fiestaturbo.com

[Asad]

Well, ok. I got a hint from my mate in the German fiesta-ka-tuning.de forum some minutes ago that I have to remove the water header tank. Then I can remove the screw from the top.

Have a nice weekend

Do you have a picture of you engine bay?

You should be able to pull it back enough to get a deep 10mm socket in.
As you undo the nut, it will pop off.


Good luck


Asad

[Max M4X WW]

Excelent work and pics!

[McNugget]

No, thats exactly the problem. I cannot pull it back to get the 10mm.
And remember: I live in Germany
My ECU sits on the right side inside the cabin behind the board. It is hurrible to work somewhere that deep behind the instrument panel without seeing what youre hands are doin'...

But I think the problem seems to be similar.

here is my engine bay:


EDIT: What did you pay for the exhaust
That thing looks very cool! I thought about buying one made for the Zetec, but that costs about 166 pound... Maybe later

You did a lot of work to the TBs! Very cool! Maybe I can get some TBs tomorrow. My plan is to cut an original Zetec 1.8l manifold off to fit the TBs. Two of 'em should be coming on monday so that I can check that.

[Asad]

The ecu is held in place, and that wouldnt case your problem.

You need to pull the rubber ecu cover back from the engine bay. I dont see why you need to remove the expansion bottle, as the ecu is where you car jack is.

Have you removed the two nuts either side of the rubber?

The rubber would pull back over the wires, so i dont see why you are having a problem.


Asad

[McNugget]

As your car was build for UK, you can drive where my ECU sits. That meens that there is no place for the ECU behind the instrument board because of the feets of the driver.
In my case we drive in the left side of the car, so the ECU is not located inside the engine bay but inside the divers cabin on the right (where You normaly sit)

Here is a little illustration:




I can take a pic of the position tomorrow so that you can see where it sits.

[Asad]

Right I see now.

Yep remove the water bottle. You dont need to do anything from under the dash. Once you removed the ecu connector, you can unclip the ECU and push it down.

The exhaust if from a Focus ST170. I got it off ebay (where else?). The ports etc match, but Im not sure if i can squeeze it in. The bends at the bottom come forward. Im not sure I will have room for them. If not, I will get them cut off and rewelded.


Asad

[McNugget]

Ok, I got the plug off and got the MS on instead.

I checkt the sensors, all seemed to be well.
I noticed some noise on the TPS signal. I turned the key to check if its a problem.
Fuel pump ran for 2 seconds and I started to crank. Fired up.. stalled. Fires about 0.5sec then stall. All the time.
Ok, lets tip on the gas. Ah, it fires up and runs as long as I have a foot on the gas. But very poorly! Two cylinders fire, then three, then one... foot off the gas --> dies at ones.

So I checked the TPS pot. Its all well with it. My oscillograph shows a very nice and smooth movement when its unpluged off the car laying on my desk.
I will check the wires later this day to get an idea of whats happening with the signal.

[FezzR]

glad to see you got the ecu off, easy when you know how

running probs seem slightly odd, might be worth just running another signal wire bypassing the loom, and see what improvements you get

[ERRR] sort of revs were you holding it at? sounds like your idle speed control may need some attention as well as any other problems

[McNugget]

I hope to get Asads file today. If not I have to wait until tomorrow

Here is a little snip of my exhaust while engine tries to run. You can see a lot of smoke, I think its not combusted fuel.

I have to step on the gas to have the engine running. Otherwise it dies as you can see at the end. I did not turn the engine off by myself.

http://www.microforge.de/mcnugget/vids/engineexhaust.avi

[FezzR]

smoke looks quite blue in the vid, but with the way it doesnt smoke on overrun to me means it is unburnt fuel.

still think your lacking idle speed control, i hope you have a wideband lambda probe and gauge for your mapping

[McNugget]

No, thats one of my problems. I have a narrow band sensor.

I'll check every wire tomorrow because I think I have a lot of noise.

The TPS gauge jumps around when I step slowly on the pedal.
When the TPS signal is that noisy maybe others are, too.
But why should there be that much noise within the system? Especialy when the engine is not running. That doesn't make sense to me.

I'll have an eye on the idle control tomorrow again cause my neighbors have a barbecue this evening.

Cheers,
Timo

[Asad]

Hi mate,

Just got in now!

Firstly you dont have to worry too much about noise in the TPS signal. MS uses the map.

The main question is what firmware are you using? You should be using the extra firmware to control the ignition.

As for it cutting out, it could be one of two things:-

You REQ_Fuel is incorrect. What injectors are you using? What is your REQ_Fuel value?

Or what you need to do is adjust the throttle stop on the throttle body. I had to do this to get it to idle. You are basically manually letting in more air.


My file is useless unless you are running the Extra firmware with ignition triggered by LED 17.

Add me to msn mate as it will be easier to help you.


Asad

[disc]

Asad:
Give him your MSQ, he can change LED17 to IDLE if he use Extra firmware.

McNugget:
It's sounds to me that you don't have good ground to ECU and sensors - run another ground direct to battery. I have my MS working in the car without any problems - 1.4 CVH CFI. Right now I'm using it just for ignition while driving car on LPG, waiting for my ZetecTurbo to be build. Later will use Megasquirt for LPG Injection on ZetecTurbo, cause price of LPG is half ot gaz. Using LED17 for SAW.

[McNugget]

Hi again,

I've just soldered the mods needed for the Extra firmware and I'm going to upgrade the ECU now.
I have an idea where the noice probably comes from:
I used Asads pinout to the ECU plug of the car. I soldered everthing including pip and saw. PIP is just like "noise" if it is not needed.
I soldered a new - better - plug on the MSnS side, too.

Asad is on the way with the file, so I hope to get my engine startet within the next hour

Thanks for the help!

Timo

[disc]

Keep us updated dude! Soon I'll need good fuel and spark tables to start with ZT.

[McNugget]

hm... The engine is not able to idle. I set the ReqFuel to 19. I changed not much else on Asads file.
I can get the engine idle at 900 RPM when I open my throttle quite a bit. When I go off the gas it dies. But this time it tries for a second befor it dies completely.

I'll have talk to Asad... come back later.

[disc]

McNugget:
Why don't you try PWM Idle modification and using original Idle valve as described in Extra page:

http://megasquirt.sourceforge.net/extra/pwmidle.html

[OrionZetec]

ST170 exhaust manifold will foul the starter motor if yours is at the front of the engine asad. Been there tried that

[Rhinopower]

if starter is on back will it fit an escort ok?

[McNugget]

Hi there,

while talking to Asad he noticed that I have to modify the closed throttle position screw a bit due to the fakt that MSnS is not able to provide sequential injection. So I tuned that screw and with Extra firmware and Asads Zetec 2.0l file.... it actually starts and runs

Yehaa

Thanks a lot for your help, Asad and all the others! Now I'm ready to fine tune the maps to get the best performance

Cheers,
Timo

[Asad]

Another update.

I got some small tubes to sort out a take off for my brake servo. They looked like this:-



They fit nice and tight in the injector holes. They will be secured with JB weld when I can be arsed:-



And a close up:-




This shows the workman ship of my mates dad. He made these spacers for me:-




I also sprayed black some parts that may rust over time or were exposed due to welding:-




And finally my Wideband O2 sensor turned up. Cost £136 delivered:-




On another note, today I decided I would try the map for my MS that was done on the rollers. I initially messed around with it because I thought it was too rich and drinking petrol. But whilst driving with it, I wasnt going as rich as I remember. This made me realise that my first NB O2 sensor (Im on my second) must have been faulty. This also means that any adjustments that I made were incorrect!

With the old map loaded back in, the car felt much faster, and there was no hesistation past 5500rpm! Pulled all the way up to 6500rpm and I managed a 8.3 0-60 on the GTech!

This was with crazy amounts of wheelspin, almost spinning on the spot towards the kerb!

So now I have a Wideband, I will see whats happening and be able to map much more accurately.

I also have a map that I can use for sprints etc!


I hopefully will get my finger out and JB weld on the bits that I need. Once this is done, it should be ready to go on!



Asad

[FezzR]

wats wrong with the 4 take offs that are sat right next to the ones you've put on?

as for the WB is it actually a Bosch WB or a similar the Bosch ones are very sensitive, often go faulty and are very sensitive to fuel!

i have a few lying around due to the number that go wrong people diagnose them of the top of the head an i keep the ones that dont appear to be faulty.
my suggestion to you would be to have two sensors. one for constant day to day use and another to only put in when your mapping this means it will be not subjected to aging and the like and saving you replacing the sensor as often, and giving you a direct comparison for if one does go wrong.

[Asad]

The four take offs already there are actually behind the butterfly. So on close throttle, they would not provide any vacuum.

As for only using the WB occasionally, thats a great idea! My NB is easily accessible so I might just do that.

Yeah it is a Bosch sensor - LSU4.2



Asad

[Asad]

Started on the JB weld today. This is how it currently is:-




Close up:-




Was a lot easier to get it in than I thought it would be. Now I just need to leave it to harden. Should take around 24 hrs.

Once its done, I will move onto stick my reducers on.



Asad

[FezzR]

good job

[Max M4X WW]

Whats JB weld?

[FezzR]

chemical metal, mix a paste and a liquid to and when it dries its like metal

[Max M4X WW]

Sounds a bit cool, Seems to be a good match anyway!

[OrionZetec]

Nice one ASAD
Coming on lovely
Are you seriously using them slothead screws? If there m6 thread then i got some stainless caphead screws you can have free bud

[Asad]

Yep JB Weld is chemical metal.

Once hardened, you can drill, grind and machine it. It has a tensile strength of 4000lbs! Good stuff!

Its pretty hard now, so tomorrow I will try and stick the reducers on. Only problem is that the stuff will flow around the edge when I first apply it. Its very viscous. Bit of head scratching required there methinks!

I was planning on JB weld around the outside:-




Or how about inside? I could manipulate it to smooth the step :-




Just worried about it flowing around before setting!



Asad

[Asad]

Nice one ASAD
Coming on lovely
Are you seriously using them slothead screws? If there m6 thread then i got some stainless caphead screws you can have free bud

Nah, wont be using those screws.

Will probably get some small bolts or allen key head ones


Asad

[Asad]

Nice one ASAD
Coming on lovely
Are you seriously using them slothead screws? If there m6 thread then i got some stainless caphead screws you can have free bud

Nah, wont be using those screws.

Will probably get some small bolts or allen key head ones


Asad

[chris-fiesta]

the cars gonna sound and go like a beast

[FezzR]

could you not mix it differently or wate to it to dry slightly? (would try is on something else first if you try this )


might have to use jb weld on me head to fill the threaded holes before drilling and tapping

[OrionZetec]

Id try jb welding from the inside. Put a tiny amount on 1st then build it up slowly. You could wait a while till it goes tacky then apply it?
No worry about the screws, the offers there if you want some