fiestaturbo.com

[Excursion]

Some nice bits mate

And as eddie said, lights sit flush with the bezel

Cheers

[RS EDDIE]

Try adjusting the front facia screws this normally does the trick...try that before taking them apart.

Id be interested in seeing a small guide on puddle lights!!!

[Excursion]

Try adjusting the front facia screws this normally does the trick...try that before taking them apart.

Id be interested in seeing a small guide on puddle lights!!!

I will write one up mate when I get chance next week.

[RS EDDIE]

[jonyb4]

good stuff

im interesting in that guide too, been thinking about doing them for a little while

[andymac]

I have been meaning to fit puddle and footwell lights for the past couple of weeks, since it's been dark all the time. MIght attend to that this week; I've got spare wing mirrors etc if I screw up

[jonyb4]

oh to the mirrors or the doors?

[- Danny Boy -]

I have been meaning to fit puddle and footwell lights for the past couple of weeks, since it's been dark all the time. MIght attend to that this week; I've got spare wing mirrors etc if I screw up

I've been wanting to do similar with regards to puddle lights, ever since my step dad got his BMW a couple of years ago and I saw them at night I wanted them. Under the handles would be nice too

[jonyb4]

i imagine its simple enough though, should be able to simply wire it into the door ajar switches, and leach of the interior light, hardest is probs finding a suitable bulb holder

[RS EDDIE]

Boot light holder and make a nice fit square to house it???

[- Danny Boy -]

For the footwell lights yeah. It's been done before, it's piece of piss. The puddle lights you'd need to wire into remote central locking, again, easy to do, just wire a relay into the unlock signal wire. Theoretically you could wire the interior light(s) to light up when the car is unlocked too. Sidelights also, horn, air bag deployment, whatever you wanted really

[Excursion]

For each kick panel I have the boot light holders which will serve as courtesy lights. My puddle lights are going in the bottom edge of the Mk4 door cards, so they face downwards. With the Mk3 door cards you'd have to cut a hole and have them mounted outwards.

To wire them up take the central locking permanent live that is already in the door loom and for the earth run a wire to the door ajar switch. The earth is slightly more involved as you will need to add a new pin to both sides of the door wiring multiplug. I cut a door loom multiplug from a scrap car in order to get the two extra female pins required, and a small section of car loom side to get the male pins.

[jonyb4]

why does it need to be the locking feed?

im struggling to comprehend how that would pan out

you turn the car off and open the door, why would the light come on if its wired to the locks which you haven't yet used till your already standing in a puddle


surely wiring the lights for the puddles would work best when the door ajar switch is on



but danny im doing that air bag trigger one for sure!

[DanFraser]

but danny im doing that air bag trigger one for sure!

Pressure switch in the seat fabric, relayed feed off the alternator blue wire, additional stop button added to the clutch pedal, wire into airbag activation.

Get in car, sit on seat, start engine, clutch down to engage gear and BOOM.

[- Danny Boy -]

just laughed so hard at that Dan! BOOM!

Puddle lights are mainly designed to work when you unlock the car approaching it, when you get out the car they do come on i think, but aren't as useful. Depends if they are mounted internally or externally. Some are external on the mirror baseplates and bottom of the door handles, some are mounted in the bottom of the doors. The ones mounted in the door would be useful to be wired up to the door switch.

[jonyb4]

ah didnt consider getting in lol

what i you dont have remote central locking then? ya buggered lol
speaking of which i gotta order my new unit as mine dont work

[- Danny Boy -]

Well if you don't have it then yeah you can't really do it

[Excursion]

why does it need to be the locking feed?

im struggling to comprehend how that would pan out

you turn the car off and open the door, why would the light come on if its wired to the locks which you haven't yet used till your already standing in a puddle

surely wiring the lights for the puddles would work best when the door ajar switch is on

but danny im doing that air bag trigger one for sure!

The locks have a permanent live feed otherwise they wouldn't work when you had taken the key out of the ignition It's always better to switch Earth instead of live whenever you can and this is taken care of by the ajar switch.

[~nomad~]

oh to the mirrors or the doors?

He is going to fit them to the doors, but if he fucks the doors up he is going to replace the doors with the spare pair of wing mirrors he has.

[andymac]

fudgekin LOL.

I have spare doors too, but I'd rather not have to paint them as it's a nutache getting a colour match.

Lights in doors are fine for getting out, but when getting in you need them to be external, hence wing mirrors. I'll be using 10mm warm white LEDs which output around 12,000mcd of light over a 20 degree spread. I'll also be experimenting with different shapes of LED to ascertain the best shape to use for each application.

Lots of scope for experimentation, I'll create a post over in modifying - need to get some butyl tape while I'm at it to replace the old door seals while the covers are off so plenty to do.

[~nomad~]

The m3 (I presume all new BMWs, although not sure the 335i did) lights up like a xmas tree when you unlock it, ones on the door handles are well handy.

[AndysFatRS]

Just noseying through to make sure the inlet had arrived. I see it has,

regards to modifying the inlet, where the inlet transfers to the main chamber, there was an interesting article that 'Luca' from Passionford and here posted on his thread that iirc said that there was meant to be a restriction in order to equalise the pressure within the manifold plenum to every cylinder.
I think that doubling the width of them would be beneficial but no further i think, i'll try find the article. Its how Audi developed the design etc, actually very interesting


Edit - here

[Excursion]

Just noseying through to make sure the inlet had arrived. I see it has,

regards to modifying the inlet, where the inlet transfers to the main chamber, there was an interesting article that 'Luca' from Passionford and here posted on his thread that iirc said that there was meant to be a restriction in order to equalise the pressure within the manifold plenum to every cylinder.
I think that doubling the width of them would be beneficial but no further i think, i'll try find the article. Its how Audi developed the design etc, actually very interesting


Edit - here

Cheers Andy That' was one of the first manifold design articles I read when I first got in to cars. It's very good. The taper in the intersection area is crucial for equal cylinder filling and is something I will incorporate in the WRC manifold. It was probably lost during modification.

[andymac]

Need moar updatez chop chop...

[Excursion]

Need moar updatez chop chop...

Next weekend, Sir I'm getting to a stage where the interior can be refitted, as it will be trimmed for the beginning of March.

[jonyb4]

sorry if im being ignorant, but how is the engine looking?

cant remember if it was completed or not?

[crazycage]

Just noseying through to make sure the inlet had arrived. I see it has,

regards to modifying the inlet, where the inlet transfers to the main chamber, there was an interesting article that 'Luca' from Passionford and here posted on his thread that iirc said that there was meant to be a restriction in order to equalise the pressure within the manifold plenum to every cylinder.
I think that doubling the width of them would be beneficial but no further i think, i'll try find the article. Its how Audi developed the design etc, actually very interesting


Edit - here

Cheers Andy That' was one of the first manifold design articles I read when I first got in to cars. It's very good. The taper in the intersection area is crucial for equal cylinder filling and is something I will incorporate in the WRC manifold. It was probably lost during modification.

wasnt tapered mate, heres a pic before i cut the cone off and turned it round the other way

[Excursion]

wasnt tapered mate, heres a pic before i cut the cone off and turned it round the other way

Ahh cool, cheers.

[GavStyli]

loving the attention to detail, looks fantastic so far

[Excursion]

loving the attention to detail, looks fantastic so far

Cheers Gav

[Excursion]

I now have the rest of the stainless steel fastenings that are required for the rebuild.


Here's the standard Clevis pin on the Evo servo.


...which I had to shorten the as it made the Fiesta linkage sit too close to the bulkhead.


Ford don't paint the pedal box and some other parts behind the dashboard, so they were sanded, etch primed and painted.


The pedal box was rebuilt with new bushes smeared with silicone grease, and a new clutch master cylinder for the hydraulic conversion.


I got this far refurbishing the wiper linkage then decided to strip it all down to get the small parts re plated.


Engine bay sound deadening is NLA but came up with some elbow grease and black paint. It was cut to suit the new hydraulic clutch outlets.


Next I moved on to the brake linkage. Like most production cars the brake pedal in the Fiesta sits slightly proud of the others, which is absolutely useless for heel and toe, so using a 'long nut' and a few other things I've made the brake pedal to brake bar link adjustable.


Et voilà. This will allow me to fine tune the level of the brake pedal.


I reinforced the bracket which holds the drivers side of the brake link bar in an effort to further improve pedal response. This will compliment the other strengthening work I've done.


Here's the latest batch of parts ready to be Zinc plated:


I am going to add Bi-Xenon's to the car because I find it hard to go back to Halogen, however given the Mk3 Fiesta doesn't have headlamp washers let alone automatic range adjustment, and not wishing to be tarred with the same brush as those running 8000k Chinese kits in a reflector headlamp, things are immediately against me! To make any system legal I need to ensure it has both a headlamp wash function and automatic range control, and to this end my first purchase has been a pair of new genuine Ford German market (LHD) headlamps which have electronic range control, albeit manual. I'm going to convert these units to RHD by removing the glass and replacing it with that from my RHD headlamps. This will give me the basis for electronic range control.

To address the legal requirement for automatic levelling I have purchased the levelling system from a Mk1 Focus, which I selected for two reasons: 1) It doesn't use CAN, which is a necessity because I'm not employing it anywhere else, and 2) it will bolt up to my new rear suspension which is of course now Focus based. I was going to buy these parts from Ford but it all came to £750 + vat. One has to draw the line somewhere so I will recondition everything.


I will cover the headlamp wash in a future update, but that's really all there is for now as I'm waiting for parts to be plated and blasted/powder coated.

[Max M4X WW]

I'm most excited about the headlights bit now Something I wanted to do to my old white one years ago but never looked into the lens problem.

[Excursion]

I'm most excited about the headlights bit now Something I wanted to do to my old white one years ago but never looked into the lens problem.

I'm going to get a few sets of the clear plastic headlamp and indicator lenses done, mainly as I want some spares, but also so I can sell a few ready made Bi-Xenon units. I'm still not quite sure it's going to look quite 'right' as the projector will need to be mounted dead centre so it may look a bit 'cyclops' like, if you get me For me that's not such an issue as the benefits outweigh that. If it looks really dire I will take a different approach by using modified Polo 6N lamps.

[Minstral]

such a difference having xenons. loved them in the polo gti
im sure you will be able to magic somthing up

[Max M4X WW]

I'm still not quite sure it's going to look quite 'right' as the projector will need to be mounted dead centre so it may look a bit 'cyclops' like, if you get me For me that's not such an issue as the benefits outweigh that. If it looks really dire I will take a different approach by using modified Polo 6N lamps.

Exactly what my thoughts were at the time, I was thinking Polo or Clio 172.

I think having the extra lamp unit (halogen for main beam, or even DRL's) would look better.

I'm also not sure that having clear lenses will look right on the age of car, possibly with black internals and smoked/black indicators.