fiestaturbo.com

[Fezzy Turbo]

The way to check if its genuine:

All RS Fiesta's have a 17 digit VIN.

The first 10 characters should either be : VS6 BXX WP FB or SFA BXX BA FB the next 2 characters indicate the build date.
The last 5 digits are the vehicle serial number.

The engine number for the original engine is the same as the last 7 characters of the 17 digit VIN.

[andymac]

Split this from the original old thread and stickied somwhere useful.

[RS_Rawli]

wheres my crayons?

[Cage]

Does this apply to RS1800's aswell?

[JasperJ]

Sorry to intrude but ALL fiesta's have a 17 Digit vin.

Which letter identifies the model as I'm sure its one on the left side of the plate next to the chassis no, I will check this later & confirm if anybody is interested

[rob pace]

Sorry to intrude but ALL fiesta's have a 17 Digit vin.

Which letter identifies the model as I'm sure its one on the left side of the plate next to the chassis no, I will check this later & confirm if anybody is interested

i used this from somewhere else-

The "H" is the BASIC Version. This should be as follows:
S = Popular etc.
D = "L"
F = "LX"
H = XR2, Turbo

[xr2i-carl]

[JasperJ]

i used this from somewhere else-

The "H" is the BASIC Version. This should be as follows:
S = Popular etc.
D = "L"
F = "LX"
H = XR2, Turbo

Hi all, Had a butchers at Microcat & the code should be LH for a turbo
L being the engine size (1600) & H for Turbo charger.

Xr2i's are plated L J
Again L is for engine size but J is for EFI.

[ukmicky]

You cant tell if a fiesta is a geniune RS or Turbo from reading the vin number. Mine VS6BXXWPFBLM*****

Manufacturer Identifier: Ford Espana sa (Spain)
Body type: 3 Door Hatchback
Line: Ford Spain (Own Assembly)
Assembly Plant: Valencia (Spain)
Model: Fiesta
Year: 1990 (some codes are used for more than one year)
Month: July
Production Sequence: *****


Position 1-3: World Manufacturer Identifier = / VS6 Ford Espana sa (Spain) /SFA = Ford Motor Company Ltd. (England)

Position 4+10: Body Type B = 3-door A = 5-door
Position 5-6: XX XX ALL CARS
Position 7: Line W = Ford Spain (own assembly) B = Ford Great Britain assembly C = Ford Great Britain ,assembly by affiliate
Position 8: Assembly Plant P = Valencia (Spain) A = Dagenham (United Kingdom)
Position 9: Model F = Fiesta A = Escort OR Orion
Position 10: Body type again B = 3-door
Position 11: Year L = 1990 M =1991 N = 1992
Position 12: Month M = MONTH in 1990 L Y S T J U M P B R A G U = JUNE /M = JULY/ ---- 1991 C K D E L Y S T J U M P JUNE = Y JULY = S --- 1992 B R A G C K D E L Y S T / JUNE = K JULY = D

Position 13-17: Production Sequence Number


As you can see no letter in THE 17 DIGIT Vin identifies TURBO, the only way is to check V5 or type in registration on DVLA WEBSITE

Also look to see that the engine number is the same as the last part of the vin from the last two leters as as this will tell you if the engine has been change at some time in the past.

[O.K.C]

How does this info tell you if your FRST is genuine?

All it tells you is that the paper work and tags are correct.

It does not tell you if the shell is a genuine one.

[Chris 2i]

How does this info tell you if your FRST is genuine?

All it tells you is that the paper work and tags are correct.

It does not tell you if the shell is a genuine one.

mate, the VIN is stamped directly into the shell...

[O.K.C]

So?

I have bought many cars to strip over the years that have been taken apart at a later date only to find that it is not genuine and has lots of hidden history.

Funny enough the Fiesta RST is the most common for a ringer as there is no diff from an XR2i and easy to swap over.
I wonder how many cars on here are genuine?

[Chris 2i]

It's true that they (like any other car) can be rung and sold on, but that's beyond the scope of this post isn't it?

Assuming the car hasn't been rung (which is something everyone should thoroughly look for when buying a car anyway) this is a way to tell from the chassis number.

No harm in this info being here is there?

[O.K.C]

Not at all its good for everyone being able to understand what the tags mean.

However i think it more important that the number in the floor is genuine.


Edit to add:

What i was expecting to see when i opened the thread was details of what makes the FRST shell different from others and how you could tell if it is genuine.

For example

The difference from an ERST S1 shell with a 1.6Mk3 shell.
Or an ERST S2 shell with an XR3i shell.
Or a 3dr Cosworth shell compared with a 1.6l or Auto shell
Or an RS500 compared to a 3dr Shell.

These all have very obvious differences which makes it easy to tell if what you have is real RS.

[Chris 2i]

for sure mate, goes without saying!

welcome to the forum btw, if you'd like a fiestaturbo.com keyring, follow the link in my signature below

[O.K.C]

I edited the post by the time you replied sorry..

[Chris 2i]

ah I see, check out the main site and also the guides section. If you don't see what you want, put a post up in the relevant place asking for clarification.

[jonyb4]

The way to check if its genuine:

All RS Fiesta's have a 17 digit VIN.

The first 10 characters should either be : VS6 BXX WP FB or SFA BXX BA FB the next 2 characters indicate the build date.
The last 5 digits are the vehicle serial number.

The engine number for the original engine is the same as the last 7 characters of the 17 digit VIN.

great info!

[andymac]

Not at all its good for everyone being able to understand what the tags mean.

However i think it more important that the number in the floor is genuine.

Good point and one that applies to any used car purchase.

Edit to add:

What i was expecting to see when i opened the thread was details of what makes the FRST shell different from others and how you could tell if it is genuine.

For example

The difference from an ERST S1 shell with a 1.6Mk3 shell.
Or an ERST S2 shell with an XR3i shell.
Or a 3dr Cosworth shell compared with a 1.6l or Auto shell
Or an RS500 compared to a 3dr Shell.

These all have very obvious differences which makes it easy to tell if what you have is real RS.

Feel free to add more info if you have it - a guide to telling the differences between an "original" FRST and a "built up" FRST would be useful.

[jayrs]

the only differance between the FRST shell and a base spec shell is the rear inner archs have flats stapped in to allow for when the body kit is bolted on the under side of the wheel arch, i.e the washer of the nut can sit flat and the gap between inner and outer arch is reduced), however, this is the same design as used on the xr2i also.
and thats it! , take a bare shell (no doors, bonnet etc) you got 2 types, with with kit fixings which could be a 2i or a RS, and one with out, which could be anything else, thats the only differance your find in shell design on the mk3 fiesta.
but the vin number is what says what it will be, 2i or a RS, and thats what this thread is about, numvers, not panels, as panels can, and will be changed at some point due to rot, and you could fit the wrong inner arch if thats all that you can get...

oh, im not inc the mk3.5 fiestas into this for 2 reasons, 1, not FRST were made in mk3.5, and 2, the mk3.5 does have differences in chassis design as well as cosmetic differences resulting in changes in panel design/production, such as filler flap, bigger openings in doors for the mirros, the extra hole in the front panel for the bonnet switch, braces behind the dash etc etc, too many little ones for me to waste me time lisitng them as it will take the thread off topic

[lazcarrs]

My RS is similair to the above but VS6BXXWPFBLU***** but U at the end before numbers. No LH anywhere, just the L.

Fiesta RS turbo on log book and all numbers match inc floor numbers/log book and original bill of sale from Ford in 1990 plus FSH.

So is the above "LH" part mean mine and the prevous post with similiar chasis number not an original RS? Confused