fiestaturbo.com

[jayrs]

This guide is for cleaning the ISCV found on a xr2i and frst, although it’s the same for the remote ones on the escorts and is even the same for the ones on the zetecs.

Tools needed

Torx bits
Philips screw driver that fits the screws right
Flat head screw driver
Small paint brush
Cotton buds
Rag


Parts needs

New gasket/gasket paper to make one (maybe)
Copper grease
WD40
Carb cleaner


First off the location of the ISCV
on the FRST and XR2i's (cvh) it is mounted on the side of the inlet manifold, on early cvh XR2i's the remote one was mounted on the side of the sir box, but im not talking about that on in this guide.
On zetec engines the ISCV is located on the front of the inlet manifold below the throttle body.







first off, if you having idling problems this can be caused buy a gummed up ISCV, the oil vapors build up and make it stick etc, but also, sometimes a dry connection can cause problems, my mates have taken the pi$$ out of me before about this, but I give plugs etc a dab of WD40 and sometimes it sorts the problem, so to them jog on

The iscv is held on with these 4 Torx screw (zetec has 3 and are norm 7mm headed bolts)



Right, unplug the iscv, remove the bolts holding it on, they are Torx drive so make sure you get the right size bit for them.
Some will be tight, very tight and some might round, if they do, the only way round it is to cut the slot along the head with a saw or drimmel and use a flat head screwdriver.
Anyhow, once removed you have the ISCV in ya hand




If you have a remote one as found on the escorts it will look like this, and your need to remove it from the mounting plate and remove the back which is the part that makes it remote





Clean this remote part out with some cleaner then follow the rest of guide for the ISCV it self.



you can use thinners, or petrol to clean the iscv out, but carb cleaner is in a spray can and the pressure blast some of the cr@p out too so imo its the best stuff



I norm spray some into a small container you use with the cotton buds and brush



Before you spray any into the container split the valve from the solenoid



Don’t lose this small seal



Starting with the solenoid
The top part will be dirty, the one im using in the guide isn’t that old so it’s not really that dirty but your see the cr@p on yours.
I use a bit of cleaner on a rag and wipe the dirt off the end



that is all that needs doing really, if its really bad a bit of cleaner on a cotton but worked down the hole a couple of time will be enough to clean it.
at this point you could take the solenoid only and plug it back in and turn the ignition on, the solenoid should move (down the hole) that means its working, if it doesn’t, your problem could be a dead solenoid but its not really that common for them to die completely

Moving on to the valve it self, the far hole with the spring is the valve it self, pictures don’t show it very well but your see it on yours

Valve shut



Valve open



To open the valve you have to push on the rod at the end



Using the cotton buds and the brush clean the insides outs, rotate the rod to spin the whole valve and clean all round, also push the rod in to open the valve and clean the face of the valve and the valve seat, again rotate the rod to make sure the whole valve face is clean
The cotton buds will get dirty very quick so bin them and keep using fresh ones






Also clean down the sides of the rod too



Also clean out the intake pipe too with some cotton buds


At this point most of the stubborn stuff should be loose or removed so it can be blasted out with carb cleaner.

don’t hold it to close to ya eyes as it will come out with force and don’t wear your best t-shirt





You best off doing this outside too BTW
keep blasting till it comes out clear, you know when its clean as it wont be a manky black it will be the light brown color inside (rod and valve etc)

Really a new gasket should be fitted, but sometimes the old one can be reused, just give it a wipe with some cleaner to clean off the oil muck.


When you come to put it back together, a small wipe of copper grease on the threads of the bolts wont do any harm, it should make it a little easier next time you have to clean it out

Once it’s back together, if the mating face is a little dirty, a bit of cleaner on a rag and wipes it over, give the connections a little dab of WD40 or electrical contact grease if you got some, just to rule out dry connection problems

Refit to the car and away you go, make sure the insides have dried out, should take long and petrol, thinners or the carb cleaner evaporate fairly quickly.

If your car idles bad for a little while give it time, it will settle.


The one I took pictures off in this guide isn’t that old and wasn’t used on the car for long, so its fairy clean anyway but you get the idea for the cleaning anyway

Hope the guide helps

[TerryTurbs]

awesome bro

[Brammer]

Great guide Jay i will do mine next week as she's idling a little funny at the moment.

[jayrs]

glad ya have found it helpfully guys

[knuckles]

i certainly found this helpful over the phone

[jayrs]

was that the call that cost ME £21

[knuckles]

no...

i was fitting the petrol filler pipe into the fuel tank when you called then. Never again

[jayrs]

[AW3K]

any one any idea why my ISCV is mounted on the bulkhead and not the side of the inlet?

Andy

[jayrs]

yours is a remote one mate.
if you can change to the one on the side of the inlet by changing the top part of inlet.
i take it you have EFI set up?

[AW3K]

yeah its a h reg 2i



is there any advantages of changing it?

Andy

[jayrs]

erm, tbh i cant honetly say as ive never had to do it, but i guess it must have some benift as ford placed it on the side of the inlet in the end

[TANKRS]

very helpfull done mine tonight it was full of crap

[jayrs]

glad it was helpful for ya mate.

[Maff Si]

Here's my guide to cleaning the ISCV on your Zetec Si, 16v 2i, RS1800 etc

post738119/#p738119

[jayrs]

no different to this guide apart from its not as detailed.
and theres a couple of mistakes in it, you dont need to renew the o ring just if petrol or carb cleaner gets on it, and you dont need to "oil it up" after cleaning

[Maff Si]

[quote="jayrs"]you dont need to renew the o ring just if petrol or carb cleaner gets on it, and you dont need to "oil it up" after cleaning[/quote]

^ Blame project, they were his suggestions ^

I posted the link more for the valve removal procedure on the Zetecs cos it's a pain in the ass!

[jayrs]

fully agree there, it is a pain on zetecs :lol:

[russ-RST]

nice guide mate very helpfull even tho i have a hcs atm :( it cant be too different tho aye :) il be doing this later on :) thanks russ

[MB7201]

A hcs doesn't have one, it just has a plunger controlling idle.

[jayrs]

cheers dude
as said above, the HSC had a solenoid that pushes a linkage so its different to what the efi ones have

[AR-FRST]

Excellent guide I will be using it tomorrow. Seems easy enough even for a beginner.

Can foam alloy wheel cleaner also work?

Tthank

[jayrs]

No worries mate glad it can help you.

Never used alloy wheel cleaner for anything other than wheels, I know some have a mild acid in it, so prob best to avoid it I would say

[AR-FRST]

[quote="jayrs"]No worries mate glad it can help you.

Never used alloy wheel cleaner for anything other than wheels, I know some have a mild acid in it, so prob best to avoid it I would say[/quote]

Will do. :-)