fiestaturbo.com

[dannyboy]

That coolant hose was something I was thinking about the other day, mine is blanked off but after reading Al's post I will connect it up before I get mine running. I was going to get a long piece of silicone hose and run it along the front valance, poss between the rad and i/c, secured with stainless p-clips, should prevent the heat from turbo and downpipe affecting it. Engine looks like its coming along nicely.

Dan

[StreetDragster]

Cheers For you comments Dan, i'm hopefully putting the turbo on this weekend, so i'll get some good pics and i'll get some pics of that water pipe i'm trying to make too, might be a good idea if you can manufacture up something similar to improve your warm up cycle.

Thanks

Matt

[slikpip]

thats the bollix mate!!!

just a quick question for you,

which oil pressure switch will you connect up when you put it in?

does it matter which?

i've had a 2.1 ze-vh built for mine and i'm gunna start puttin it back together and i'm not sure if it matters which one to hook up

good luck with the rest of the build.

[StreetDragster]

Hi mate,

On my build i connect up to the oil pressure switch closest to the oil filter, the other one is really only there to plug a hole in the turbo's oil feed line.
Glad you like my build diary

Thanks

Matt

[slikpip]

sweet as, thanx for that buddy.

that was the one i was going to use but just wanted to ask someone else who will be in the same position.

i'll let you know when mines all finished and i'll come over to blackpool one weekend for a look at yours if thats ok?

mine should be done for usc at the pod on 6th of august. you going?

[StreetDragster]

No problem Pal, would be cool to meet up.
Don't think i'm going to USC this year, may have a prior engagement that weekend.

Thanks

Matt

[StreetDragster]

Today’s instalment-

EDIT: Please visit http://www.streetdragster.com for guide

[M4RK Si]

how much has this all cost you so far?

Get so more pics up

[StreetDragster]

I wouldn't like to hazard a guess mate, ZT's definately need plenty £££ if your going to do it properly and what it to be reliable. Its the little things like gaskets, nuts, bolts, washers, bit of machining here, bit of pipe fabrication there that really hikes up your budget, i'd say a good 1/3 - 1/2 of my total cost has not been major equipment.

Thanks

Matt

[chris-fiesta]

FFFFWWWWOOOOOAAAARRRRRHHHHHH!!!!

Thats all i gotta say, cant wait till im old enough to own a frst.
fcukin insurance:x

[dannyboy]

How clean. Which clutch do intend using out of interest? I bought both zetec and cvh plates as I also run a frst box, was going to use a knock up of the two but found there was only a small gap using just the zetec shim.

Dan

[StreetDragster]

How clean. Which clutch do intend using out of interest? I bought both zetec and cvh plates as I also run a frst box, was going to use a knock up of the two but found there was only a small gap using just the zetec shim.

Dan

Hi Dan,

I'm using an AP 4 Paddle at the moment, thats what was in my FRST before i destroyed the piston rings on the 1600 engine, once i've worn that out i'm thinking of going for an Alcon 6 Paddle as per IanFRST suggestions. I had a damage spacer plate that came with my Zetec engine so i couldn't really use it, but if i had knwn about what a ballache it is to make one, i would have bought a new one!!

Thanks

Matt

[StreetDragster]

Well, todays update is quite a milestone for me mentally.

EDIT: Please visit http://www.streetdragster.com for guide

Thanks

Matt

[dannyboy]

Have to say I love the colour scheme, the blue and white looks quality, how thick is that plate, could it not be skimed to give more clearance between the rad etc? I have a t34 and have loads of room between the turbo and rad and downpipe and crossmember.
When I dropped my engine in I removed both manifolds, alternator and starter and lowered it in, went in no probs. Im sure graham at GRS could sort out the rad, I remember when Stoned had a leak in his and graham fixed it. As for the bonnet pins, they dont look so bad

[StreetDragster]

Hi Danny,

Thanks for the comments on the colour scheme, it should look great with blue samco pipes too!
I was trying to keep the standard look at the front, so i didn't want to move the bonnet catch, i measured from the engine mount to the furthest point ont he turbo, and then measured the same on the car, i knew it was going to be tight, but not as tight as i thought as the engine must sit at a different angle in the car. the plate as around 3/4-1" thick, but this is the problem, it cannot be machined down, as the studs are threaded into it, and reduction in plate thickness would give less thread engagement for the studs and possible cause them to fail. however, if a one side of the plate was machined at an angle, to point the turbo a touch more towards the engine, clearance may be improved. Definately something for me to think about.
About the water pipe from the thermostat housing to the water pump, i couldn't get a pipe under the exhaust manifold properly, there was nothing to support it too, so i'm going to fit a turbo heat sheild, and run it over the top of the exhast manifold, next to the cam cover and see if that works, using copper pipe across the 'hot bit'.

Thanks

Matt

[chumkila]

Fabulous project Matt. Once again, excellent. Can't wait until its near completion when it hits the roads.

[Hartza]

Am I blind, but where is the front engine mount over the alternator? Is there going to be 1? In my Zetec there´s a alternator mounted in the same cast iron piece than the front engine mount. You can see 2 empty bolt holes over your alternator.

That is brobably CVHs alternator braket?

[StreetDragster]

Think your car must have a Zetec-R engine mate, the Zetec-E which is fitted has engine mounts int he same place as the CVH, the Zetec-R engine has engine mounts in a different place.
The engine came from a Mondeo, which was fitted with power steering and the power steering pump fitted to a large steel bracket which bolts to those spare holes above the alternator. My FRST doesnt need it so i used the FRSt alternator.

Thanks

Matt

[dannyboy]

As far as I knew all zetecs had a front mount, my car is a 2i 16v so had everything needed to bolt it straight up, only problem is neither the turbo or zetec coolant hoses fit as the mount is in the way so will have to get some custom ones made up.

[Hartza]

Think your car must have a Zetec-R engine mate, the Zetec-E which is fitted has engine mounts int he same place as the CVH, the Zetec-R engine has engine mounts in a different place.
The engine came from a Mondeo, which was fitted with power steering and the power steering pump fitted to a large steel bracket which bolts to those spare holes above the alternator. My FRST doesnt need it so i used the FRSt alternator.

Thanks

Matt

here´s a pic on my engine, as you can see there are 3 bolts under the dipstick. Nevermind the rusty pipe over the engine

[mrviper]

just a quickie question

i have had my head drilled to take the cvh manifold so i dont need a spacer/adapter

if i have the surface of the cyl head and manifold skimmed to save space between the turbo and radiator

do you think this would help much?

[andyhardy]

just a quickie question

i have had my head drilled to take the cvh manifold so i dont need a spacer/adapter

if i have the surface of the cyl head and manifold skimmed to save space between the turbo and radiator

do you think this would help much?

I've had a T3 fitted to my car and it basically took alot of fettling with the radiator.

I have my bonnet raised at the back as my engine is taller now and the bracket has been modified at the front which also helped with rad positioning.

How long now before it's going to be running then Matt?

Keep up the good work!

Cheers,

Andy

[StreetDragster]

just a quickie question

i have had my head drilled to take the cvh manifold so i dont need a spacer/adapter

if i have the surface of the cyl head and manifold skimmed to save space between the turbo and radiator

do you think this would help much?

It would help mate, every little bit helps!!! Its a really really tight squeeze at the front, which is why i'm trying to take as many coolant pipes and wires that i can round the back, but you may end up having to ditch the bonnet catch like i have had to, to get the clearance on the radiator.

How long now before it's going to be running then Matt?

Keep up the good work!

Cheers,

Andy

Not sure at the moment mate, loads of partsa are on order, like custom pipes, custom breather tank, and then the rad has been sent off due to damaging it with the radiator so i'm waiting for that to come back etc etc. Then i have all the other crappy jobs like extending this and that wire by 6" and stuff, and its those little jobs that really take the time!!
Although, i hopefully will be turning the key by the end of August, assuming everything arrives on time. Fingers Crossed!!

Thanks

Matt

[Ian C70T5]

i spaced my cross member down by the same amount the engine was spaced by.

fitted perfecty

[StreetDragster]

Hi Ian,

i spaced my cross member down by the same amount the engine was spaced by.

fitted perfecty

I've not fitted my cross member yet, i meant the crossover pipe was close to the bonnet , but i have identical spacers for the crossmember as i got for the engine, aswell as longer bolts.

Thanks

Matt

[Ian C70T5]

Hi Ian,

i spaced my cross member down by the same amount the engine was spaced by.

fitted perfecty

I've not fitted my cross member yet, i meant the crossover pipe was close to the bonnet , but i have identical spacers for the crossmember as i got for the engine, aswell as longer bolts.

Thanks

Matt

Nice one.. I think mine was close, BUT i used the competition Vibratechnic engine mounts and the engine did not move much even on full throttle.. Asl long as you close the bonnet you'll be ok.

I think it was about 1/2 a fingers depth between the bonnet vent and the pulley cover

[mrviper]

im going to use my pipe from the 57i kit so if the engine kicks up the rubber squashes and dont make a dent in the middle of my bonnet

i can also turn it the other way so i can have a long intercooler with a pipe each end of the radiator top mounted cosie intercooler maybe?

not rearly looked in to this properly yet

also playing with the idea of one of them trust electrical inlet manifolds

do u think std intercooler would be ok for 10 psi because im not rearly aiming to go any more unlill a later date.

maybe fit 2 intercoolers in there if i move the battery

just pondering at the moment because im only at the stage where the blocks being drilled :O

[StreetDragster]

Hi Mate,

Seems an awful lot of work for 10psi of boost, what are you aiming for long term?
Not sure about reversing the crossover pipe, what you could try and do is see if you can pursude Pace to let you have one of there crossover pipes for the ERST when they do the big intercooler conversion, pace have made a crossover pipe which goes to the left rather than the right. Might take a bit of work to adapt to a FRST though.
No idea about a Trust Electrical Inlet manifold, whats one of them? If i was doing it again i would definately be going down the Rover inlet manifold route.
You could probably fit two intercoolers, think Excursion fitted two on one of his cars from his we3bsite, cant remember exactly though.

Thanks

Matt

[StreetDragster]

A little bit of an update........

EDIT: Please visit http://www.streetdragster.com for guide

Thanks

Matt

[mrviper]

looking good sir!

im using a decomp plate so its not too much hard work and the car had already been converted to a 2.0 n/a and head drilled to fit the cvh xr2i manifold and water and oil pump converted so it just needs the breathers doing and plate fitting and swap the rad for a turbo items and add a intercooler of some sort

i already have the omex 500 ecu and full loom (with 2 bar map sensor) converted fuel rail and 4 cosie yellows with a v6 throttle body so i think im going to have a fiarly easy time as all this was fitted before the turbo

i think a 2.0 with 10 psi should be nippy enough for a fiesta but nothing to stop me bumping boost up at a later date with mappable ignition

i have been looking in to vauxhall turbo pistons but cant get a propper answer as to exactly is involved and forged pistons would eat my mapping budget

as you may tell im trying to do a budget job

sorry im waffleing you to death

at least you got an idea what im doing now

i would love to come over and see for my self
looks great what you have done but i bet you live 9 milion miles away from me he he he

[StreetDragster]

Cool, sounds like you've got an easy life then!!!
Vauxhall Pistons can be used, as long as they are the Mahle ones from a calibra turbo i believe, and i think you have to have the Zetec conrods little ends opened up to take the Vauxhall pins, and block bored to take them as i think thye are 86mm diameter (Don't quote me though!). My friend is putting some up on Ebay very soon if your interested, i'll post the Ebay link here when he has.
If you want to come and see the car mate it will probably be attending some shows late this year or early next year, or you could come over to Blackpool if you'ed like.
It'll be great aslong as it starts!!!!!

Thanks

Matt

[StreetDragster]

Here's those Calibra Turbo forged pistons i mentioned before........

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... 94172&rd=1

Thanks

Matt

[Rolls]

looks spankingly good matey!
can't wait to see this on the road!

[StreetDragster]

looks spankingly good matey!
can't wait to see this on the road!

Neither can i mate!!!! Getting bored of having it in my garage!!!
Currently making some red/white/red rear clusters, this foliatec spray is drving me nuts, its so thin it practically runs out of the can!!

Thanks

Matt

[krsi]

Have you tried putting the cans in some hot water for a few minutes? Should make it easier as there is more pressure in the can.