1.6 8v CVH - 2.0 16v Zetec Engine Conversion (new 06/04/07)
140 posts • Page 2 of 4 • 1, 2, 3, 4
need some help, ive just looked at the throttle body ive got and its a bit different the section you have to cut down to get full throttle movement on yours has that bit of metal sticking out and it seems curved too but it isnt there on mine its just a flat piece of metal any ideas if its going to make any difference? if i do still need to cut it down how much did you cut off? thanks
- Zetecfiesta
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can you take a pic mate
need to see it to fully understand
As for how much to cut off, i slipped the linkage on about 1/2 way, pulled it back so the throttle was wide open and marked the lug that needed cutting
need to see it to fully understand
As for how much to cut off, i slipped the linkage on about 1/2 way, pulled it back so the throttle was wide open and marked the lug that needed cutting
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update 16/04/05
NOW RUNNING
After cleaning the ISCV with some petrol, blocked off the nipple inlet on the back on the inlet manifold, blocked off all ports on the charcoal cannister thing, made sure i had an airtight seal with the brake resevoir vacumn hose. Fitted clamps to exhaust
I dunno which one did it (probably combination of all of them) but it started and ran - idle was shee-ite at first but after it warmed up it got better. Didnt notice the fan kick in yet. Water temp gauge on dash is working. The aftermarket Oil pressure gauge is working.
The bad news is it sounds rough as a badgers arrse, but at least its runnning for now. The Idle is a bit poo. The engine moves around too much without the front mount fitted. The K&N/MAF needs securing. The exhaust is blowing and i have a coolant leak. The rev counter isnt working.
So, still to do:
Finish and tidy all wiring
Sort out exhaust - inc sourcing and fitting the downpipe mounting brackets.
Secure MAF/K&N to slam panel/chassis
Source 2nd hand water pipe which goes across heat shield - my DIY plumbing one is pants and leaks
Fit front engine mount - need to source bracket that goes between mount and block.
Took it for a quick spin to the end of the road and back. Didnt pull as hard (this doesnt mean i thrashed it) as i expected but it seriously needs a tune (+ mapping for 2.0 fueling)
So, in summary i am chuffed but more work to be done yet.
Also noticed that even with the CVH oil filter on the 2.0 oil pump its still a bit too close - gonna look for an alternative smaller filter. I wanna fit an oil cooler so i may end up getting a filter re-location kit anyway.
Chris
After cleaning the ISCV with some petrol, blocked off the nipple inlet on the back on the inlet manifold, blocked off all ports on the charcoal cannister thing, made sure i had an airtight seal with the brake resevoir vacumn hose. Fitted clamps to exhaust
I dunno which one did it (probably combination of all of them) but it started and ran - idle was shee-ite at first but after it warmed up it got better. Didnt notice the fan kick in yet. Water temp gauge on dash is working. The aftermarket Oil pressure gauge is working.
The bad news is it sounds rough as a badgers arrse, but at least its runnning for now. The Idle is a bit poo. The engine moves around too much without the front mount fitted. The K&N/MAF needs securing. The exhaust is blowing and i have a coolant leak. The rev counter isnt working.
So, still to do:
Finish and tidy all wiring
Sort out exhaust - inc sourcing and fitting the downpipe mounting brackets.
Secure MAF/K&N to slam panel/chassis
Source 2nd hand water pipe which goes across heat shield - my DIY plumbing one is pants and leaks
Fit front engine mount - need to source bracket that goes between mount and block.
Took it for a quick spin to the end of the road and back. Didnt pull as hard (this doesnt mean i thrashed it) as i expected but it seriously needs a tune (+ mapping for 2.0 fueling)
So, in summary i am chuffed but more work to be done yet.
Also noticed that even with the CVH oil filter on the 2.0 oil pump its still a bit too close - gonna look for an alternative smaller filter. I wanna fit an oil cooler so i may end up getting a filter re-location kit anyway.
Chris
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al, no problems, i owe you more than a brew mate.
I would square you away at FITP but i'll be in belize mate
I would say i'm pretty gutted that i can't bring it down, especially as its running now but hey....
...i'll be sunbathing for 6 weeks in fcuking belize lol !
No doubt i'll be at Ford Fair or trax or something else.
I would square you away at FITP but i'll be in belize mate
I would say i'm pretty gutted that i can't bring it down, especially as its running now but hey....
...i'll be sunbathing for 6 weeks in fcuking belize lol !
No doubt i'll be at Ford Fair or trax or something else.
Last edited by Project_XR2i_Trackcar on Mon Aug 14, 2006 9:49 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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i will get a picture of that throttle body soon as, as for your water pipe problem between 35 - 40quid from lee at fusion fabrication, id seen them advertised on here so i had a chat with him today at rs central, what have you done about that gap in the gearbox? a lad i know has done the same conversion but left it open any ideas?
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Project_XR2i_Trackcar :al, no problems, i owe you more than a brew mate.
I would square you away at FITP but i'll be in belieze mate.
It's ok, I'll arrange to have your rifle filled with spuds for the next time you need it
<< I need to put something here, yer? >>
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I dont know much about oil filters but could you not use a renault 5 one as they are really slim, im sure some of the zt boys use them dont they?
Oh and im thinking about doing this exact same conversion but im a bit worried about the gearbox, is it up to the job and will the ratio's be ok?
cheers
adam
Oh and im thinking about doing this exact same conversion but im a bit worried about the gearbox, is it up to the job and will the ratio's be ok?
cheers
adam
Just you wait! Its gonna be a beast!
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yeh i've read about the renault 5 filter, the 21 is better also apparantley. I was thinking - the subaru impreza oil filter is pretty small too, and thats for a 2.0 also. Last time i went to subaru to get a new filter they gave me much smaller than usual one, i queried the matter and they said that they had changed them.
Therefore i'm gonna see if the subaru filter will fit.
Ref the gearbox, according to projects site the 8v is lower ratio'd so it should be quicker through the gears if anything. once i get out of the pitlane i normally only use 3rd and 4th anyway. If it goes then i'll let you know and try another one.
Therefore i'm gonna see if the subaru filter will fit.
Ref the gearbox, according to projects site the 8v is lower ratio'd so it should be quicker through the gears if anything. once i get out of the pitlane i normally only use 3rd and 4th anyway. If it goes then i'll let you know and try another one.
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Ive allready posted thisbut you needed some picture: need some help, ive just looked at the throttle body ive got and its a bit different the section you have to cut down to get full throttle movement on yours has that bit of metal sticking out and it seems curved too but it isnt there on mine its just a flat piece of metal any ideas if its going to make any difference? if i do still need to cut it down how much did you cut off? thanks hope the pictures help, and thanks for your help again!
as you can see it is completly flat and different shaped compared to yours hope you can help!
as you can see it is completly flat and different shaped compared to yours hope you can help!
- Zetecfiesta
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Re: update 10/4/05 - 99% complete
Project_XR2i_Trackcar :1 = 2 or 4*
2 = 3
3 = 2 or 4*
4 = 1
5 = Back to Fuse box - via fuse 20 (10A, you will need to add) then splits to join onto the black and Black&green wires which are on Pin 87 of the fuel inj module relay
6 = 7
7 = 6
8 = 5
9 = coolant temp sensor on instr cluster
* - 50/50 it will either start or it wont depending on which way round you do them
A few questions about this
does pin nine not matter if your using the temp sensor wire from the 8 valve car side of the loom?
does pin 5 just need connecting to fuse 20 on the fuse box or do you have to split it also?
pins one and three it says need to go to either 2 or 4* can you confirm exactly which?
thanks in advance
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that charcoal cannister thingy is your map sensor. it needs connecting to the hole on the back of your inlet manifold
1.6 si coming soon
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5 Door Register
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Re: update 10/4/05 - 99% complete
does pin nine not matter if your using the temp sensor wire from the 8 valve car side of the loom?
Yeh it does matter - or you wont get a temp reading on the cluster
does pin 5 just need connecting to fuse 20 on the fuse box or do you have to split it also?
as per my post - needs splitting.
pins one and three it says need to go to either 2 or 4* can you confirm exactly which?
No. pot luck. it will either start or it won't
Yeh it does matter - or you wont get a temp reading on the cluster
does pin 5 just need connecting to fuse 20 on the fuse box or do you have to split it also?
as per my post - needs splitting.
pins one and three it says need to go to either 2 or 4* can you confirm exactly which?
No. pot luck. it will either start or it won't
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just wanna say Thanks you to the crator of this thred..
my car all up n runnging now ( aprt from a few minor glitches ) and i have Studied this thred over and over.
This is a VERY good giude i used alot of infomation from it especially the throttle body bit
Thanks agian
my car all up n runnging now ( aprt from a few minor glitches ) and i have Studied this thred over and over.
This is a VERY good giude i used alot of infomation from it especially the throttle body bit
Thanks agian
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Xr2i_2.0L_16v :just wanna say Thanks you to the crator of this thred..
my car all up n runnging now ( aprt from a few minor glitches ) and i have Studied this thred over and over.
This is a VERY good giude i used alot of infomation from it especially the throttle body bit
Thanks agian
your welcome mate
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Just an update on the project.
As per my guide, i initially fitted XR2i/RS1800 management. Well, i've decided i'm not happy and it wasn't running as smoothly as i wanted.
Turns out my timing is out and i'm also now in the process of changing the management to 2 ltr using a DEEP ECU and the loom from an Si.
Once this has been done i'll update the thread accordingly.
Everything else is sorted though
Also, for your info, on the cards to be done shortly:
Oil Cooler needs to be fitted.
Dash out, car loom replaced with 1.6 si loom complete, all surplus wiring removed
Dash flocked
Fire extinguisher plumbing re-configured
Battery re-located from engine bay
As per my guide, i initially fitted XR2i/RS1800 management. Well, i've decided i'm not happy and it wasn't running as smoothly as i wanted.
Turns out my timing is out and i'm also now in the process of changing the management to 2 ltr using a DEEP ECU and the loom from an Si.
Once this has been done i'll update the thread accordingly.
Everything else is sorted though
Also, for your info, on the cards to be done shortly:
Oil Cooler needs to be fitted.
Dash out, car loom replaced with 1.6 si loom complete, all surplus wiring removed
Dash flocked
Fire extinguisher plumbing re-configured
Battery re-located from engine bay
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Yeah, as chris is in Cyprus for new year or so!
Me Philip (Chris's Brother) and my Cusion stuart, are going sort the wireing and etc for him.
My Cusion works at "Millway Vehicle Specialist" (Adversited in Fast Ford!), so useing his knowledge, me a him are going to sort it out! ready for when chris gets back to uk!
My cusion recons, its best to use the complete SI loom, and do away with the External EDIS like the SI! as he stats they are a pain in the A**! all modern cars come with EDIS inside the ECU like the Mondeo!
Me and Staurt currently have a 5dr Si Project Trackcar (as seen in my previous posts), which we are going use to help us sort chris's car!
As requested by chris, i will keep you updated the best way i can!
Me Philip (Chris's Brother) and my Cusion stuart, are going sort the wireing and etc for him.
My Cusion works at "Millway Vehicle Specialist" (Adversited in Fast Ford!), so useing his knowledge, me a him are going to sort it out! ready for when chris gets back to uk!
My cusion recons, its best to use the complete SI loom, and do away with the External EDIS like the SI! as he stats they are a pain in the A**! all modern cars come with EDIS inside the ECU like the Mondeo!
Me and Staurt currently have a 5dr Si Project Trackcar (as seen in my previous posts), which we are going use to help us sort chris's car!
As requested by chris, i will keep you updated the best way i can!
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Ok
Bit of an update again. As posted above i've got my brother on the case whilst i'm sunning it up in Cyprus . It'll save me time faffing around with wires when i get back.
Anyway, as stated the timing was out so that was sorted first, (probably the reason for running like shyte earlier) anyway this pics shows the proper tool for setting up the cams and where it goes:
The sharp eyes amongst you will notice my fire extinguisher nozzle on the left .
Right, since i've been away i sourced a complete 1.6 si loom, including the car loom as well:
The si engine loom was pretty much a straight swap, main difference is no external EDIS module. Obviously, fitting the si car loom requires the removal of all interior fittings, luckily mine have pretty much been stripped anyway so, only the dash needed to come out.
No idea how, as my biatch in uk did it , but heres the dash out and the car loom exposed, I'm not sure which one - probably the 8v one, but either way there's loads to be taken out yet (radio etc):
Before :
After :
This was before christmas so, with the festive break upon us i'm told it still looks the same now. besides, we have the PATS to deal with apparantly
More to come later.
Bit of an update again. As posted above i've got my brother on the case whilst i'm sunning it up in Cyprus . It'll save me time faffing around with wires when i get back.
Anyway, as stated the timing was out so that was sorted first, (probably the reason for running like shyte earlier) anyway this pics shows the proper tool for setting up the cams and where it goes:
The sharp eyes amongst you will notice my fire extinguisher nozzle on the left .
Right, since i've been away i sourced a complete 1.6 si loom, including the car loom as well:
The si engine loom was pretty much a straight swap, main difference is no external EDIS module. Obviously, fitting the si car loom requires the removal of all interior fittings, luckily mine have pretty much been stripped anyway so, only the dash needed to come out.
No idea how, as my biatch in uk did it , but heres the dash out and the car loom exposed, I'm not sure which one - probably the 8v one, but either way there's loads to be taken out yet (radio etc):
Before :
After :
This was before christmas so, with the festive break upon us i'm told it still looks the same now. besides, we have the PATS to deal with apparantly
More to come later.
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Loom swaps are fun
However, I'm surprised you're doing the both looms, and not just swapping the engine loom, as the EDIS (as I'm sure you know), is only part of the engine loom - or did you just want a neater, more factory-fit job?
However, I'm surprised you're doing the both looms, and not just swapping the engine loom, as the EDIS (as I'm sure you know), is only part of the engine loom - or did you just want a neater, more factory-fit job?
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well originally i had the RS1800 management with 1800 engine loom (ext EDIS) and 8v car loom.
This ran like shyte so i opted to change the management to the 1.6 si engine loom and 2.0 ECU, MAF, injectors etc.
I sourced all the parts with the intention of fitting when i return to UK however, my brother, also building a track car based on an Si offered to change it for me in my absence (part of deal included him having the RS1800 management and my the spare 1800 zetec i have for his car). At first i said no as i wanted to do it all myself but, eventually i gave in and let him crack on.
So, he started with the timing then changed the engine loom, ECU, MAF, injectors etc over. Then, rather than hard wire the newly acquired si loom into the 8v loom again he offered to source a 1.6si car loom and change that for me too, obviously i couldnt resist.
In hindsight, it's probably the optimum solution anway as:
a. the dash is out, so it'll give us a chance to remove any unecessary wiring (radio, speakers etc).
b. gives us a chance to sort out behind the dash, clear any rust etc
c. i'll have the full si loom and ultimately the optimum management for the 2.0 ltr.
I think its also made easy due to the fact that my car is well stripped of all its interior fittings and upholstry, had it of been in place still i think it would have taken more thought and effort.
This ran like shyte so i opted to change the management to the 1.6 si engine loom and 2.0 ECU, MAF, injectors etc.
I sourced all the parts with the intention of fitting when i return to UK however, my brother, also building a track car based on an Si offered to change it for me in my absence (part of deal included him having the RS1800 management and my the spare 1800 zetec i have for his car). At first i said no as i wanted to do it all myself but, eventually i gave in and let him crack on.
So, he started with the timing then changed the engine loom, ECU, MAF, injectors etc over. Then, rather than hard wire the newly acquired si loom into the 8v loom again he offered to source a 1.6si car loom and change that for me too, obviously i couldnt resist.
In hindsight, it's probably the optimum solution anway as:
a. the dash is out, so it'll give us a chance to remove any unecessary wiring (radio, speakers etc).
b. gives us a chance to sort out behind the dash, clear any rust etc
c. i'll have the full si loom and ultimately the optimum management for the 2.0 ltr.
I think its also made easy due to the fact that my car is well stripped of all its interior fittings and upholstry, had it of been in place still i think it would have taken more thought and effort.
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you're (or your brother!) are doing one hell of a job there Changing the loom over to the proper si one and 2.0 ecu should improve things no end.
Hope it all goes well for you!
Getting all the dash out like that is a sh*t thing to have to do bit it's worth it when you get to do loads of other jobs behind it that you couldn't be arsed doing before!
Hope it all goes well for you!
Getting all the dash out like that is a sh*t thing to have to do bit it's worth it when you get to do loads of other jobs behind it that you couldn't be arsed doing before!
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jimmy - too right mate. the dash removal has been made easy due to the fact that when the roll cage went in EVERYTHING was out (even windows belive it ir not), therefore the dash was already primed for a quick removal . if it had been a normal every day use car with full trim i think i wouldn't have bothered.
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Bit of an update.
As i had a short trip back to UK last month, i popped upto the workshop to see how the beast was coming on.
So, when i opened the workshop it was looking like this, rather bloody dusty too don't you think :
Still an ugly mass of wires but, instead this is the 16v si loom believe it or not .
So, armed with some insulating tape and zip ties we did a little bit of tidying up. I also took the oppotunity to remove unwanted weight (sound deadening seen above, heater vents etc etc) including going at half of the dash like a scene from 'jig-saw massacre' . Glove boxes, who needs em eh?
Fuse box still retained in its usual place 'for now', this section of dash cut out to allow for ease of fitment/removal.
So, after temporarily re-fitting the dash back in to check the speedo cluster etc i decided to take it for a quick test run up our private road. The result was awsome, this thing proper shifts now. It pulls like a train through every gear. I would highly recommend to anyone doing this conversion that you spend a little bit longer in going the whole hog with the loom, it makes the difference worth while.
Anyhow, as it sits now in my workshop until i get another trip back to tidy it all up properly.
Note: Fogs removed and sold, no need for them either and they weigh a bloody tonne . After cutting out holes in the valance behind I'm going to widen the fog light holes in the bumper and have em meshed to allow for brake cooling. Number plate bit is getting cut out too and meshed also, the oil cooler will eventually sit behind the mesh there.
As i had a short trip back to UK last month, i popped upto the workshop to see how the beast was coming on.
So, when i opened the workshop it was looking like this, rather bloody dusty too don't you think :
Still an ugly mass of wires but, instead this is the 16v si loom believe it or not .
So, armed with some insulating tape and zip ties we did a little bit of tidying up. I also took the oppotunity to remove unwanted weight (sound deadening seen above, heater vents etc etc) including going at half of the dash like a scene from 'jig-saw massacre' . Glove boxes, who needs em eh?
Fuse box still retained in its usual place 'for now', this section of dash cut out to allow for ease of fitment/removal.
So, after temporarily re-fitting the dash back in to check the speedo cluster etc i decided to take it for a quick test run up our private road. The result was awsome, this thing proper shifts now. It pulls like a train through every gear. I would highly recommend to anyone doing this conversion that you spend a little bit longer in going the whole hog with the loom, it makes the difference worth while.
Anyhow, as it sits now in my workshop until i get another trip back to tidy it all up properly.
Note: Fogs removed and sold, no need for them either and they weigh a bloody tonne . After cutting out holes in the valance behind I'm going to widen the fog light holes in the bumper and have em meshed to allow for brake cooling. Number plate bit is getting cut out too and meshed also, the oil cooler will eventually sit behind the mesh there.
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Brilliant work mate and an awsome guide! I am 98% through the exact same conversion. Might have it finished tommorrow, can i just ask what length belt you used for the altenator? Or what car it came off?
Tom
Tom
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Just had a look, don't have the part number i'm afraid.
Was £7.19 though.
Was £7.19 though.
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140 posts • Page 2 of 4 • 1, 2, 3, 4
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