Hitting 200bhp with a T2

CVH and Zetec tuning, suspension and braking mods.

Hitting 200bhp with a T2

Postby mk_83 on Tue May 30, 2006 1:10 am

I'm looking to hit 200bhp whilst keeping my T2. Will I be able to do it like this:

T2 with 360o Thrust Bearing (already done by previous owner)
Powerflow 2.5inch stainless system (already on car)
Piper X Induction Kit (already on car)
Stage 2 Chip Kit (inc Beige Injectors)
Universal Intercooler Supplied by http://www.impact-styling.com (Dimensions: 680mm x 170mm x 74mm)
Charge Cooler

Will it work? Will I need to uprate the fuel pump (currently running a 1995 Escort 1400cc PTE pump)?
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Postby jdfiesta on Tue May 30, 2006 2:20 am

i think it's possible. IIRC there is a member on here that got 204bhp with t2
might be mistaken though
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Postby andyhardy on Tue May 30, 2006 5:29 am

M4FRD's is running about 204bhp with his T2 and got respectable times and top speeds at Bruntingthorpe recently. I'm pretty sure that is with a hybrid T2 though - look at the prices of them compared to a hybrid T3 and you'll see why so many people change to T2.

I would recommend a T3 not just for the money saving - turbo kicked in later on meaning motorway cruising used less fuel (T2 was always on boost at speeds above 70 in 5th) and the boost held alot higher than with the T2 where it tails off at higher speeds. Also, because it's bigger you're stressing it alot less than squeezing all that power out of a smaller turbo.

There really isn't that much work that needs doing to fit one.

Just my opinion!

Cheers,

Andy
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Postby andyhardy on Tue May 30, 2006 5:36 am

Just looked at the rest of the spec. - beige's will do you for 200bhp but if you want any more then you're looking at a remap by a reputable tuner with bigger cc injectors. Also - you don't mention any camshaft change? I'd recommend a CVH34 but some people recommend the CVH35 from Kent cams.

Ditch the idea of the chargecooler as they're pants on Fiesta's (engine bays too small and you'll need a degree in cryogenics to work out a suitable cooling arrangement for the header tank lol) and go for a decent sized front mount intercooler.

Dependin on your ECU you may have problems with the MAP sensor, OFAC as standard with just a chip can only take up to positive 1.1bar of boost before it'll start playing up. It can be worked around, but again you'll need to have the ECU tweaked, which would be done when being properly mapped.

Exhaust sounds good - 2.5" bore all the way through would be good, although it will depend on how restrictive the back box is, I'd go for a Mongoose as myself and other people have used them and found them to produce the same types of noise as Scorpions etc. but have a much more straight through back box helping to get rid of the exhaust gases quicker (this is really really important on turbo cars due to the restriction the turbo puts on the exhaust side of the engine in the first place).

Cheers,

Andy
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Postby jdfiesta on Tue May 30, 2006 9:10 am

andyhardy :M4FRD's is running about 204bhp with his T2


i thought it was m4rd, just didint want to risk being wrong, lol
JJ
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Is that the best you can do?
www.volvot5.co.uk - www.germanshepherdsuk.co.uk
2000 V70 T5 SE - 2.3, 5 cylinder, 20V, VVT, Turbo, 250bhp, cream leather, climate control, the works!
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Postby BUTRE on Wed May 31, 2006 3:17 am

Yes you'll need an uprated fuel pump. Don't know what pump is on the Escort 1400, but I really doubt its anygood.

You'll need the FRST uprated fuel pump (wich is the same as std escort cosworth fuel pum). Sytec, walbro or bosch.
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Info

Postby mk_83 on Wed May 31, 2006 1:48 pm

Thanks guys: That's all helpful stuff. I should probably explain what I'm doing in a little more detail.

I'm fitting a FRST (with OFAB ECU) to my MK5b 1995 Escort. I picked up a v.good condition second hand engine (only 44k original, HPI verified miles). The reason I want to keep the T2 is that the previous owner just had it reconed at a cost of £450 after it went pop in October 05. It's got a 360o thrust bearing now and has absolutely no play at all! A T3 in this condition would be rather exponsive.

Also I'm running 18"s so lag is something i really want to stay away from (good point about motorway cruising though). I hadn't thought about that.

I've got loads of room in the engine bay for a charge cooler (but only wanted it if it was needed to break the 200bhp mark) otherwise it's just expensive hassle. I think I'll give it a miss.

I haven't looked at swapping the camshaft. I'm looking to keep costs down wherever possible and followed advise from PF Mag to create the above tuning spec. What benefits does the cam offer? Is it worth the wonga?

Just to clarify the exaust system is a powerflow system with 2.5inch bore pipe work a centre box and a back box, is this still good enough?

Finally feel free to have a butchers at me car here:
http://www.rs20004x4.com/test/index.php ... =12&CID=75

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Also i'm not sure how to choose my intercooler. The I've mentioned above is simply the best size and shape to fit the cut out in my front bumper (see pic below). I don't know whether it's going to be any goor for the FRST engine. How do you decide?

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Update

Postby mk_83 on Wed May 31, 2006 7:28 pm

Sorry: I forgot one question. Following the T2 going pop The previous owner also had the exhaust manifold repaired as it had cracked between the branches serving cylinder's 1 & 2. It's now been welded up.

He claims that this repair is fine and that this is something that some FRST owners do as a mod (even if there's no repair required) to strengthen this section of the manifold as it's the weakest part and normally is the first thing to go in a boost crisis!

Is that true?
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Re: Update

Postby BUTRE on Wed May 31, 2006 8:40 pm

mk_83 :Sorry: I forgot one question. Following the T2 going pop The previous owner also had the exhaust manifold repaired as it had cracked between the branches serving cylinder's 1 & 2. It's now been welded up.

He claims that this repair is fine and that this is something that some FRST owners do as a mod (even if there's no repair required) to strengthen this section of the manifold as it's the weakest part and normally is the first thing to go in a boost crisis!

Is that true?


Welding the std iron exhaust manifold is something that never gets perfect. Usually it cracks once again right next to the weld. :x
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