fiestaturbo.com

[FezzR]

i was under the impression emulators facilitate chip read/burn,

i know what you mean about frustration of having to burn chips every time, but for the price of an emulator i think its worth waiting till the point where im frustrated before shelling out the extra $$$ (nearly double the read/burn)

[sailorbob]

Unfortunately the Ostrich and Romulator will only allow you to emulate a chip and have no reading or burning capabilites. You download your code into the emulator off a pc and then the code runs from the emulator rather than a chip. With the Ostrich it has it's own battery so you can leave it connected to the eec instead of a J3 chip adapter card (eg Craig Moates' F1 or F2) and you could drive around with it in place until you are happy with your chip tune. To avoid having to buy a chip burner you can send the binary to someone who has a burner and get them to do it for you. Not being able to change the code and see the immediate effect on an engine is unthinkable to me now.

[FezzR]

ecu off now, and for reference its "club"
J3 loverly and clean now

[Andy.B]

Scort that supressor is not essential to the working of the car, its ok to leave it out, some tuners even take them out because of the delay of the signal to the map sensor once its chiped.

Edited due to my 'conquering device' up sorry

[Captain Tightpants]

Scort that supressor is not essential to the working of the car, its ok to leave it out, some tuners even take them out because of the delay of the signal to the map sensor once its chiped.

BTW your OFAC, and OFAB pin outs are the wrong way round

I knew this was going to happen at some point.

Yes mate, I know your feelings as stated in the other post.

With regards to pinouts, those pinouts, are as I have measured them. Which is now coming up to a dozen looms in total.

Lets think about it logically, your saying that an XR2i, that uses the digital type map sensor, uses the same pinouts as an OFAB ecu. And not the digital type OFAC sensor. It makes no real sense. The XR2i ecu will almost definately have the same pinouts as the OFAC one.

If you check your OFAC/OFAB descriptions, you will also note that there are plenty of people questioning it. Because its wrong.

I'm not going on what I have been told here, I'm going on what I know to be 100% correct on every loom I have measured. Why would they change.

How many looms have you actually measured?

I'm not going to get into an argument about this. As I have always said, whenever these changes are made, you should measure them, and do research for yourself.

Stu at MSD also agrees with these pinouts.

Steve

[Project]

Fer Gawd's sake, will you two please come to a resolution over this so I can make this a Guide/FAQ?

[Andy.B]

Sorry for causing a bit of a dispute, i have just gone throught all my notes from 3-4 years ago now about OFAB and OFAC and they are the same as yours, when i do my conversions i follow what i have written down that will explain why they work

Looks like a made a type O on the guide and it will be corrected ASAP, sorry for the inconvienience this has caused, looks like you will be getting all the PM about this now

Take it easy mate and sorry

It usually takes someone to point out my 'conquering device' ups in public to get me to question my self and what has been written.

The Guide in FAQ has been ammended to my notes in front of me and is now correct, Scort would you like to check it out for me as i dont want this going any further than it has.

[Captain Tightpants]

Sorry for causing a bit of a dispute, i have just gone throught all my notes from 3-4 years ago now about OFAB and OFAC and they are the same as yours, when i do my conversions i follow what i have written down that will explain why they work

Looks like a made a type O on the guide and it will be corrected ASAP, sorry for the inconvienience this has caused, looks like you will be getting all the PM about this now

Take it easy mate and sorry

It usually takes someone to point out my 'conquering device' ups in public to get me to question my self and what has been written.

The Guide in FAQ has been ammended to my notes in front of me and is now correct, Scort would you like to check it out for me as i dont want this going any further than it has.

Much respect to you mate. Seriously.

Steve

[andyhardy]

Before any further action is taken, can one of you please call Kofi Annan and arrange for a UN resolution - pleeeeeeeeeeease!

[Excursion]

WHOOOOOOO HOOOOOOOO

[/url]

[Captain Tightpants]

WHOOOOOOO HOOOOOOOO

[/url]

Thats not appreciation!!!


























THATS, appreciation!!!

Steve

[Andy.B]

[Captain Tightpants]

Learnt an interesting fact the other day.

When converting to E-DIS4, there is no need to change the rev counter. A standard one will do.

Using external E-DIS, run a wire from pin 11 on the E-DIS4 unit to the rev counter; problem solved as this a clean rpm output. And gives you the right number of pulses per engine revolutions, disregarding the need for EFi RPM counter.

Steve

[Captain Tightpants]

Right then boys and girls!

Moving on to ECU's codes & compatibility!

Here is a fairly comprehensive list of EEC-IV ecu's and their codes. I have only included CVH & Zetec ecus.

What I am suggesting we do, is link all compatible ECU's. The amount of posts that are put up about which ECU is compatible etc, we can point them all here.

So, If you have done your 2.0 conversion,could you please post up which ECU you had and changed it to, and I will update the list with linking ECU codes!

Escort/Orion 1.6 litre 16 Valve 92 on 92AB12A650AC XEF2ABAC

Escort/Orion 1.6 litre 16 Valve 92 on 93AB12A650AB XEF3ABAB

Escort/Orion 1.6 litre 16 Valve 93 on 93AB12A650AC XEF3ABAC *AGED*

Escort/Orion 1.6 litre 16 Valve 94 on 94AB12A650EB XEF4ABEB *ENVY*

Escort/Orion 1.6 litre 16 Valve 94 on 94AB12A650HB XEF4ABHB *HAWK*

Escort/Orion 1.6 litre 16 Valve 94 on 95AB12A650HA XEF5ABHA *EDGE*

Escort/Orion 1.6 litre 16 Valve 95 on 95AB12A650XA XEF5ABXA *WIND*

Escort/Orion 1.6 litre 16 Valve 95 on 95AB12A650NA XEF5ABNA *NUDE*

Escort/Orion 1.6 litre 16 Valve 95 on 95AB12A650TA XEF5ABTA *TART*

Escort/Orion 1.6 litre 16 Valve 95 on 95AB12A650TB XEF5ABTB *TUNA*

Escort/Orion 1.6 litre 16 Valve 95 on 95AB12A650ZA XEF5ABZA *SILK*

Escort/Orion 1.6 litre 16 Valve 95 on 95AB12A650ZB XEF5ABZB *STAG*

Escort/Orion 1.6 litre 16 Valve 95 on 95AB12A650RA XEF5ABRA Auto *RIOT*

Escort/Orion 1.6 litre 16 Valve 95 on 95AB12A650UB XEF5ABUB Auto *LION*

Escort/Orion 1.6 litre 16 Valve 95 on 95AB12A650UD XEF5ABUD Auto *LADS*

Escort 1.6 litre 16 Valve 96 on 96AB12A650KB XEF6ABKB *JEEP*

Escort 1.6 litre 16 Valve 97 on 98AB12A650AWA XEF8ABWA *WISH*

Escort 1.6 litre 16 Valve 98 on 98AB12A650BDB XEF8ABDB *DARK*

Escort/Orion 1.8 litre 16 Valve 92-93 92FB12A650CD XEF2FBCD 105BHP

Escort/Orion 1.8 litre 16 Valve 92-93 92FB12A650CE XEF2FBCE 105BHP *NEON*

Escort/Orion 1.8 litre 16 Valve 94 on 94FB12A650BB XEF4FBBB 105BHP *BEAU*

Escort/Orion 1.8 litre 16 Valve 94 on 95FB12A650FA XEF5FBFA 105BHP *BALL*

Escort/Orion 1.8 litre 16 Valve 95 on 95AB12A650SA XEF5ABSA 105BHP *SKIN*

Escort/Orion 1.8 litre 16 Valve 95 on 95FB12A650VA XEF5FBVA 105BHP *VEIN*

Escort/Orion 1.8 litre 16 Valve 95 on 95FB12A650VB XEF5FBVB 105BHP *VASE*

Escort 1.8 litre 16 Valve 96 on 97AB12A650JA XEF7ABJA 115BHP *JUMP*

Escort 1.8 litre 16 Valve 97 on 97AB12A650JB XEF7ABJB 115BHP *JEST*

Escort 1.8 litre 16 Valve 97 on 98AB12A650ASA XEF8ABSA 115BHP *SLUG*

Escort 1.8 litre 16 Valve 98 on 98AB12A650BEB XEF8ABEB 115BHP *EXPO*

Escort 1.8 litre 16 Valve 98 on XS4F12A650MA XEFS4FMA 115BHP *LAIR*

Escort/Orion 1.8 litre 16 Valve 92-93 92FB12A650BC XEF2FBBC 130BHP

Escort/Orion 1.8 litre 16 Valve 92-93 92FB12A650BD XEF2FBBD 130BHP *COPY*

Escort/Orion 1.8 litre 16 Valve 93-94 92FB12A650BE XEF2FBBE 130BHP *MONK*

Fiesta/XR2i 1.6 litre 89-90 89AB12A650AA XEF9ABAA

Fiesta/XR2i 1.6 litre 90 89 AB12A650AC XEF9ABAC

Fiesta/XR2i 1.6 litre 90-91 89AB12A650DA XEF9ABDA

Fiesta/XR2i 1.6 litre 90-91 89AB12A650FA XEF9ABFA

Fiesta/XR2i 1.6 litre 90-91 91AB12A650DA XEF1ABDA

Fiesta/XR2i 1.6 litre 90-91 91AB12A650DB XEF1ABDB

Fiesta/XR2i 1.6 litre 90-91 91AB12A650FA XEF1ABFA

Fiesta 1.6 litre 16 Valve 94 on 94AB12A650GB XEF4ABGB *GURU*

Fiesta 1.8 litre 16 Valve 92-93 92FB12A650CE XEF2FBCE 105BHP *NEON*

Fiesta 1.8 litre 16 Valve 94 on 94FB12A650BB XEF4FBBB 105BHP *BEAU*

Fiesta RS1800 16 Valve 92 92FB12A650DC XEF2FBDC 130BHP

Fiesta RS1800 16 Valve 92-93 92FB12A650DD XEF2FBDD 130BHP *ALSO*

Fiesta RS Turbo 1.6 litre 90-91 V90FB12A650AB XEF0FBAB *OFAB*

Fiesta RS Turbo 1.6 litre 91 on V90FB12A650AC XEF0FBAC *OFAC*

Mondeo 1.8 litre 16 Valve 93 on 93BB12A650BB XEF3BBBB *BLOB*

Mondeo 1.8 litre 16 Valve 93 on 93BB12A650BC XEF3BBBC *BLIP*

Mondeo 1.8 litre 16 Valve Auto 93 on 93BB12A650CA XEF3BBCA *CAMP*

Mondeo 1.8 litre 16 Valve Auto 93 on 93BB12A650CD XEF3BBCD *COCO*

Mondeo 1.8 litre 16 Valve 94 on 95BB12A650JA XEF5BBJA *SACK*

Mondeo 1.8 litre 16 Valve 95 on 95BB12A650JB XEF5BBJB *SEAL*

Mondeo 1.8 litre 16 Valve Auto 95 on 95BB12A650PA XEF5BBPA *EAST*

Mondeo 1.8 litre 16 Valve 96 on 95BB12A650JC XEF5BBJC *SNOW*

Mondeo 1.8 litre 16 Valve Auto 96 on 96BB12A650MA XEF6BBMA *ELBA*

Mondeo 2 litre 16 Valve 93 on 93BB12A650ED XEF3BBED *DESK*

Mondeo 2 litre 16 Valve 93 on 93BB12A650EE XEF3BBEE *DEWY*

Mondeo 2 litre 16 Valve 93 on 93BB12A650EF XEF3BBEF *DEEP*

Mondeo 2 litre 16 Valve Auto 93 on 93BB12A650GC XEF3BBGC *EDAM*

Mondeo 2 litre 16 Valve Auto 93 on 93BB12A650GD XEF3BBGD *EARS*

Mondeo 2 litre 16 Valve 94 on 93BB12A650EG XEF3BBEG *DALE*

Mondeo 2 litre 16 Valve 94 on 95BB12A650KA XEF5BBKA *TAXI*

Mondeo 2 litre 16 Valve 95 on 95BB12A650KB XEF5BBKB *TELL*

Mondeo 2 litre 16 Valve Auto 95 on 95BB12A650UA XEF5BBUA *PIPE*

Mondeo 2 litre 16 Valve Auto 96 on 96BB12A650PA XEF6BBPA *PLOT*

Steve

[heeman10]

The guys at Ford had fun and games making those names up didn't they? I mean, I've heard some damn funny ones, but that list is enough to make you bring your tea and biscuits back up with laughter!

[Captain Tightpants]

I do like 'BLOB'!!

WTF!?

Steve

[FezzR]

DEWY, ALBA have nice rings

[Ollybee]

Very interesting.

[Andy.B]

I know some of the 1.1 CFi ones are GERM

[Ollybee]

I know some of the 1.1 CFi ones are GERM

And FLUX as well. Not exactly the flux capacitor.

[cfoster]

Scort - superb writeup there mate, i was just posting on xrtwo.com about info on that and thought id search on here!!!!

BTW any ideas what this is? I have dropped a FRST engine into my xr2 and have put the loom in (OFAC), I just need to plumb it to the car. I think it might be a suppresor for the rev counter but not sure! Any ideas?!



Thanks
Chris

[Captain Tightpants]

Thats what it looks like to me bud!

Steve

[Wes TT]

Scort is there any way round me having to get an EFi rev counter for my ERST? or can I do what you mentioned before with pin 11 off the EDIS?

I've got 88 spec clocks in mine if it makes any difference to the rev counter...

I can get hold of 90 spec ERST clocks no problem its just getting the XR3i EFi clocks is the problem, especially on this rock!

[Captain Tightpants]

Scort is there any way round me having to get an EFi rev counter for my ERST? or can I do what you mentioned before with pin 11 off the EDIS?

I've got 88 spec clocks in mine if it makes any difference to the rev counter...

I can get hold of 90 spec ERST clocks no problem its just getting the XR3i EFi clocks is the problem, especially on this rock!

You got it in one mate!

Using external E-DIS, run a wire from pin 11 on the E-DIS4 unit to the rev counter; problem solved as this a clean rpm output. And gives you the right number of pulses per engine revolutions, disregarding the need for EFi RPM counter.

Good luck,

Steve

[Project]

Why this hasn't already been info'd/guide'd I'll never know...!

/al

[Captain Tightpants]

Why this hasn't already been info'd/guide'd I'll never know...!

/al

Bugger! It's not finished yet!

Have to get my arse in gear I suppose!

Steve

[Wes TT]

Sorry if I'm being thick matey but will I need to change to 90 spec clocks then? and where do I put the wire from the EDIS to on the rev counter??

[Captain Tightpants]

No worries mate. You can use your standard clocks.

The wire from the clocks will already be in the engine bay bud. It's just a case of sorting out which one it is. It comes out from the fuse box area, and is green.

Steve

[Wes TT]

that'll be the one to the coil then....

Cheers mate

[Captain Tightpants]

UPDATE.........

Early Zetecs came fitted with external E-DIS. I have recently fitted a 2.0 to my orion, and wanted to make use of a decent 2.0 Mondeo ECU. All Manual Mondeo's are fitted with internal E-DIS.

For this setup I used a DESK ECU, I also tried a DEWY, while I was at it. They both worked fine. It's worth noting that you will need to change the MAF to a 2.0 one also. The 1.8 one is calibrated wrong.



I will start with a bit of an ECU pinout chart, as I usually do!! There are a few pins I have not included, for instance Air-Con etc.

Mondeo DESK
1 Battery
2
3 Speed Sensor
4 Tacho
5
6
7 ECT Sensor
8 Fuel Pump Relay
9 MAF
10
11 Emission Canister Purge
12
13 Engine Coolant Fan Relay 1
14 Pulsed Secondary Air Injection
15 Engine Coolant fan Relay 2
16 Ignition Current return
17 Data Link
18 Engine Diagnostic Connector
19 Engine Diagnostic Connector
20 Current Return
21 Idle Control Valve
22 Fuel Pump Relay
23
24 Camshaft Position
25 IAT Sensor
26 TPS
27 EGR
28 PAS
29
30
31 Engine Coolant Fan Relay 3
32
33 EGR
34 Digital Multifunction Display
35 Injector 4
36
37 Engine Control Relay
38
39 Injector 3
40 Current Return
41
42 Octane Coding Plug
43
44 HEGO
45
46 Sensor Common
47 TPS
48 Data Link
49
50 MAF
51 Injector 1
52 Injector 2
53
54
55 Crank Position Sensor
56 Crank Position Sensor
57 Engine Control Relay
58 Ignition Coil 1&4
59 Ignition Coil 2&3
60 Current return

Escort
1 Battery
2
3 Speed Sensor
4 Ignition Control Module
5
6
7 ECT Sensor
8 Fuel Pump Relay
9 MAF
10
11 Emission Canister Purge (37)
12
13
14 Pulsed Secondary Air Injection (37)
15
16 Ignition Control Current Return
17 Data Link
18 Engine Diagnostic Connector
19 Engine Diagnostic Connector
20 Current Return
21 Idle Control Valve
22 Fuel Pump Relay
23
24 Camshaft Position
25 IAT Sensor
26 TPS
27
28 PAS
29
30
31
32
33
34
35 Injector 4
36 Ignition Control Module
37 Engine Control Relay
38
39 Injector 3
40 Current return
41
42 Octane Coding Plug
43
44 HEGO
45
46 Sensor Common
47 TPS
48 Data Link
49
50 MAF
51
52
53
54
55
56 Ignition Control Module
57 Engine Control Relay
58 Injector 1
59 Injector 2
60 Current Return

It's obvious from even briefly looking at the pinouts, the main problems! Injectors 1&2 are in completely different places. Also the CPS is connected directly to the ECU, rather than the E-DIS unit.

Firstly, disconnect your battery, and remove the ecu. Then try and remove the wrapping tape on the part of the loom that enters the engine bay, to the E-DIS unit.



You will need to run a new wire to the ECU from the CPS. I used a piece of 0.25mm 2-Pair screened cable. This basically needs to be run from the CPS right up to the ECU plug, and connected to - Pins 55 & 56. I had some pins from another old loom, with about 50mm of cable still left on them, as I don't have any ECU plug pins, I soldered the wires to these and inserted thepins. One of the pins is already taken up. Remove this pin and leave it out for a minute.



Once this is connected you can swap some wires over for your injectors.

The coil pack centre wire is an ignition live, and the ECU pulses each coil. I used the old wires that were connected to the injectors, cut and connected them to the DIS pack. These connect to pins 58 & 59,(to which they are already connected) they are fire cylinders 1 & 4, and 3 & 2 respectively.

The next cable and pin changes to be done are for the injectors. You will have cut the cables to use them for the coil pack. I used the two of the cables from the E-DIS unit (to which there are four), and connected them to the injectors. These then need moving from their current positions on the ECU plug, to pins 51 & 51, injectors 1 & 2 respectively.

One of the last connections to be made is for the Tacho. You will have had a green wire running from the E-DIS module. It will be the only green wire there, this needs connecting to the blue and yellow wire which comes from the E-DIS unit and goes to pin 4 on the ECU plug. Bell it out to ensure the colours are the same though!

Pin 16 on the ECU needs to be connected to current return ( the chassis ). I used a short piece of wire connected to the ecu, and connected it near the ECU. This is for the internal DIS.

You will end up with one spare cable going to the ecu, to which I put come heat shrink on both ends and taped back out of the way. You will also have an ignition live feed that went to the E-DIS unit. This also needs to be heat shrunk and taped back out of the way.

Once you have finished, wrap it ull up nicely with loom tape, and your done!



I have been running a 2.0 on 105 1.8 management for a little while now (mainly because I'm lazy!) but I only noticed a slight increase in power. It did however make the engine run much smoother.

Hope this helps someone,

Steve

[Smo]

Woo hoo, that's a handy little guide that

Something I've been wanting to do for a while, but as I haven't needed to yet I hadn't asked about it! Might get that all sorted though now

Good work Steve

[Captain Tightpants]

Service adjustments,

Preparatory conditions

Ensure the engine is at normal operating temperature. Ensure the Ignition system is in good condition, and functioning normally. Ensure the air filter is installed and in good condition. All auxiliary equipment should be switched OFF. The Radiator fan must not run during checks and adjustments. Run the engine at 3000rpm for 15 seconds then allow to idle.

Idle Speed

Adjustment

Regulated idle speed 900 +/- 50rpm
Base idle speed LHA 750rpm, Except LHA 675rpm

Idle speed is electronically controlled, so no adjustment is possible. If idle speed is not as specified as above, check for intake air leaks. If there are no air leaks, carry out component, and electrical tests.

Adjustment - base idle speed

Connect a suitable diagnostic/code reader to the data link connector.
Switch on diagnostic equipment.
Switch ignition ON.
Wait 3 seconds.
Start the Engine.
Code 50 should be displayed followed by a change in idle speed.
When code 10 is displayed, 'blip' the throttle.
Engine speed should increase to over 2500rpm.
When code 60 is displayed, switch the engine OFF.
Disconnect diagnostic unit.
Start engine.
Allow to idle.
Disconnect the idle speed control valve (ISCV).
Increase engine speed to 2500rpm approx, and hold for 30 seconds.
Release accelerator.
Check base idle speed.
Remove blanking plug from bottom of the throttle body housing.
Adjust base idle speed with idle speed screw.
Reconnect ISCV.
Allow the engine to idle for 5 minutes to allow the ECU to memorise the idle speed values.

CO Level

Co level 1.5% +/- 0.25%

Check CO level using suitable instrument.
If CO level not as specified: Remove blanking plug from CO adjustment POT,
Adjust CO level by turning the POT.

Fuel System

Fuel Pressure

Ensure the ignition is switched OFF.
Connect pressure gauge between fuel supply pipe and fuel rail.
Start engine.
Allow to idle.
Pressure should be at 2.5Bar.
Disconnect the vacuum pipe from the fuel pressure regulator.
The Pressure should rise to 3.0Bar.
Adjustments can be made via adjusting the screw on the top of the fuel pressure regulator.

Injectors

Checking resistance

Ensure ignition is switched off.
Disconnect injector multi-plugs.
Check resistance between injector terminals. This should be between 15 & 17 Ohms.

Checking supply voltage

Ensure ignition is switched OFF.
Disconnect the injector multiplugs.
Briefly crank engine.
Check voltage between multiplug terminal and ground point on car. This should read at your battery voltage, so aroun 12-13v

Fuel pump

Checking operation

Switch ignition ON.
Fuel pump should run for approx 1 Second.
If pump does not run: Switch ignition OFF.
Remove fuel pump relay.
Bridge relay base terminals 30 and 87 with a switch lead.
Fuel pump should run continuously when a switch is operated.
If fuel pump does not run: Check wiring, fuse and inertia fuel shut-off switch.

Intake system

Throttle position sensor (TPS)

Ensure ignition is switched OFF.
Disconnect TPS multiplug.
Check resistance between TPS sensor terminals, resistance should be as follows.
Pins 1&3 - Throttle closed - 2000-5500 ohms
Pins 2&3 - Throttle closed - 150-2000 ohms
Pins 2&3 - Throttle open - 3500-5000 ohms
Pins 1&2 - any position - 4000-5500 ohms
Operate throttle valve whilst checking pins 2&3, the resistance changes should be smooth.

Checking supply voltage

Ensure ignition is switched OFF
Disconnect TPS sensor multiplug
Switch ignition ON.
Check voltage between pins 1 & ground. Should be approx 5 Volts.

Manifold absoloute pressure sensor (MAP)

Checking supply voltage
This applys to OFAC only.

Ensure ignition switch is OFF
Disconnect MAP sensor multiplug
Switch ignition ON.
Check voltage between pin 1 & ground point. Should be 5v appox.

Checking operation

Ensure ignition is switched OFF
Ensure engine is at a normal operating temperature.
Do not disconnect MAP sensor, but access the multiplug terminals.
Connect a suitable multi-meter or oscilloscope between miltiplug terminal 2 & ground.
Switch ignition ON
Check frequency, it should be 160Hz approx
Start engine.
Allow to idle.
Check frequency, it should be 105Hz approx.

Intake Air Temperature sensor (IAT)

Checking resistance

Ensure ignition is switched OFF.
Disconnect IAT sensor multiplug.
Measure the resistance between the multiplug terminals
This is fairly difficult, but these are the temperatures/resistance you need to be checking.
0 deg C, 88000 - 102000 Ohms
20 deg C, 35000 - 40000 Ohms
40 deg C, 15000 - 17000 Ohms
60 deg C, 7100 - 8000 Ohms
80 deg C, 3000 - 4500 Ohms

Idle speed control valve(ISCV)

Checking resistance

Ensure ignition is switched OFF
Disconnect ISCV multi plug.
Check resistance between terminals. It should be 6-20 Ohms.

Checking Supply voltage

Ensure ignition is switched OFF
Disconnect ISCV multiplug
Switch ignition ON.
Check voltage between harness multiplug and ground. It should read battery voltage, so around 12-13v.

Turbocharger Regulator Valve (AMAL)

Checking resistance

Ensure ignition is switched OFF.
Disconnect AMAL valve multiplug.
Check resistance between AMAL valve terminals. It should be 30-120 Ohms.

Checking supply voltage

Ensure ignition is switched OFF
Disconnect AMAL valve multiplug
Switch ignition ON
Check voltage between multiplug terminals. It should read battery voltage, so between 12 & 13v.

Ignition System

High-tension spark

Ensure ignition is switched OFF
Disconnect injector multiplugs
Disconnect one high-tension lead from a spark plug.
Connect a test spark plug to the high-tension lead.
Using insulated pliers, hold the test spark plug 6mm from a suitable ground.
Briefly crank engine.
Check for a strong blue spark.
Repeat test for each high-tension lead.

Ignition timing & firing order

Firing order 1-3-4-2

Checking and adjustment

Ignition timing electronically controlled.
No adjustment possible.
Ensure high-tension leads are connected properly
Connect stroboscopic timing light.
Start engine
Allow to idle
Check ignition timing. Should be 10 deg/900rpm
If ignition timing not as specified: Carry out component and electrical tests.

Ignition Coil

Checking supply voltage

Ensure ignition is switched OFF
Disconnect ignition coil multiplug
Switch ignition ON.
Check voltage in the multiplug between pin 2 and ground. Should be battery voltage, so between 12-13v
If voltage not as specified, check wiring.

Checking primary resistance

Ensure ignition is switched OFF
Disconnect ignition coil multiplug
Disconnect ignition coil high-tension leads.
Check resistanve between low-tension terminals. Should be between 0.4 - 0.6 Ohms

Checking Secondary Resistance

Ensure ignition is switched OFF.
Disconnect ignition coil multiplug.
Disconnect ignition coil high-tension leads.
Check resistance between the ignition coil high-tension connectors. It should be as follows:
Between 1&4 10500-16500 Ohms
Between 2&3 10500-16500 Ohms

Engine Sensors

Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor (ECT)

Checking

Ensure Ignition is switched OFF
Disconnect ECT sensor multiplug
Relieve residual pressure in the cooling system.
Remove ECT sensor from engine.
Immerse ECT sensor probe in coolant of specified temperature, and check resistance between terminals.
0 deg C - 8800-102000 Ohms
20 deg C - 35000-40000 Ohms
40 deg C - 15000-17000 Ohms
60 deg C - 7100-8000 Ohms
80 deg C - 3000-4500 Ohms

Crankshaft position sensor (CPS)

Ensure ignition is switched OFF.
Disconnect CPS multiplug
Check resistance between CPS sensor terminals. It should read 200-450 Ohms.

Vehicle Sensors

Vehicle speed sensor (VSS)

Checking supply voltage

Ensure ignition is switched OFF
Disconnect VSS mutliplug
Switch ignition ON
Check voltage between pin 1 and ground. It should be Battery voltage, so between 12-13v

Checking operation

Ensure ignition is switched OFF
Disconnect ECU multiplug
Connect multimeter between pins 4 & 40
Raise vehicle and turn the road wheels.
The meter should read fluctuating battery voltage.

Hope this helps,

Steve

[gasmanfrst]

hi im new on here and im having a lot of trouble with my frst.... i read the post on the ecu's and when i checked my ecu its different from ur info?????

Converting an OFAC loom to OFAB

1) At the ECU, pin no. 27 (marked on the multiplug, brown wire) needs moving to pin 8, which is empty (this is the CO adjuster signal wire).
2) Pin no. 45 (brown/yellow) needs moving to pin 27 - this is for the MAP sensor.

on mine!!!! ofac ecu.. pin 8 is brown and pin 45 brown/yellow and pin 27 is not connected??? plz help!!!

the reason for doing this is cause i bought the car recently (a non runner) and the previous owner said it was the ecu, so i got one off ebay but when it arrived it was the OFAB ecu instead off the OFAC ecu. so i thought id try the ecu out before i send it back,,,,, but still no good!! any idea most appreciated... regards gasman

[Ritey]

Useful info, great stuff!

[clarke5700]

hello there im puting an efi fiesta rs lump in my mk2 fiesta does the conector that you have shown us wire up the same as the ofab ecu as i have the engine half of the loom any help would help lol thanks