Burning brake pads
15 posts • Page 1 of 1
Hey chaps hope you can give me some advice on this one.<br><br>Car is an XR2i 16v - the braking system is RS2000 all round. Pads are EBC greenstuff all round. Every single last component was new 100 miles ago - everything bedded in very gently.<br><br>The trouble is the pads are burning up, after I park the car in the garage after a run the damn things are smoking (nasty whiff and typical pinging noises) and the discs are a very very deep shade of blue. This suggests serious overheating am I correct? None of the calipers are binding/sticking.<br><br>
- Excursion
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Damn forgot to ask the question! As the pads are already "fast road" temperature range I dont particularly fancy upgrading them to the so called race version at the expense of off temp safety. <br><br>Ive never encountered this before but could this just be a symptom of new pads etc??<br><br>If not does it look like I need a further increase in braking ability?
- Excursion
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No, you`re disks will not perform aswell as before. Cossie disks, calipers etc is the normal upgrade route but I did see that bremsport have produced a caliper upgrade kit(4 pot) to fit under 15 inch wheels in fast ford a few months ago. A few people on this board have done the upgrade(cossie), and I think its in the brakes section on this board. Are your disks 260mm??<br>
- snake
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Thanks again,<br>yes the current discs are 260mm. I could fit the 283 Cosworth brakes but theese are basically just a variation of my caliper (single piston) I could go for the 4 piston Cosworth caliper I suppose. Would just 20mm make that much of a difference?<br><br>I am still baffled as to why brakes desingned to stop a 150bhp heavy car like the escort (with a 130mph top speed) can be made to overheat on a small car like a Fiesta!<br><br>BTW - What exactly happens to the structure of the metal (which results in reduced brake efficiency) after overheating?<br><br>Cheers <br><br>
- Excursion
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If you`re disks are dark blue you`ve serverly cooked them, have a good look at them to see if they have cracked, chances are they are now knackered. Normally you need to bed disks and pads in for more than 150 miles of light braking!!. If you do alot of high speed braking, and it sounds like you do then your gonna need bigger a bigger disk set-up for your style of driving. I`ve just ordered 315mm rotors, bells, Wilwood 4 pots etc, but it depends on how big your wheels are as to the size of disks you can get. 315`s fit some 16 inches.<br>(This is as long as the front brakes are not binding).<br>
- snake
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Thanks Snake,<br>Dont worry im not the insane,inconsiderate boyracer t*** type driver - we have a very flat County here with long mostly clear roads. <br><br>Obviously my brakes are not up to the job then - thats an a*** cos Ive just shelled out on refurbishing/new discs etc. I dont want to go above 15" wheels so whats the best option to go for?
- Excursion
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BTW - Snake if there are no cracks will the discs have in fact been "heat tempered" therefore resistant to overheating again?
- Excursion
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Don`t know why but after you`ve cooked them it seems they are easier to overheat again + your pads and disks would have been badly glazed over. Did you use Ford disks?? You can over heat any braking system depending on how you drive. You could try fitting air ducts on your car directed at the caliper/disk and use grooved disks, everything helps. Standard turbo brakes 240mm overheat simply doing one stop from 110 mph+. Wheel design can also restrict the airflow to the brakes. When I was racing a vectra V6 around a 1.5 mile track we had to let the brakes cool for 150 meters every lap, in winter it was o.k but in the heat of summer they just cooked strightaway and we had to keep stopping. <br>
- snake
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Hey Snake,<br> Yes they are Ford discs. Its from 120+ that seems to be doing the damage - what do you reccomend as I dont want to go above a 15" wheel. Ill get on the case with some flexible ducting and I suppose some dics with alloy bells would help too.<br><br>Can you reccomend any decent calipers?
- Excursion
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You only need alloy bells with 300mm+ and you won`t get then under 15`s. If you have to stick to 15 inch alloys I would go for the bremsport kit with grooved discs+extra ducting. It might be worth posting a message on the RS bullitin board for Mike Rainbird, thats who sorting out the kit for me. You can get Wilwood 4 pot kits to go under 15 inchers(i think). Or mail him on mike@rjpipe.demon.co.uk
- snake
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Shame about the alloy bells that would have helped cooling a lot. So you definately cannot get them for 285mm discs?<br><br>Ok thanks for the contact Ill give hima try
- Excursion
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I had a RS2k mk5,<br>after some heavy braking, 30 miles of braking down from 130+ to 80 when racing on the highway (at night).<br>Then I moved over, and stopped for about 10 minutes to talk, and noticed my brakes where seriously smoking and smelly.<br>I took of again and they still worked fine.<br><br>But they already where on 2000 miles or something. Standard brembo replacement disks + pads.
- Joris
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The problem sounds definately like a siezed calper - does it happen on one or both sides ?<br><br>Try jumping on the brakes to see if it frees up - best thing to do is pump out the caliper and give it a clean with a wire brush and push it back in again<br><br>Hope this helps<br><br>Mike.
- Mike Gurney
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Ok Ill try it but my setup is giving the exact same symptoms as Joris's car and at the similar sort of speed.<br><br>Ill give the brakesa few hard sharp applications - I might strip them down again just to make sure.<br><br>Thanks chaps
- Excursion
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