Clutch Pedal Modification and Brake Pedal Bush Replacement
25 posts • Page 1 of 1
Clutch Pedal Modification and Brake Pedal Bush Replacement
For anyone that wants to do this or needs to here goes.
Parts you will need
Adjustable clutch pedal 1029012 £10.78
Quadrant 1029013 £7.23
Parts you want if you're renewing everything else
Brake & Clutch Pedal bushes 7021871 37p each
Brake Pedal Switch 6089985 £5.34
Brake Pedal Switch Retainer 6089984 38p
Main Shaft End Clips 1583756 28p each.
Rubber Pedal Pads 6168375 £1.79 each
Main Shaft 7065813 £5.05
Clutch Pedal Spacer 1654168 42p
Brake Pedal Spacer/Spring 6598313 £1.05
I've removed the pedal box from the car so this should make it easier to explain.
First pic shows the box dismantled
Starting from left
Clutch pedal bracket, pedal bush, old self adjusting pedal, pedal bush, clutch pedal spacer, main pedal shaft, brake pedal spacer, brake pedal, devious clip, pedal box, brake light switch and bush, accelerator pedal and clip.
At this point if you want to renew the bushes you can. They're not expensive and come in at 37p each.
To start rebuilding the box i put the accelerator pedal back on first, easiest bit.
The pedal slides onto the shaft and is then held on by the small clip.
I then fitted the new bushes into the brake pedal
They simply push into either side of the pedal.
Next pic shows the clip that is used to securely attach the main shaft to the brake pedal side of the box. I find these to be a pain to remove.
To build the pedal box back up the main shaft needs to be pushed through from the clutch pedal side, then through the brake pedal spacer, through the brake pedal and finally through the othe end of the box as shown below. A thin film of grease should be applied to the shaft before reassembly.
This will leave the groove on the main shaft, showing just to the right of the brake pedal.
The clip is then inserted into the groove to lock the main shaft into position from the brake pedal end.
.
So for renewing brake pedal bushes its as easy as that. You could also renew the main shaft if you wished and the pedal spacer. I haven't bothered as yet as the new bushes have tightened the pedal up a lot compared to what it was like before. There is now only slight side to side movement. A new shaft and spacer may eliminate it altogether however.
Anyway, carrying on, to carry out the clutch pedal modification you will need the two items below
Escort Manual Adjusting Pedal and Larger Quadrant
These are recommended by AP so that you avoid the problem James is having when fitting their uprated clutches.
The first thing that has to be modified is the quadrant.
AP Racing state that you should count ten teeth up from the bottom of the quadrant then cut along the line of the bottom sector with a hacksaw. I did this then used a sander to get it perfectly flat.
Here's what it looks like when its been modified
Next pic shows the piece removed
I then fitted a new rubber to the clutch pedal and new bushes. Its just the same as fitment to the brake pedal and the bushes are exactly the same. Pics below anyhow
The next modification is placing an M8 lockable nut onto the adjusting rod on the clutch pedal. The nut has to be screwed on back to front. This is so the pedal adjuster does not slip on the modified quadrant.
First pic shows the front of the pedal adjuster.
Top view showing reverse fitment of M8 nut on pedal adjuster.
Finally the rear view of the pedal adjuster and nut
AP Racings info on the above can be found here
http://www.apracing.com/roadcar/clutch/epmods.htm
To fit the new clutch pedal and quadrant to the pedal box/main shaft the blue clutch pedal spacer must be slid onto the shaft
Once on, the clutch pedal and quadrant are then fitted onto the shaft, making sure the quadrant is sat the right way up as shown
This then allows fitment of the clutch pedal bracket to be fitted onto the main shaft and the pedal box.
Two 13mm nuts secure the bracket to the pedal box
This pic shows the bracket attached to the pedal box more clearly
The rear view shows the tube part of the bracket that the clutch cable attaches to.
The final bit that needs to be done is the fitment of one of these clips to the main shaft (clutch pedal end)
It sits on the shaft here
Finally complete rebuilt pedal box with new pedal shaft and pedal spacers.
Side to side movement in the brake pedal has now been eliminated.
Thats it all done
HTH anyone else wanting to carry the mod
Parts you will need
Adjustable clutch pedal 1029012 £10.78
Quadrant 1029013 £7.23
Parts you want if you're renewing everything else
Brake & Clutch Pedal bushes 7021871 37p each
Brake Pedal Switch 6089985 £5.34
Brake Pedal Switch Retainer 6089984 38p
Main Shaft End Clips 1583756 28p each.
Rubber Pedal Pads 6168375 £1.79 each
Main Shaft 7065813 £5.05
Clutch Pedal Spacer 1654168 42p
Brake Pedal Spacer/Spring 6598313 £1.05
I've removed the pedal box from the car so this should make it easier to explain.
First pic shows the box dismantled
Starting from left
Clutch pedal bracket, pedal bush, old self adjusting pedal, pedal bush, clutch pedal spacer, main pedal shaft, brake pedal spacer, brake pedal, devious clip, pedal box, brake light switch and bush, accelerator pedal and clip.
At this point if you want to renew the bushes you can. They're not expensive and come in at 37p each.
To start rebuilding the box i put the accelerator pedal back on first, easiest bit.
The pedal slides onto the shaft and is then held on by the small clip.
I then fitted the new bushes into the brake pedal
They simply push into either side of the pedal.
Next pic shows the clip that is used to securely attach the main shaft to the brake pedal side of the box. I find these to be a pain to remove.
To build the pedal box back up the main shaft needs to be pushed through from the clutch pedal side, then through the brake pedal spacer, through the brake pedal and finally through the othe end of the box as shown below. A thin film of grease should be applied to the shaft before reassembly.
This will leave the groove on the main shaft, showing just to the right of the brake pedal.
The clip is then inserted into the groove to lock the main shaft into position from the brake pedal end.
.
So for renewing brake pedal bushes its as easy as that. You could also renew the main shaft if you wished and the pedal spacer. I haven't bothered as yet as the new bushes have tightened the pedal up a lot compared to what it was like before. There is now only slight side to side movement. A new shaft and spacer may eliminate it altogether however.
Anyway, carrying on, to carry out the clutch pedal modification you will need the two items below
Escort Manual Adjusting Pedal and Larger Quadrant
These are recommended by AP so that you avoid the problem James is having when fitting their uprated clutches.
The first thing that has to be modified is the quadrant.
AP Racing state that you should count ten teeth up from the bottom of the quadrant then cut along the line of the bottom sector with a hacksaw. I did this then used a sander to get it perfectly flat.
Here's what it looks like when its been modified
Next pic shows the piece removed
I then fitted a new rubber to the clutch pedal and new bushes. Its just the same as fitment to the brake pedal and the bushes are exactly the same. Pics below anyhow
The next modification is placing an M8 lockable nut onto the adjusting rod on the clutch pedal. The nut has to be screwed on back to front. This is so the pedal adjuster does not slip on the modified quadrant.
First pic shows the front of the pedal adjuster.
Top view showing reverse fitment of M8 nut on pedal adjuster.
Finally the rear view of the pedal adjuster and nut
AP Racings info on the above can be found here
http://www.apracing.com/roadcar/clutch/epmods.htm
To fit the new clutch pedal and quadrant to the pedal box/main shaft the blue clutch pedal spacer must be slid onto the shaft
Once on, the clutch pedal and quadrant are then fitted onto the shaft, making sure the quadrant is sat the right way up as shown
This then allows fitment of the clutch pedal bracket to be fitted onto the main shaft and the pedal box.
Two 13mm nuts secure the bracket to the pedal box
This pic shows the bracket attached to the pedal box more clearly
The rear view shows the tube part of the bracket that the clutch cable attaches to.
The final bit that needs to be done is the fitment of one of these clips to the main shaft (clutch pedal end)
It sits on the shaft here
Finally complete rebuilt pedal box with new pedal shaft and pedal spacers.
Side to side movement in the brake pedal has now been eliminated.
Thats it all done
HTH anyone else wanting to carry the mod
Last edited by DaveRom on Tue Jan 10, 2006 7:51 pm, edited 10 times in total.
- DaveRom
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Re: Clutch Pedal Modification and Brake Pedal Bush Replaceme
DaveRom :Unfortunately, being simple i've not yet done this and need to go get one.
Good work mate.
- Excursion
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Car: 1990 Ford Fiesta XR2i
Andy - You may do whatever you wish with it pal. I'll put all the finis codes on for the bits and prices too.
Mark - Its taken me bloody ages to get back. I thought i'd get my mate a tft monitor cable while i was out. No where has one. Barnsley is poo. My clutch kit didn't have the nut in either.
At least i got my nut, 20p woo hoo! I've also been gay and ordered a new shaft and pedal spacers.
Dave
Mark - Its taken me bloody ages to get back. I thought i'd get my mate a tft monitor cable while i was out. No where has one. Barnsley is poo. My clutch kit didn't have the nut in either.
At least i got my nut, 20p woo hoo! I've also been gay and ordered a new shaft and pedal spacers.
Dave
- DaveRom
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DaveRom :Mark - Its taken me bloody ages to get back. I thought i'd get my mate a tft monitor cable while i was out. No where has one. Barnsley is poo. My clutch kit didn't have the nut in either.
Was busy here too, I've been in a closed-down mental asylum taking pictures today.
- Excursion
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Car: 1990 Ford Fiesta XR2i
Excursion :Was busy here too, I've been in a closed-down mental asylum taking pictures today.
Be sure to give me a link to those, I found the last ones SiT linked fascinating
Dave - Great guide, good on you for taking millions of pics! It doesn't look or so quite as bad as people have made out, I'm sure it's a fiddle with the dash in though. Sounds as though the bushes and spacer/shaft will have it all feeling brand new again - perfect for your car
- heeman10
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- Your car: Audi TT TDI Quattro S line
so that everything you need on that list?
so if i went to ford, ordered all of that, i could do the same on mine?
whats it got to do with ap racing may i ask? do they tell you to modify the pedal
so if i went to ford, ordered all of that, i could do the same on mine?
whats it got to do with ap racing may i ask? do they tell you to modify the pedal
No longer a FRST owner, or even a Fiesta owner
- ianFRST
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If you be patient chap i've just the main shaft code/price and pedal spacer code/price to post up with a few more pics.
Yeh its relatively easy Ian, even you could do it
AP Racing recommend you do the mod when fitting one of their clutches. There's a link on the guide somewhere to AP Racing. Clicky that and it tells you about it.
If you get stuck (which i doubt) give me a shout.
Yeh its relatively easy Ian, even you could do it
AP Racing recommend you do the mod when fitting one of their clutches. There's a link on the guide somewhere to AP Racing. Clicky that and it tells you about it.
If you get stuck (which i doubt) give me a shout.
- DaveRom
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- Your car: BMW E85 Z4 3.0i SE
Ian - My "problem" is that the bite point is very low with the AP 4 paddle. I'm not sure why this is, I don't know if the high pressure fingers break off a couple of teeth from the ratchet or what As a result, I don't get 100% release from the flywheel, it drags the tiiiiniest amount I think, which is what slows down my gearchanges, and hence my 0-60 sprint times (best is a 7.06, though I haven't tried hitting 60 in second on the limiter yet, the 7.06 was using third gear). I'm sure you can appreciate that a slow gearshift adds time in itself, plus it's that bit more time for the turbo to stall too, so it really kills a sprint.
I've remedied it a bit by moving the clutch cable nose to the second position on the gearbox, which puts the cable at a tighter angle, and so lengthens the distance between the cable nose and the gearbox lever arm. Not so healthy for the cable, but it raises the biting point. If you remember I completely rebuilt my gearbox linkage with new parts at a cost of over £125, trying to resolve the slow shifts, as CTS said their 'boxes are known to be very fast shifters, but it had no effect. If this clutch pedal mod (as Dave says, recommended by AP on their site) doesn't cure it and give me super slick shifts, I will send the 'box down to CTS. My car has never slipped through its gears quickly, with the D, TDI or this engine, so it's a bit disappointing. If sending the gearbox away doesn't fix it I'll Quikshift it.
I've remedied it a bit by moving the clutch cable nose to the second position on the gearbox, which puts the cable at a tighter angle, and so lengthens the distance between the cable nose and the gearbox lever arm. Not so healthy for the cable, but it raises the biting point. If you remember I completely rebuilt my gearbox linkage with new parts at a cost of over £125, trying to resolve the slow shifts, as CTS said their 'boxes are known to be very fast shifters, but it had no effect. If this clutch pedal mod (as Dave says, recommended by AP on their site) doesn't cure it and give me super slick shifts, I will send the 'box down to CTS. My car has never slipped through its gears quickly, with the D, TDI or this engine, so it's a bit disappointing. If sending the gearbox away doesn't fix it I'll Quikshift it.
- heeman10
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yeah, i thought mk3.5 fiesta already had this manual adjustment on the clutch pedal? or is yours just before the mk3.5? i dunno
come on daveski, pu tthe rest of the part numbers up
come on daveski, pu tthe rest of the part numbers up
No longer a FRST owner, or even a Fiesta owner
- ianFRST
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- heeman10
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- Your car: Audi TT TDI Quattro S line
ianFRST :yeah, i thought mk3.5 fiesta already had this manual adjustment on the clutch pedal? or is yours just before the mk3.5? i dunno
come on daveski, pu tthe rest of the part numbers up
It was changed January '95 I think, although my car is after this and still has bloody auto adjust!
My pedal is too highhhhhhhhhhhh!!
Nice thread btw
- mike_wall15
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Car: 2002 BMW M3
Just to let you know the prices from Fraud have gone up for these parts which I ordered:
Adjustable clutch pedal 1029012 £10.78 to £11.05 + VAT
Quadrant 1029013 £7.23 to £7.43 + VAT
Brake & Clutch Pedal bushes 7021871 37p each to 39p each + VAT
so now is
£23.55 inc VAT (includes x4 Bushes).
Ta
Dave
Adjustable clutch pedal 1029012 £10.78 to £11.05 + VAT
Quadrant 1029013 £7.23 to £7.43 + VAT
Brake & Clutch Pedal bushes 7021871 37p each to 39p each + VAT
so now is
£23.55 inc VAT (includes x4 Bushes).
Ta
Dave
Area 6 355bhp monster!
- CarismaDave
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CarismaDave and DaveRom - Is 1029012 definitely the adjustable pedal for the Fiesta now? The pic of the clutch pedal above is an Escort pedal, which gave Dave problems, as it kicks out to the left, quite different to the Fiesta pedal, and I wouldn't want other people referring to this thread and making the same mistake! AP's guide is for the Escort, NOT the Fiesta.
I've fitted mine now, and can confirm that the act of removing the clutch pedal, fitting the new one with its quadrant and re-fitting the clutch cable can easily be done in under two hours Dash in place, pedal box left in the car, tis allllll good
EDIT: Just checked the AP site and yes, the FINIS code posted by the two boys above is incorrect. I'll try to get the correct code so people can be ordering the right pedal. Do not order the Escort pedal!!!
I've fitted mine now, and can confirm that the act of removing the clutch pedal, fitting the new one with its quadrant and re-fitting the clutch cable can easily be done in under two hours Dash in place, pedal box left in the car, tis allllll good
EDIT: Just checked the AP site and yes, the FINIS code posted by the two boys above is incorrect. I'll try to get the correct code so people can be ordering the right pedal. Do not order the Escort pedal!!!
- heeman10
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How does the new pedal behave?
Also, I had a problem the other day, where the clutch pedal moved fine but didn't effect the clutch.
The garage did an hydraulic oil change and seemed to fix. As a second opinion that couldn't be caused by the pedal mechanism could it?
Also, I had a problem the other day, where the clutch pedal moved fine but didn't effect the clutch.
The garage did an hydraulic oil change and seemed to fix. As a second opinion that couldn't be caused by the pedal mechanism could it?
- jago25_98
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Re: Clutch Pedal Modification and Brake Pedal Bush Replacement
AP Racing link above doesn't work, but the information is still on their website:
http://www.apracing.com/info/info.asp?s ... cations_90
http://www.apracing.com/info/info.asp?s ... cations_90
- ben0307
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Re: Clutch Pedal Modification and Brake Pedal Bush Replacement
iv never seen a fiesta with a manual adj I just scrapped a p reg shell and it didnt have one can anyone tell me where or what year /model they came on
- mikeymikeyp
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Re: Clutch Pedal Modification and Brake Pedal Bush Replacement
can someone tell me the right adjustable pedal to buy please to do this mod
i can only seem to find the mk5/6 escort one with the adjustment on it which is no good for a fiesta
i can only seem to find the mk5/6 escort one with the adjustment on it which is no good for a fiesta
- pauldolman
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Re: Clutch Pedal Modification and Brake Pedal Bush Replacement
Hey guys, sorry to bump and old thread, I'm looking to swap out the auto adjust pedal in my 2i Zetec turbo to manual adjust, I've run the auto adjust pedal for 2 years now on the ap racing paddle clutch but it's starting to let go now the stress on the pawl has taken its toll, what's most frustrating is I had a manual adjust on an N reg FSI I scrapped years ago.
Can anyone list the correct for part numbers for the manual adjust pedal the little threaded bar and nylon nut, the quadrant and pawl and the bushes.
Thanks
Can anyone list the correct for part numbers for the manual adjust pedal the little threaded bar and nylon nut, the quadrant and pawl and the bushes.
Thanks
- megaflea
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Re: Clutch Pedal Modification and Brake Pedal Bush Replacement
[quote="megaflea"]Hey guys, sorry to bump and old thread, I'm looking to swap out the auto adjust pedal in my 2i Zetec turbo to manual adjust, I've run the auto adjust pedal for 2 years now on the ap racing paddle clutch but it's starting to let go now the stress on the pawl has taken its toll, what's most frustrating is I had a manual adjust on an N reg FSI I scrapped years ago.
Can anyone list the correct for part numbers for the manual adjust pedal the little threaded bar and nylon nut, the quadrant and pawl and the bushes.
Thanks[/quote]
i've done mine last year, i ended up modifying the origional RS pedal and fitting a alley clutch quadrante, the escort adjustable pedals ford sell are no good the pedal kinks to the left which catches on the heater box on our fiesta's, you'll need a pedal that goes striaght down, hope this helps
Can anyone list the correct for part numbers for the manual adjust pedal the little threaded bar and nylon nut, the quadrant and pawl and the bushes.
Thanks[/quote]
i've done mine last year, i ended up modifying the origional RS pedal and fitting a alley clutch quadrante, the escort adjustable pedals ford sell are no good the pedal kinks to the left which catches on the heater box on our fiesta's, you'll need a pedal that goes striaght down, hope this helps
- pauldolman
- Post Master
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- Joined: Mon Feb 24, 2003 12:08 am
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