general tuning / stength
7 posts • Page 1 of 1
general tuning / stength
hi folks, new here so go easy..
got a fairly stock rst at the moment!
my intended spec is going to be:
195 chip
kent cam
beige injectors
uprated pump
full exhaust
filter
on a healthy cvh...
In terms of the bottom end can it take all this reliably with opil changes and general servicing...
any recommendations to alow it handle 200brake easier?
Cheers
Matt.
got a fairly stock rst at the moment!
my intended spec is going to be:
195 chip
kent cam
beige injectors
uprated pump
full exhaust
filter
on a healthy cvh...
In terms of the bottom end can it take all this reliably with opil changes and general servicing...
any recommendations to alow it handle 200brake easier?
Cheers
Matt.
- mattymaxx
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Re: general tuning / stength
There is no definite answer to whether the bottom end will cope with you pushing for more power, but the rough rule is that standard bottom ends can cope with +50% power. But thats obviously okay if the engine has been looked after with regular oil changes, mileage, etc.
Before you strip your engine you could get a compression test, to make sure things are okay there. But a good inspection of the cylinder bores will tell a lot.
Before you strip your engine you could get a compression test, to make sure things are okay there. But a good inspection of the cylinder bores will tell a lot.
Greg : Owner of a FRST for 14yrs
2009 FRS2 : 377bhp ATW / 395lb/ft
1990 FRST : Sold.
2009 FRS2 : 377bhp ATW / 395lb/ft
1990 FRST : Sold.
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Re: general tuning / stength
The question if the engine can cope with + 50% or not is partially up to the mechanics and fitness of the engine.
But the other part is how has it been driven, and how will it be driven.
If you trash you car all the time, even when running warm before.. and cooling down after.. things tend to snap early, without showing any wearing marks.
Conrods can cope with 200BHP, but will give up earlier if you are hard on the clutch etc.
Above the 200BHP it's more likely they bend/break even if driven normally.
I state 200BHP .. but that's just as a manner of speech and a figure chosen from the post above (133BHP + 50% = 200BHP)
But the other part is how has it been driven, and how will it be driven.
If you trash you car all the time, even when running warm before.. and cooling down after.. things tend to snap early, without showing any wearing marks.
Conrods can cope with 200BHP, but will give up earlier if you are hard on the clutch etc.
Above the 200BHP it's more likely they bend/break even if driven normally.
I state 200BHP .. but that's just as a manner of speech and a figure chosen from the post above (133BHP + 50% = 200BHP)
*If you start to see in Black and White, you know you're pulling enough G's*
- Jur
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Re: general tuning / stength
as long as the engine has been looked after and not done a million miles you will be fine....next on your list should be a larger intercooler to make the most out of your new found power...the key to engine survival is getting it PROPERLY set up after the new parts are fitted....find a reputable tuner..(if you can...)..first off they will tell you the condition of your engine...any faults and what needs to be done next....just to add.. standard rods that i have seen bend/break were at these power levels...turbo'd...260bhp....na...180bhp...so they are not a issue for you to worry about... ARP rod bolts are always a safe bet...as i said above...its not the structual strength..(at 200bhp).. that you need to worry about its how many miles the engine will last if not set up properly...
- FRSJON
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Re: general tuning / stength
Would say a zetec lump with 100k beable to handle power the same as a new zetec lump, both with all the internals changed for new etc.. Would a specalist beable to notice signs on a block of weakness?
- 0010
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Re: general tuning / stength
anyone??
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Re: general tuning / stength
make a zvh i have a 1.6 bottom end u can have for 20 quid or 40 for the whole 1.6 zetec engine
2.1 Went BANGGGGG now a Ghia 1800
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