is 2degree camber too much?

CVH and Zetec tuning, suspension and braking mods.

is 2degree camber too much?

Postby alti on Wed Nov 02, 2005 9:11 pm

hi!

i lowered my car with 40mm H&R spring and bilstein dampers.
but i think its ~50mm.

i messuare 30cm between middle of the wheelbearing and the arches.
today i adjust the geometrie.

0,45 degree camber in the rear
and 2,0 degree in the front, :-?
the tirewear is not importantly,but can i drive fast (~130-140mph)with so much camber?

ford says the camber is ok between 2,22 and 0,24 degree.
it looks :Q

whats the best trace? / \
i adjusted it to -1,8mm (-0,9mm in the left and the same right)

thanks alti
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Postby heeman10 on Thu Nov 03, 2005 5:19 am

I'm at about 2 degrees on mine, should be fine :)
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Postby BUTRE on Wed Nov 09, 2005 2:31 am

Track geometry... the fiesta mk3 is by far the worst one!!!! LOL

Everything on the mk3 needs to be revised so it can made to handle like a cl1o.

Talking only about track geometry:

the lower you get the car, the more negative camber you'll have. Lowering the mk3 -40mm will give you almost -1.5º at front. For road and everyday driving I'll say its the max you'll want! The best is -1º of camber.

The more camber you have, the more "suport" on cornering you'll have BUT on straight line you have less grip to put the power down and braking is also worse. For dragracing, use -0.5º max of camber at front.
For trackday's, I've seen ppl having good results with -2.5º at front but its not up to camber!

Camber is sensitiv to castor. The mk3 castor is the uglyboy that makes cornering a nightmare!!! It only has got 0.3º and it should be somewhere between 2º and 3º!!!

Toe is another one. Its hard to tell what is best since it depends if the car is FWD, RWD etc and the driver feedback is crucial.

I have always in mind a starting point:
For road FWD use:
Camber front -1º
Castor 2º
Toe out 30min
Camber back -0.4º
Toe (Try out 30min and let driver speak to you. Try in 30min and ear the driver again).

Other thing that improves/kills handling is weight distribution. The car must be weighted at all 4 corners with driver inside and it should be lowered independently in each 4 corners. Coilovers are the best for this.

Once on road/track, is up to the driver feedback once again and good adjustments can be done with different spring rates.

Alot can be done to make a car handle... and now with the FRST I really want to make it handle like my cl1o :bonkers: :bonkers: :bonkers:
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Postby alti on Wed Nov 09, 2005 5:38 pm

thank you mate!

if i use the stock-1,1 lower arms,
the camber should be better then the frst one?

make it really sens to weld a plate in the rearbeam?
isn´t it to strong?

thanks alti
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Postby BUTRE on Fri Nov 11, 2005 3:59 pm

dont know if the std 1.1 arms are the same of the FRST.

I have a zetec-s rear beam waiting to be fit. Alot o ppl says that this sorts the rear bad handling and I hope it does! By the look of it, the zetec-s reambeam is stronger and because of its hubs/drums it gets the track wider. Everything is a plus to the zetec-s rearbeam.

I know that zoomotorsport also mods this rearbeam to become adjustable. Dont know if its really needed.
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