New disks nearly killed me!!!!
10 posts • Page 1 of 1
Bonjourno,<br><br>I spent a large wedge getting vented drilled + grooved disks and fast road pads on my Si the other day. Testing them out from 90mph when I realsied the traffic around the corner had stopped and I might not be having dinner with my folks for a few days. The rear end swung out to the left, so I steered into it and it flipped out to the right!!! It eventually sorted itself out and I went home for dinner as planned. I know that it is because all the weight goes forward and the back becomes too light. So I have been told by different people to go for rear disk conversion, or to get RS1800 drums on the rear as they are bigger. Which is the best? Will it stop it from doing it?? How much ££££? And is it a garage job, or a saturday afternoon with my mates????<br>Cheers
- Paul C
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DONT BOTHER WITH THE DISK THINGY ! OR THE DRUM THING !<br>CHEK THAT THE SHOES IN THE DRUMS R OK . SECONDLY IT'S YOURE OWN FOLT FOR BRAKING ROUND A CORNER AS DISCS OR NO DISCS THE BACK WILL CUM ROUND .<br>3RD a*** END ACKTION ! Y DO U WONT TO GET RID OF IT . R U A MAN OR MOUSE ?
- RS1800I
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Did the rear end lock up, if so you may need to fit bias valves to the system to lower the pressure that goes to the rear brakes, or your compensators are knakered. Try braking hard in a straight line and see if it still does it(make sure its a clear road!!), if it doesn`t then don`t brake rould corners!!<br>
- snake
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Easier answers are available:-<br><br>(1) Install a massive sound system in the boot. The extra weight will add grip to the rear and you will no longer lose the car's behind... you'll just not stop in time.<br><br>(2) On a similar theme, cheaper than an ICE install is a fat bird (no offence intended, honest). Just place her on the back seat or, for realistic ballast loading, in the boot, to achieve that "professionally lowered" look.<br><br>(3) Drive slowly... yeah, right...
- alexharries
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Brake Balence, get it looked at<br><br>rear wheels shouldn't lock under hard breaking even round a bend.<br><br> <IMG SRC="http://cgi.deep6.force9.co.uk/ubb/smilies/biggrin.gif">
- Andrew Malcolm
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BRAKING MID CORNER<br><br>Simple as that. Adding more brakes on the back will not help. Yeah you could fiddle with the balance to reduce rear braking - but that is a compromise - change your driving technique instead - plan ahead next time. Slow in fast out, like a proper racing driver. Very much safer too.<br><br>Thank your lucky stars you were in a Fiesta - not a Golf,Cav or something heavier... then you might not have had lunch ever again!!! <br><br>Owain McRae.
- owbow
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This isnt a case of braking mid corner - its a case of ignoring the bedding in period of a new set of dics or pads.<br><br>TAKE IT EASY for the first 100 miles whenever you change discs or pads - you were lucky you werent killed mate!!!
- 2000_16vT
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Get the discs all round, i can asure you its the best thing to do, but make sure that they are balanced properly.
Ive got an RS1800, and yip the drums are bigger, but sometimes in sudden breaking they are stronger than the front and it was them that locked up and took me side ways
Ive got an RS1800, and yip the drums are bigger, but sometimes in sudden breaking they are stronger than the front and it was them that locked up and took me side ways
- Shug
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- Location: scotland the brave
when you buy a new car you are told to run the pads/discs in for 250 miles, and to avoid hard braking during this period. as someone said above, you were lucky you weren't killed by ignoring this!!! you're meant to take it easy on new brakes, not give them the old lead foot on the brake pedal treatment !
- Gaz7
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Stiffer suspention will stop the pitching and help reduce the effect. You shouldn't break round corners either! When I first started drivin my van as it wasn't what I was used to I had major trouble getting my head round the dodgey pitching, body roll, and chronic understeer.
- The Bruster
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