to remind ppl that if they carry out this modification to their car following my guide, they own me £15 in royalties
- heeman10
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ive just fitted a boot release and i did it slightly differantly.
when it came to wiring up to the power, looking in the haynes manual, the boot release was wired up to the ignition relay. this relay had 5 spades on it, the one in the centre of the relay being labled 37a
however in my fuse box the ignition relay had only 4 spade and was missing the one in the middle. to get an idea of the raly you need, look at the lighting relay wich is on the opposite side of the board (mine is blue and has a diagram on the side)
what you want to do is get anothe relay like the lighting one, or the ignition with the extra middle spade.
(there is a space for the middle spade in the relay spot)
now, rather than struggling to insert a wire properly from the underside of the fuse box, what i did was strip a wire and wrap it round the middle spade and then thinly recoat the wire with some duck tape being sure that no wire could make a connection between other spades.
now reinsert the new relay into the place for the ignition relayu and voila
(remember to dissconect the power before you do this)
now the b/r will work wen the key is not turned or turned once. once ignition is activated, it will cease to function.
when it came to wiring up to the power, looking in the haynes manual, the boot release was wired up to the ignition relay. this relay had 5 spades on it, the one in the centre of the relay being labled 37a
however in my fuse box the ignition relay had only 4 spade and was missing the one in the middle. to get an idea of the raly you need, look at the lighting relay wich is on the opposite side of the board (mine is blue and has a diagram on the side)
what you want to do is get anothe relay like the lighting one, or the ignition with the extra middle spade.
(there is a space for the middle spade in the relay spot)
now, rather than struggling to insert a wire properly from the underside of the fuse box, what i did was strip a wire and wrap it round the middle spade and then thinly recoat the wire with some duck tape being sure that no wire could make a connection between other spades.
now reinsert the new relay into the place for the ignition relayu and voila
(remember to dissconect the power before you do this)
now the b/r will work wen the key is not turned or turned once. once ignition is activated, it will cease to function.
- thesylph005
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even if it does release pn the mototrway its not as if it pops striaght up just unlatches simply pull over and fxix it, mine did it several times @ 80mph cause of dampness in thed switch it would make more sense to wire it so it ONLY works when the ignition is on as to me motorays aint a problem but getting your car broken into and boot looted is,
- HaggisTurbo
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I had a little investigation on a fiesta zetec-s at work today and found that whenever the doors are locked or the alarm is activated, the boot release switch doesnt work. I had to sit in the car and activate the alarm / lock the doors to try this out.
Drives: MK2 Fiesta 1.4 Ghia (1988) Focus 2.0 Zetec (2003)
- 8skellerns
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not trying to sound too dumb... or like an opportunist... but if i was gonny nick something from a car... wud i really be bothered if the boot popped or not? i mean if ive broken a window i can open a door... and dont all rear seats fall forwards? jus about anything that can get in the boot thru the hatch can come out thru doors? if not... ure not likely to run off down the road after stealin it without being noticed!
So i wud say... if u hav the wiring - do it normally... if not do as u fcuking please! lol
Merry Xmas!
So i wud say... if u hav the wiring - do it normally... if not do as u fcuking please! lol
Merry Xmas!
Whiteee
FOR SALE: FRST Bonnet with vents - Four Spoke S1 RS Steering Wheel
FOR SALE: FRST Bonnet with vents - Four Spoke S1 RS Steering Wheel
- whitey
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Can't remember...doesn't matter, as long as everything connects up on both sides of the same pin/contact plate it'll work
- heeman10
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Unfortunately it's almost a year since I wrote this, which means my boot release is quite at home in my tailgate now, so I won't be taking it all apart for pictures!!
- heeman10
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heeman10 :Unfortunately it's almost a year since I wrote this, which means my boot release is quite at home in my tailgate now, so I won't be taking it all apart for pictures!!
booo
the boot release isn't the problem it's the wiring..i'd probably end up blowing something up
luckily a fellow forum member said he'd lend me a hand
- Superal
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dj_mase69 :Superal :this thread needs pictures and funky diagrams
i fitted my boot release 2day but ill dis connect it all and get some pictures and diagrams up for you'll.
give me couple of days tho
nice...i bought a de-locked/de-wipered tailgate with the boot release already on so i just need to get it wired up now...
- Superal
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Its not exactly difficult from what i remember, i jus sold syorme a boot popper.
Right you have (coming from the motor) 1 red and white wire and one brown i think? thats the earth wire, the earth wire should have a ring terminal on it (syorme i think the one is missing off the one i sold you) and then the bolt screws into the boot, there should be a hole.
Red and white wire needs to go on the contact pin plate in the tailgate, cant remember which prong it goes on (will look tommorow)
Then in the shell of the car on the contact plate there will be a wire in there, again i cant remember which prong i will look tommorow.
The wire from the contact plate goes all the way to the front of the car, hide is under the boot carpet down the sides of the rear seats then under the sill covers or something, then it goes onto the switch for the boot release.
There will be 2 prong/pins on the boot release switch, one of them you wire the wire from the boot to, the other one, you take a length of wire attach it to the battery ,remove the header tank (no need to remove hoses or drain water) just one ten mm bolt and it lifts up, behind there in the corner will be a round rubber thing, it will lift up, insert this wire down there (IF YOU HAVE CONNECTED IT TO THE BATTERY MAKE SURE THERE ARE NO BARE WIRES ON THE OTHER END BECAUSE IF IT HITS THE METAL OF THE CAR SOMETHING MAY FUSE OUT) when you have pushed the wire down that ruber grommet hole it will appear ni the footwell by the accelerator pedal, all you do now is run it to the switch and put it on the other prong, boot release should now work.
tommorow i will get pictures and paint diagrams of things to go with this.
I also have all the connectors prongs and some wiring and switches for this first come first served though only got one, got a couple of xr2o style boot release switches.
YOU WILL NEED TO GET THE CONTACT PLATE AND CONTACT PIN PLATES FROM A XR2I OR RS TURBO OR ANYTHING WITH A BOOT POPPER AS STANDARD!
As i say, pics tommorow for ease of understanding! promise, be about 2pm
Right you have (coming from the motor) 1 red and white wire and one brown i think? thats the earth wire, the earth wire should have a ring terminal on it (syorme i think the one is missing off the one i sold you) and then the bolt screws into the boot, there should be a hole.
Red and white wire needs to go on the contact pin plate in the tailgate, cant remember which prong it goes on (will look tommorow)
Then in the shell of the car on the contact plate there will be a wire in there, again i cant remember which prong i will look tommorow.
The wire from the contact plate goes all the way to the front of the car, hide is under the boot carpet down the sides of the rear seats then under the sill covers or something, then it goes onto the switch for the boot release.
There will be 2 prong/pins on the boot release switch, one of them you wire the wire from the boot to, the other one, you take a length of wire attach it to the battery ,remove the header tank (no need to remove hoses or drain water) just one ten mm bolt and it lifts up, behind there in the corner will be a round rubber thing, it will lift up, insert this wire down there (IF YOU HAVE CONNECTED IT TO THE BATTERY MAKE SURE THERE ARE NO BARE WIRES ON THE OTHER END BECAUSE IF IT HITS THE METAL OF THE CAR SOMETHING MAY FUSE OUT) when you have pushed the wire down that ruber grommet hole it will appear ni the footwell by the accelerator pedal, all you do now is run it to the switch and put it on the other prong, boot release should now work.
tommorow i will get pictures and paint diagrams of things to go with this.
I also have all the connectors prongs and some wiring and switches for this first come first served though only got one, got a couple of xr2o style boot release switches.
YOU WILL NEED TO GET THE CONTACT PLATE AND CONTACT PIN PLATES FROM A XR2I OR RS TURBO OR ANYTHING WITH A BOOT POPPER AS STANDARD!
As i say, pics tommorow for ease of understanding! promise, be about 2pm
- bluefiestamk3
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70 posts • Page 1 of 2 • 1, 2
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