fiestaturbo.com

[heeman10]

I'm not sure if the linkage suggestions were jokes...hard to tell online! But I've tried three linkages on the car, the last of which is fully rebuilt by myself using ALL new Ford parts (apart from the four nuts that secure the linkage to the chassis at the cabin end).

Ian - If CTS don't find anything wrong with it, I'll just be sticking Silkolene's 75W90 in it along with the new release bearing I'll pick up and see what happens. Nothing more I can do then, but I'll be checking the clutch kit while the 'box is away.

Mark - I used the oil grade CTS recommended, 75W90 fully synthetic. They, after all, build hundreds of these things and know what works best, so I'm afraid I'm inclined to go with their hugely experienced opinion on this, no disrespect intended

Dave - I'm not going to go through it all again. Bearing change, oil change, re-fitting, re-tracking etc etc, only to find it needs to come out again, drain the oil, send it to CTS, pay for postage, labour, possibly parts etc, then pay for it to be returned, and fit it all over again, track the car up again. I'll do the whole lot in one go - learning from mistakes is what I call it

Dave - Yeah true, but as I was saying to Rawli earlier, it seems to be a fairly serious general concensus that I'm actually incapable of changing gear! I know this not to be the problem, so will continue down the route of returning the gearbox (that I almost sold to you, which makes me feel a bit of a toad) to CTS.

gary - Yeah, new year's pi55 up at the expense of several grand's worth of effort and hopes, sounds good to me!

Ad - It'll be gone next week once it's drained, wrapped up and a collection ordered

[MAD_Adamski]

good man as IMO you have messed with everything bar sending the box back..... now IMO if its sent back with nothing wrong you KNOW there is something wrong elsewhere... and easier to solve there as you yourself cannot check the gearbox really...

[heeman10]

Right and wrong. If it comes back, they say they find nothing AND it still doesn't shift better with the new bearing and Silkolene oil, I have a problem. Nothing else remains to be tried or changed at that point. It could be that a strip-down and rebuild is all it needs (it may have been assembled by an apprentice of sorts, I don't know) though I doubt it, as with gearboxes I'd say if it's not built properly, it won't last long at all! So, I'll just wait and see what they come up with

[~nomad~]

I'm not sure if the linkage suggestions were jokes...hard to tell online!

Dave - Yeah true, but as I was saying to Rawli earlier, it seems to be a fairly serious general concensus that I'm actually incapable of changing gear! I know this not to be the problem, so will continue down the route of returning the gearbox (that I almost sold to you, which makes me feel a bit of a toad) to CTS.

Of course it isn't a joke, I had no idea what linkage you are using and have used

Yes I am glad I never got the box. I don't need it, my standard lsd box is fine (gulp)

[GayBoy]

It's ashame your experiencing problems with your gearbox. Maybe you just need to be more brutal with the knob when changing?
Knobs can be a pain in the arse sometimes!

[heeman10]

As well you know Mr GB, thanks for the advance, I'll bear it in mind next time I blast one off up the strip.

[DaveRom]

T U R B O Z T POWER

That almost sound like Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtle Sound track kid

Maximum face

[purple_fiesta]

Knobs can be a pain in the arse sometimes!

Doesnt heeman know it!

[heeman10]

Update

Well, since the Rolling Road day at SCC last month, this car has been off the road. We found the actuator bracket, as suspected, to be too weak, and it was dropping boost on the rolling road, to the order of 4-5psi.

So first things first, the day after returning from my trip down south, I pulled the turbo and manifold out and went to Fusion Fabrication. The bracket now has three webs welded in and should be stiff enough to hold 15psi. [pics later]

While the turbo was out, and since we're at the scummy end of the year, I thought I might as well seize the moment and attack the problem I've had since completing this whole conversion in May last year - slow gear changes. I seemed to remember fitting the 90,000 mile release bearing to my new Stage 1 gearbox, but have since remember that CTS sent along a bearing with it. Nevertheless, I purchased a brand new bearing from Ford, but when I removed the gearbox, the release bearing felt fine to me. After a few discussions with CTS, I decided to send it down.

This is where we're up to now.

Three weeks after sending it to them, I'm now expecting it back tomorrow. The strip-down, inspection, re-assembly, collection/delivery and a gallon of the oil they find to work well was totted up to £251. PLUS VAT. I had pessimistically guesstimated a £250 bill inclusive of VAT, so had to have a word. CTS kindly absorbed some of the costs, bringing the bill down by £85. They found no problems whatsoever and said it's all tickety-boo, which I really didn't want to hear!

After MORE discussions and more head-scratching, I thought I might as well check the clutch, clutch cover and flywheel while the gearbox is off. I've just been out and done that now, and found it all to be in exemplary condition, which, again, rules something else out of the picture, giving me even fewer straws to clutch at.

Flywheel, showing smooth, lightly-worn face with only the lightest of "heat spots" generated by hard launches and slipping the clutch.



Another view of the flywheel. Orange gunk is just some crystalised coolant:



Clutch cover, again showing only very mild signs of heat damage, nothing more:



The rear of the clutch, showing one of the friction pads:



And the flywheel side. No signs of contact between any metal moving parts. For those thinking the friction pads looks as though they're almost spent - paddle clutches use very hard-wearing pads, and if you look at the bottom of the pad you'll see the "original" thickness of it. You will then notice that it has worn perhaps 300 microns or so in over 6,000 miles, which I was very happy about:



And the centre of the flywheel, where we thought there MIGHT have been contact between the crankshaft and the input shaft, even though the input shaft has no marks on it at all. The crankshaft showed the same lack of contact, and so this clears up in my head whether or not there are any problems at this end of the equation.



Additionally, it allowed me to check my dying belief that I'd fitted the clutch the right way round

So...where next? I'll hopefully have time to fit the gearbox etc back into the car over the weekend, then see where things stand. I need to set the boost again, plus re-do the tracking/camber, and then get on to seeing what to do about the gear selection issue.

I know this car can pull sub-6 second times!!!

[RS_Rawli]

with me maybe

[chris-fiesta]

lol @ rawli

James ever thought of checking the bushes on the linkage? not sure it is true but ive heard it mentioned on hear that worn linkage bushes slow the rate of gear change....but as i said im not to sure!


hope it gets sorted

[BUTRE]

I'm after the same solution to improve gear shifting speed.

First of all, I never NEVER driven any fiesta mk3 that shifts nicely like so many other cars (french namely). Even knowing this, I tried to sort this problem starting from where you have started heeman: linkage.

Bought rally design quickshift kit and new linkage parts from Ford.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/P ... nkage1.jpg

Bolted everything together:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/P ... nkage4.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/P ... nkage3.jpg

Then sorted the damn plastic ford bushes with ball-bearings to suit:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/P ... nkage2.jpg

After all that (doesn't seem much but I've bolted the linkage ten times to check for clearences, wear, etc) I've found that the gear knob lever would eventually drop down, so welded a "step" that would not allow the washer to slip:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/P ... nkage5.jpg

Shifting improved 200%. Now I dont miss changing 2nd into 3rd


I'm still not happy with this. Got under the car and asked a friend to shift gears so I could see where was the "gap" I still feel... now it's from gearbox. Going to open it to check it, change all bearings and swap the differencial for the LSD I have laying around for so long.


Hope you sort this one mate. Can't give any more ideas since the only way to check your problem is by giving it a go on your car and trying to guess by the feedback of the gearshifting.

[heeman10]

James ever thought of checking the bushes on the linkage? not sure it is true but ive heard it mentioned on hear that worn linkage bushes slow the rate of gear change....but as i said im not to sure!

Ever thought about it? :lol: I do it whenever I have the car in the air! The reaction rod's bush has been checked on around a bi-monthly basis. I have a brand new Ford bush in my tool chest, but it's not needed because the one on the car is still nice and stiff. You're right though, if that were worn, it could give me crappy shifting.

Rawli - Whatever

BUTRE - Sounds like you know my nightmare very well! My original gear selector rod (with the two knuckle joints) was a bit sloppy, so I bought a brand new (well, two brand new) selector rods from Ford, with very tight bushes in the knuckle joints. No change. The problem you've highlighted with the circlip groove in the gear lever is fairly common, so I bought a new gear lever from Ford, which took the slop out of that area. Still, no change. I have the bearings here to convert the bushed knuckle joints, and I will do, but the brand new Ford joints are very good as they are at the moment. People have suggested that I buy a Quickshift kit, but for £200 odd it'd be a major waste if it didn't solve the problem, and I can't guarantee I'd like the feel of it either. The amount of attention I've given the gear selection mechanism should mean it's free of potential issues too.

[heeman10]

Just had a thought...it might be worth checking the two holes in the gearbox reaction rod (that runs alongside the gear selector rod) where it bolts into the gear linkage housing under the seats. If those holes are worn the tinest amount, they would allow the reaction rod to slide backwards and forwards in the housing. I could do with someone shifting gears while I watch everything underneath - I never have anyone else around though.

[MAD_Adamski]

utter crap this, really need this sorting now

[heeman10]

Ok Ad, I'll sort it out then, dunno why I've been mucking around so long

[BUTRE]

BUTRE - Sounds like you know my nightmare very well! My original gear selector rod (with the two knuckle joints) was a bit sloppy, so I bought a brand new (well, two brand new) selector rods from Ford, with very tight bushes in the knuckle joints. No change. The problem you've highlighted with the circlip groove in the gear lever is fairly common, so I bought a new gear lever from Ford, which took the slop out of that area. Still, no change. I have the bearings here to convert the bushed knuckle joints, and I will do, but the brand new Ford joints are very good as they are at the moment. People have suggested that I buy a Quickshift kit, but for £200 odd it'd be a major waste if it didn't solve the problem, and I can't guarantee I'd like the feel of it either. The amount of attention I've given the gear selection mechanism should mean it's free of potential issues too.

If I don't feel confortable driving a car, I'm going to make mistakes and go off track because of my low reaction times... that's why I'm taking so long (and so much sweat) to make my FRST handle like a french and shut them up on track

Try rally design quickshift kit:
http://www.rallydesign.co.uk/catalog/pr ... ts_id=2011

It uses everything from ford unlike the B&M kit. It works very well for me... cheap and effective

Just had a thought...it might be worth checking the two holes in the gearbox reaction rod (that runs alongside the gear selector rod) where it bolts into the gear linkage housing under the seats. If those holes are worn the tinest amount, they would allow the reaction rod to slide backwards and forwards in the housing. I could do with someone shifting gears while I watch everything underneath - I never have anyone else around though.

You need to clean really well the linkage housing or it wont bolt back together nicely. If any grease or dirt get's between the two housing parts it will never properly close leaving you with a gap.

Get under the car and ask someone to shift gears. Only that way you can see what's really going on!

Also, adjusting the linkage rod that bolts on the gearbox rod it's a pain in the arse! Took me too long to get that right!

[heeman10]

BUTRE - Ahhhh yes, I'd forgotten the spacer block kit Rally Design do. Hmmm.....I think I'll go for one of those in the next month or so, will keep attacking my problem before changing another variable. Adjusting the selector rod collar on the gearbox selector shaft usually takes me about one minute Slide the rod collar on the selector shaft loosely, with the gearbox in neutral, go back into the car, stick the gear lever in neutral, then tighten up the collar. Job done!

People on Passionford are saying clutch or flywheel...unfortunately I'm going to have to bolt my clutch back on and bolt my gearbox back on first, to make sure it wasn't a gearbox/oil/release bearing issue. If it's still slow, THEN I'll have to look at the clutch. Can't change too many things at once or I'll never locate the issue, shame it all has to come in and out each time I want to try something though!

[BUTRE]

BUTRE - Ahhhh yes, I'd forgotten the spacer block kit Rally Design do. Hmmm.....I think I'll go for one of those in the next month or so, will keep attacking my problem before changing another variable. Adjusting the selector rod collar on the gearbox selector shaft usually takes me about one minute Slide the rod collar on the selector shaft loosely, with the gearbox in neutral, go back into the car, stick the gear lever in neutral, then tighten up the collar. Job done!

It only took me also one minute or so before the quickshift. Now, since the knob movement is 50% less, every little movement of the knob is more 50% on the rod so it must be precise as hell... Many attempts got me not beeing able to change into reverse or into 1st and 2nd

People on Passionford are saying clutch or flywheel...unfortunately I'm going to have to bolt my clutch back on and bolt my gearbox back on first, to make sure it wasn't a gearbox/oil/release bearing issue. If it's still slow, THEN I'll have to look at the clutch. Can't change too many things at once or I'll never locate the issue, shame it all has to come in and out each time I want to try something though!

The only way is really on trial and error basis.

You could try changing clutch going for a std frst disc...

Other thing that comes to my mind is: since you skimmed the flywheel, does it need to be balanced afterwards? Did yours?

[heeman10]

BUTRE - Ah I see, yeah that must make it quite tricky! What do you think of the length of the gear lever throw now? Is it usefully shorter, or so short that it's hard to differentiate between gear slots, particularly hitting third gear from second?

Trial and error is what I've been doing for the last year and a half, so yep, I'll be continuing along those lines. That's why I didn't really want to change everything at once, or I wouldn't know what had resolved the issue! At the same time, fitting inferior components that won't take the power of my engine may well give me a better gearshift, but it would all have to come off again then to replace it with something that would take the power/torque.

The flywheel wasn't balanced no, but that shouldn't affect the mating surfaces being parallel or not.

[heeman10]

Update

Just been on the phone to AP Racing for quite a while, and they want a look at my clutch plate and cover, so they'll be going down there for inspection. My gearbox turned up about half an hour ago, don't think it'll be going back on this weekend somehow! Might have to order one of these Rally Design short throw kits while the clutch is away, got nothing else to do, I have nothing to play with!

[mike_wall15]

Ah rubbish! Did they offer to look at it, or have you forced it upon them?
Least you have some coilovers to play with, and a great big Word Document

[heeman10]

They wanted to look at it. It seems they've had quite a few similar issues, but they're *all* resolved by carrying out the manual clutch pedal mod. Apparently some ERST's had problems from the factory with selecting first gear and reverse due to tolerances stacking up to the point where the clutch plate wouldn't fully release. This is on standard cars with standard Borg Beck clutches! My clutch will be thoroughly inspected for lift and and distortion in the friction plate, and I'll go from there. If they find the clutch to be spot on, as with the gearbox, the last piece in the jigsaw will be the flywheel.

[mike_wall15]

How long until you get it back? I guess you won't be driving until after xmas now?

Oh, and maybe you need a new knob? Maybe that is causing all these problems?

[heeman10]

No idea when I'll get it back, I'll courier it to them this afternoon, so they'll get it on Tuesday hopefully. He asked me to mark it urgent so he can get it straight down to the workshops, so perhaps have it sent back on Thursday if I'm lucky, and receive it the following Tuesday, which puts me on Boxing Day lol so.....who knows when it'll return? Looking at the first week of January I'd say matey, might as well order and fit the Rally Design short throw kit while I wait!

[Xr_Dub]

I think You should buy Dans Quick Shift
the proper one that he has, for xmas...

[MarkRS2K]

put the quickshift on your xmas list

Im sure your get to the bottom of it......eventually

[heeman10]

I think You should buy Dans Quick Shift
the proper one that he has for xmas...

He bought himself a QuickShift for christmas? Strange boy!

Mark - Wouldn't mind trying one once I've sorted the issue, can't decide at the moment. I have already sawn my gear lever down about 4-5", so with my tiny gear lever AND a short throw linkage.... Not so sure that would be ideal!!

[heeman10]

Dan's sold the QuickShift anyway!

[Xr_Dub]

My gear changes are smooth i wouldnt say its the fastest in changing
through the gears though, driving other people motors mines quite slow
never stop me though try a quickshift see how that works out for you
i hate them for daily drives buts that me after driving in a mk2 golf gti for a month or so 2 years ago...

[heeman10]

I thought your gearbox felt okay Atif, but there are definitely faster-shifting setups out there, and I don't necessarily mean heavily modified stuff, I mean standard, 100,000 mile XR2is and the like. It's not as though it's undriveable, it's probably better than the gearchange on most 4x4s, but I know these gearboxes are capable of accepting the fastest and slickest, gliding flicks of the lever to bat between all the gears, so that's what I'm aiming for.

[CRF]

James, on the subject of linkages, does your linkage have standard neutral return springs?

My linkage was brand new 5000 miles ago and was mint but seems like the return springs are fooked already. Read some where about replacing the standard springs with better one but cant remember where, think it may have been Excursion or someone that did a guide on it, any ideas?

Cheers
Chris

[heeman10]

It doesn't ring a bell I put new Ford springs in there, which do the trick I think. I'm gradually coming to the conclusion that my shortened gear lever won't be helping things, so am feeling a gear lever extension plus the Rally Design short throw kit. I hear what you're saying though Chris, I'm sure all sorts of other springs could be sourced

[CRF]

Maybe you're just cr@p at changing gear???!!!

Mine returns fine when you pop it out of say 5th, but if you pop it out of 1st the lever just stays over to the left if you get what I mean?

Got plenty of little jobs to do over the Xmas holidays so will have a proper look at it and see whats what then.

[heeman10]

Maybe you're just cr@p at changing gear???!!!

Do you have any idea how many people say that? I then have to pretend to find it slightly amusing or original, much like the Brucie gags

Mine returns fine when you pop it out of say 5th, but if you pop it out of 1st the lever just stays over to the left if you get what I mean?

Badly-adjusted linkage most likely, assuming the springs are ok.