fiestaturbo.com

[Percy!]

First of all what grade oil will I need for my 2litre Si?

Secondly I plan to be running new cams etc and hope to be running around 210Bhp soon (not saying how) and was wondering would it be worth me spending on some GTX magnatec or something like that?

[wywywywy]

Secondly I plan to be running new cams etc and hope to be running around 210Bhp soon (not saying how)

Throttle bodies or dragons?

[AdrianFRST]

You'll need to buy special oil (not saying what).

How about you tell us what the engine spec will be? Then we can advise properly.

[s1chris]

hello castrol gtx magnatec aint all that its cracked up to be. silkolene do some really good oils but you do pay a high price for it. although i use gtx magnetec as its easy to get hold of and quite cheap so you can change it quite regular.

[RS_Rawli]

your gonna need TB's to see over 200brake afaik with a zetec

[Percy!]

Throttle bodies or dragons?

Magic dragons of course!

You'll need to buy special oil (not saying what).

How about you tell us what the engine spec will be? Then we can advise properly.

Good point I suppose, I will tell you if I pull it off, parts are on order.

hello castrol gtx magnatec aint all that its cracked up to be. silkolene do some really good oils but you do pay a high price for it. although i use gtx magnetec as its easy to get hold of and quite cheap so you can change it quite regular.

Was thinking that myself, just trying to weight up if its worth the extra expense, saying that you must think it is if you use it.

Nobody answered what grade to get? I don't trust the card things in halfords really.

[SimonT]

Thats a bit pointless this post innit?

Its just like saying "my car is for sale - but im not gonna tell you what it is!"

[Percy!]

Thats a bit pointless this post innit?

Its just like saying "my car is for sale - but im not gonna tell you what it is!"

Ok I will change the question, should I buy cheap halfords oil or get some GTX magnetec? Is it worth it with a hi spec car?

It is just a general question really when you think about it.

[StreetDragster]

Oil is the blood of your engine, buy the best you can afford.

Thanks

Matt

[Tomdom]

gas

aye

[Fezzy Turbo]

Engine oils all have standards to work to, you should see them on the bottle. No standards on bottle = rubbish oil! but i doubt any oil on the market doesnt have the standards on the bottle.

I personaly use Shell Helix or Valvoline.

[simon16v]

castrol RS i use. 0-W40 with no problems changed every 6k miles on a 1.8 16v XR2i.

[chumkila]

[DaveZetec]

you can get castrol GTX for less than halfords cheapest stuff if you shop around (supermarkets )

ive always used decent oil, for sake of under a tenner extra there is little point scrimping.

[s1chris]

yeah i use the 0-40 castrol gtx magnatec stuff. nice and thin as what ive been told rs turbos require. i know makro (where i work at the min ) have it for around £10 if you have a trade card or indeeed a makro store near by!

[Shayne]

If you are spending money on the engine it is false economy to skimp on the standard of oil. I would not recommend using anything less than semi-synthetic. Also change oil and filter every 6,000 miles.

[gibbsy]

i would be very careful with oil on a zetec as the wrong over a time (not even s**t stuff) can cause havoc with the tappet and cause cold start and idle problem. i change mine every 6k or 6 months with ford recomend genuine oil.

[Quantum]

As already said if you're spending say £1k+ on your engine putting the wrong oil in will damage it, so buying the ideal oil for your engine will save you money in the long run.

Regards,
Stephen

[oilman]

Good oils are always worth it, that's why they cost more and extend the life of your engine.

Read and weep!

A word of caution – You get what you pay for!

Below is an article written by John Rowland, Silkolene/Fuchs Chief R & D Chemist for 40 years.

Quote:

Costs of synthetics vary considerably. The most expensive are the “Ester” types originally only used in jet engines. These cost 6 to 10 times more than high quality mineral oils.

The cheapest synthetics are not really synthetic at all, from a chemists point of view. These are in fact specially refined light viscosity mineral oils known as “hydrocracked”. These have some advantages over equivalent mineral oils, particularly in lower viscosity motor oils such as 5w-30 or other oils with a low “W” rating such as 5w-50 etc and they cost about 1.5 times more than good quality mineral fractions.

We use several different grades of this base oil, where appropriate. This is the “synthetic” which is always used in cheap oils that are labelled “synthetic”. Yes it’s a cruel world, you get what you pay for!

Now, you may ask, why are these special mineral oils called “synthetic”? Well, it was all sorted in a legal battle that took place in the USA about ten years ago. Sound reasons (including evidence from a Nobel Prize winning chemist) were disregarded and the final ruling was that certain mineral bases that had undergone extra chemical treatments could be called “synthetic”.

Needless to say, the marketing executives wet their knickers with pure delight! They realised that this meant, and still does, that the critical buzz-word “synthetic” could be printed on a can of cheap oil provided that the contents included a few percent of “hydrocracked” mineral oil, at a cost of quite literally a few pence.

So, the chemistry of “synthetics” is complex and so is the politics!

The economics are very simple. If you like the look of a smart well-marketed can with “synthetic” printed on it, fair enough, it will not cost you a lot; and now you know why this is the case. But, if you drive a high performance car, and you intend to keep it for several years, and maybe do the odd “track day”, then you need a genuine Ester/PAO (Poly Alpha Olefin) synthetic oil.

This oil costs more money to buy, because it costs us a lot of money to make, very simply, you always get what you pay for!

UNQUOTE:

Don't take it from me, take it from a chemist!

Cheers
Simon