Project Scort, V6 twin turbo. 'Rollin, Rollin' 30-12-07!!
Scort :I need some RS2000 4x4 rear hubs though. So if you know of one being broken, or one in your scrapyard, please, please give me a shout. I don't really want to pay the £150 a side from Ford!
Steve
Isn't Excursion using the 4x4 RS2000 setup for his fiesta?
Maybe worth giving him a shout to see if he's come across any, or has any
- Rodge
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- MotorcyclesFish
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Car: 1984 Ford Capri
Rodge, Cheers mate, don't think he has any spare unfortunately, thanks for the idea though.
Sphinx, Thanks for the pictures bud!
Grant, Not sure I follow mate?!
Hmm some interesting food for thought gents.
Here were my calculations, and some more to think about:
Gearbox:- Getrag with 3.58 Diff
Wheel Circumference:- 1874.90mm
Gear ratios: 1st-4.230:1, 2nd-2.519:1, 3rd 1.665:1, 4th-1.222:1, 5th-1:1
Final Drive: 3.58:1
Top Gear gives 19.525 MPH/1000 RPM and a top speed of 142.535 MPH at 7300 RPM
Top Speed in 1 gear = 33.696 MPH
And changes into 2 gear at 4347 RPM dropping 2953 RPM
Top Speed in 2 gear = 56.584 MPH
And changes into 3 gear at 4825 RPM dropping 2475 RPM
Top Speed in 3 gear = 85.606 MPH
And changes into 4 gear at 5358 RPM dropping 1942 RPM
Top Speed in 4 gear = 116.640 MPH
And changes into 5 gear at 5974 RPM dropping 1326 RPM
Top Speed in 5 gear = 142.535 MPH
I don't think I'm going to have a major problem with those ratio's tbh. For the track I think it's just about right. Time will tell though. As I said previously though, I can easily change the rear diff and completely change those ratio's. Here are the calculations for the 2.88:1,
Gearbox:- Getrag with 2.88 Diff
Wheel Circumference:- 1874.90mm
Gear ratios: 1st-4.230:1, 2nd-2.519:1, 3rd 1.665:1, 4th-1.222:1, 5th-1:1
Final Drive: 2.88:1
Top Gear gives 24.271 MPH/1000 RPM and a top speed of 177.178 MPH at 7300 RPM
Top Speed in 1 gear = 41.886 MPH
And changes into 2 gear at 4347 RPM dropping 2953 RPM
Top Speed in 2 gear = 70.337 MPH
And changes into 3 gear at 4825 RPM dropping 2475 RPM
Top Speed in 3 gear = 106.413 MPH
And changes into 4 gear at 5358 RPM dropping 1942 RPM
Top Speed in 4 gear = 144.991 MPH
And changes into 5 gear at 5974 RPM dropping 1326 RPM
Top Speed in 5 gear = 177.178 MPH
Thats one hell of a difference. Nearly 180mph! As Sphinx quite rightly says though, that does not include drag etc. I'm not going into that at this stage though. Mainly because I'm not interested in doing much past 100mph to be honest.
Just for the sake of it, a BC rs turbo box, with a 6000rpm limit.
Gearbox:- RS Turbo BC Box
Wheel Circumference:- 1874.90mm
Gear ratios: 1st-3.15:1, 2nd-1.91:1, 3rd 1.28:1, 4th-0.95:1, 5th-0.76:1
Final Drive: 3.82:1
Top Gear gives 24.077 MPH/1000 RPM and a top speed of 144.462 MPH at 6000 RPM
Engine speeds in top gear:-
30 MPH = 1246 RPM 40 MPH = 1661 RPM 50 MPH = 2077 RPM 60 MPH = 2492 RPM
70 MPH = 2907 RPM 80 MPH = 3323 RPM 90 MPH = 3738 RPM 100 MPH = 4153 RPM
Top Speed in 1 gear = 34.854 MPH
And changes into 2 gear at 3638 RPM dropping 2362 RPM
Top Speed in 2 gear = 57.482 MPH
And changes into 3 gear at 4021 RPM dropping 1979 RPM
Top Speed in 3 gear = 85.775 MPH
And changes into 4 gear at 4453 RPM dropping 1547 RPM
Top Speed in 4 gear = 115.570 MPH
And changes into 5 gear at 4800 RPM dropping 1200 RPM
Top Speed in 5 gear = 144.462 MPH
I'm lucky in the fact that I can simply change my final drive fairly easily. Certainly in comparison to FWD boxes. I'm convinced that the 3.58:1 will suffice for most of my needs. May be worth getting a 2.88 for brunters etc though!
Steve
Sphinx, Thanks for the pictures bud!
Grant, Not sure I follow mate?!
Hmm some interesting food for thought gents.
Here were my calculations, and some more to think about:
Gearbox:- Getrag with 3.58 Diff
Wheel Circumference:- 1874.90mm
Gear ratios: 1st-4.230:1, 2nd-2.519:1, 3rd 1.665:1, 4th-1.222:1, 5th-1:1
Final Drive: 3.58:1
Top Gear gives 19.525 MPH/1000 RPM and a top speed of 142.535 MPH at 7300 RPM
Top Speed in 1 gear = 33.696 MPH
And changes into 2 gear at 4347 RPM dropping 2953 RPM
Top Speed in 2 gear = 56.584 MPH
And changes into 3 gear at 4825 RPM dropping 2475 RPM
Top Speed in 3 gear = 85.606 MPH
And changes into 4 gear at 5358 RPM dropping 1942 RPM
Top Speed in 4 gear = 116.640 MPH
And changes into 5 gear at 5974 RPM dropping 1326 RPM
Top Speed in 5 gear = 142.535 MPH
I don't think I'm going to have a major problem with those ratio's tbh. For the track I think it's just about right. Time will tell though. As I said previously though, I can easily change the rear diff and completely change those ratio's. Here are the calculations for the 2.88:1,
Gearbox:- Getrag with 2.88 Diff
Wheel Circumference:- 1874.90mm
Gear ratios: 1st-4.230:1, 2nd-2.519:1, 3rd 1.665:1, 4th-1.222:1, 5th-1:1
Final Drive: 2.88:1
Top Gear gives 24.271 MPH/1000 RPM and a top speed of 177.178 MPH at 7300 RPM
Top Speed in 1 gear = 41.886 MPH
And changes into 2 gear at 4347 RPM dropping 2953 RPM
Top Speed in 2 gear = 70.337 MPH
And changes into 3 gear at 4825 RPM dropping 2475 RPM
Top Speed in 3 gear = 106.413 MPH
And changes into 4 gear at 5358 RPM dropping 1942 RPM
Top Speed in 4 gear = 144.991 MPH
And changes into 5 gear at 5974 RPM dropping 1326 RPM
Top Speed in 5 gear = 177.178 MPH
Thats one hell of a difference. Nearly 180mph! As Sphinx quite rightly says though, that does not include drag etc. I'm not going into that at this stage though. Mainly because I'm not interested in doing much past 100mph to be honest.
Just for the sake of it, a BC rs turbo box, with a 6000rpm limit.
Gearbox:- RS Turbo BC Box
Wheel Circumference:- 1874.90mm
Gear ratios: 1st-3.15:1, 2nd-1.91:1, 3rd 1.28:1, 4th-0.95:1, 5th-0.76:1
Final Drive: 3.82:1
Top Gear gives 24.077 MPH/1000 RPM and a top speed of 144.462 MPH at 6000 RPM
Engine speeds in top gear:-
30 MPH = 1246 RPM 40 MPH = 1661 RPM 50 MPH = 2077 RPM 60 MPH = 2492 RPM
70 MPH = 2907 RPM 80 MPH = 3323 RPM 90 MPH = 3738 RPM 100 MPH = 4153 RPM
Top Speed in 1 gear = 34.854 MPH
And changes into 2 gear at 3638 RPM dropping 2362 RPM
Top Speed in 2 gear = 57.482 MPH
And changes into 3 gear at 4021 RPM dropping 1979 RPM
Top Speed in 3 gear = 85.775 MPH
And changes into 4 gear at 4453 RPM dropping 1547 RPM
Top Speed in 4 gear = 115.570 MPH
And changes into 5 gear at 4800 RPM dropping 1200 RPM
Top Speed in 5 gear = 144.462 MPH
I'm lucky in the fact that I can simply change my final drive fairly easily. Certainly in comparison to FWD boxes. I'm convinced that the 3.58:1 will suffice for most of my needs. May be worth getting a 2.88 for brunters etc though!
Steve
- Captain Tightpants
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Project taking a slightly different direction now! Picking up some quality items at the weekend.
Should be able to get on with it a bit more then!
Steve
Should be able to get on with it a bit more then!
Steve
- Captain Tightpants
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- Location: Somerset
Indeed, looks like I'll still be down here at Preston matey...feel free to take a detour and travel through Scumtown to wave at me though
- heeman10
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I tried convincing Sphinx that I was going to use an Aston Martin V8 instead, he wasn't having much of it though!
Engine and much of the drivetrain staying the same!
No worries Heeman, probably better just to get the drive over and done with!!
Well, leaving tomorrow night, 8 hour trip to Glasgow!
Steve
- Captain Tightpants
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Scort ::lol:
I tried convincing Sphinx that I was going to use an Aston Martin V8 instead, he wasn't having much of it though!
Engine and much of the drivetrain staying the same!
No worries Heeman, probably better just to get the drive over and done with!!
Well, leaving tomorrow night, 8 hour trip to Glasgow!
Steve
He's being kind.....I fell for it
When someone is making a twin turbo, V6, rwd mk 4 escort, is it that hard to believe they've changed thier mind and using an aston martin engine?
You can use my car when you prise the keys out of my cold dead hands
- Sphinx
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escortbreakers, Thanks mate, I think!
Sputnix, Hook line and sinker!
Well, as some of you may or may not know, I picked up a Gartrac arched ex-rallycross car at the weekend. With a view to use the alloy wheel arches and maybe some other bits for my car.
I have decided that the rear RS2000 4x4 hubs I was planning on using are not a great idea. I'm finding it very difficult to get hold of any. My problem is that they are designed to take 60% of 150bhp. I'm planning on putting 400bhp straight through them. It's inviteable that I will get failures, and finding replacements will probably be more difficult thatn finding the first ones!! Taking this into account I'm planning on using modified sierra rear arms. This will allow the use of proven cosworth driveshafts and hubs. It's not what I originally planned but thats life I suppose.
These wheel arches will allow me to widen the track on my escort. I removed one side this evening,
You can see how much of the original wings need to be removed. It's not been done that great on this car to be honest. Hopefully I should be able to do a better job.
One side completely removed. They had even stuck in expanding foam between the old wings and the alloy ones!
I have been thinking about a decent way to attach the alloy wings. Originally they are blind-riveted. This is ideal in the rally world, but leaves unsightly Pop-Rivets along the contact points. I decided to have a go with some rivets I managed to find.
I managed to get hold of some countersunk mocel rivets. These have a 120 degree included seat angle. This means I can counter sink them into the alloy wings without losing strength. Once the wings are completely attached they can be filled over and painted, making the panels look as one. I decided to try one on this car on one of the holes where I drilled the rivets from:
Top one is a standard Pop-Rivet, the bottom one is the counter sunk one.
Drilled using a 120 degree included angle.
The rivet fitted. Should leave plenty enough room for the filler to cover all! Very happy with the results. The wings should blend in very well.
I have also managed to aquire a pair of late sapphire cosworth rear driveshafts, and rear hubs. Looking at a set of coilovers at the minute. I want to try and get her sat on her wheels as soon as I can.
Over & Out,
Steve
Sputnix, Hook line and sinker!
Well, as some of you may or may not know, I picked up a Gartrac arched ex-rallycross car at the weekend. With a view to use the alloy wheel arches and maybe some other bits for my car.
I have decided that the rear RS2000 4x4 hubs I was planning on using are not a great idea. I'm finding it very difficult to get hold of any. My problem is that they are designed to take 60% of 150bhp. I'm planning on putting 400bhp straight through them. It's inviteable that I will get failures, and finding replacements will probably be more difficult thatn finding the first ones!! Taking this into account I'm planning on using modified sierra rear arms. This will allow the use of proven cosworth driveshafts and hubs. It's not what I originally planned but thats life I suppose.
These wheel arches will allow me to widen the track on my escort. I removed one side this evening,
You can see how much of the original wings need to be removed. It's not been done that great on this car to be honest. Hopefully I should be able to do a better job.
One side completely removed. They had even stuck in expanding foam between the old wings and the alloy ones!
I have been thinking about a decent way to attach the alloy wings. Originally they are blind-riveted. This is ideal in the rally world, but leaves unsightly Pop-Rivets along the contact points. I decided to have a go with some rivets I managed to find.
I managed to get hold of some countersunk mocel rivets. These have a 120 degree included seat angle. This means I can counter sink them into the alloy wings without losing strength. Once the wings are completely attached they can be filled over and painted, making the panels look as one. I decided to try one on this car on one of the holes where I drilled the rivets from:
Top one is a standard Pop-Rivet, the bottom one is the counter sunk one.
Drilled using a 120 degree included angle.
The rivet fitted. Should leave plenty enough room for the filler to cover all! Very happy with the results. The wings should blend in very well.
I have also managed to aquire a pair of late sapphire cosworth rear driveshafts, and rear hubs. Looking at a set of coilovers at the minute. I want to try and get her sat on her wheels as soon as I can.
Over & Out,
Steve
- Captain Tightpants
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Ooooh 'ark at you with your technical gubbins Good to see its coming along so quickly, you must drive Libs round the bend with your constant tinkering! You thought about sticking something between the panels to prevent too much metal reaction, a thin strip of foam, plastic or something? Might help to keep the tin worm at bay with the dissimilar metals
- Pez
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Definately mate, she loves it really!
These rivets are made a special alloy, used in the Aerospace world, especially for joining this type of dissimilar metal. I'm planning on priming everything before I actually rivet them together properly. With any luck it should prevent any of that tinworm thingy!
Steve
These rivets are made a special alloy, used in the Aerospace world, especially for joining this type of dissimilar metal. I'm planning on priming everything before I actually rivet them together properly. With any luck it should prevent any of that tinworm thingy!
Steve
- Captain Tightpants
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Marvellous, glad to see someone's on the ball. Gotta put up with using a supply of rivets at work that have been on the shelf since 1973! Whitworth, BSF, BSC, all nuts and bolts held on stock with full sets of taps and dies. I cant even remember the last time i saw a whitworth bolt!!
- Pez
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- MAD_Adamski
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- Location: birmingham/shropshire Drives:Fiesta RS, Escort cosworth
looking good!!
i take it that you are riveting because it is alloy (is that alluminium or another alloy??)
what will the flex in the panel be like and how many rivets do you intend to use per arch for example and how will you be attaching them ? round the outside or does it have a lip?
thanks and good luck!
PAUL
i take it that you are riveting because it is alloy (is that alluminium or another alloy??)
what will the flex in the panel be like and how many rivets do you intend to use per arch for example and how will you be attaching them ? round the outside or does it have a lip?
thanks and good luck!
PAUL
Series 1 RS Turbo...broken...again
- eazy394
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Did Steve skid off with his rivet gun? Do you have a pneumatic rivet gun you can use to make sure that doesn't happen? Seeing those arches is making me want to follow the plans we laid out on MSN tonight! If I hadn't done the ZT I could've done ALL that we spoken about! Make a time machine Steve! Make time longer!!!! All sounding good, the countersunk rivet looks to sit juuuuuuust deep enough
- heeman10
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Pez, That sounds like somewhere I used to work mate! Although it's always usefull having those sorts of parts hanging about!
Jedi Sputnik, The force is strong!
FezzR, Cheers mate. It's good to get back tinkering again. It feels like ages since I was last playing!
adamski frst, Cheers man! No problems, any time.
eazy394, Thanks mate. Indeed the arches are made from alluminium. They are made in such a way that there is minimul flex. Some of the gartrac ones I have seen have been filled, and show no sign of cracking over a good few years now. I have thought about bracing it a bit lower down. I will look at that when I come to it though.
Heeman, Yeah!! I will be using a pneumatic one when I come to fit them properly matey! That was the only one I had at the time though! I still say lets do that funky poo to your ZT!
Well had one of those days today. Some pretty s**t things happening in normal life, so a couple of days at the workshop is required! Luckily I managed to pull off a sierra rear axle I had hanging about!
Basically the only parts I am using from this are the swing arms and the main tube.
I stripped down the axle and started to see exactly what needs to be done in order to get the new diff in. You can see the differences in size. The sierra diff looks and feels puny in comparison to the Jag one!
I removed everything bar the essentials. I then cut back all the bracketry for the old diff. This is pretty much useless to me. It will all be redesigned.
After a basic mock up of diff position it became obvious that the diff corners would foul the cradle. I had to cut out some sections and weld in some small pieces.
The diff in its general new position. I have drawn up a plate to mount the front of the diff on. Hopefully I will get this tomorrow and I can get the diff mounted up to the beam properly.
Over the weekend I hope to complete the basic work to the axle.
'Hopefully' we should see the car sat on her wheels again within a couple of weeks!!
Steve
Jedi Sputnik, The force is strong!
FezzR, Cheers mate. It's good to get back tinkering again. It feels like ages since I was last playing!
adamski frst, Cheers man! No problems, any time.
eazy394, Thanks mate. Indeed the arches are made from alluminium. They are made in such a way that there is minimul flex. Some of the gartrac ones I have seen have been filled, and show no sign of cracking over a good few years now. I have thought about bracing it a bit lower down. I will look at that when I come to it though.
Heeman, Yeah!! I will be using a pneumatic one when I come to fit them properly matey! That was the only one I had at the time though! I still say lets do that funky poo to your ZT!
Well had one of those days today. Some pretty s**t things happening in normal life, so a couple of days at the workshop is required! Luckily I managed to pull off a sierra rear axle I had hanging about!
Basically the only parts I am using from this are the swing arms and the main tube.
I stripped down the axle and started to see exactly what needs to be done in order to get the new diff in. You can see the differences in size. The sierra diff looks and feels puny in comparison to the Jag one!
I removed everything bar the essentials. I then cut back all the bracketry for the old diff. This is pretty much useless to me. It will all be redesigned.
After a basic mock up of diff position it became obvious that the diff corners would foul the cradle. I had to cut out some sections and weld in some small pieces.
The diff in its general new position. I have drawn up a plate to mount the front of the diff on. Hopefully I will get this tomorrow and I can get the diff mounted up to the beam properly.
Over the weekend I hope to complete the basic work to the axle.
'Hopefully' we should see the car sat on her wheels again within a couple of weeks!!
Steve
- Captain Tightpants
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Tally ho and shine forth!! I can't wait to see all these things powder coated and painted etc, will all look so spangly
- heeman10
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Wow all looking very nice cant wait to see this finished Keep up the good work
Rich
Rich
BLUE OVAL OWNERS CLUB COME JOIN
- Richard_xr2i1800
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Driveshafts look so small in thickness compared to everything else and to take 400 gee gees through them doesnt look good But loving the Jag rear diff.
Any news on when i can bring my project up to ya for the welding??
Any news on when i can bring my project up to ya for the welding??
- Andy.B
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woow cool project.there is a guy in peter head with a gartrac kitted up escort. things is crazy. as far as i no every time he has drivin it sothing has broken or hes got into a scary situation lik broad siding in the slightest bit of wet
- t4 terrorist
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- Location: aberdeen
Thanks guys.
Any time Andy.
Well after plenty of measuring I managed to decide on the location for the diff in the axle. I have also decided on how I'm going to mount it. While I'm at it I'm going to strengthen the whole assembly. I'm unsure yet as to rosejointing the rear arms. Somthing I will have to ponder over for a while. Not a major Issue to do it at a later date I suppose if I have problems with poly bushes.
The small cutout at the top of the large hole in the front mounting plate allows me to remove the diff without pulling off the drive flange, this should help save time and heartache at a later point, should I never decide/have to change the diff.
You can see here I have strengthened the location points for the rear arms. I have used 4mm MS. This should keep things pointing in the right direction under heave acceleration!!
You can make out the rear holes on the diff. They will locate the rear of the diff, also connected to the rear beam.
I'm planning on mounting the whole rear assembly to the rear chassis legs on the outside of the car, not in the centre like the sierra has.
Steve
Any time Andy.
Well after plenty of measuring I managed to decide on the location for the diff in the axle. I have also decided on how I'm going to mount it. While I'm at it I'm going to strengthen the whole assembly. I'm unsure yet as to rosejointing the rear arms. Somthing I will have to ponder over for a while. Not a major Issue to do it at a later date I suppose if I have problems with poly bushes.
The small cutout at the top of the large hole in the front mounting plate allows me to remove the diff without pulling off the drive flange, this should help save time and heartache at a later point, should I never decide/have to change the diff.
You can see here I have strengthened the location points for the rear arms. I have used 4mm MS. This should keep things pointing in the right direction under heave acceleration!!
You can make out the rear holes on the diff. They will locate the rear of the diff, also connected to the rear beam.
I'm planning on mounting the whole rear assembly to the rear chassis legs on the outside of the car, not in the centre like the sierra has.
Steve
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- Excursion
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Car: 1990 Ford Fiesta XR2i
fabrication king strikes again, personally given your usage you may as well go for rose jointed, its not like your gonna be using it winter months that cause the most problems with the rose joints as far as i know
- FezzR
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Loving the look of that Also like the idea of the wider assembly mounting points. It was such a central position on the original car! Great work!
- heeman10
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Excursion, Thanks doood!
FezzR, Cheers mate! Your probably right about the rose jointing. I will look into getting hold of some at some point soon.
Heeman, Cheers mate. Your right, on the sierra it's completely central. I'm almost tempted to keep it central, but meet up with my cage on the top. It would keep it nice and solid.
RS_Rawli, Thanks mate!
Mannion, I think your right mate. Bound to be a few 'brown pant' moments!!
Well,
My coilovers arrived today! Looks like it could be sat on its wheels soon!
Steve
FezzR, Cheers mate! Your probably right about the rose jointing. I will look into getting hold of some at some point soon.
Heeman, Cheers mate. Your right, on the sierra it's completely central. I'm almost tempted to keep it central, but meet up with my cage on the top. It would keep it nice and solid.
RS_Rawli, Thanks mate!
Mannion, I think your right mate. Bound to be a few 'brown pant' moments!!
Well,
My coilovers arrived today! Looks like it could be sat on its wheels soon!
Steve
- Captain Tightpants
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