My MK2 Turbo
Got a few more parts through the post today ...
Manifold adaptor plate for ERST manifold - zetec (thanks to inaFRST )
along with inlet and exhuast manifold gaskets.
I have also got a new full sill with extension and inner sill for the n/s. Ive cut off the outer sill just need to work out how to repair the piece that follows on from the inner sill behing the trailing arm??
I will take pics of the body work later.
mart
Manifold adaptor plate for ERST manifold - zetec (thanks to inaFRST )
along with inlet and exhuast manifold gaskets.
I have also got a new full sill with extension and inner sill for the n/s. Ive cut off the outer sill just need to work out how to repair the piece that follows on from the inner sill behing the trailing arm??
I will take pics of the body work later.
mart
- xrt-mart
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- rich_frst
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- Your car: mk1 sierra cos, mk2 escort est
had a bit more time today so here goes.
Took some of the surrounding parts off of the 2ltr engine so I could offer up the exhaust adaptor. There is so much crap on there
fitted it on with a few bolts for trial
then the turbo unit
then theres the pics of the sill . Off with the old
heres the new, but I will have to make up somthing for it to join to first
I might see if I can use my dad's garage to get busy with the grinder. The only problem is its 12 miles away. My neighbours are tossers always complaining about noise at night.
Thats it for now
mart
Took some of the surrounding parts off of the 2ltr engine so I could offer up the exhaust adaptor. There is so much crap on there
fitted it on with a few bolts for trial
then the turbo unit
then theres the pics of the sill . Off with the old
heres the new, but I will have to make up somthing for it to join to first
I might see if I can use my dad's garage to get busy with the grinder. The only problem is its 12 miles away. My neighbours are tossers always complaining about noise at night.
Thats it for now
mart
- xrt-mart
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coming along nice fella
My ProjectS..
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viewtopic.php?t=97195&start=0
FORD SPARES - ENGINES-PANELS-TRIM ESCORT/FIESTA/SIERRA ETC RS/COSWORTH/XR
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- rich_frst
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- Your car: mk1 sierra cos, mk2 escort est
Woah thats a lot of rust, reminds me of my rolla colla when i took a rusty bit of sill off lol
Your oil separator looks a bit wierd though Looks like the top corner has been chopped off.
Looks good though!
Your oil separator looks a bit wierd though Looks like the top corner has been chopped off.
Looks good though!
You can use my car when you prise the keys out of my cold dead hands
- Sphinx
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fock the neighbours, as long as its not after 7.30pm they will have to put up with it, its not like they live next door to a grage is it.
coming on mate, will be nice to see if all done.
good luck with it mate
coming on mate, will be nice to see if all done.
good luck with it mate
- jayrs
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Car: 1991 Ford Fiesta RS Turbo
There is a fair bit of rust on this side. I am doing this side first because it is the worst.
There isnt any after market oil seperators in the pics. Only the standard thing that fits to the front of the block.
jayrs I only get time after 7:30 really thats why I dont seem to get anything done. When I get going it is like a garage Compressor, air guns air rachets grinders etc....
mart
There isnt any after market oil seperators in the pics. Only the standard thing that fits to the front of the block.
jayrs I only get time after 7:30 really thats why I dont seem to get anything done. When I get going it is like a garage Compressor, air guns air rachets grinders etc....
mart
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- jayrs
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Car: 1991 Ford Fiesta RS Turbo
Ive been scrapping at the underside/wheel arch trying to remove the underseal off the car so I dont miss ANY of the rust.
Now at this point you notice how much rust is hidden on these cars
Im still not giving up though, even if it is slow and painfull. All im using is a scrapper and hot air gun because I can only work later on in the evening.
heres the progress (all work on N/S)...
front floor
rear floor
rear arch
I also removed the fuel tank ( FC with swirl pot and hadrien sticker :blub: ) to gain access to the panels and chassis at the rear which require attention. I will get pics if anyone is interested.
Knowing when to stop is the question.
found this while cleaning today Im not sure if it can just be sandblasted and treated with rust killer then pained and sealed up again. What do you think?
Its solid but can it be saved?
Looking a bit sad for its self now Anyone got a rot free shell?
mart
Now at this point you notice how much rust is hidden on these cars
Im still not giving up though, even if it is slow and painfull. All im using is a scrapper and hot air gun because I can only work later on in the evening.
heres the progress (all work on N/S)...
front floor
rear floor
rear arch
I also removed the fuel tank ( FC with swirl pot and hadrien sticker :blub: ) to gain access to the panels and chassis at the rear which require attention. I will get pics if anyone is interested.
Knowing when to stop is the question.
found this while cleaning today Im not sure if it can just be sandblasted and treated with rust killer then pained and sealed up again. What do you think?
Its solid but can it be saved?
Looking a bit sad for its self now Anyone got a rot free shell?
mart
- xrt-mart
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looking a bit grim on the rust front mate but if its solid then ya can save it, it depends how much work ya put into this, use good stuff (which you prob are anyway) grind and blast away as much as you can.
i was told ages ago that aluminium paint is great to use on rust, and ive used it in the past on rust, you got to prep it, like sand it, blast it etc and paint it on, the guy that told me about it was spot on, it worked a treat and the rust dont seem to come back.
wouldnt hurt to coat it in a rust killer first though.
carry on with the old girl, anything is savable if you want to do it, and some of the old cars ive seen and help restore in the past.....well if you think you got rust, you wanna work on a mk1 damilar jag thats been sat in a garage with no roof for 10 years!
keep it up mate, you got this far and i got faith in ya to carry on with it
i was told ages ago that aluminium paint is great to use on rust, and ive used it in the past on rust, you got to prep it, like sand it, blast it etc and paint it on, the guy that told me about it was spot on, it worked a treat and the rust dont seem to come back.
wouldnt hurt to coat it in a rust killer first though.
carry on with the old girl, anything is savable if you want to do it, and some of the old cars ive seen and help restore in the past.....well if you think you got rust, you wanna work on a mk1 damilar jag thats been sat in a garage with no roof for 10 years!
keep it up mate, you got this far and i got faith in ya to carry on with it
- jayrs
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- Your car: FRST, XR2, ST170, ST225
Car: 1991 Ford Fiesta RS Turbo
i remember taking the bottom of my fiesta shell to bare metal mate its not an easy task.
i used a wire brush on an angle gringer to remove most of the underseal then used a scotchbrite type pad on a drill to remove the primer.
where surface rust is showing on your car clean the rust up with a wire brush on an angle grinder then go over the top of it with 60 grit paper untill the surface is rust free and shiny.
Then press along the surface to see how thick/strong the remaining steel is.
if the screw driver pushes through or the steel seems unacceptably thin then that area will have to be cut out and a plate welded in flush(the welds can be tidied using a 40 grit sanding disc on a grinder and wont be visable once the new underseal has gone on)
If the steel is fine or you have welded a new plate once you have done all the areas on the bottom of the car then you need to spray the bottom of the car with 2 or 3 coats of etch primer then after that has dried then coat it with 2 or 3 coats of zinc rich primer(this will help prevent rust taking future hold)
Once you have got to this point you need to decide if you want the underneath to be full on bufty concourse or just hold the rot of for as long as possible.
if you want full on bufty concourse then you need to spray the bottom of the car in 3m sprayable sealer (its like anti stone chip) this then can be sprayed with 2 pack paint to match the same colour as the rest of the shell.
or for the preventing rust as much as possible route(this is the option i took with my fiesta) you need to spray the bottom of the car with waxoyl under body sealent and at this point it would also be wise to fill all the panel joins inside the door skins and cavitys and box sections with waxoyl cavity wax.
Your doing great so far though mate and i know how daunting it can be at times but stick with it and in the end you will have a great sense of achievement when you look at it and think to yourself i did that.
heres a pic of my fiesta from underneath to show how the waxoyl underbody seal looks when applied
i used a wire brush on an angle gringer to remove most of the underseal then used a scotchbrite type pad on a drill to remove the primer.
where surface rust is showing on your car clean the rust up with a wire brush on an angle grinder then go over the top of it with 60 grit paper untill the surface is rust free and shiny.
Then press along the surface to see how thick/strong the remaining steel is.
if the screw driver pushes through or the steel seems unacceptably thin then that area will have to be cut out and a plate welded in flush(the welds can be tidied using a 40 grit sanding disc on a grinder and wont be visable once the new underseal has gone on)
If the steel is fine or you have welded a new plate once you have done all the areas on the bottom of the car then you need to spray the bottom of the car with 2 or 3 coats of etch primer then after that has dried then coat it with 2 or 3 coats of zinc rich primer(this will help prevent rust taking future hold)
Once you have got to this point you need to decide if you want the underneath to be full on bufty concourse or just hold the rot of for as long as possible.
if you want full on bufty concourse then you need to spray the bottom of the car in 3m sprayable sealer (its like anti stone chip) this then can be sprayed with 2 pack paint to match the same colour as the rest of the shell.
or for the preventing rust as much as possible route(this is the option i took with my fiesta) you need to spray the bottom of the car with waxoyl under body sealent and at this point it would also be wise to fill all the panel joins inside the door skins and cavitys and box sections with waxoyl cavity wax.
Your doing great so far though mate and i know how daunting it can be at times but stick with it and in the end you will have a great sense of achievement when you look at it and think to yourself i did that.
heres a pic of my fiesta from underneath to show how the waxoyl underbody seal looks when applied
- paradox
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viewtopic.php?t=97195&start=0
FORD SPARES - ENGINES-PANELS-TRIM ESCORT/FIESTA/SIERRA ETC RS/COSWORTH/XR
rich
07834862431
viewtopic.php?t=97195&start=0
FORD SPARES - ENGINES-PANELS-TRIM ESCORT/FIESTA/SIERRA ETC RS/COSWORTH/XR
rich
07834862431
- rich_frst
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- chris-fiesta
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any auto paint place should have it or can get it.
halfords might even sell something like it but its gunna cost more than the auto paint supplier
halfords might even sell something like it but its gunna cost more than the auto paint supplier
- jayrs
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Car: 1991 Ford Fiesta RS Turbo
- jayrs
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Car: 1991 Ford Fiesta RS Turbo
Nearly forgot about this thread
I have been stalling on doing the shell because I dont know what to do. I might be in the game for a reshell into a base model but will have to wait and see.
anyway I have been doing odds and sods to the engine parts, mostly the inlet manifold. this is from a few weeks ago..
The manifold is normal 1.8 zetec the fuel rail is 2.0 S3 zetec I have cut off the mounting lugs and now it all lines up fine All that is needed now is to get some munsen rings and threaded bar from a DIY shop so it can be secured from the original position
Heres how it went (although very dirty as its been in the shed )
fitting hole to line up munsen ring
clearance for ISCV (maybe it will fit )
and finaly all together
I have been stalling on doing the shell because I dont know what to do. I might be in the game for a reshell into a base model but will have to wait and see.
anyway I have been doing odds and sods to the engine parts, mostly the inlet manifold. this is from a few weeks ago..
The manifold is normal 1.8 zetec the fuel rail is 2.0 S3 zetec I have cut off the mounting lugs and now it all lines up fine All that is needed now is to get some munsen rings and threaded bar from a DIY shop so it can be secured from the original position
Heres how it went (although very dirty as its been in the shed )
fitting hole to line up munsen ring
clearance for ISCV (maybe it will fit )
and finaly all together
- xrt-mart
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- Stuie-Little
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nice one mate, that mainfold looks the business.
not sure on the ISCV though worst case convert it to a remote one using the old ISCV
not sure on the ISCV though worst case convert it to a remote one using the old ISCV
- jayrs
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Car: 1991 Ford Fiesta RS Turbo
I think I just need 7-8mm milling off the manifold face and then it will fit. (hopefully )
I still need to make a provision for the base idle speed mixture screw. Im hoping to make a drilling into the front of the throttle housing and using a port already at the back of the manifold pipe air from front to back with a bleed valve to control the air passing through it.
I still need to make a provision for the base idle speed mixture screw. Im hoping to make a drilling into the front of the throttle housing and using a port already at the back of the manifold pipe air from front to back with a bleed valve to control the air passing through it.
- xrt-mart
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- jayrs
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Car: 1991 Ford Fiesta RS Turbo
Looking good mate.As regards to your flywheel, i done the same to mine(drilled the bolts out),
but i messed mine up,and fitted it back on wrongly, so be carefull,as they only go one one way for the ignition timing.
but i messed mine up,and fitted it back on wrongly, so be carefull,as they only go one one way for the ignition timing.
- XRMike
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- jayrs
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Car: 1991 Ford Fiesta RS Turbo
Tell me bout it .I wasnt aware it'll knock the ignition timing out, in the end i had to fit a 1.8 zetec flywheel which luckly i had.
- XRMike
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i marked my one on my frst when i took it off, thing is i put it back right but the gap dont line up with the CPS on TDC, but its back on as it came off so fingers crossed and all that
- jayrs
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Car: 1991 Ford Fiesta RS Turbo
- jayrs
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