My MK2 Turbo

Post pics of your Fiesta here.

Postby xrt-mart on Wed Jun 28, 2006 1:20 pm

Got a few more parts through the post today :) ...

Manifold adaptor plate for ERST manifold - zetec (thanks to inaFRST :D )

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along with inlet and exhuast manifold gaskets.

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I have also got a new full sill with extension and inner sill for the n/s. Ive cut off the outer sill just need to work out how to repair the piece that follows on from the inner sill behing the trailing arm??

I will take pics of the body work later.

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Postby rich_frst on Wed Jun 28, 2006 1:50 pm

:o :o :D :D :D :D :wink:
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Postby xrt-mart on Fri Jun 30, 2006 12:00 am

had a bit more time today so here goes.

Took some of the surrounding parts off of the 2ltr engine so I could offer up the exhaust adaptor. There is so much crap on there :lol:

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fitted it on with a few bolts for trial

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then the turbo unit :D

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then theres the pics of the sill :cry: . Off with the old

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heres the new, but I will have to make up somthing for it to join to first :cry:

I might see if I can use my dad's garage to get busy with the grinder. The only problem is its 12 miles away. My neighbours are tossers always complaining about noise at night.

Thats it for now

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Postby rich_frst on Fri Jun 30, 2006 11:28 am

coming along nice fella :)
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Postby Sphinx on Fri Jun 30, 2006 12:01 pm

Woah thats a lot of rust, reminds me of my rolla colla when i took a rusty bit of sill off lol

Your oil separator looks a bit wierd though :-? Looks like the top corner has been chopped off.
Looks good though! :)
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Postby jayrs on Fri Jun 30, 2006 4:53 pm

fock the neighbours, as long as its not after 7.30pm they will have to put up with it, its not like they live next door to a grage is it.

coming on mate, will be nice to see if all done.

good luck with it mate
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Postby xrt-mart on Fri Jun 30, 2006 10:50 pm

There is a fair bit of rust on this side. I am doing this side first because it is the worst.

There isnt any after market oil seperators in the pics. Only the standard thing that fits to the front of the block.

jayrs I only get time after 7:30 really thats why I dont seem to get anything done. When I get going it is like a garage :lol: Compressor, air guns air rachets grinders etc....

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Postby jayrs on Fri Jun 30, 2006 11:19 pm

ah right, i see, bit of a bummer then :(

good luck with it anyway mate
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Postby niracka on Sat Jul 01, 2006 1:32 pm

looks good bud, wish i had the money, time and skills to get a project like this off the ground :( oh well soon

keep it up

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Postby xrt-mart on Wed Jul 12, 2006 10:17 pm

Ive been scrapping at the underside/wheel arch trying to remove the underseal off the car so I dont miss ANY of the rust.

Now at this point you notice how much rust is hidden on these cars :(
Im still not giving up though, even if it is slow and painfull. All im using is a scrapper and hot air gun because I can only work later on in the evening.

heres the progress (all work on N/S)...

front floor
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rear floor
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rear arch
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I also removed the fuel tank ( FC with swirl pot and hadrien sticker :blub: ) to gain access to the panels and chassis at the rear which require attention. I will get pics if anyone is interested.

Knowing when to stop is the question.

found this while cleaning today :cry: Im not sure if it can just be sandblasted and treated with rust killer then pained and sealed up again. What do you think?

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Its solid but can it be saved?

Looking a bit sad for its self now :( Anyone got a rot free shell?

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Postby jayrs on Wed Jul 12, 2006 10:42 pm

looking a bit grim on the rust front mate but if its solid then ya can save it, it depends how much work ya put into this, use good stuff (which you prob are anyway) grind and blast away as much as you can.

i was told ages ago that aluminium paint is great to use on rust, and ive used it in the past on rust, you got to prep it, like sand it, blast it etc and paint it on, the guy that told me about it was spot on, it worked a treat and the rust dont seem to come back.

wouldnt hurt to coat it in a rust killer first though.

carry on with the old girl, anything is savable if you want to do it, and some of the old cars ive seen and help restore in the past.....well if you think you got rust, you wanna work on a mk1 damilar jag thats been sat in a garage with no roof for 10 years!

keep it up mate, you got this far and i got faith in ya to carry on with it :D :D :D
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Postby paradox on Thu Jul 13, 2006 10:05 am

i remember taking the bottom of my fiesta shell to bare metal mate its not an easy task.

i used a wire brush on an angle gringer to remove most of the underseal then used a scotchbrite type pad on a drill to remove the primer.

where surface rust is showing on your car clean the rust up with a wire brush on an angle grinder then go over the top of it with 60 grit paper untill the surface is rust free and shiny.

Then press along the surface to see how thick/strong the remaining steel is.

if the screw driver pushes through or the steel seems unacceptably thin then that area will have to be cut out and a plate welded in flush(the welds can be tidied using a 40 grit sanding disc on a grinder and wont be visable once the new underseal has gone on)

If the steel is fine or you have welded a new plate once you have done all the areas on the bottom of the car then you need to spray the bottom of the car with 2 or 3 coats of etch primer then after that has dried then coat it with 2 or 3 coats of zinc rich primer(this will help prevent rust taking future hold)
Once you have got to this point you need to decide if you want the underneath to be full on bufty concourse or just hold the rot of for as long as possible.

if you want full on bufty concourse then you need to spray the bottom of the car in 3m sprayable sealer (its like anti stone chip) this then can be sprayed with 2 pack paint to match the same colour as the rest of the shell.

or for the preventing rust as much as possible route(this is the option i took with my fiesta) you need to spray the bottom of the car with waxoyl under body sealent and at this point it would also be wise to fill all the panel joins inside the door skins and cavitys and box sections with waxoyl cavity wax.

Your doing great so far though mate and i know how daunting it can be at times but stick with it and in the end you will have a great sense of achievement when you look at it and think to yourself i did that.


heres a pic of my fiesta from underneath to show how the waxoyl underbody seal looks when applied

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Postby rich_frst on Thu Jul 13, 2006 10:35 am

8) 8) 8) 8)
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Postby xrt-mart on Thu Jul 13, 2006 1:49 pm

Thanks for the encouragement and advice guys, much appreciated :)

As for the 3m sealant/stonechip do you know where to buy it from? We have the airgun for them at work but havent seen them for sale?

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Postby chris-fiesta on Thu Jul 13, 2006 4:24 pm

only thing you can do m8 is try, then if no joy re shell :cry:
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Postby jayrs on Thu Jul 13, 2006 7:02 pm

any auto paint place should have it or can get it.

halfords might even sell something like it but its gunna cost more than the auto paint supplier
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Postby paradox on Thu Jul 13, 2006 8:27 pm

jayrs :any auto paint place should have it or can get it.

halfords might even sell something like it but its gunna cost more than the auto paint supplier



what that man said :)
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Postby xrt-mart on Fri Jul 14, 2006 8:26 am

I was thinking about the proper 3M stuff. It comes in a twin packet that you split and spray with a special blow gun on your air line.

I spose I will get on to my motor factors to see how much it is.

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Postby jayrs on Fri Jul 14, 2006 10:13 pm

yeah its only a underseal gun ya need, there not very much to buy at all
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Postby xrt-mart on Sun Nov 12, 2006 12:25 am

Nearly forgot about this thread :lol:

I have been stalling on doing the shell because I dont know what to do. I might be in the game for a reshell into a base model but will have to wait and see.

anyway I have been doing odds and sods to the engine parts, mostly the inlet manifold. this is from a few weeks ago..

The manifold is normal 1.8 zetec the fuel rail is 2.0 S3 zetec I have cut off the mounting lugs and now it all lines up fine :) All that is needed now is to get some munsen rings and threaded bar from a DIY shop so it can be secured from the original position :wink:

Heres how it went (although very dirty as its been in the shed )

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fitting hole to line up munsen ring

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clearance for ISCV (maybe it will fit :lol: )

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and finaly all together

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Postby xrt-mart on Sun Nov 12, 2006 12:26 am

Anyways heres some pic's of the manifold now after a cleanup

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I have also had my CVH EFI flywheel drilled out for zetec and skimmed for flatness.

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Postby Stuie-Little on Sun Nov 12, 2006 12:35 am

WOW thats shiney..

Keep us updated :D
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Postby xrt-mart on Sun Nov 12, 2006 12:37 am

Cheers mate.

I will keep you updated :D
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Postby jayrs on Sun Nov 12, 2006 12:40 am

nice one mate, that mainfold looks the business.
not sure on the ISCV though :lol: :lol: worst case convert it to a remote one using the old ISCV
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Postby xrt-mart on Sun Nov 12, 2006 12:45 am

I think I just need 7-8mm milling off the manifold face and then it will fit. :) (hopefully :lol: )

I still need to make a provision for the base idle speed mixture screw. Im hoping to make a drilling into the front of the throttle housing and using a port already at the back of the manifold pipe air from front to back with a bleed valve to control the air passing through it.
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Postby jayrs on Sun Nov 12, 2006 12:49 am

cool, well dont forget about this post mate, keep them updates coming :)
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Postby xrt-mart on Sun Nov 12, 2006 12:50 am

:bonkers:
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Postby doggpk on Sun Nov 12, 2006 7:20 pm

coming along nicely man..keep going.. :Q
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Postby XRMike on Sun Nov 12, 2006 11:12 pm

Looking good mate.As regards to your flywheel, i done the same to mine(drilled the bolts out),
but i messed mine up,and fitted it back on wrongly, so be carefull,as they only go one one way for the ignition timing. :)
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Postby jayrs on Sun Nov 12, 2006 11:16 pm

lesson to be learnt, mark end of crank and fly whell prior to removing
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Postby XRMike on Sun Nov 12, 2006 11:20 pm

Tell me bout it :( :cry: :lol: :oops: :rolleyes: .I wasnt aware it'll knock the ignition timing out, in the end i had to fit a 1.8 zetec flywheel which luckly i had.
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Postby jayrs on Sun Nov 12, 2006 11:29 pm

i marked my one on my frst when i took it off, thing is i put it back right but the gap dont line up with the CPS on TDC, but its back on as it came off so fingers crossed and all that :lol: :lol:
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Postby xrt-mart on Sun Nov 12, 2006 11:47 pm

:lol:

I didnt take it off but im sure Ill work it out :bonkers:
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Postby jayrs on Mon Nov 13, 2006 1:01 am

like mine mate, its got 2 choices :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
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Postby xrt-mart on Mon Nov 13, 2006 1:04 am

It should be easy to work out with the head off :lol:
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