heeman's AP paddle clutch manual adjust pedal mod guide
35 posts • Page 1 of 1
heeman's AP paddle clutch manual adjust pedal mod guide
by heeman10 on Tue Mar 28, 2006 7:38 pm
DaveRom has posted a similar guide, but I did mine differently, and, I think, it's a better way of doing it. My opinion, you now have two guides to choose from though! His has more pretty pictures 
Background: When fitting the AP 4 paddle clutch, the company recommend you carry out this modification. The standard auto-adjust pedal's ratchet system can't take the additional pressure of the high-pressure clutch cover used with the paddle clutch, and they give up as mine did. Basically, your gears will become hard to engage, then your pedal will go to the floor and you'll have no clutch at all, so do this modification!
Parts: You need the Ford Fiesta manually adjustable clutch pedal, and you might as well get a new quadrant, though it's not really necessary as far as I can see. EDIT: The quadrant is the most important part of this conversion! The Escort quadrant is a larger radius, and therefore gives more cable retraction. Do not miss this step out or you will/may not achieve full release of the clutch! You might as well replace the clutch cable while you're down there too, same goes for the two bushes that sit in the pedal, pics to follow.
Some FINIS codes (may be out of date, Andy.B will kindly check them shortly):
Clutch pedal = 7304014 (£25.52 as of July 2006)
Pawl/quadrant = 7346848 (£2.32 as of July 2006)
Rod assembly/clutch rel. = 7304020 (£2.71 as of July 2006)
Screw special = 7304012 (£1.77 as of July 2006)
And here's a Microcat screenshot donated to the guide:
Tools required: 13mm spanner (ratchet spanner saves hassle), and long nosed pliers.
Method: Having spoken to at least two other guys who did this, they chose to remove the dash and pedal box in their entirity to help access. As I had to perform the mod with limited space and time, I chose to leave both in position. At least one removed the steering column too, something else I left in position also.
1. Remove the driver's seat (4x10mm bolts).
2. Unhook the clutch cable at the gearbox end using needle nose pliers.
3. Lie on your back in the car, and get your head under the dash. Pull off the black plastic heater hose that comes out from the centre of the dash and across to the driver's side heater vent.
4. Use the pliers to flick the clutch cable nose off the black plastic quadrant. This is one of the more fiddly operations. The pic below shows the heater hose mentioned in Step 3, and the cable nose mentioned in Step 4:
5. Use the pliers again to flick off the spring clip on the end of the shaft nearest the clutch pedal.
6. Now the clutch cable is free of the pedal, go back round to the front of the car (jack it up and place on axle stands) and pull the cable out of the bulkead from the engine bay.
7. Undo the two 13mm nuts that hold the clutch cable bracket to the rest of the pedal box. The pic below shows this bracket. The 13mm nuts fasten onto the ends of the two studs shown. The clutch cable is withdrawn from the bulkhead in Step 6 to free it from the back of the bracket, so the bracket can now be removed. This bracket slides over the end of the shaft, and can be removed once the nuts and spring clip are removed in Steps 5 and 6. If this operation is difficult, it may help to loosen off the two 13mm nuts at the roof of the footwell which secure the pedal box to the car (they sit in slotted sliders) and the two 13mm nuts on the bulkead in the engine bay, to the right of the header tank. These two nuts sit one above the other, about 20cm apart, and can be a bit tricky to get to. Loosening these four nuts in total will give a bit of freedom of movement should it be needed.
8. With the bracket off (can be a bit fiddly), the clutch pedal will now slide off. If you have new bushes and quadrant, fit these to the manual pedal, and slide the new pedal onto the shaft. (The spring and ratchet clicker from the auto pedal aren't required) The pic below shows the standard quadrant, standard pedal, manual adjust pedal (many thanks to Scort for making one for me, but the Ford part should be the same I believe) and my fabricated aluminium quadrant (again, big thanks to Scort, though it couldn't be used in the end, and isn't actually required...hmmm.. ):
9. Replace the clutch pedal bracket, nuts and clip. I cheated and tapped one of the studs out of the bracket with a hammer to make the job easier.
10. Re-introduce the clutch cable (or fit new cable) through the bulkhead.
11. Fit the cable nose to the quadrant (gearbox end of the cable left off for this).
12. Fit the gearbox end of the cable. You may find you need to play with the position of the gearbox lever arm by removing the pinch bolt and trying to lever on different splines. Adjusting the clutch pedal is a play-off between the gearbox lever arm position and the adjustability via the adjusting bolt on the front of the clutch pedal.
13. Replace gearbox lever arm pinch bolt, and have a feel of the pedal. Screw the adjusting bolt in and out depending on the amount of travel required, and make sure the locking nut is done up tightly to prevent the pedal position adjusting itself while on the move.
14. Replace the heater hose under the dash. Probably THE fiddliest part of the operation. I still haven't got mine back on!
I think that's everything. The Ford part number for the pedal will hopefully be in this thread shortly. Do NOT order the pedal suggested by AP on their website, as that is an Escort pedal and doesn't fit the Fiesta properly.
Hopefully I haven't left any details out and this guide will help some people! Come back and let me know if there are any problems, though I think only about two people a year carry out this modification. Good luck
heeman10 and Andy.B, educating the FT masses*
*That's "masses", not "massive", before all you widebois out there start bigging yourselves up because someone said massive!
Background: When fitting the AP 4 paddle clutch, the company recommend you carry out this modification. The standard auto-adjust pedal's ratchet system can't take the additional pressure of the high-pressure clutch cover used with the paddle clutch, and they give up as mine did. Basically, your gears will become hard to engage, then your pedal will go to the floor and you'll have no clutch at all, so do this modification!
Parts: You need the Ford Fiesta manually adjustable clutch pedal, and you might as well get a new quadrant, though it's not really necessary as far as I can see. EDIT: The quadrant is the most important part of this conversion! The Escort quadrant is a larger radius, and therefore gives more cable retraction. Do not miss this step out or you will/may not achieve full release of the clutch! You might as well replace the clutch cable while you're down there too, same goes for the two bushes that sit in the pedal, pics to follow.
Some FINIS codes (may be out of date, Andy.B will kindly check them shortly):
Clutch pedal = 7304014 (£25.52 as of July 2006)
Pawl/quadrant = 7346848 (£2.32 as of July 2006)
Rod assembly/clutch rel. = 7304020 (£2.71 as of July 2006)
Screw special = 7304012 (£1.77 as of July 2006)
And here's a Microcat screenshot donated to the guide:
Tools required: 13mm spanner (ratchet spanner saves hassle), and long nosed pliers.
Method: Having spoken to at least two other guys who did this, they chose to remove the dash and pedal box in their entirity to help access. As I had to perform the mod with limited space and time, I chose to leave both in position. At least one removed the steering column too, something else I left in position also.
1. Remove the driver's seat (4x10mm bolts).
2. Unhook the clutch cable at the gearbox end using needle nose pliers.
3. Lie on your back in the car, and get your head under the dash. Pull off the black plastic heater hose that comes out from the centre of the dash and across to the driver's side heater vent.
4. Use the pliers to flick the clutch cable nose off the black plastic quadrant. This is one of the more fiddly operations. The pic below shows the heater hose mentioned in Step 3, and the cable nose mentioned in Step 4:
5. Use the pliers again to flick off the spring clip on the end of the shaft nearest the clutch pedal.
6. Now the clutch cable is free of the pedal, go back round to the front of the car (jack it up and place on axle stands) and pull the cable out of the bulkead from the engine bay.
7. Undo the two 13mm nuts that hold the clutch cable bracket to the rest of the pedal box. The pic below shows this bracket. The 13mm nuts fasten onto the ends of the two studs shown. The clutch cable is withdrawn from the bulkhead in Step 6 to free it from the back of the bracket, so the bracket can now be removed. This bracket slides over the end of the shaft, and can be removed once the nuts and spring clip are removed in Steps 5 and 6. If this operation is difficult, it may help to loosen off the two 13mm nuts at the roof of the footwell which secure the pedal box to the car (they sit in slotted sliders) and the two 13mm nuts on the bulkead in the engine bay, to the right of the header tank. These two nuts sit one above the other, about 20cm apart, and can be a bit tricky to get to. Loosening these four nuts in total will give a bit of freedom of movement should it be needed.
8. With the bracket off (can be a bit fiddly), the clutch pedal will now slide off. If you have new bushes and quadrant, fit these to the manual pedal, and slide the new pedal onto the shaft. (The spring and ratchet clicker from the auto pedal aren't required) The pic below shows the standard quadrant, standard pedal, manual adjust pedal (many thanks to Scort for making one for me, but the Ford part should be the same I believe) and my fabricated aluminium quadrant (again, big thanks to Scort, though it couldn't be used in the end, and isn't actually required...hmmm.. ):
9. Replace the clutch pedal bracket, nuts and clip. I cheated and tapped one of the studs out of the bracket with a hammer to make the job easier.
10. Re-introduce the clutch cable (or fit new cable) through the bulkhead.
11. Fit the cable nose to the quadrant (gearbox end of the cable left off for this).
12. Fit the gearbox end of the cable. You may find you need to play with the position of the gearbox lever arm by removing the pinch bolt and trying to lever on different splines. Adjusting the clutch pedal is a play-off between the gearbox lever arm position and the adjustability via the adjusting bolt on the front of the clutch pedal.
13. Replace gearbox lever arm pinch bolt, and have a feel of the pedal. Screw the adjusting bolt in and out depending on the amount of travel required, and make sure the locking nut is done up tightly to prevent the pedal position adjusting itself while on the move.
14. Replace the heater hose under the dash. Probably THE fiddliest part of the operation. I still haven't got mine back on!
I think that's everything. The Ford part number for the pedal will hopefully be in this thread shortly. Do NOT order the pedal suggested by AP on their website, as that is an Escort pedal and doesn't fit the Fiesta properly.
Hopefully I haven't left any details out and this guide will help some people! Come back and let me know if there are any problems, though I think only about two people a year carry out this modification. Good luck
heeman10 and Andy.B, educating the FT masses*
*That's "masses", not "massive", before all you widebois out there start bigging yourselves up because someone said massive!
Last edited by heeman10 on Thu Dec 21, 2006 5:11 pm, edited 4 times in total.
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by Andy.B on Tue Mar 28, 2006 7:53 pm
Yes will be doing this soon as said on MSN. Better go get the new clutch pedal as the one i have is not the right one... So your saying that my clutch pedal and mk5 quadrent isnt needed??? or can i still use the modified quadrent and the fiesta manual adjustable clutch pedal???
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by heeman10 on Tue Mar 28, 2006 9:02 pm
Yeah, you need the Fiesta pedal, the Escort one just isn't any use. The left hand kink places the pedal pad just millimetres clear of the centre console, as DaveRom found out. It's likely the Escort quadrant will work with the Fiesta pedal, bit of a gamble you could probably take. The modification to the Escort quadrant turns it into a 180-degree semicircle doesn't it? So it should be the same as the Fiesta one afterwards 
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by xrsi on Tue Mar 28, 2006 10:45 pm
really really really do still think that the way i have done it is alot easier and less time consuming.
all i did was get the complete pedal box from a fiesta clasic and simply swap the two over, dont need to remove anything apart from the 4 bolts that hold it in to the car! dont have to play with bushes or removing other bits and you know that its all in correctly and right.... plus i bet an arm and a leg that mine was alot cheaper!
edited
out of interest tho, why do you not need the auto adjust paw?
all i did was get the complete pedal box from a fiesta clasic and simply swap the two over, dont need to remove anything apart from the 4 bolts that hold it in to the car! dont have to play with bushes or removing other bits and you know that its all in correctly and right.... plus i bet an arm and a leg that mine was alot cheaper!
edited
out of interest tho, why do you not need the auto adjust paw?
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by heeman10 on Tue Mar 28, 2006 11:01 pm
James - How can that be easier? Either way, the clutch cable has to be disconnected. You would also need to disconnect the throttle cable and brake pedal, whereas the way I did it I just had to remove the clutch pedal. You had to remove the whole box, where I just slid the new pedal on. So all I had to remove was a pedal, look how much you had to do! I don't know what "don't have to play with bushes" is about, sorry 
My job cost me the price of a pedal, modified by Scort. £10-£15 for the pedal. Sorry, don't really see what you're getting at, and cannot agree that removing two pedal boxes and installing a new one is faster and/or easier than what I did!
The auto adjust pawl/ratchet system is no longer required, as the pedal is now manually adjusted.
My job cost me the price of a pedal, modified by Scort. £10-£15 for the pedal. Sorry, don't really see what you're getting at, and cannot agree that removing two pedal boxes and installing a new one is faster and/or easier than what I did!
The auto adjust pawl/ratchet system is no longer required, as the pedal is now manually adjusted.
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by p4blo on Tue Mar 28, 2006 11:08 pm
Nice guide sir
You're right about that damn heater pipe, still cant get mine on after having it off to change the clutch cable. Needless to say it involved a heater of sorts, some long pieces of wood and a lot of swearing, but it still refuses to go back on
You're right about that damn heater pipe, still cant get mine on after having it off to change the clutch cable. Needless to say it involved a heater of sorts, some long pieces of wood and a lot of swearing, but it still refuses to go back on
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by mike_wall15 on Tue Mar 28, 2006 11:19 pm
Looks a good guide Jim-lad! In fact, it looks so simple I'm almost tempted to go outside and change mine ...
....nah, think I'll leave it!
Plus, more of a Hydraulic Clutch person now
.......nah, think I'll leave it!
Plus, more of a Hydraulic Clutch person now
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by heeman10 on Tue Mar 28, 2006 11:20 pm
p4blo - Can I borrow your bits of wood and try them on mine?
Wall - I hope you spring a leak
Wall - I hope you spring a leak
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by xrsi on Tue Mar 28, 2006 11:24 pm
its easier cos i was going to get the bits from ford so have dismantled the pedal box in the car and its a complete ball ache compaired to undoing the 4 bolts, uncliping the clip off the brake pedal and undoing the 2 cables. i timed myself taking the one off from scrap yard and refitting and it took less time than for me to dismantle the pedal to fit the new bits as it is soo fiddle and generally a right pain to do in situe.
oh yeah, thought you meant that you have removed the paw for the manual adjust and read it wrong. By palying around with bushes, the plasitc bush that the pedal slides through is the bush and they are a pain to get in and stay in if they come out at all (well they were on mine!)
the whole pedal box didnt cost me £10, as for time and ease just one of those things tho mate, everyone finds somethings easier or quicker....
oh yeah, thought you meant that you have removed the paw for the manual adjust and read it wrong. By palying around with bushes, the plasitc bush that the pedal slides through is the bush and they are a pain to get in and stay in if they come out at all (well they were on mine!)
the whole pedal box didnt cost me £10, as for time and ease just one of those things tho mate, everyone finds somethings easier or quicker....
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by mike_wall15 on Tue Mar 28, 2006 11:24 pm
heeman10 :Wall - I hope you spring a leak
Within the next 6 months yes!
6 months and 1 day....
Joys of a warranty
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by Excursion on Tue Mar 28, 2006 11:27 pm
Excellent guide Heeman10
I've just been out to try this on my Mk5, and I got stuck after all the liquid stuff came out when I removed the pedal. WHAT DOES IT ALL MEAN?
Can we have a guide?
I've just been out to try this on my Mk5, and I got stuck after all the liquid stuff came out when I removed the pedal. WHAT DOES IT ALL MEAN?
Can we have a guide?
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by heeman10 on Tue Mar 28, 2006 11:30 pm
You disturbed the PINIS reservoir! Replace it immediately and rotate the grublocking screw four semi-rotations anti-counterclockwise at once!! Disconnect the battery after each semi-rotation, and re-connect after each full rotation. WEAR EYE PROTECTION.
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by mike_wall15 on Tue Mar 28, 2006 11:31 pm
Mark - Think you need to put a bucket underneath to catch it all, then when it's all changed put it into the brake reservoir under the hood
HTH, Mike
HTH, Mike
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by heeman10 on Wed Mar 29, 2006 1:32 pm
xrsi :its easier cos i was going to get the bits from ford so have dismantled the pedal box in the car and its a complete ball ache compaired to undoing the 4 bolts, uncliping the clip off the brake pedal and undoing the 2 cables. i timed myself taking the one off from scrap yard and refitting and it took less time than for me to dismantle the pedal to fit the new bits as it is soo fiddle and generally a right pain to do in situe.
oh yeah, thought you meant that you have removed the paw for the manual adjust and read it wrong. By palying around with bushes, the plasitc bush that the pedal slides through is the bush and they are a pain to get in and stay in if they come out at all (well they were on mine!)
the whole pedal box didnt cost me £10, as for time and ease just one of those things tho mate, everyone finds somethings easier or quicker....
Sorry, I'm just going to have to agree to disagree with you, my way's easier and faster
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Re: heeman's AP paddle clutch manual adjust pedal mod guide
by heeman10 on Wed Mar 29, 2006 5:43 pm
John_D :hi, sorry for being a total tit but what does this mod do?
heeman10 :Background: When fitting the AP 4 paddle clutch, the company recommend you carry out this modification. The standard auto-adjust pedal's ratchet system can't take the additional pressure of the high-pressure clutch cover used with the paddle clutch, and they give up as mine did. Basically, your gears will become hard to engage, then your pedal will go to the floor and you'll have no clutch at all, so do this modification!
This mod replaces the standard auto adjust clutch pedal found on most Mk3s with the later manual adjust pedal, which does away with the weak ratchet system, and allows you to manually adjust the height of the pedal.
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by heeman10 on Thu Apr 06, 2006 2:29 am
Scort :Nice one mate!
Glad it all worked out ok.
Steve
Yeah, thanks a lot for your hard, and very fast work sorting out my manual adjust pedal and the ally quadrant. So sorry I couldn't make use of that in the end
Very kind of you, I WILL find some way of paying you back for all this goodness you baxtered!!! James .:. 193bhp/245lbft Zetec Turbo Mk3. Click sig for conversion thread + videos .:.
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by jdfiesta on Mon Jul 03, 2006 12:39 pm
just been and ordered the bits to do this conversion
ordered the following
7021871 - Bush X2 0.78
7346848 - Pawl Quadrant 2.32
7304014 - Pedal Clutch 25.52
7304020 - Rod Assy 2.71
7304012 - Screw Special 1.77
. Total:£33.10 +vat
JJ
ordered the following
7021871 - Bush X2 0.78
7346848 - Pawl Quadrant 2.32
7304014 - Pedal Clutch 25.52
7304020 - Rod Assy 2.71
7304012 - Screw Special 1.77
. Total:£33.10 +vat
JJ
My ebay stuff http://shop.ebay.co.uk/merchant/2.0zetec
Is that the best you can do?
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Is that the best you can do?
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by rich_frst on Mon Jul 17, 2006 11:29 am
nice guide homey!!!!
will the pedal 'assembly' (if you like) be correct from the mk 3.5 fiesta lx that i'm breaking?? could pince it out of that....??
rich
will the pedal 'assembly' (if you like) be correct from the mk 3.5 fiesta lx that i'm breaking?? could pince it out of that....??
rich
My ProjectS..
viewtopic.php?t=97195&start=0
FORD SPARES - ENGINES-PANELS-TRIM ESCORT/FIESTA/SIERRA ETC RS/COSWORTH/XR
rich
07834862431
viewtopic.php?t=97195&start=0
FORD SPARES - ENGINES-PANELS-TRIM ESCORT/FIESTA/SIERRA ETC RS/COSWORTH/XR
rich
07834862431
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by blackierst on Wed Aug 09, 2006 11:45 pm
arse burtons have sent me the escort pedal... grrrrrr
Finis code 1029012
Finis code 1029012
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by blackierst on Wed Aug 23, 2006 2:01 pm
Dunno if this is anygood to anyone but just got all the parts through from ford so have taken a few pictures to help you when you come to buy them (mke sure they give you right bits lol)
7304014
.JPG)
7346848
.JPG)
7304020
.JPG)
7304012
.JPG)
7021871
.JPG)
7304014
7346848
7304020
7304012
7021871
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by blackierst on Sun Aug 27, 2006 1:43 pm
just thought id add this link so people can see what it looks like when you use all of the ford parts
http://www.fiestaturbo.com/forums/viewt ... p?t=137595
http://www.fiestaturbo.com/forums/viewt ... p?t=137595
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by heeman10 on Wed Sep 13, 2006 2:59 pm
Thanks for all the updates, the more pictures/recent prices/correct part numbers etc the better
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Re: heeman's AP paddle clutch manual adjust pedal mod guide
by GavStyli on Tue Feb 22, 2011 11:04 pm
many thanks sheman, i shall be trying this out shortly! :)
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Re: heeman's AP paddle clutch manual adjust pedal mod guide
by mikeymikeyp on Sun Mar 11, 2012 11:48 pm
going to be doing this and im just checking I can make my own pedal by drilling a bolt in and welding a nut on the pedal so that it moves the bigger part of the ratchet do i still need to use the smaller bit of the ratchet u know the bit that has the small spring wraped around it
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Re: heeman's AP paddle clutch manual adjust pedal mod guide
by TIL13R on Wed Jan 09, 2013 7:54 pm
B******S..... I ordered all the bits of the Escort mk5 pedal...!!!
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Re: heeman's AP paddle clutch manual adjust pedal mod guide
by GavStyli on Wed Jan 09, 2013 8:05 pm
didnt work for you tiler?
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Re: heeman's AP paddle clutch manual adjust pedal mod guide
by TIL13R on Wed Jan 09, 2013 8:15 pm
Ived not tried it yet gav tbh... i have brought
http://extremesportsproducts.com/Galler ... ctions.pdf
Really great bit of kit.. Just thinking it might not work with the fiesta....
http://extremesportsproducts.com/Galler ... ctions.pdf
Really great bit of kit.. Just thinking it might not work with the fiesta....
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Re: heeman's AP paddle clutch manual adjust pedal mod guide
by AW0L on Wed Jan 09, 2013 8:20 pm
[quote="TIL13R"]Ived not tried it yet gav tbh... i have brought
http://extremesportsproducts.com/Galler ... ctions.pdf
Really great bit of kit.. Just thinking it might not work with the fiesta....[/quote]
i had the same pedal (not that kit though. gen ford), it does fit but moves the pedal left almost touching the centre console... i have a spare fiesta manual adjustment pedal with the white knob on it
http://extremesportsproducts.com/Galler ... ctions.pdf
Really great bit of kit.. Just thinking it might not work with the fiesta....[/quote]
i had the same pedal (not that kit though. gen ford), it does fit but moves the pedal left almost touching the centre console... i have a spare fiesta manual adjustment pedal with the white knob on it
- AW0L
- Post Master
- Posts: 585
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- Your car: ford fiesta 1.8 xr2i
Re: heeman's AP paddle clutch manual adjust pedal mod guide
by pauldolman on Mon Jan 11, 2016 10:59 pm
can someone tell me the right adjustable pedal to buy please to do this mod
i can only seem to find the mk5/6 escort one with the adjustment on it which is no good for a fiesta
i can only seem to find the mk5/6 escort one with the adjustment on it which is no good for a fiesta
- pauldolman
- Post Master
- Posts: 916
- Joined: Mon Feb 24, 2003 12:08 am
35 posts • Page 1 of 1
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