My Zetec Turbo Build *Abandoned Project*
Excursion :Nice work Matt, nice work. The mileage wasn't a guess
LOL I hadn't actually read that met, I just stare at the pics for ages You can usually tell from the varnish how many miles an engine has done.
Keep up the fantastic work!
- Excursion
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Car: 1990 Ford Fiesta XR2i
Excursion :You can usually tell from the varnish how many miles an engine has done.
You big gay Southerner
- heeman10
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Looking great matey
Just a couple of things to quiz you with, How are you fitting the the FRST water hose to the water pump as it hasnt been modded? Are you lowering the engine 10mm for clearence to stop the crossover hitting the bonnet? Unsure about this one but, Are you using an RS1800 sump so the zorst clears? i maybe wrong on that so might be worth asking other peeps
Just tryin to help dude
Just a couple of things to quiz you with, How are you fitting the the FRST water hose to the water pump as it hasnt been modded? Are you lowering the engine 10mm for clearence to stop the crossover hitting the bonnet? Unsure about this one but, Are you using an RS1800 sump so the zorst clears? i maybe wrong on that so might be worth asking other peeps
Just tryin to help dude
- MOONDUST FRST
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Alright mate,
WaterPump Pipe
Measure this on thursday night and found out they were different diameters, not sure what i'm going to do about it just yet, probably some sort of hose reducer of something
Lowering the Engine
Yep, lowering it 12mm by using 12mm thick blocks of steel between the gearbox cradle and the chassis, and again at the suspension crossmember and chassis, i have 12mm longer high tensile M12 bolts to allow this
Sump
Using the 1800cc Zetec fiesta sump, dont think it came from an RS1800, but its defo from a 1800 zetec engined fiesta
If you have any tips please let me know
Thanks
Matt
WaterPump Pipe
Measure this on thursday night and found out they were different diameters, not sure what i'm going to do about it just yet, probably some sort of hose reducer of something
Lowering the Engine
Yep, lowering it 12mm by using 12mm thick blocks of steel between the gearbox cradle and the chassis, and again at the suspension crossmember and chassis, i have 12mm longer high tensile M12 bolts to allow this
Sump
Using the 1800cc Zetec fiesta sump, dont think it came from an RS1800, but its defo from a 1800 zetec engined fiesta
If you have any tips please let me know
Thanks
Matt
- StreetDragster
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Ok mate was just tryin to point out probs earlier than later if ya get me
You can use a reducer but the best way by far is to get the cvh alloy outlet cut off and rewelded to the zetec one or if a local engineering firm can source a alloy hose tail to weld on that will do the less jubilee clips the better as less chance of leaks! Easier to do it now while the engines out
Let me know if ya come across any othe probs as i cant think of anymore at the mo
You can use a reducer but the best way by far is to get the cvh alloy outlet cut off and rewelded to the zetec one or if a local engineering firm can source a alloy hose tail to weld on that will do the less jubilee clips the better as less chance of leaks! Easier to do it now while the engines out
Let me know if ya come across any othe probs as i cant think of anymore at the mo
- MOONDUST FRST
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Great stuff, thanks for that, its a really good idea, i have a spare CVH water pump too which i can butcher, i'll speak to a local welder and let you (and everyone else know how i got on)
Thanks
Matt
Thanks
Matt
- StreetDragster
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No dramas, just use the Zetec bottom hose and t-piece the turbo water feed (which comes from the bottom of the rad) into the side entrance, then t-piece the turbo water return into the hot-crossover from the front of the thermostat housing. Stick with the Zetec water pump.
Make sure you use a proper FRST IAT sensor.
You should have a second breather port on the block as far away from the existing one as possible.
Fuel rail looks a work of art
Fan switch will need to be drilled and tapped into the hot side of the rad - I used a conical hole cutter to get it just undersize, then screwed the sensor in with a blob of silicone sealant. You can use a Mk6 Escort top hose instead if you'd rather as they also have the fan switch in them afaik.
Good luck with it all
Al
Make sure you use a proper FRST IAT sensor.
You should have a second breather port on the block as far away from the existing one as possible.
Fuel rail looks a work of art
Fan switch will need to be drilled and tapped into the hot side of the rad - I used a conical hole cutter to get it just undersize, then screwed the sensor in with a blob of silicone sealant. You can use a Mk6 Escort top hose instead if you'd rather as they also have the fan switch in them afaik.
Good luck with it all
Al
<< I need to put something here, yer? >>
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- fiftyoneCL
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what a fantastic thread! keep up the good work mate, best of luck with the engine.
I know what i'll be reading when mine's getting done.
JJ
I know what i'll be reading when mine's getting done.
JJ
My ebay stuff http://shop.ebay.co.uk/merchant/2.0zetec
Is that the best you can do?
www.volvot5.co.uk - www.germanshepherdsuk.co.uk
2000 V70 T5 SE - 2.3, 5 cylinder, 20V, VVT, Turbo, 250bhp, cream leather, climate control, the works!
Is that the best you can do?
www.volvot5.co.uk - www.germanshepherdsuk.co.uk
2000 V70 T5 SE - 2.3, 5 cylinder, 20V, VVT, Turbo, 250bhp, cream leather, climate control, the works!
- jdfiesta
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No dramas, just use the Zetec bottom hose and t-piece the turbo water feed (which comes from the bottom of the rad) into the side entrance, then t-piece the turbo water return into the hot-crossover from the front of the thermostat housing. Stick with the Zetec water pump.
Another good idea here to add to my list, so far i have the choice of the welding of the cvh hose outlet onto the zetec water pump, getting a reducing silcone hose from the zetec water pump to a hose joiner then interfacing it with the FRST bottom hose, or the new zetec bottom hose tee piece setup. I'll have a think, thanks very much for your comments and tips they are all greatly recieved.
Make sure you use a proper FRST IAT sensor.
The one that is usually screwed into the RHS of the FRST inlet manifold?? Conical and black, sometimes screwed into an adaptor? If so, yep, sorted, screwed into the back of the etec inlet manifold, right next to my aftermarket ACT gauge sensor.
You should have a second breather port on the block as far away from the existing one as possible.
Ah, didn't know i needed two, though one 16mm diameter one in the crankcase would be enough. Might have to think about that one quite hard, and maybe try and drill and tap it in situ (on the stand) with a magnet to assist in collecting swarf
Fuel rail looks a work of art
Thanks! Doesn't look quite as good now, had to be 'tweaked' with a small hammer to clear the ISCV, but onyl a little bit, i have an adjustable FPR so the change in fuel pressure can be compensated for
Fan switch will need to be drilled and tapped into the hot side of the rad - I used a conical hole cutter to get it just undersize, then screwed the sensor in with a blob of silicone sealant. You can use a Mk6 Escort top hose instead if you'd rather as they also have the fan switch in them afaik.
I actually have just got back from the local hydraulics shop, he welded me a M22 nut onto a 32mm hose joinerand then drilled the hole in the centre of the nut out, so i can screw the fan switch into that
Good luck with it all
Al
Thanks! I need as much luck as i can get!
Thanks to all for their comments
Matt
- StreetDragster
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I would say 'brilliant read' but i havent really read much, just stared at the pretty pics
I'll read it l8er
Good work m8, keep it up!
I'll read it l8er
Good work m8, keep it up!
You can use my car when you prise the keys out of my cold dead hands
- Sphinx
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StreetDragster :Make sure you use a proper FRST IAT sensor.
The one that is usually screwed into the RHS of the FRST inlet manifold?? Conical and black, sometimes screwed into an adaptor? If so, yep, sorted, screwed into the back of the etec inlet manifold, right next to my aftermarket ACT gauge sensor.
Err, afaik (but I may be wrong) always screwed into an adaptor - if it's not, it's almost certainly an n/a sensor Confirm with Excursion or Snake
Al
<< I need to put something here, yer? >>
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- fiftyoneCL
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Hi Everyone,
Just spoken to Dell @ Kent Cams (Uk Distrubuters of ARP) and my bolts that i need are out for delivery today, so hopefully i should be able to get cracking next week and get some more updates for everyone. Also, got some Fiesta Frenzy cams and valve springs to go in so i need to strip the head down again and put them in, plus i need to take a bit out the head for the cam lobe clearance.
Next week i'm hopefully going to have following done so if you need any specific pictures let me know BEFORE i do it-
Second Breather port made up and fixed into the back of the crankcase
Have spacer plates made up for the cradle and crossmember
Fit the standard FRST blue injectors into the inlet manifold for running in purposes as suggested by MSD
Fit the conrod bolts
Sump on
Strip down, build up the head and fit to the block, torque down and time up
Cam cover on
Inlet manifold attached
Mount cross over pipe somehow, maybe have dump valve take off welded onto it
Measure up and order breather tank
Measure up and order hoses for breather tank, water system, and fuel system.
Ready the car to take the engine, fit guage senders, run cabling, tidy up engine bay prior to engine fitment, clean everything.
Busy week coming up!
Thanks
Matt
Just spoken to Dell @ Kent Cams (Uk Distrubuters of ARP) and my bolts that i need are out for delivery today, so hopefully i should be able to get cracking next week and get some more updates for everyone. Also, got some Fiesta Frenzy cams and valve springs to go in so i need to strip the head down again and put them in, plus i need to take a bit out the head for the cam lobe clearance.
Next week i'm hopefully going to have following done so if you need any specific pictures let me know BEFORE i do it-
Second Breather port made up and fixed into the back of the crankcase
Have spacer plates made up for the cradle and crossmember
Fit the standard FRST blue injectors into the inlet manifold for running in purposes as suggested by MSD
Fit the conrod bolts
Sump on
Strip down, build up the head and fit to the block, torque down and time up
Cam cover on
Inlet manifold attached
Mount cross over pipe somehow, maybe have dump valve take off welded onto it
Measure up and order breather tank
Measure up and order hoses for breather tank, water system, and fuel system.
Ready the car to take the engine, fit guage senders, run cabling, tidy up engine bay prior to engine fitment, clean everything.
Busy week coming up!
Thanks
Matt
- StreetDragster
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sounds like you;ve got a very busy week man. good luck though mate, topic is making fantastic reading!
JJ
JJ
My ebay stuff http://shop.ebay.co.uk/merchant/2.0zetec
Is that the best you can do?
www.volvot5.co.uk - www.germanshepherdsuk.co.uk
2000 V70 T5 SE - 2.3, 5 cylinder, 20V, VVT, Turbo, 250bhp, cream leather, climate control, the works!
Is that the best you can do?
www.volvot5.co.uk - www.germanshepherdsuk.co.uk
2000 V70 T5 SE - 2.3, 5 cylinder, 20V, VVT, Turbo, 250bhp, cream leather, climate control, the works!
- jdfiesta
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I had to get them from Focus Central whilst i was over there with work mate, and then bring them back in my suitcase
Thanks
Matt
Thanks
Matt
- StreetDragster
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EDIT: Please visit http://www.streetdragster.com for guide
More to follow, probably tomorrow
Thanks
Matt
More to follow, probably tomorrow
Thanks
Matt
Last edited by StreetDragster on Thu Apr 28, 2005 11:42 pm, edited 1 time in total.
- StreetDragster
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Good work, bet you cant wait for it to be finished. Is that a Sytec cossie fuel pump in the 5th picture down, have you had any trouble wiring it up, ive just received mine but the connections are different, the only way around it is to hard wire, but dont know how safe that would be.
Dan
Dan
- dannyboy
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Hi Dan,
In the 5th pic down its a power boost valve with -6JIC connection to match my rail, but the car does have a standard escort cosworth fuel pump in, the connections were different so i soldered the wires together, and used heatshrink to seal the joints, haven't had any problems so far.
Damn right i cant wait for it to be finished! I awant my car back!!
Thanks
Matt
In the 5th pic down its a power boost valve with -6JIC connection to match my rail, but the car does have a standard escort cosworth fuel pump in, the connections were different so i soldered the wires together, and used heatshrink to seal the joints, haven't had any problems so far.
Damn right i cant wait for it to be finished! I awant my car back!!
Thanks
Matt
- StreetDragster
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StreetDragster :Next i had a fan switch adaptor made up to hold the standard FRST fan switch in the water flow into the radiator top hose. This is a 32mm diamter hose joiner, with a M22x1.5 nut welded onto it, and then the hole in the centre drilled and filed out so the water can get to the sensing element.
One way is to use 92-> Escorts (With Zetec engine) top radiator hose, it has factory build place for fan switch. It is bit too long for Fiesta, but you can easily cut it.
It cost me 25€ in local Ford dealer
- Hartza
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Cheers Mate, thats a great thing to know if anyone is going to try and do another zetec turbo following this guide, if i was to do another one i'd probably use one of those hoses, its alot of pi$$ing about to grind the welds back and everything on my adaptor
Thanks again
Matt
Thanks again
Matt
- StreetDragster
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Last edited by StreetDragster on Thu Apr 28, 2005 11:42 pm, edited 1 time in total.
- StreetDragster
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You put on there you use the 1800cc water pump because the 2000cc one spins the other way, this is not quite right mate
The 1800cc one has a different angled port so it fits in the car better, it wont spin a different way.
I used the Mondeo Zetec Alternator, this is an 90amp one, perhaps it might be worth looking into using that mate as its much much better..
Build does look like its going well mate, well done
The 1800cc one has a different angled port so it fits in the car better, it wont spin a different way.
I used the Mondeo Zetec Alternator, this is an 90amp one, perhaps it might be worth looking into using that mate as its much much better..
Build does look like its going well mate, well done
- Ian C70T5
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Cheers Ian, points noted and i'll dig out my Zetec alternator and see about fitting that
Thanks
Matt
Thanks
Matt
- StreetDragster
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Last edited by StreetDragster on Thu Apr 28, 2005 11:42 pm, edited 1 time in total.
- StreetDragster
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Last edited by StreetDragster on Thu Apr 28, 2005 11:43 pm, edited 1 time in total.
- StreetDragster
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