fiestaturbo.com

[SammyBoy_01]

Just thought id put some pics up of my fiesta rs.

When i got the car i had strange compression readings and the engine rattled and tapped like there was no tomorrow, there were also clouds of smoke coming from the breather filter when it reached running temp...so

Dropped the engine out and replaced all gaskets valves etc, cleaned everything up and built a zvh 1.8 turbo. The engine is now in and running smooth and a good place to start work.

These are the early stages of my project, the back is completely stripped out now and rubbed down so that the arches and floor can be sprayed, still in the process of spraying the strut braces and a few other components. Iv put the rs sticker back on the back as it was de-badged before and am slowly bringing it back up to a nice standard. I plan to keep the back stripped and put harnesses in and hopefully make it look as clean as possible.

Future plans include, treat and remove as much rust as possible, new tyres, new t3, coilovers, half cage, frontmount, rear disk conversion, better brakes, samco hoses etc.

Thanks for looking:

















Sam

[jayrs]

dont look to bad at all mate.

not seen some corner spliters like that fitted for a loooooooooong time though.
its a shame someone fitted a ERST rocker cover and chopped the mountings off the charge carrier, but its not the end of the world.
will watch this thread mate

[SammyBoy_01]

Original Charge carrier is at home mate being prepped and painted along with the strut braces and original rockercover, splitters are coming off aswell have no fear

[jayrs]

fair play mate

[SammyBoy_01]

Thought id update a little...

Just a few pics of the show cage sat in rough position, strut braces and charge carrier mid prep, and removal of the front splitters...

[jayrs]

you wanna give that a mop mate, it will come up lovely

[slaney21]

looks exactly like mine bar the show cage and front seats

[SammyBoy_01]

got a link to any pics matey??

[slaney21]

il put some recent ones up sometime late next week after its been to the bodyshop as i have changed the lights to smoke ones like yours and 3.5 mirrors and all sorts.

[SammyBoy_01]

look foward to it mate, hopefully will have a lot more in my thread by next week. booked a couple of days off this week to play about

[slaney21]

nice one dude. Although i aint mechanically minded i do like to try and get stuck in where possible on mine. Will bookmark and keep tabs on yours dude

[fiend]

Looks good! Black and chrome looks sweet together.

[SammyBoy_01]

Thanks guys..

Chrome can look good if used properly im stripping the back at the moment and a previous owner took the option of angle grinding a flap around the fuel pump rather than dropping tank out so it was peeled back then bent back into position..

I though as an idea to just have a small hinged chequer plate across this to cover it up and look a bit more tidy once all the interior floor has been sprayed black

[SammyBoy_01]

Ok...so, booked a couple of days off work during the week as i thought i could make the most of the sunshine and strip out the back and paint the floor..heres how it went...






























Thanks to Jay RS for the chisel advice, i did use your technique in the end but i would place money on you not being able to do it in under ten mins

Still a fair way to go yet ... The side panels as you can see in the pics that i have left standard, i am thinking of getting some plastic or someting cutting it to shape and carbon wrapping it to cover these, iv seen a similar thing done before at a show and it looked sweet, i will also hide all exposed wires and add a hinged chequer plate over the fuel pump connection where the previous owner took an angle grinder to the seat!

[SammyBoy_01]

oh and one more...

[jayrs]

looking good mate.
you stripped more than boot floor, in which case yeah would take me longer than 10 mins

[SammyBoy_01]

hahaha getting the seats out with a chissel took ages mate

[shaunrs]

great work.

[jayrs]

[Bkjames]

Looks smart


Brian

[jonyb4]

looks smart, dont fancy srubbing all that tar like stuff off the boot floor though

[SammyBoy_01]

Removing the soundproofing wasnt too bad when you get going, just hammer and chissel it off in chunks and then i used break cleaner to remove the sticky glue that was left which came off easy

[SammyBoy_01]

Ok one step backwards and a few steps foward:

Firstly whilst attempting to fit the new hoses i had the pleasure of snapping the heater matrix:

Heres the thread on that i made as at first i didnt have a clue what I'd done:

snap-uh-oh-vt185819/

anyway here was the result:



After obtaining a new one (thanks dannyxr2i)

Was able to proceed:

New heater matrix hoses fitted (carefully!!)



And then the rest of the hoses, You may notice that there are some odd blue hoses involved here - this is due to some hoses not fitting as my engines a zvh and the hoses wouldnt connect to the block correctly leaving me with some spare to cut down and play with





I was unable to find a picture taken before, showing the state of the loom at the front where it connected to the starter motor and alt. It was running around the front resting on the exhaust manifold covered in tatty torn heatwrap and looked a complete mess. I disconnected it all, crimped all new connectors on and wire brushed each contact point, re-routed and neatened up:



Heres how it currently stands. Im trying to source the fittings to connect up the water cooling for the turbo at the moment then it will go back together and be fired up

[shaunrs]

zvh nice! 1.8 or 2.0? what bhp you running

[SammyBoy_01]

Just the 1.8 mate had a block available and mine was knackered on my cvh so went for that option...not sure about brake yet, engines in and running but alot to do, setting up wise and that before i can run it up properly and find out

[SammyBoy_01]

After tidying up the remaining wires and replacing as many bolts with new ones as possible, was time to install pace d.capacity intercooler and rad. The rad when it came out was far from secure held in poorly with some old rusted self tappers, drilled fresh holes and replaced the screws with decent ones with re-positioned brackets at the bottom and bolted in at the top with some new brackets. Rad is now sat in solid and as far left as possible which left a generous amount of room for the intercooler to go in without cutting anything:
















We then fired the car up for the first time in about a month and she went straight away off the jump leads, noticed there was alot of blue smoke when the engine got up to running temp and there was a hissing from under the bonnet. The investigation lead to the dump valve leaking air as it wasnt closed properly and after taking it out and playing with it we realised that the spring inside it just dosent supply enough force to keep the valve shut under the pressure of the engine running.....solution - block the dump valve off, did this and the car seemed to stop smoking as far as i could see but then obviously all you hear is the turbo blades stalling rather than the car dumping which i really dont think is wise considering i have suspicions of my turbo not being to well anyway!! so im now after a new dump valve to see if that works and manages to stay shut.

Took the car for a small run up the carriage way and the torque was unbelievable! looking at the boost guage it only said it was boosting 5psi, im hoping to go to 10 can anybody explain how i will need to adjust my actuator please to achieve this as when i first looked at it it looked like this with the adjusting nut not set and sat where the green line is in the pic:



Thanks in advance, will keep progress updated

[SammyBoy_01]

Oh and heres some of the missing pics from the rs arrival and early build stages:













Slowly getting there:

[jayrs]

coming on well then mate, cooler looks a nice fit too.

the dump valve you have, i take it that its a diaphram one? if so they do stay open a little on idel due to the vac in the vac pipe on the top of it, but rev the car and that turns to pressure and forces the dump valve shut.
and you can get stronger springs for them too, i had a mate that worked at pullmax springs over here that made me a few different ones, all of shich were far to strong, so when i was at ford fair about 4/5 year ago i was talking to matey on the forge stand and he promply whipped out a spring and gave it me and said try that, and didnt even charge me for the spring! worked like new and has done since.

as for adjusting the actuator, if its a standard one you have fitted i would say your need a bleed valve, you can try adjusting the actuator, wnd the end on more so theres more spring load on the rod when you pull it out to put it back on waste gate arm, how much it needs adjusting i dunno, it might not make a difference, meaning your need a -31 or a bleed valve

[rsonblackwheels]

looks really good dude, the rear cabin looks gr8, must get around to doing mine

good job tidying up the engine bay too, looks very tidy, only thing i would say is stay away from rear disc's, these cars are so light the really don't need them and it completely screw's up the braking the bias, i had some very scary moments around castle combe, had to fit a bias valve to get working properly, put the money towards some decent 4pot's on 285mm discs for the front and just renew the rear cylinders,shoes,drum and handbrake cable.

the discs do look lots better than the drums though, but really wasn't worth the hassel if you want to see mine going on check out my thread
rsonblackwheels-fiesta-rst-another-update-back-from-bodyshop-vt160226/

awesome project though dude, keep up the hard work

[SammyBoy_01]

Thanks guys,

ok slowly doing little road tests here and there and today started pissing out water, was the standard hose from the top of the rad where it splits to the turbo cooling pipe. Being the genuine ford one it was not in good condition at all, watching a new samco one on ebay but that ends in 5 days so will have to try and block it off tomorrow for the time being.

Also I mentioned to you before jay about the throttle body being slightly open at all times due to the arm not being a 90 degree angle, as soon as the choke goes off the car realy starts hunting on idle so this also needs to be looked into.

Also i know these cars run hot but dam the heat that comes off whilst idling when up to temp with the bonnet open is unreal, whilst driving the temp drops right down to around n/o on guage and is fine but sat still heats up like a bi*ch. Is there anything i can do to my cooling to aid this in any way? im only running water in the cooling at the mo. I read the other day that anti-freez added increases the waters boiing point aswell as decreases freezing point but then my mate told me this is completely wrong and its only to decrease freezing point so not sure what to think there.

One last debait is, i still havnt found banjo fittings small enough for turbo watercooling, the m18s iv bin told fit all clash with the other bolts on my turbo...My mate whos amazing with cars but owns a skyline not an rs tells me its essential i run water cooling to the turbo whereas my mate who has owned many rs's says theres no point as it just heats the engine water quicker and makes the car run hotter and the turbo will be fine without as long as its cooled by the engines oil (not oil cooler)...Whats the correct anser to this??

So thats, 1) hunting - possibly IDC (any way of testing this for faults?) 2) engine runs really hot on idle once up to temp could host a small bbq (can this temp be reduced? and is anti freez only used to decrease freezing point not increase boiling point??) 3) Water cooling turbo - essential??

[jayrs]

might need another throttle body mate.

antifreeze is ment to aid cooling, but poilling point is upped by the coolent system pressure, keep the cap off and engine will get hot and water will boil at 100 degrees and fastish, cap it and due to the pressure water might not start to boil untill say 130 degrees, pressure temp relationship mate

[SammyBoy_01]

[SammyBoy_01]

[SammyBoy_01]

not quite sure why its cutting the back off of this picture /\

[jayrs]

needs bringing down at the back a bit mate
but looking good