fiestaturbo.com

[AW3K]

Fitting a rear wiper set up

Ford have a tendency to leave off the most basic of accessories that may be used in every day life including the rear wiper.
In this guide I will show you how to install a rear wiper set up using ford parts available new or from a scrap yard at a fraction of the price, this set-up cost me £15 roughly, and to buy this new from ford if it is still available would cost in the region of £180 plus VAT.
Although the rear wiper is not required by law, it is handy to have one to clear your view of the world behind you.
You may think but why do I need one and why are you going to show me a guide to smooth the hole over at a later date?
Well I’ll tell you…. Its because I like providing you with guides to read that may be useful. Also people don’t always have the same tastes in Modding, some people want standard (no wiper with plastic bung), some people want smoothed boots and some people want a rear wiper. Its completely up to them at the end of the day.

Well that’s enough of me raving on, its guide time now.

What you require is:

A rear wiper motor and mounting plate
Three fixing bolts and captive nuts
Rubber surround from the shaft
Contact plates with all four plates (edge of boot)
Contact pins with all four pins (edge of boot)
Connecting wires from contact pins to motor multi-plug
A rear washer jet
A wiper arm and blade (Mk3 or Mk4)
A two way washer pump and new seal
Length of silicone rubber pipe with A one-way valve. (car length)
Rubber conduit from boot to body
Wiper control stalks with rear wiper (pull towards driver)

Please note that the front wing is removed for illustration purposes only, you DO NOT remove it

Step one
Go to a scrap yard.
The wiper motor may be already removed from a car by the people at the scrap yard. If that’s the case you will have to go into the scrap yard anyway to try and find a car with the wiper still on it for the other parts.

Once a car has been located, the newer the better but still a mk3 or 3.5, go to the rear of it and Flip the plastic cap up on the pivot of the wiper shaft and use a 13mm socket and remove the nut. Keep it safe; you’ll need it later. Grab the wiper and pull, sometimes it comes off easy, then again it could need a little persuading to remove it.
Also keep that to one side or alternatively you could find a mk4 fiesta with the smoother looking arm on it and remove it.

Now the nut and arm are removed, you need to open the boot. This will depend on if you can actually get into it! More than likely there wont be a key, so you will have to put the back seats down and crawl into the boot to remove the boot trim panel.
This is done by removing a number of plastic screws along top edge and one in the bottom of the panel, then pop it off, be careful not to break it.
Grab the lock control rod and pull it upwards, the boot lid should open. Push it fully open and get out.

Looking up at the wiper motor you will notice that there is an earth point, using a 8mm socket, remove the bolt and keep it in your safe place.
Now unclip the cables from their securing clamps and disconnect the multiplug(s).

There will be three 10mm headed bolts holding the motor to the car, remove these one by one until you get to the last one, take great care with this one as all the weight of the motor is on it and if you do not support it, you could end up with a motor in your head.
With the bolts removed, gently ease the motor free from the rubber surround and the boot lid.
Put the motor to one side and go back to the car and remove the rubber surround from the boot lid by pulling it up, immediately put it back over the shaft and put the wiper arm on and loosely tighten the nut, so you know where every thing is.



Back to the car now, you need to remove the captive nuts from the boot lid, below are what they look like. There will be three of these and will need to be removed by using a flat screwdriver. Place the screwdriver onto the lipped side of the nut and push it outwards and upwards and the entire nut should release and swing back on itself, releasing it from the edges and simply drop out. Repeat for all the nuts.




Before you go to the scrap yard, make sure you know if you have all the contacts and pins on the boot edge. If your car is a lower spec it wont have them so you will need to remove these as well from the scrapped car.

With the boot open you will be able to see the contact pins, slacken but do not remove the two screws from the pins and rock the unit out of the boot.
Pull the unit out as far as it will go, you will notice that the two wires one black and one black and purple coming from the contact pins and terminate in the plug that you disconnected. These wires may be wrapped into the heated window loom, if so simply use a knife and cut the wires free, and finally remove the bullet connectors from the other wires and take the pins and wires away with you. Don’t forget to get the contact plates from the slam panel, remember this is held down by two spring clips and requires two screwdrivers to prise it out. Disconnect the wires and place with the rest of the parts. And that’s all the wiring removed.



Now the washer yet removal. Simply prise it free from the body and manoeuvre it free from the body. The pipe will be still connected to it. Unclip the pipe and move down to the rubber conduit between the car body and boot on the left hand side. Pull the rubber conduit free from both panels, whilst you are doing this you will notice the rubber pipe coming from inside the boot lid. Place the rubber conduit and washer jet on your pile.



The silicone rubber pipe that carries the water runs along the roof on the passengers side of the car therefore if the pillar trims are inside the car they will need to be loosened, if not removed to gain access to the headlining. Remove the grab handle and the head lining fixing and pull the lining down.
Now release the pipe from the clips in the roof. Once at the front of the car, you will need to completely remove the windscreen pillar trim and again unclip the pipe all the way down to the dash.

Start to push the pipe down the side of the dash towards the bulkhead. Pop the bonnet if its not already open or missing. Remove the jack and look behind the scuttle panel and the pipe should be all clumped up in there. Pull it all free from the inside of the car and unclip it all the way to just at the side of the battery, where it goes down and enters the reservoir.



If not already done so, jack up and support the car and remove the passenger side wheel and wheel arch liner. The liner is attached by a number of Torx headed screws. Loosen and remove them and pull the liner free.
Now the water reservoir is fully accessible.

The washer pump on a non-rear wiper model has only one outlet nozzle for the front windscreen, where as the two wipers version has two.
Remove the pipes from the washer pump and gently ease out the pump from the sealing grommet, be prepared to get a little wet!
This grommet or sealing washer will need to be replaced when the pump is put into it’s new home.




Now that’s all the external bits removed, it’s now time to get back in the car and remove the wiper stalks if they are needed.
A way to tell if they are needed is to look at your own wiper stalk and if it doesn’t have the picture of the square window on it and doesn’t pull towards you then you will need the switch.
The switch is removed by finding the four screws under the column shroud; removing them, then pull the shroud down from the column. Looking up from the underside of the column there are two additional screws holding the top shroud in place. Remove these and lift the plastic cover clear, leaving you access to the switch unit.
Unclip the mutiplugs on the rear of each stalk. On the top of the switch assembly there is a retaining screw that needs to be removed so the switch can be lifted straight up and out of its mounting bracket.



That’s everything that you need from the scrap yard. Now take all your parts to the sales desk, pay for them all and go home for something to eat and drink and may be a toilet break.

This is what you should have by now:

A rear wiper motor and mounting plate
Three fixing bolts and captive nuts
Rubber surround from the shaft
Contact plates with all four plates (edge of boot)
Contact pins with all four pins (edge of boot)
Connecting wires from contact pins to motor multi-plug
A rear washer jet
A wiper arm and blade (Mk3 or Mk4)
A two way washer pump and new seal
Length of silicone rubber pipe with A one-way valve. (car length)
Rubber conduit from boot to body
Wiper control stalks with rear wiper (pull towards driver)












Now its time to refit the things!

You will notice that I told you to get no main wiring at all, there is a reason for this, surprisingly all the wiring you need is already there.

Start at the rear of the car, open the boot and remove the contact plate on the boot slam panel, this is firstly to check the wiring is there and secondly to put a higher spec plate back in as the lower spec ones have plate missing for the wiper.
To remove it, use two small screwdrivers in the two recesses and poke the catches in from the front edge, pull up and withdraw.
Disconnect the old plates and reconnect the new ones and push back home.

The wires for the wiper motor are:
Black
Black / violet




Now turn your attention to the boot lid, you will notice the blanking plugs on the lid where the wiper motor and washer jet should protrude.
You will need to remove these from the inside so you need to take out the boot trim retaining screws and then pop the trim cover off.

The blanking plug for the washer jet is plastic and pops out from behind the middle cap on the top of the boot. Use a pair of long noise pliers to squeeze the tabs together and push it out, DO NOT do what I did and put a screwdriver under it as it will damage the paintwork.



The larger blanking plug is made of metal and held in with a spring clip, similar to the ones used to hold the door locks in. use the pliers again and release the clip.
Push the plug through and remember to take off the foam gasket seal.





Notice that the hole has a notch cut out of it. This is there to locate a rubber bung/ vibration dampener on the shaft of the wiper.
Press the bung into the hole making sure it is in securely.




On all the poverty models I have come across there has always been 2 or more contact pins on the boot edge, but on this car I think ford were having a cheap day as there was only one pin! So it will need replacing with a 4 pinned version.




Use a screwdriver and loosen the two screws on the existing contact pins, then pull them free, notice the one wire, that’s for the heated rear window.

Take the wiring plug that you got, the one with the two wires on it, black and black/violet and connect it up to the new pins as follows:

Pin 4: Heated Window Thick Black/Blue (Drivers side)
Pin 3: Boot Release White/Red (If Fitted)
Pin 2: Wiper Motor Black/Violet
Pin 1: Wiper Motor Black (Passenger Side)

Once you have pushed the plugs onto the pins, connect up the heated window wire and push the plugs and wiring back into the boot and screw the pins back to the boot lid securely.






Now take the wiper motor captive nuts and bolts and push them into the holes provided in the metal work of the boot lid.
I came across a slight problem here as the captive nuts I got from the scrap yard were from an mk3.5 and they don’t fit the mk3 tailgate, as the holes are smaller. Also the mk3 uses springy metal brackets instead of captives. Whichever method you use, make sure they are secure before proceeding.



Remove the nut from the wiper motor shaft. Then push the shaft into the rubber bung/vibration dampener that you fitted earlier. Use some WD40 to help it go in with ease. Push it all the way in until the wiper motor hits the metal then bolt the motor in so it does not move.

Connect the multiplug from the contact pins to the wiper motor plug and fasten the earth wire to the tailgate metal with an appropriate screw/nut.
Push the wiring into its securing clip on the bracket or use a tie wrap.

At this point there is no point in fitting the wiper arm as the motor might not be in park meaning that it could and probably would scratch the paint if you fitted the arm as you though was correct. If it weren’t the arm would end up where the number plate is!

Fit the washer jet now, the best way to do this is to take a length of pipe, connect it to the nozzle and feed the opposite end through the hole on the outside of the boot.
Remove the rubber blanking plugs in the boot lid and car body located on the edge of the boot.
Feel inside the boot through the exit hole on the edge of the boot for the pipe and pull it out.





Push the exposed pipe into and out of the bridging rubber pipe, press it into the boot lid hole and make sure it is secure. Then feed the rest of the pipe into the hole in the car body and secure it like above, don’t worry about it going anywhere or getting lost as it wont, next you need to go extreme and remove the headlining.




Now the most extreme part of this guide, dropping the head lining, remove the pillar trims inside the car (if fitted) to gain access to the headlining. Remove the interior light, sun visors and mounts, grab handle and the head lining fixing and gently pull the lining down making sure not to buckle or crease it. It is also held up with some weak glue. Feed it out through the boot so you have some area to work.




Now its time to get the pipe to the rear washer.

Open the bonnet and look under the scuttle panel near to the bonnet hinge on the passenger side, you will notice a rubber bung blocking a hole. Pop this out and cut/drill a hole in it big enough for the pipe to fit through and put it on the end of the pipe.

Push the pipe through this hole in the bulkhead into the car and direct it up the A pillar from under the dash, this can be tricky and may require another person to catch it.
Keep pulling the pipe until there is only enough slack to reach half way down the inner wing. It would be a good idea to tie the pipe to the wiring loom at this point so it does not move.





Now use the clips on the A pillar that the Arial is fastened too to secure the pipe to the body until it gets to the roof.
At the roof you need to push it through the hole into the cavity and keep feeding it to the back of the car, use the holes along the way to help you.



Now the pipe is at the back of the car it is time to connect it to the washer pipe you fed through from the boot. Feel around inside the rear panel until you find the pipe, pull both pipes out of the square hole and cut both pipes down so a connector piece can be installed but long enough for it to be removed if the boot lid has to come off.
Connect the pipes together and push it into the aperture.



Go back to the engine bay and push the grommet into the hole in the bulkhead and route the pipe down the inner wing and terminate it with a one-way valve.



Now chock the back wheels of the car, loosen the nuts on the passenger side front road wheel, jack the car up and place an axle stand under the lower arm mount for safety while working under the wheel arch.
Remove the road wheel and place it under the hub, again safety. Set too and remove the plastic arch liner, this is held on with a number of Torx headed screws.
Manipulate the liner out from under the arch and set aside.



Please note that in these pictures the arch is not there, your working area will be a little more cramped.
Now you can see the water bottle for the window washers, depress the metal tab on the multiplug connection on top of the pump and pull upwards.
Place a bucket under the pump area of the bottle, pull or cut the pipe from the pump then grasp the pump and wiggle it out of the bottle. The filter sealing washer may come off with the pump or it may stay in the bottle, if it comes off with the pump, pull it from the pump and push back into the bottle to stop the flow of water from the bottle.



You can now see the differenced between the two pumps, the one on the left is the original one wiper pump and the one on the right is the two-wiper version, which is also larger and has two nozzles. Also in this picture is the filter washer.


Push the new pump into the filter washer on the bottle and secure into the channel on the bottle and connect the existing pipe to the front nozzle (Black).
Run a piece of pipe from the one-way valve down the rest of the wing with the other pipe from the front washers to the bottle. Push the new pipe into the channel in the side of the bottle and connect it to the second (green) nozzle on the pump.
Reconnect the wiring multiplug ensuring that the wires were in the channel between the two pipes.




Refit the arch liner and wheel then lower the car to the floor then move back inside, this time to the drivers seat.

Look at your wiper stalk and see if it has the following logo and can be moved towards the back of the car, if so you can skip the next bit.



Remove the cowling from around the steering column to gain access to the wiper and indicator stalk.
The cowling is held on by four Torx headed screws on the lower section and the upper section is held on by again four screws but two are on the underside towards the back of the plastic.
Remove the single screw from the top of the switch, unclip the two plugs from the rear of the switch and pull the switch free from the column.
Fit the new switch with the rear wiper controls and reconnect the wiring plugs and screw into place.
Refit the cowling in reverse order as above.

Close the boot lid and turn the ignition key to accessory (one before starting) and flick the wiper stalk towards you and the rear wiper should start to work, you wont be able to see it unless you get out and have a look as no arm is fitted.
Whilst the wiper is running, pull the stalk to wards you a little more and you should hear the washer motor powering up, keep it pressed a few seconds as the water needs to prime the pipes, now the water should spray out all over the back window.

Stop the wiper by pushing the stalk towards the windscreen. Get out of the car and position the wiper arm onto the shaft, so it lies at the bottom of the window. Fit the two washers and tighten up the 13mm nut then flick the plastic cover down to cover it.
Why not fit an mk4 wiper arm instead of the ropey mk3 one, it looks better and it’s stronger.






Open the boot and refit the plastic trim panel and screws, then feed the headlining back into the car.

A little piece of advice here from me, why not add the wiring for the rear curtsey light as described in the guide HERE, http://www.fiestaguides.co.uk/content/r ... light.html as it saves taking the lining down at a later date.

What ever you decide you will need to put the head lining back up, use your head to manoeuvre it back into position and get someone to hold it while you go around putting the fixings back up and all the visors and handles etc.
Refit the pillar trims if fitted and tidy up.


I recon that’s it for this guide, yet another creature comfort added to your fiesta.

Written on 22nd October 2005 by Andrew Whiteman (AW3K)

[AW3K]

plenty of people looking but no comments

Andy

[Captain Tightpants]

You must get very bored!

Good job I'm sure though,

Steve

[AW3K]

You must get very bored!

Good job I'm sure though,

Steve

not strickly true lol am unemployed so got loads of time and my guides are done in reverse as i am stripping project £40.

cheers for the comment

Andy

[knuckles]

Keep up the good work

Your guides certainly helped me when i had to install electric windows and boot popper on my old 1.1

Was just wondering if you could do a guide to upgrade the basis electric window swiches on the center console to the switches on the door pockets ?

[Peter]

Great guide. The rear wash wipe is very useful, and fortunately one of the things that works on my car.

All your guides are good - I've saved the one about adding a boot pop. I'll do it one day.

[ianFRST]

when you doing the zetec turbo guide

[AW3K]

when you doing the zetec turbo guide

thanks for all the comments every one


probabally soon lol i can get a 2.0L zetec engine for £80 with box and all ancilleries lol

when i get some money and shot of my rusty shell it will begin

Andy

[Cloud Strife]

Another good guide Looking forward to that zetec turbo guide

[djnathand]

Any chance of getting the images re-hosted?

Don't have a rear wiper on mine and really want one... Hate not being able to see out the back when it's raining!

[AW3K]

its all on http://www.fiestaguides.co.uk

ANdy

[djnathand]

Thanks mate, i realised that after I'd posted lol!

having a few issues with the pins and plate, mine's got different coloured cables to what's mentioned :(

[AW3K]

what colours?

is it a mk3.5 by any chance?

Andy

[djnathand]

Mine's a MK3 but I'm guessing the Fiesta I got the 4 pin part from was a MK3.5?

Here's a picture of what I got... I have a feeling I'll be going back to the scrap yard as I don't think I got all the bit I needed!

[img]http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y193/solapse/connector_plates.jpg[/img]

The colours are white/red, 2 blue/purple and on the connector plate there's a black and black/brown.