fiestaturbo.com

[heeman10]

And a couple of pics of the interior because I'm so damn happy to have it all back in after over half a year! A few things to note: ACT gauge is missing from the centre pod because it is damaged, and being repaired pronto by Mike Rainbird, should be back next week. Rubber gear gaitor is on until the car's been mapped and I can fit the boost switch to the centre console, and I think I'll want to chop the gear lever down some more, depending on how slick the shift is on my new gearbox. The whole interior needs a damn good hoovering and cleaning, but nevetheless, it's a really good feeling to see it all back in and tidy again




And this is where the magic happens!

[TomRS1800]

Very special James!


Nice to see its looking clean!

[jdfiesta]

excellent, really coming on now.
JJ

[heeman10]

Cheers guys

Posted these pics in General, but I've found the reason the rear gearbox mount washer was so deformed:



The washer was far too big for the space it is meant to sit in, meaning that tightening the nut was squashing it and drawing the sides upwards. I couldn't see this happening when I originally fitted the mounts because I did it with the gearbox in the car, and the rear mount is practically invisible.

Grinding the sides of the washer down has allowed it to seat properly, so no more problems there!



Gearbox good to go:



Car should be running again tomorrow, which means I can clean it :D:D

[doggpk]

top job man.inspiring..

[FezzR]

The washer was far too big for the space it is meant to sit in, meaning that tightening the nut was squashing it and drawing the sides upwards. I couldn't see this happening when I originally fitted the mounts because I did it with the gearbox in the car, and the rear mount is practically invisible.

im not gonna say i told you so, but i think it did
can see now how easily it happened now tho, especially with its location

good to see things coming together again

[Richard_xr2i1800]

looking good mate, hope it all goes to plan

Rich

[heeman10]

The most difficult part of re-fitting the gearbox is over now, so tomorrow will see the remaining gearbox-engine bolts going in, gearbox cradle bolted up, gearbox filled with oil, turbo insulation kit fitted, suspension on, brakes on, wheels etc, a LOT of petrol put in and lots of cleaning

FezzR - I don't remember you saying anything along those lines...just one of those things. I was underneath the car working blind, so had no way of seeing it was such a poor fit. Deflex said they hadn't had any other cases like this, so either everyone else has been dumb too and not seen, or they've all got brains and saw it straight away

[FezzR]

i "think" (not very often) i said it probably happend when you tightend them up/ installation,

either way you found and fixed the problem thats the main thing

[andyhardy]

You didn't say they were the wrong shape though!

[FezzR]

You didn't say they were the wrong shape though!

actually i think you will find .... The farmers and dairys created a slow down in milk production by sending thousands of milkers to 'hamburger heaven' and reducing feed rations. This strategey was absolutely needed to allow them to save their farms. The perfect balance point for pricing is around $1.35 a pound for Block. Any less and the manufactures are in deep do do. Any time you see the Block price less than this grab you wallett and be ready to fork out more money. When the market comes back it comes with a vengence.



not that id change the subject or anything

[heeman10]

Go Mandy

[FezzR]

I WAS RIGHT I WAS RIGHT




well i have a good imagination

[heeman10]

Well then go imagine yourself some buddies and annoy them instead

[heeman10]

Update

I seem to be double-posting a bit, but good news has to be shared!

As anyone taking any interest in my grumblings of late will know, today I aimed to fit my new gearbox, replace all the suspension, brakes etc blah blah that need to come off when changing a gearbox. About half an hour ago I finished The 'box is silver and allows me to go round corners....that makes me a happy man!





There is, however, a damper on things - as usual! One of my coolant hoses is leaking - I think I can feel a split on the underside of it. And of course, it's not an easily-accessible top hose, it's a bugger of a hose at the bottom. So tomorrow I'll order a replacement, take off the intercooler and radiator *yawwwn* and heat wrap the exhaust housing on the turbo while the rad's off. It's a bit of a bugger really, as I wanted to be MOTing it tomorrow. That MSD deadline of July 16th is already feeling close

Here is a pic of the gimping hose that needs replacing:



Yes...it's the blue one...RIGHT at the bottom! Gayyyyyyyy.

Took it for a quick scrabble up the drive, I just had to Ahhh the chatter is so beautiful

[heeman10]

I've just taken off the intercooler and radiator and drained the coolant out to check the hose, and it's fine. I've been over and over it and can't find any damage that would cause what felt like a leak. The only other possibility is ovality at the clamping site....ie the hose is ruckling up at the top of the jubilee clip where the clamping surface isn't perfectly radiused. So I'll re-fit the hose with two opposed jubilee clips in the hope that that will stop the leak. It was a very slow leak, but one I certainly don't want!

Now the tacho is working I've been able to program the alarm to use Blackjax, so I feel much safer now lol Turbo will be heat wrapped this afternoon, then everything can go back on. The one remaining issue is the windscreen washers, which aren't working. I replaced the pump after foolishly damaging the top cap on the last one, and it's working off the stalk, but no water is coming through, so that needs investigating for the MOT.

[MotorcyclesFish]

ruckling

Stop making words up. It's not big and it's not intelligising.

BTW I hope you just tried doing the jubilee clips up tighter before dismantling half the car again...

[heeman10]

Update

I got everything back together (bar the bumper) just over an hour ago, and have been having fun and games bleeding the coolant system. It appears to be sorted now, but that damn idle problem is back It's trying to idle at 1,000rpm, then rising and falling either side of that. It was fine yesterday, though it didn't get up to temperature or anything yesterday.

Anyway, pics of today's work. The turbo insulation kit I got a few weeks ago is a pretty good fit where it needs to be, though I had to leave a flap underneath to clear the actuator. The real heat issue was at the front where the turbo's closest to the radiator, and it insulates from that just as it should.

Before:





During - Cutting the lag and mirror shield to size, and making a hole for the oil feed:



Threading in the tie straps - Woven into the mirror shield material:



And the finished article:







And with the rad back in:



I'm pretty happy with it. It looks ok, not overly pretty, but it should help me a bit.

The water hose was not split anywhere, so it is now back in place, with two diametrically opposed jubilee clips with some copper slip on their contact faces, in the hope that it'll stop any ruckling It has not leaked thus far....

The alternator tensioner arm was a strange shape when I got it. So I heated it up enough to bend it to the shape I wanted (to bring it parallel to the block) which left about a 5mm or so gap between the arm and the block. First time round, I foolishly (oh-so foolishly!! ) used a rubber spacer to bridge this gap, and tighten the arm against the block to keep the belt tight. The belt loosened off in the 30 miles I did previously, so I attacked that today too.

Bolt on the right, original rubber spacer (too soft, thin and perishable) and the spacer from an Austin Metro seat runner!



The end result. Obviously I won't be using the rubber spacer, it is just in this pic to show how distorted it became, and the required extra thickness from the metal spacer I made out of the Metro seat spacer block:



The alternator now tightens up very well, problem number three solved!

Problem number four was the fan switch which didn't work last time, and meant I had to hook the fans up on an ignition-switched live. That's all well and good for coolant temps, but with two high power fans on all the time, I wasn't sure the battery and alternator would feed them forever. So while the coolant system was dry, I took off the top hose and fan switch adaptor and swapped the switch for another I had. Hey presto, it works! The fans come on about a third of the way through "O" in NORM and brought the temp down to the top half of R in about a minute or so, standing still on a warm day. Problem number four solved!

The idle issue remains though, and I'm hoping it's down to a shocking A/F ratio. I increased the revs to about 3,000rpm, and it was stuttering a bit and STINKING of fuel. The turbo still spooled up and made it's lovely sounds on lift off as usual I don't want to fiddle with the mixture too much and have it run lean, so hopefully I can have an informed play at the MOT.

I think I'll make a video of it tonight to put up actually....watch this space!

[heeman10]

A crap vid of the car on axle stands, taken on my phone:

http://s12.yousendit.com/d.aspx?id=37OV ... CERZTLPTDQ

[sleeky]

mmmmmmmmmmmn chatter

Lee

[Max M4X WW]

Just downloading the vid, What do you want the idle at?

[heeman10]

Idle should be at 1,500 +/= about 50rpm IIRC, which it was doing perfectly yesterday when it was still quite cold. It did it today until the temps all came up to where they should be, then started hunting up and down I hope it's something simple like fuelling, I don't want MSD rates going on sorting out a crappy idle problem!

[Max M4X WW]

Whys it have to be that high?

[heeman10]

I thought that was about normal Got numbers all jumbled in my head, should it be 1,250rpm +/- 50rpm? No idea, I just want it at a quiet, non-resonating level that keeps it alive.

[FezzR]

the idles your quoting seem ok for fast idle (cold start) but most cars idle around the 900rpm point, id suspect idling problems to be air leak of some kind, but they can be a bugger to find and would speak to the mapper see if they are confident either way

[javablu]

Not sure whether it should idle higher because its a turbo or not but thats a high idle.

Mine idles at 700ish and cold start is 1100.

[Max M4X WW]

When mines warm its bang on 900, not a zetec i know. First starts at 1500ish then drops down to 1000 pretty much instantly unless its freezing.

[RS_Rawli]

mine idles at about 1300rpm nice and even when warm

about 1600 when cold


chatter sounds mad, how loud and deep

[heeman10]

lol Yeah, the chatter is pretty damn loud and deep! Remember the turbo's hardly spinning up there, was only revving it to 3,500rpm Was spitting a bit any higher than that, and minging so strongly of petrol. It sounded good idling at 1,500, I do suspect the injectors could be the root of the idling problem, really needs setting up.

[FedeArg]

James, do you have aftermarket cams on your engine or just standard cams?

If you have standard cams the warm idle speed should be 950 +/- 50 RPM's. When the car starts and the engine is cold (doesn't matter if it's winter or summer) the idle speed should be 1500 RPM's and two or three seconds later should be around 1100 RPM's until the engine is about 70ºC when it starts to idle at 950 +/- 50 RPM's

If you have aftermarket cams then it is possible that the idle speed is about 1200RPM's

Also congratullations for the former TDI beast (I'm still on the Diesel phase of my life )

[heeman10]

Thanks for the info It's on standard cams. I think injectors are probably the source of my problems, so I'll have to keep my fingers crossed that MSD can sort out the issue. I can feel a very very large bill coming on

[heeman10]

Update

The car is all back together now; bumper on, bonnet on, windscreen washers working etc, and the MOT is booked for 3pm tomorrow. I'd be happy if it weren't for the fuelling, idling and throttle problems I keep mentioning. The engine hasn't been set up in any way, shape or form for a long time, no less than a year. It has new, bigger injectors, possibly with different impedance to the beiges it used to run on. The plugs and leads may need replacing, who knows? I could throw about 300 quid at it all probably, and a lot of hours, replacing sensors, plugs, leads etc, and still have a car that won't drive or idle. Rather than doing that, I aim to trailer down to MSD now, rather than risk it with fuelling that is nowhere near where it should be. I am quite concerned about it now really.

Anyway, I'm going to give it a wash in a bit. Just gave it a bit of a hosing to loosen up 11 months of dust, flies and cobwebs (no joke!). The left hand opening rear window has leaked a bit, which isn't what I was wanting, hopefully I can stop that.

Here's a pic the night before the MOT, first time the whole lot's been back in one piece:



I love the look of it now, but it's hard to really enjoy everything I've done as a whole when the engine hasn't been seen to yet. Here's hoping it'll all be rosy once it's been to MSD

[RS_Rawli]

cut that plate down

[heeman10]

I don't want to give the 5-0 one more reason to pull me Could do a with short private plate really, give me better ACTs

[RS_Rawli]

perfectly legal mate, leave 11mm round the letters

just like mine