fiestaturbo.com

[DunnysMK3]

hi guys,

just purchased a rear strutbrace for my mk3. it came with self-tapping screws, but i was wondering if it would be better to weld it in, rather than use them? is this correct?

thanks, Dunny

[bassboy]

IIRC the weld in strut brace is different to the screw in type...but not 101%

bassboy

[Ollybee]

Ditch the self tappers. Get some stainless M8 nuts and bolts with big washers and put a washer on the inside and outside of the turret. Mount the brace as high up the turret as you can.

It will really sort out the back end. It's the best thing I ever did to mine with regard to handling.

[DunnysMK3]

thanks for that guys, much appreciated!

bassboy: i dont know what type it is to be honest, it came with four self tappers, but there arent any holes drilled in it! so surely, i could do either???

[bassboy]

its hard to say...with the weld in ones...they need to sit flush on the struts...all depends on how well this one sits on them i suppose...whether or not the gap between the brace and the chassis is small enough to weld inbetween

bassboy

[lowsi]

if its an ebay jobbie like the one i got with no holes and self tappers, its alloy, i didn't think you could weld ally to steel?

mines in with then self tappers it was such a tight fit to the struts any way i figured the bolts were just to hold it in place

[Ollybee]

if its an ebay jobbie like the one i got with no holes and self tappers, its alloy, i didn't think you could weld ally to steel?

mines in with then self tappers it was such a tight fit to the struts any way i figured the bolts were just to hold it in place

If they are anything like what came with mine those self tappers are sh!te and the bolt heads shear off. Chuck them away and get some nuts and bolts on the go.

[lowsi]

okeydokey, i will look into that, jus need a front one now

[jayrs]

if its made of steel it can be welded in, dont matter if its not ment to be or not.

i wouldnt advise stainless bolts though, they are weaker than HT steel ones and could snap, although they prob wont.

but ditch the self tappers and bolt it in, self tapping it = might as well not bother

[Tweek]

Stainless bolts are available in HT (8.8 ) unless you mean the ultra high tensile ones that are 10.9 grade which I don't think i've heard of in stainless no.

[Ollybee]

I used HT 8.8 stainless bolts. Wanted stainless so they didn't start to rust and kick off rusting the turrett, even though everything was doorbed in grease as well.

[jayrs]

8.8 is ya standand bolt, and in most case fine for doing the job, yeah there be ok for this job but stainless is not as strong as normal steel.
but as for the rusting thing, yeah its not gunna rust, and the rear end aint jgunna twist so much it breaks the bolts.
the rust fact will come in to it due to drilling a hole in the turret it self, theres ya weak point.
i would use the normal steel bolts myself with a plate on the other side not just big washers, washer are fine but not for me
just copper grease the thread, only in spray with wax oil or spray paint, job done

[knuckles]

This is crying out for a guide

in time for me to follow

[lowsi]

well i painted the holes with underbody sealant to stop the rust, i'll take some pictures when i take it out to put some decent bolts and washers in there

[DunnysMK3]

thanks for all this guys, im sure it was an alloy one, but not 100%

cant wait to get it in (some how) lol

[BUTRE]

The rear strutbrace on the mk3 does not need to be welded into place. Firmly bolt it to the top turrets with the car on the ground. Thats it.

The idea is to keep the same static track geometry when hard cornering since the turrets don't flex anymore.

If you do rally or rallycross, etc etc then only then you should consider welding it into place so that no bolts start getting unscrewed while you're racing.