fiestaturbo.com

[darkhorse]

after reading up a bit more...
It seems if I just connect the battery wire up, the alternator will self excite and should work just fine... (and alt light is onto D+)
So, back into battle I will go tomorrow avo when I get time and see if that sorts it! Getting ever nearer to having a new loom done for the car..

ps/ Im in Sheffield! anyone handy who lives nearby? labour and beer swaps?!

[darkhorse]

Well, got a new nightmare now...
The clutch slave gave in so I had to replace it. The fluid reservoir is cunningly located under the dash... meaning I had to mess about with bits of loom to get it out. Anyway, job done so I thought.

I have fitted the new alternator. Wired it up how I thought it should be. The battery large power lead to the + terminal and the alt light to the B+.

Went to start the car....turns over but nothing else.

I've checked under the dash for any connectors I may have disturbed. Checked all fuses on the car. I cant find anything.
Im 99% sure the fuel pump powers up on the ignition stage 1. But because the cars been off road a bit I cant be sure. It isn't making any noise, and has no power on ignition when I tested between its terminals.

I cant see how the alternator swap could have anything to do with the problem? Seeing as the car should start but the battery would just go flat??
anyone got any ideas! thanks

[AW0L]

I have fitted the new alternator. Wired it up how I thought it should be. The battery large power lead to the + terminal and the alt light to the B+.

you have the wires on the wrong way...

battery to B+ and lamp wire to D+

[darkhorse]

Sorry my bad. Battery positive is to B+ (the larger nut)

W terminal is ignition light
but i have tried it on D+ and W and it made sod all difference

I don't want to refit the old alternator just to find it makes no difference!! I cant see how it possibly will?

[darkhorse]

how can I test the fuel pump relay? if I can find it.. lol??

[AW0L]

W is wrap phase not sure what its for but its not for the charge light, stick that back to D+

when you turn ign on do you hear the fuel pump prime?

have a try at the inertia switch on the passengerside kick plate, there is a hole so you can get your finger in there and see if the button is up, push it down if it is and try again

[andymac]

W is wrap phase not sure what its for but its not for the charge light, stick that back to D+

Some VWs take the rev counter output from the W terminal.

[darkhorse]

W is wrap phase not sure what its for but its not for the charge light, stick that back to D+

when you turn ign on do you hear the fuel pump prime?

have a try at the inertia switch on the passengerside kick plate, there is a hole so you can get your finger in there and see if the button is up, push it down if it is and try again

Cheers mate.
Ok I will put it back to D+. Neither seems to make any difference at the minute! probably because the damn thing wont run!
No, the fuel pump is not priming.... I have found there is power to the inertia switch and there seems to be power to one side of the relay (its a 60 amp relay. not sure if its the right one TBO?).
The problem I've got is because it's a kit car its all custom wiring. Ford based but the relays etc are all in random places under the bonnet and it's a fair bit of time getting my head round it!
I have tested for power across the fuel pump terminals and there is sweet fa

Regards the intertia switch. I did mess about pressing the red button before I realised what it was!!(during the other work I had the car off road for. The car worked fine when I parked it up..)
is there a way to get it to trigger other than wacking it? the button is definately at the bottom.

this is doing my nut in

[AW0L]

i would get a replacement switch, but for testing purpose, unplug it and bridge the terminals with same gauge wire to see if power gets to the pump, if it does and still doesn't work i would seek a new pump

[darkhorse]

Cheers mate.
Ive got a bit of an update... The guy who wired this car up has done it badly, at best!
For a start I tested the new alternator, with an assistant helping out. The Battery + has 12volts at all times, the D+ has 10.1 volts at all times??? ignition on or off

Im not sure what this means except to say it cant be right!!!

I have tested the pump, and it is getting 0v even when the ignition is switched on. I will go and get some guage wire and try bridging the inertia switch and see if that helps....

Will report back., thanks again for the input. Feel like Im on my own with this nightmare

[AW0L]

B+ has 12volts at all times, the D+ has 10.1 volts at all times??? ignition on or off

Im not sure what this means except to say it cant be right!!!

that would be right on the 12v side as its connected to the battery live terminal, dont know about the 10.1v side of it though...

if you get the pump to prime after testing it by using the bridge method, i have a switch spare if you want it

[darkhorse]

cheers AWOL.
appreciate the offer. I might have got the 10.1 v reading wrong and in fact its when the ignition is on. Still a bit dubious but it worked before...
My investigations are leading me to the ECU being at fault (Pectel T2)
But I am going to change the crank position sensor and see if that helps...

[AW0L]

keep us posted mate

[darkhorse]

Holy thread revival!!
Bit of an update lads. apart from the fact I am still having to fix stuff on the car, I've also learnt a lot about it and sorted a lot. the original alt was dickie, so I fitted a replacement one. Battery still died after a few days. found he had taken fuel pump relay feed from perm live and not sw live. So sorted that. then the car wouldn't start, turned over but no fire..! Much head scratching later , I found the pectel ecu was dead... gutted. So sorted that. Now the alternator pulley worked loose...!! as I drove it the other day so I need another alt. it was second hand but 'never' used and was in mint nick. think the bolt wasn't right from day one lol. Anyone know a source for Lucas alternators? I don't really want a pattern one cheers