fiestaturbo.com

[knuckles]

knuckles... was in halfrauds today buying a bike... the kit was £24.99... baxtered... is it cheaper on tinternet or not? would have bought it if i didnt have a huge ass box with me!

yea £24.99

its worth buying the megulairs kit though as you get 2 clay bars included in the kit. All the other kits only have one clay bar

[ben17southport]

knuckles... was in halfrauds today buying a bike... the kit was £24.99... baxtered... is it cheaper on tinternet or not? would have bought it if i didnt have a huge ass box with me!

yea £24.99

its worth buying the megulairs kit though as you get 2 clay bars included in the kit. All the other kits only have one clay bar

yeah i noticed that. is a clay bar literally used once, and thats it?

never really understand how the clay bar does what it does etc...

[knuckles]

the clay bar can be reused more than once. The key is to keep the panel very wet with the detailing spray then use soft circular motions to lift off the crap off the paintwork and then knead the clay ball into a ball in your hands to get rid of the crap on it.

[ben17southport]

righhtttt okay. then wax it after that's done? obviously the pack will tell me like but no harm in asking now

[knuckles]

righhtttt okay. then wax it after that's done? obviously the pack will tell me like but no harm in asking now

the megulairs kit comes with a small wax spray. This is applied once the claying is complete - do it one panel at a time and use a seperate microfibre cloth to apply the wax. once its waxed stand back and enjoy the results. The best bit is when it rains and all the water beads on the paintwork

[ben17southport]

im excited will need a lot of microfibre clothes then!

[knuckles]

will need a lot of microfibre clothes then!

the kit comes with one cloth

just buy one more for waxing

[ben17southport]

will need a lot of microfibre clothes then!

the kit comes with one cloth

just buy one more for waxing

sounds easy enough to me

[knuckles]

Mk2 has began to misfire when cold now. The cause is over fueling by the looks of the plugs.
These plugs aint even done 1000 miles. You can smell the fuel upon start up and out the back of tailpipe

[rs220bhp]

Progressing well mate

I clayed mine on Wednesday and the results are awesome

[HCS PIMP]

it the leads or coil pack you think

[jayrs]

its over fueling, sensor problem

[knuckles]

obtained a new NTK lambda sensor





the new sensor is a mondeo 2.0 hego hence why the loom is shorter on the new one compared to the fiesta item.
fitted 4 new spark plugs too. unplugged ecu for half hour to reset.
Hopefully when i test drive it tomoro it will run better (fingers crossed!)

[jayrs]

let me know how you get on mate

[Rhinopower]

Ouch, expensive?

[knuckles]

gave it a run up this afternoon.

Lambda has made no difference to the overfueling on idle. ready to throw in the towel with this car now

hego was £50

[Excursion]

gave it a run up this afternoon.

Lambda has made no difference to the overfueling on idle. ready to throw in the towel with this car now

hego was £50

Give your MAF a clean with carb cleaner for good measure, although its likely to be the coolant or air temp sensor.

Have you got a multimeter mate? I think Autodata has the info you need to test sensors so you can isolate exactly what is giving the problem, rather than buying things and using a process of elimination

[knuckles]

gave it a run up this afternoon.

Lambda has made no difference to the overfueling on idle. ready to throw in the towel with this car now

hego was £50

Give your MAF a clean with carb cleaner for good measure, although its likely to be the coolant or air temp sensor.

Have you got a multimeter mate? I think Autodata has the info you need to test sensors so you can isolate exactly what is giving the problem, rather than buying things and using a process of elimination

I do have a digital multimeter.
So far i have tried ...
Clean out old maf sensor with carb cleaner
New genuine ford maf sensor
New water temp sensor
New ACT sensor
New genuine iscv
New lambda sensor
New injector o-rings - in zetec sandwich plate

the problem is when the car is cold it wont idle - you need to hold the revs up with the throttle to keep it running. Then when you drive down the road and come to a hault the revs fall below 1000rpm then it stalls.

When the car is warm the revs still fall when you come to a hault. But the car tends to recover 9/10 times. it still struggles to keep the idle above 1000rpm when the revs drop.

[Rhinopower]

Was it the water sensor on the top or bottom of the thermostat housing?

I'd be very tempted to do a compression test for piece of mind tho

[knuckles]

Was it the water sensor on the top or bottom of the thermostat housing?

I'd be very tempted to do a compression test for piece of mind tho

ive replaced both sensors mate - top one does the ecu , bottom one needed doing as the temp guage wasnt working.

Both engines ive had fitted in the mk2 have run like this. I cant see compression being a issue

[sjoyce666]

Are you running a catalytic converter ?

I had similar idling and overfuelling problems in shed 3 but these were fixed with a combination of changing the catalytic converter, lambda sensor and cleaning out the MAF

[Rhinopower]

Check the 12volt live to the lambda sensor!

[Excursion]

Wow, not a lot you have left to change. Is the speed sensor OK? It's designed to stop this happening when moving so shouldn't affect idle at standstill...

Is throttle response jerky?

[RS rob]

dont give up clark
its a right little gem and you've put alot into it now,
you cant be far from sorting it now

[knuckles]

Are you running a catalytic converter ?

not running a cat - my system is this - Downpipe - lambda - mid section - Backbox

Wow, not a lot you have left to change. Is the speed sensor OK? It's designed to stop this happening when moving so shouldn't affect idle at standstill...

Is throttle response jerky?

Speed sensor is a good condition 2nd hand part - plugged in like it should be but like you say plays no part on idle from standstill when cold.

Throttle response is amazing - simon will be on shortly to confirm this. He was fortunate enough to take it for a joy ride around bluewater.

[Smo]

I don't know if I can help a bit here with trying to give an idea of what's happening...

I've seen first hand what Clark's car is doing. In my opinion, it's not a fuelling issue. Yes, apparently it's overfuelling at idle, but obviously it's not idling at the correct speed, so I'm not convinced that it's not related to the poor idle speed.

When I took the car for a drive, it drove incredibly well - there was absolutely no sign of any fuelling issues at part or full throttle at any engine speed. I've driven with a few dodgy lambdas on both my 1.8 and 2.0 engines, and they're absolute pigs to drive when they play up, but to me, this is driving beautifully. Whatever is causing the problem is affecting the idle only (as far as I can tell). Obviously it's had a brand new ISCV.

When driving, if you dip the clutch and lift off the throttle, the revs instantly drop to below an acceptable idle speed, it's not even trying to idle at around 800 to 850rpm, let alone holding the revs a smidge above 1000 while rolling, as Zetecs do. It did actually stall on me while I was coasting at around 50mph when returning to the car park. From this, I would have thought if it was just the speed sensor, then it would at least try and idle at around 800 to 850, even if it didn't hold the revs properly above 1000 while moving, so I believe it's got to be something to do with the signal to the ISCV, whether it's wriring or something else causing the ECU to make the ISCV not operate how it should?

I reckon if the ISCV is definitely OK and the ECU coolant temp sensor is definitely OK, then it's got to be wiring at some point between one of those two things and the ECU. But then even if the ECU was convinced that the engine was very hot, I can't believe it would try and keep the ISCV closed enough to the point that it can't idle fast enough? Plus again, it's fuelling fine while driving no matter if it's hot or cold, it's perfect, so really I don't think it can be a coolant sensor issue. That to me narrows it down to purely the ISCV signal, whether it be the ECU is duff (how likely is that if just the idle is an issue?) or it's wiring...

Does anyone know how the ISCV signal can accurately be tested to check that it's receiving the signal that it should be? I'm guessing it would probably need to be on an oscilloscope. It's on/off as far as I remember at whatever frequency required for the correct opening, correct?

[knuckles]

yep - what he said

discuss

[Rhinopower]

Check two things with a multimeter

Positive at the ISCV connector, and Lambda sensor

[Smo]

As far as I'm aware, he's checked the ISCV connector and it's correct voltage, however it's the frequency that can't be checked with a multimeter. I think he's going to need someone with a sillyscope to tell whether the signal is right or not.

With the lambda, I honestly believe the lambda sensor itself is fine, and if it was just the heater feed, then it would be fine for a period after lifting off the throttle before the gases cool enough again for the sensor to not operate properly, if you get me? Normally that would then cause the idle to fluctuate as opposed to just point blank not wanting to idle at all.

[Rhinopower]

megasquirt and throttle bodies

[Smo]

megasquirt and throttle bodies

Haha, job done!

[Excursion]

Very helpful Simon. Is the loom ISCV connector ok? If internally broken then the connections can slide backwards and never make contact with the terminals on the motor. Next on the loom you don't really need to check the signal, a simple continuity check will do. I'd recommend that for all the sensor return wires, and a voltage check on the feed as Ryan said (black wires I think). Was the throttle body carried over from the other engine? I can't remember if Zetec's have a sealed up base idle screw or not. If so you could turn that up to make it drivable so you can continue diagnosis. Is the ISCV getting enough air? Manifold not clogged internally?

[filtra]

Vacuum leak possibly, check your master cylinder for air leaks or other parts of the system that rely on vac.

[AW3K]

looking good as ever mate

is your alternator an rs1800 one that fits the cvh mount?

[Rhinopower]

Vacuum leak possibly, check your master cylinder for air leaks or other parts of the system that rely on vac.

No, a vacuum leak would increase rev's