fiestaturbo.com

[jayrs]

PLEASE NOTE, if your keys have the red tab it means it has a chip inside for your car so must be still used for your car or at least left on the keys or the chip removed and put in the steering cowling if a different lock is to be used , but this will dis able your cars immobilizer all the time, making it easier to steal, and more than likly vold your insurance, if you have a insurance approved alarm/immobilizer fitted also your prob be alright but its at your risk and you should check with your insirance compnay.
if you have the master key (fully red key) you can have new keys cut and programmed from that.

this guide does not cover programming, just physical coding.

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right as its raining today, im bored to crap and nothing to do really I thought I would knock up another guide for something, and today’s guide is locks.

How many of you have 1 key for the ignition and another for the door, or even a different one for petrol cap?? Im guessing a fair few, and its nice to have 1 key that fits all.

Most of the time keys wear and it won’t work the lock, but the lock wears also so sometimes even with a nice new cut key it still won’t work right.
Sometimes it due to the grease going hard and working its way out and more often than not no one bothers to lube the lock so it wears faster and in the end jams up and you can even bust the metal part of the key out of the plastic part.

Rebuild kits can be bought from fords and eBay, eBay is cheaper of course, but locks can be got from the scrap yard.
i've been down there before looking for locks for peoples cars only to find there are no keys in the car :rolleyes: someone must go round and just nick them for a laugh who knows, but it doesn’t mean that lock is completely useless. :wink:
You can strip it down and get the tumblers out and if there the right ones needed, re-arrange them to suit your key code.
I would advise if this is what you plan, i.e. take locks with no keys, get a few locks some from other cars as well as the lock you take my not have enough tumbler numbers that you key needs, which will be explained further on. :)

for the guide I have taken the lock that came in the door I got for my RS, don’t have a key for it, and out of all the ford keys I have I cant find one that I can code the lock too fully :lol: due to not enough tumblers with the numbers I need but still I’ll bang one as your get the idea.

oh, :oops: the ford keys I have are not ones I’ve nicks from cars at the scrappy, most from cars I’ve scrapped and random ones I have found at the scrappy on the floor etc but enough of that, on with the guide.

for this guide today, im covering the door locks, tbh the principle is the same for the other locks when you get down to it but some lock housings differ, some have circlips etc etc but its basically all the same, but ill cover the other locks as and when I find some old ones to strip.

Right tools needed (based on the fact the lock is removed from the car already)

Small electrical screw drivers, flat head, pref not plastic ones as there $hit!
Small electrical pliers
Circlip pliers (depending on your lock)




Parts needed

Grease (wheel bearing grease will do)

Old locks, mainly for other tumbrels if needed

If a rebuild kit has been bought, you will get enough tumberls to build the lock to any key.


The basics.
The locks covered in this guide cover a vast range of fords and of course a lot of years so it can apply to escorts and what not.
Each lock will have 6 tumbrels in it, there are only 4 different tumblers though, numbered 1-4, and they will be arranged in different orders to gain different codes, each brand new lock rebuild kit will come with 4 or each tumbler, so 16 in total, that’s four, 1’s, four 2’s and so on up to number 4 and you arrange them in order to suit the code on your key still with me, good :)

Finding your code.

Its not as hard as you may think when you get down and think about it, when you look at the key it has all sorts of angles on it and chances are you haven’t a clue what they mean, as far as the code goes, now you can take your key to fords and they will tell you what the code is (at a price i would guess :lol: ), but I will explain to you how to tell what your own code is by simply looking at the key and knowing that each angle means. :)

As I said above, each lock had 6 tumblers, which could be any combination of numbers ranging from 1-4.
On your key, start from the tip end and work your way back, the angles translate into numbers depending on the steepness of the angle, the biggest angle is 4, no angle at all is 1, slight angle is 2,bit more 3

PLEASE NOTE!!!!! :oops:
Now at this point I must advise, DO NOT post any pictures of your keys up on any public forum because with this info someone could work out your code, pop down a ford garage get one cut and then basically nick your car!
If you want me to code your key for you please PM me, but with the info im posting im sure you will be more than capable to code it your self.

right get your given ford key, if you have a few pick the best one out the lot to use, no point coding a lock to a half fcuked key now, for me i have lots of old ford keys so for this guide i picks a couple of random ones, im showing pictures to prove it as im not silly enough to use the ones for my RS people :bonkers: :lol: :lol:



look at the angle and see what the code is using the info above




The strip down.



First up with all the tools to hand and some kitchen towel or bog roll, start the strip down.

Remove the clip holding the lock together, depending on age of lock etc will depend on type of clip but remove it anyway



Now remove the locking control arm and spring



This will reveal the nylon retainer, im unsure if a rebuild kit will come with this, im sure it would but take car not to destroy it if poss., if one of two lugs break off it can still be used but take care and tray not to damage it if poss.



Using the small electrical screwdrivers use one to stop the retaining ring from spinning and the other to prize the little lugs out working your way around until it is completely free and then remove it.




At this point the lock barrel can be pulled out of the lock housing.





at this point you could nip out for a fag



Remove the locking pin




Now one at a time remove the tumblers and the spacing washers and lay them out in order, you will see the very last washer (or in order as you strip its the first) is different to the rest, insure this one goes back in the right place!
Your also see that the tumblers are numbered, the order you lay them out in will revel the code for that given lock




The reason I said above start from the tip when coding your key is the fact that is the first tumbler to come out.
Now sometimes the tumblers are not numbered (rebuild kit ones should always be numbered) but don’t worry they can still be identified as to what the number for that given tumbler is.

At the top of each tumbler there is a lug, the size of them change depending on what number the tumbler is/should be, just like the angle on the key, the tumberls can be identified in the same sort of way, the smaller the lug, the smaller the number, I.E, small lug number 1 tumbler, biggest lug, number 4 tumbler, and 2 and 3 in between, your work it out, and if yours are numbered it will be as clear as day as what im trying to explain, in fact ill get a pic to explain better.



Once you have your code for your key and enough tumblers to code the lock to that key, re assemble it to the order of the required code, making sure the spacing washers are the right way up to as they came out (it differs on different locks so keep note of it) and grease it as you go.



make sure all the little grooves are inline to allow fitting of the locking pin



Before putting the nylon retaining ring back on, hold the lock together with your hand and test the key works the lock in BOTH! Directions, as you should know by now, any ford key will lock the lock but only the right one will unlock it again, so make sure everything is fine before completing the rebuild.

Once re assembled repeat the processor for the other lock/s, keep a note of the code in a safe place for future ref incase you need a new key cut.

a petrol cap lock isnt much different, this is a brand new one i got off ebay ages ago and only remembered i had it last night so built it up, i wont be showing a strip down for this as its coded to my keys :wink:




well i only rough done it last night, its not greased yet as im waiting for a brand new outer plastic case for it to go in so ill show some basics when i take it to bits to grease it


**added 4/5/09**

right to do the ignition lock, its basicly the same as above.

i got a brand new kit off ebay for my rs and built it up last night.

as i have explained how to gain the code of your key above i wont cover it again, but if you have a new kit like i did your have a selection of bits as shown below



pic out the right tumberls for the code of your key and lay them out in order with the spacers between, them, remember, you must build the lock from the tip of the key back, so what ever the number of tumberler needed for the tip goes in first and so on



the curved spacer is the very last spacer to be fitted




put all the tumberlers in the lock and grease them as you go and put the little lock bar in the side, i havent done pics of these as its the same as door locks above

the end part is in 2 bits



slot the small bit into the top part of lock, check operation to make sure the key will put in from the side shown below



bung it on the top of the inner lock barrle



slide this into the housing, it will basicly go one way your see



put the circlip in



make sure the lugs on the circlip locate in the gap



using circlip plyers, open this retaining ring up and slide down over the tip and locate in place



thats the lock built

to remove the old lock, put your key in and turn to position 1, on the top your find a pin, push this down and the lock should clip out, or you may need to wiggle the key about and pull a little gbut it will come out






before you can fit to the car you will need to remove the lower part of the steering coweling on the coloum, take the top bit off if it makes it easier too.

take the lock out



put your new (or old key of your using it still) into the new lock, turn to position 1 and put back in the steering lock



if it wont go, the mech in the steering lock may of rotated a bit, just turn it back round a little to match up the grooves to make the lock clip back in, your see what i mean when you look in there





find your given car with a key, belive it or not a vast range of fords use the same one as the fez, such as the escort/orion, and even some of the tranists use the same!






Hope this guide is helpful to someone, will do a boot lock when I find one.

[FRSJON]

nice guide jay ..but ..s**t..youve been bored!!...

[jayrs]

i have mate, was gunna be doing things today but it rained so been stuck in so thought fcuk it ill write a guide out, doing the guide took me no time at all, waiting for this bag of $hit pc took ages, and i mean ages, just to get pic's uploaded to photobucket and the guide put on the site (as i saved it in word) took me over a hour, dunno whats going on with this computer at the mo, gotta be something to do with service pack 3 i reckon, still, when i get round to getting a new computer ill do a giude on how to destroy a pc completely in 10 seconds

[FRSJON]

..as i said though a good guide.......clever stuff...

[jayrs]

might be usfull for someone i guess

[knuckles]

yea like a car thief

[jayrs]

if someone wanted to kick ya car there not gunna go to the hassle of all this when they can put a windown in

[Robbo_503]

cheers for the guide mate think it could b useful cos im not quite sure wot to do about the locks on my car iv got a few problems lol
first when i bought the car last year the driver door lock broke within a few weeks i.e key wont turn to unlock
i just used the passenger door tho but now its broken as well, same problem but deteriorated gradually i.e worked if u jiggled the key for long enough, at this point im entering the car by pulling a string after opening the boot lol
i then lost the red master key, so got another one from cut from ford, which still needs to be programmed for the immobiliser, however this wont turn the ignition and the ford guy says the ignition must be worn but the old key works fine
so i was wondering if the locks and ignition etc will be fixable by changing the tumblers cos theyre worn? or if i need to build new door locks, and if theres anyway of coding a key to the immobiliser on the cheap? as ford want an hours labour for it.
Also if u use locks out the scrap yard do they not tend to be quite worn already?
if i get one repair kit from ford there will be enough tumblers to do 2 locks (based on the code of my key) but the ignition rebuild kit is £15 whereas the door one is £30 so could i just buy 2 ignition repair kits n use the tumblers rather than buying the door kits? i was going to buy a full new lock kit from ford for £50 ie new keys locks ignition etc but he said he made a mistake and its no longer available :(
sorry for all the questions lol but any help would be appreciated

[jayrs]

yeah sounds like the tumblers in the igniton are worn out too, or the key has been cut wrong.

if your after new lock sets to get tumblers pm tompeteRS, i know he has a few passanger side ones, but if all you qwant is tumblers then there be fine.

im not sure if there the same in the igniton or not, ive not got round to doing igniton yet, im buying a kit off ebay when i get paid.

as for programming the chip on the cheap, i dont think your get it done like that, as far as i know fords are the only place that can do it

[jayrs]

updated today with the ignition lock added.

for some reason the BBcode is off which wont show the pics and im unable to get it back on, so have inlisted the asistance of a mod to do it so pics should be back up soon

[Minstral]

just reading this would love it if 1of the mods could sort the problem out.does sound to complicated would like to give it ago

[jayrs]

he did last night, but i edited it again to change a pic and they went again.
have pm'ed mod again asking to sort it.
its the BB code, its off, and needs to be on but i cant change it

[Curtis]

hate to bump an old topic, but a useful one nonetheless.

anyway, i can't even get past the first stage >.<

http://img850.imageshack.us/img850/6051 ... 351565.jpg

Thats what the retaining clip looks like on my lock, any idea how to open it up?

[jayrs]

yeah its a circluip mate, your need a set of circlip plyers, cheap as chips on ebay and in halfords

you can get them off with plyers or a screw driver, but circlip plyers is far easier

[Curtis]

me again ^_^ is there a knack to getting the nylon clip off? mine wont budge at all, i can't get behind it without risk of breaking

[jayrs]

tiny electrical screw drivers mate, expect one of the tabs to break at least, even if a couple broke it shouldnt be a problem, but there a bit of a nightmare to get off, but then again, they wasn't designed to go on, and come off again for re use

[russ-RST]

Great guide mate ! My drivers door lock has gone stiff and bent 2 of my keys and made my master key spin in the plastic bit -.- I can get my door open with a key iv had cut but I have to jiggle it to work and I look like a fool! Lol could this just be that it needs re greasing? If so do I have to pull all the tumblers out as I'm not great at fiddly bits and knowing me il loose them lol can I not pull out the locking pin smithereens in grease then work it in with the key and repeat till smooth?? And I haven't got a clue how to remove the lock will it be obvious to me when I gave a look?

[jayrs]

alright mate.
you could try some wd40 or oil like it in the lock, but tbh it sounds like its worn to me.

removing the lock is dead easy, the haynes explains how to do it though.
follow my guide to stripping and rebuilding and your be alright, although your need new tumberlers really mate.
have a look on ebay for rebuild kits.

also, it does sound like the keys are a tad worn, but you say you had a new one cut and your still getting problems, so 100% your locks worn fella

[russ-RST]

[quote="jayrs"]alright mate.
you could try some wd40 or oil like it in the lock, but tbh it sounds like its worn to me.

removing the lock is dead easy, the haynes explains how to do it though.
follow my guide to stripping and rebuilding and your be alright, although your need new tumberlers really mate.
have a look on ebay for rebuild kits.

also, it does sound like the keys are a tad worn, but you say you had a new one cut and your still getting problems, so 100% your locks worn fella[/quote]

Ok mate nice one so il get a load of locks from the scrappy and use them to rebuild it following your guide above? Iv only gone through my masterkey which just spins in the plastic handle now and I got a cheap one cut after that and it bent real quick so got a new 1 cut and it's alot better but still have to jiggle it and look like I'm having a bash on someone's door handle LOL

[jayrs]

if you do get scrap yard locks bear in mind that they could be worn, new stuff would be best if poss

[russ-RST]

Ah yes true I see your point lol jumped ahead of myself there lol thanks mate :)

[jayrs]

im not saying they will be, ive rebuilt a couple of locks with s/h parts before, although i have stripped a fair few s/h locks to find there proper fcuked

[russ-RST]

Well I ain't spending £50 on a repair kit to fix it fcuk that! Il just get a shed load from the scrappy, are locks from any ford ok to use as there's no mk3's at my local :(

[jayrs]

£50, ive seen them for less than £20 on ebay.

provided the car uses the same key you can use the tumblers from it, but stick with the casing from your own lock as these can differ between models

[russ-RST]

Lol ok mate will do il let you know how it goes no doubt this guide will be a blessing for me :)

[jayrs]

okie dokie.
if you get stuck pm me mate, i wont be online much this week though so a reply will come but not right away

[L98 LET]

Great guide mate, may have a go myself, as I have a spare lock set I could have a fiddle with.
Have you done a boot lock aswell mate?

[jayrs]

Cheers fella.
Yeah, although not fitting a lock, I'm sure I built one up incase I ever wanted a tail gate lock refitted

[Sean-f]

Hi,
I found your guide after a google search and have signed up to the forum to thank you I have no mechanical skill to talk of but with your guide I have built a new barrel and fitted it to my MK3 RS1800.

Thank you for taking the time to make such a guide available.

Sean-f

[jayrs]

No worries mate, glad to see my guide is still helping people

[Pally_K]

Hi

I was wondering if you can help me.

My fuel cap lock is sticking so I have managed to remove it. However I am stuck as to how to remove the cyclinder from the barrel.

Regards


Pally

[jayrs]

Hello mate.
I'm
Assuming you have the complete lock out of the plastic cap yeah?
If so, you will find the stables plate on the face of the lock is crimped into the body,
That holes it all together,
Your need to uncrimp it to get it apart, or buy a whole new lock and rebuild the new one.

I built a petrol cap lock only last weekend, I should of got more pictures, but didn't give it a thought as this thread was out up some time ago

[Pally_K]

Thank you for getting back to me.

That is right: the lock has been taken out of the plastic housing. I have tried to attach a picture of it and, if it works, you will see that I have managed to take off the silver clip and the black plastic part.

I did notice that 4 edges of the face of the lock are crimped but was hoping that there was another way of removing the cylinder. So, if I uncrimp the 4 edges, should the cylinder simply come out? And when putting back together, is it simply crimping the edges again or is this not possible?

You mention about buying a new one. Any stores/online shops you would recommend to get best value for money but still genuine?

Regards


Pally

[attachment=0]20161009_115516.jpg[/attachment]

[attachment=1]20161009_115555.jpg[/attachment]

[jayrs]

Hello mate.
That lock is different to the ones I've rebuilt, but it just looks to me that you need to get the plate off the end where the key goes, and the rest will come out after.

As for new, search eBay mate, that's the best bet

[merklover]

Hiya , I know this guide is an old post but, like me, there may well be people viewing it for the first time who may be interested in a guy who sells on ebay . HE HAS A SHED LOAD OF BRAND NEW LOCKS AND SETS FOR OLD FORDS. including TX locks, Chubb and Tibbe . I've just had a boot lock off him for my RS Turbo, brand new and complete for £30. He will re code locks and also sells genuine Ford keys PRE CUT TO CODE . This is the item id that i found him on .....Brand New (not refurbished ) Escort Mk4 Boot lock and key .(Item ID: 222769101310)........ his user name is southamptonoldsoldier. I hope this helps someone out, he seems a useful guy to know.