fiestaturbo.com

[Whitterz]

Where should this be heading guys? And what is its purpose.

[Whitterz]

Best if I insert the photo hey...

[Whitterz]

Think ive figured it should goto a breather pot? Could that create a problem?

Sent from my GT-I9505

[Whitterz]

If these dont make a vacuum circuit with a breather pot. Could it create a problem?

[georgiocat]

It is the vaccul line to the breather pot.Usually we want a negative pressure to the pot to assist the oil fumes scavenging from the sump.If you don't use a vacuum line,the best thing to do is tap it,since under no boost it sucks air in.When under boost the one way valve closes,but when idling or under all no boost circumstances it is open to atmosphere.It could affect idling.

[Whitterz]

Thanks buddy. I think I will get a breather pot and put it back as it should be.

Sent from my GT-I9505

[Whitterz]

Got home this evening, and started it up, Thought I'd see how it drives, so took it onto an unused road by my home as there was no one around, Car ticks over fine, as soon as you try to pull away it needs lots of revs, then just tries to die, I can here the turbo spooling up, but no power, I'm presuming its a fuel thing? Any ideas.....

[georgiocat]

I would start by tapping the hose that goes to the inlet manifold.The one that we discussed earlier,on your photo.Then I would check the vacuum line to the map sensor and map sensor wiring.Also I would check the luel feed line for obstructions,perhaps replace a fuel filter...

[Whitterz]

Thanks for your reply mate?

Are there two different rated map senors available??

Sent from my GT-I9505

[georgiocat]

Judging from your photo,you have the OFAB management,with the rectangular map sensor.Indeed,there are two different rated map sensors in the same package,one from the Fiesta RST and one from the Cossie.These are not interchangable.I mean you can't use the cossie one without a chip module on the ECU.Is by any chance,you remove the chip from the ECU?Although I think that if you do it,it won't even idle,or if it idles and press on the accelerator it turns the engine off.Also,you have the map sensor located wrong.It is essential to be horizontaly placed,this means that the hose barb on the map sensor must face downwards.It must also has a good earthing,I mean that the mounting hole with the metal ring,must be good earthed.If you have bolted on a plastic surface for example,then you must use a wire to earth the specific mounting hole.Did the engine run fine in the past?

[Whitterz]

Thanks for your advice pal. Ill be home after 5 to crack on. First frst I've had. So all advice is good. Appreciated

[georgiocat]

Ok,if you need any other help,give a shout. Is there any chance you can post some more pics from your engine bay?Also I will try to find a picture to show you the breather pot arrangement pipework from mine.Since I run the RST engine,it is the same.I have it on an Escort mk5...

[Whitterz]

Relocated the map sensor horizontally. But when running I dc it. And it didn't seem to make no difference at all.

Car is running very rich. Plugs are very black also

[Whitterz]

P.S - The idle screw does nothing at all ????

[hobomassiv]

Is the car getting to the point where it starts to boost and then cutting/holding back until it dies?

I had this problem with my Ka but nobody could offer anything useful so i stripped it and started again.

[georgiocat]

Ι wasn't waiting the position of the map sensor to change something...I believe that the correct position is this,so any trace of fuel or humid concentration,not to end in the sensor...it helps last longer...now...to your problems...if the engine runs rich,you must first of all measure the fuel pressure.You can't guess it,only way to do that,is fit a fuel pressure gauge to the hose after the fuel filter and before the injectors rail.The fuel correct pressure is between 2.5-3 bar,WITH the vacuum line attached on the regulator.Starting by this,and considering the fuel pressure is correct,you must measure the co2 content in the exhaust gases.To do that,you need an exhaust gas analyzer,or a wideband.If it is out of specs,you must set it via the CO pot.It is not nuclear science,but you can not do the above without the right equipment...If you are running out of specs,it may run lean and melt a piston...if it runs rich you pour petrol from the exhaust,bad for your pocket,the enviroment and also you can't drive your car.Regarding the idle screw,it is only used to set the base idle,there is a specific procedure to do that and the ISCV must be disconnected.All other settings during the running of the engine,are controlled by the ECU via the ISCV.

[Whitterz]

Is the car getting to the point where it starts to boost and then cutting/holding back until it dies?

I had this problem with my Ka but nobody could offer anything useful so i stripped it and started again.

This Exactly mate..... It does boost though, and the dump valve releases pal.

Ι wasn't waiting the position of the map sensor to change something...I believe that the correct position is this,so any trace of fuel or humid concentration,not to end in the sensor...it helps last longer...now...to your problems...if the engine runs rich,you must first of all measure the fuel pressure.You can't guess it,only way to do that,is fit a fuel pressure gauge to the hose after the fuel filter and before the injectors rail.The fuel correct pressure is between 2.5-3 bar,WITH the vacuum line attached on the regulator.Starting by this,and considering the fuel pressure is correct,you must measure the co2 content in the exhaust gases.To do that,you need an exhaust gas analyzer,or a wideband.If it is out of specs,you must set it via the CO pot.It is not nuclear science,but you can not do the above without the right equipment...If you are running out of specs,it may run lean and melt a piston...if it runs rich you pour petrol from the exhaust,bad for your pocket,the enviroment and also you can't drive your car.Regarding the idle screw,it is only used to set the base idle,there is a specific procedure to do that and the ISCV must be disconnected.All other settings during the running of the engine,are controlled by the ECU via the ISCV.

No mate, I meant, when the car was running, I disconnected the Map sensor, and it carried on running.

I have a fuel pressure gauge fitted, it is running 3 bar on idle, which I have read is perfect for the beige injectors. As for the exhaust gas analyzer, I have booked it into the local reputable tuning company for them to have a look.

Thanks again for your advice, its much appreciated.

My friend who has built a few turbo mk2s popped round last night, and he was really impressed with the sound of the engine, and said it cannot be much that is stopping it running right.....

[georgiocat]

Ι wasn't waiting the position of the map sensor to change something...I believe that the correct position is this,so any trace of fuel or humid concentration,not to end in the sensor...it helps last longer...now...to your problems...if the engine runs rich,you must first of all measure the fuel pressure.You can't guess it,only way to do that,is fit a fuel pressure gauge to the hose after the fuel filter and before the injectors rail.The fuel correct pressure is between 2.5-3 bar,WITH the vacuum line attached on the regulator.Starting by this,and considering the fuel pressure is correct,you must measure the co2 content in the exhaust gases.To do that,you need an exhaust gas analyzer,or a wideband.If it is out of specs,you must set it via the CO pot.It is not nuclear science,but you can not do the above without the right equipment...If you are running out of specs,it may run lean and melt a piston...if it runs rich you pour petrol from the exhaust,bad for your pocket,the enviroment and also you can't drive your car.Regarding the idle screw,it is only used to set the base idle,there is a specific procedure to do that and the ISCV must be disconnected.All other settings during the running of the engine,are controlled by the ECU via the ISCV.

No mate, I meant, when the car was running, I disconnected the Map sensor, and it carried on running.

I have a fuel pressure gauge fitted, it is running 3 bar on idle, which I have read is perfect for the beige injectors. As for the exhaust gas analyzer, I have booked it into the local reputable tuning company for them to have a look.

Thanks again for your advice, its much appreciated.

My friend who has built a few turbo mk2s popped round last night, and he was really impressed with the sound of the engine, and said it cannot be much that is stopping it running right.....

Hello m8.My bad then,I didn't understand that you did it while the engine was running.Not sure what it should do,never tried that my self...You mentioned you running the engine on beiges.What boost are you running it?Is it chipped?You can't run it on beiges without chip,well you can but it will overfuel and run rough,they inject more fuel than blues,which are what the factory installed.Also when comming on boost,it will have a flat spot and then go like you kicked it. I had a friend of mine who run it on T3 with beiges,without a chip,and he had a massive flat spot,since the T3 is also a bit bigger and has more lag.But it drunk fuel too,like having no tomorrow,if you get what I mean.So,unless you have a chip installed,your best bet is run it on blues on stock boost.Your fuel pressure is right,if you see 3 bar,you could try 2.5 just to see the difference,but I wouldn't suggest that.And assuming you run on stock boost always.Something last...I would suggest to buy and install a wideband.In that way you can have an eye on your engine running in real time,and in case something goes wrong,and let your engine run lean,you will know it asap.A good precaution,at a fraction of the cost for rebuilding your engine... I use this
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/INNOVATE-MTX-L-AFR-Wideband-Air-Fuel-Ratio-Gauge-3845-/300506017883?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item45f78df05b
It is very fast,and has datalogging too.Further that,you can set the mixture by yourself,i did it and runs sweet 3 years now...

[Whitterz]

195chip. Beige injectors and t3 buddy.

Boost I'm not totally sure of.

[georgiocat]

Ok then.It's sure that you've got a chip.Then I guess the only thing you can do is set the mixture,there are not many other things to do...

[wildheart]

My friend had this problem a few years back,Turned out to be a loose chip in the end!

[Whitterz]

As in loose superchip mate ??

[wildheart]

As in loose superchip mate ??

Yes.
Was about the last think he looked at so worth a quick look.

[Whitterz]

Checked that pal, seems all okay.

Funny though, I came to it today and it wouldnt start. I pulled the crank sensor off fully and cleaned it and put it back on *bit of a fiddle* and then it started first time. It's off to AJK motors on thursday, they specialise in this sort of thing, Hopefully it will get running right then ticks over fine..... and sometimes revs up fine.... But just doesnt like it under load.

[hobomassiv]

Our problems may not be the same but mine was running aftermarket management so it wanst a chip issue for me.

[georgiocat]

Checked that pal, seems all okay.

Funny though, I came to it today and it wouldnt start. I pulled the crank sensor off fully and cleaned it and put it back on *bit of a fiddle* and then it started first time. It's off to AJK motors on thursday, they specialise in this sort of thing, Hopefully it will get running right then ticks over fine..... and sometimes revs up fine.... But just doesnt like it under load.

Since you took it off and cleaned it,I hope you checked the plug and wiring for their state.Sometimes the plug contacts tend to oxidize and create problems.If it works fine after cleaning,I guess you are ok,just keep it in mind...due it;s position it is exposed to high temperatures and moisture and has a difficult life down there Also,if it doesn't like under load as you say,I would have a look at the fuel pump delivery under load.It can work fine under just increasing rpm,but under load it is another story.

[Whitterz]

Yes mate. The clip that holds the wire on wasnt so good mind.

There is a fat earth cable going from the metal surrounding the coil to the battery tray (earth spot. Batt in boot) what is this in aid of?

[georgiocat]

Hmmmm...not sure of what you are talking about...I guess it is an earth...to assist coils give better spark.Any chance of a photo...?

[Whitterz]

Hi mate. The lad in the garage thinks it's not running correct due to having no air flow meter???

[georgiocat]

Ehmmmmm...RST has no airflow meter,only map sensor...lol.Are you sure he knows from RST's?

[Whitterz]

Thats what I thought pal

[georgiocat]

Well...if you want my opinion...and since as I get you are in the same shoes I was a couple of years ago...I would suggest go and buy a wideband,and set it...you already have a fuel gauge,since the fuel pressure is ok,fit the wideband lamda and turn the CO pot till you see the indication on the wideband shows 14.7 at idle when the engine is warm with the fan on,and no more than 11.5 afr at full boost.This is what you need to do,ECU will handle all the other.Anything else that won't let your engine run correctly,will be shown by the instrument reading...well,this is what I did,and runs fine,without problems.I had the same problems,no one knew exactly what to do,and did practising on my car.Not a good idea,since YOU pay the bill if something goes wrong...

[Whitterz]

I think it might be a write off as far as the project goes mate. Ill get some photos up tomorrow of the rotten underside

[georgiocat]

Nooooo.... Is it in so bad state...?

[Whitterz]

I'll be down there at 830 buddy, and send some photos through.... Doesnt sound good, But i have two really good welders on stand by.....