rst conversion... 2i rad conversion.. ..general rambling...
40 posts • Page 1 of 2 • 1, 2
rst conversion... 2i rad conversion.. ..general rambling...
right keep seeing this question poping up so i thought ial write this
Here is from memory what you will need to buy to fit an rs turbo engine into your 8v xr2i
heres what i originally brought:
-i used ofac as its easier to convert your loom to that and i heard its better so you need the:
- ofac ECU
- ofac map sensor
- iat sensor
- charge carrier
-air box with amal valve (although i didnt use either, i just ran a hose from the turbo to the actuator so the car will boost to the actuator settings -
- you need the turbo engine as parts are differnt, although you can use your 2i's head becuase theyre identical
- manifold include turbo
- i used a magnex full system s/s exhaust, not sure if you would be able to use your 2i exhaust, i dont think it sits i nthe same place (from memory) and would probally be too restrictive- recommend fittign 3 new engine mounts as theyre most likley going to b old now but theyre identical to each other
- ideally you need a turbo rad and fan (bear in mind bottom and top rad hoses are differnt from 2i/rs) but you should eb able to pick these up pretty cheap
i used my xr2i rad
1. becuae its bigger and theyre no subsititure for surface area for cooling,
and 2. becuase ive got a front mounted cooler, you cant use a 2i rad and normal intercooler (which you will also need) i will explain this better below
- gearbox, the 2i and turbo ratios are slighly differnt but you can use your 2i box with no problems, but you would be best of with a gearbox from a series 2 rs turbo that has lsd
- as for driveshafts you can keep your 2i items with no problems - - brakes you can also keep these as theyre identical, im going for cossie ones though :D
- all boost hoses, and boost pipe (not sure on its name)
im sure i will add to this list when i think of more stuff...
right i stole this from andy.b so i hope he doesnt mind but it came in very usefull (thanks mate!!)
so the conversion it self:
the fun bit: stripping the 2i engine.. basically every hose/ wire multiplug ect.. has to be removed from the engine
its a good diea to either label make a note or take pics or where everyhting goes i didnt do either o yeah disconect the battery too and put it somewhere (its worth randomly charging it to keep it alive while the car isnt running)
so basically you want an engine that looks liek this but still in the car
naked
- disconect the exhaust
- disconnect the gear box selctor rod and the other one (not sure of name) but thats easy just a 13mm bolt i think (check haynes) might be worth leaving the car in 4th or 2nd so its easier to connect back up in the right place
- driveshafts... they way i did mine was to undo the torz bolt at the bottom of the hub and pivot the part of out of the ball joint (this freeing the hub and out pops the driveshaft.. try yuor best to keep them level or you will damage them.
- unbolt engine undertray that runs from side to side undo the car 4 or 6 17mm bolts i beleive, nothing needs suporting at this stage.
- personally i would advise taking the front bumper off too
- at this stage i put my car up on ramps at the front- to make it easier as the engine has to come from under neath (if your doing the gearbox with it atleast)
- right i think from this stage its hoist time (or scafolding or whateever depending on how mad you are.. the cvh isnt light )
theyre is two lifting eyes on the cvh that you can see , i ran a seat belt through these and gently lifted the engine so i could tell it was slightly suported, i then proceeded to undo all the engine mounts and all the bolts holding on the lower cradle, top engine mount is on the o/s theyre is a bolt behind the wheel and on top of the mount, i think the engine should be then loose. so carefully lower the hoist and your n/a engine should eb on the floor
- dont know if this is right but i lifted the front of the casr with the hoist but it worked and was able to slide the engine from underneath (ive got pics somewhere ial try and find them)
reverse this process, quite awkward lifting the new engine in but it will be able to get into position, then do up the mounts.. its then your job to connect every wire, and hose ect... as pictured it should look sumthign liek this..
and below with the rad held into postion for size ( hadnt seen it done before - but it works )
and here it is with the cooler fitted and the rad
at this point id like to apologise for lots of pics
2i rad
right as the 2i rad is alot wider than the frst rad (not sure on dimensions maybe some one can clue me up out of interest )
so the turbo hoses wont fit.. so what i did was go to the local breakers and cut up hoses untill i could make them fit (as pictured)
the way i joins two hoses was a bit of metal tube an two jubille clips
can kinda see below
and i did the same with this one, as the samco is for a escort cosworth, needed extending to meet the grs
have problaly left lots of out but this post is so long and i cant rmeber what i have written, probs doesnt make sense but i hope it helps anyone planning/ currently doing this conversion
if anyone has nehting too add please tell me or if you want to tell me how much stuff has been bodged just let me know
cheers .... tom
p.s. hopfully more pics to follow
Here is from memory what you will need to buy to fit an rs turbo engine into your 8v xr2i
heres what i originally brought:
-i used ofac as its easier to convert your loom to that and i heard its better so you need the:
- ofac ECU
- ofac map sensor
- iat sensor
- charge carrier
-air box with amal valve (although i didnt use either, i just ran a hose from the turbo to the actuator so the car will boost to the actuator settings -
- you need the turbo engine as parts are differnt, although you can use your 2i's head becuase theyre identical
- manifold include turbo
- i used a magnex full system s/s exhaust, not sure if you would be able to use your 2i exhaust, i dont think it sits i nthe same place (from memory) and would probally be too restrictive- recommend fittign 3 new engine mounts as theyre most likley going to b old now but theyre identical to each other
- ideally you need a turbo rad and fan (bear in mind bottom and top rad hoses are differnt from 2i/rs) but you should eb able to pick these up pretty cheap
i used my xr2i rad
1. becuae its bigger and theyre no subsititure for surface area for cooling,
and 2. becuase ive got a front mounted cooler, you cant use a 2i rad and normal intercooler (which you will also need) i will explain this better below
- gearbox, the 2i and turbo ratios are slighly differnt but you can use your 2i box with no problems, but you would be best of with a gearbox from a series 2 rs turbo that has lsd
- as for driveshafts you can keep your 2i items with no problems - - brakes you can also keep these as theyre identical, im going for cossie ones though :D
- all boost hoses, and boost pipe (not sure on its name)
im sure i will add to this list when i think of more stuff...
right i stole this from andy.b so i hope he doesnt mind but it came in very usefull (thanks mate!!)
Andy.B :[size=11]
Converting an 8v 2i loom to OFAC
1) At the ECU, pin no. 27 (marked on the multiplug, brown wire) needs moving to pin 8, which is empty (this is the CO adjuster signal wire).
2) Pin no. 45 (brown/yellow) needs moving to pin 27 - this is for the MAP sensor.
3) EDIS Module pin 2 (blue/yellow) may now be disregarded as it is not used by the 0FAC ECU (pin 28 on ECU).
There are no MAP sensor pin changes as the OFAC MAP sensor is the same plug as the 2i MAP Sensor, so just plug and play.
so the conversion it self:
the fun bit: stripping the 2i engine.. basically every hose/ wire multiplug ect.. has to be removed from the engine
its a good diea to either label make a note or take pics or where everyhting goes i didnt do either o yeah disconect the battery too and put it somewhere (its worth randomly charging it to keep it alive while the car isnt running)
so basically you want an engine that looks liek this but still in the car
naked
- disconect the exhaust
- disconnect the gear box selctor rod and the other one (not sure of name) but thats easy just a 13mm bolt i think (check haynes) might be worth leaving the car in 4th or 2nd so its easier to connect back up in the right place
- driveshafts... they way i did mine was to undo the torz bolt at the bottom of the hub and pivot the part of out of the ball joint (this freeing the hub and out pops the driveshaft.. try yuor best to keep them level or you will damage them.
- unbolt engine undertray that runs from side to side undo the car 4 or 6 17mm bolts i beleive, nothing needs suporting at this stage.
- personally i would advise taking the front bumper off too
- at this stage i put my car up on ramps at the front- to make it easier as the engine has to come from under neath (if your doing the gearbox with it atleast)
- right i think from this stage its hoist time (or scafolding or whateever depending on how mad you are.. the cvh isnt light )
theyre is two lifting eyes on the cvh that you can see , i ran a seat belt through these and gently lifted the engine so i could tell it was slightly suported, i then proceeded to undo all the engine mounts and all the bolts holding on the lower cradle, top engine mount is on the o/s theyre is a bolt behind the wheel and on top of the mount, i think the engine should be then loose. so carefully lower the hoist and your n/a engine should eb on the floor
- dont know if this is right but i lifted the front of the casr with the hoist but it worked and was able to slide the engine from underneath (ive got pics somewhere ial try and find them)
reverse this process, quite awkward lifting the new engine in but it will be able to get into position, then do up the mounts.. its then your job to connect every wire, and hose ect... as pictured it should look sumthign liek this..
and below with the rad held into postion for size ( hadnt seen it done before - but it works )
and here it is with the cooler fitted and the rad
at this point id like to apologise for lots of pics
2i rad
right as the 2i rad is alot wider than the frst rad (not sure on dimensions maybe some one can clue me up out of interest )
so the turbo hoses wont fit.. so what i did was go to the local breakers and cut up hoses untill i could make them fit (as pictured)
the way i joins two hoses was a bit of metal tube an two jubille clips
can kinda see below
and i did the same with this one, as the samco is for a escort cosworth, needed extending to meet the grs
have problaly left lots of out but this post is so long and i cant rmeber what i have written, probs doesnt make sense but i hope it helps anyone planning/ currently doing this conversion
if anyone has nehting too add please tell me or if you want to tell me how much stuff has been bodged just let me know
cheers .... tom
p.s. hopfully more pics to follow
Breaking 2i, lots of parts available!, pm me
- Tomdom
- Elite Post Master
- Posts: 2681
- Joined: Sun Dec 22, 2002 12:38 am
- Location: Surrey
Nice work mate!
Sure it will come in handy for many people.
I'm quite interested in the pin changes, as the EFi escort, must be wired different to the XR2i. How strange!
Top stuff anyway,
Steve
Sure it will come in handy for many people.
I'm quite interested in the pin changes, as the EFi escort, must be wired different to the XR2i. How strange!
Top stuff anyway,
Steve
- Captain Tightpants
- Elite Post Master
- Posts: 3723
- Joined: Fri Feb 20, 2004 8:25 pm
- Location: Somerset
S1 :Hmmm, Interesting conversion. I think most people take the easy route and stick the engine under the bonnet, but rear engined is cool too.
it wasnt me honest, i brought that car like that (only to get the engine home though £100 everything in that picture not including the frijj
Breaking 2i, lots of parts available!, pm me
- Tomdom
- Elite Post Master
- Posts: 2681
- Joined: Sun Dec 22, 2002 12:38 am
- Location: Surrey
mate can you measure the width of the gap along side the rad and the side of the hole that the rad and intercooler sits in!
ta mate
ta mate
- xrsi
- XR(ustyAtTheMo)SI
- Posts: 7351
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- Location: shropshire
right the gap where the intercooler sits on an frst with the FRST rad....
can u measure the gap that is still there after fitting an xr2i rad?
can u measure the gap that is still there after fitting an xr2i rad?
- xrsi
- XR(ustyAtTheMo)SI
- Posts: 7351
- Joined: Thu Jan 01, 1970 1:00 am
- Location: shropshire
right the gap where the intercooler sits on an frst with the FRST rad....
can u measure the gap that is still there after fitting an xr2i rad?
can u measure the gap that is still there after fitting an xr2i rad?
- xrsi
- XR(ustyAtTheMo)SI
- Posts: 7351
- Joined: Thu Jan 01, 1970 1:00 am
- Location: shropshire
Nice work! Whats the bike on the right of the 4th picture? Looks pretty smart(total guess frmo the lever and the DMR pedals )
- royalwithcheez
- Post Master
- Posts: 816
- Joined: Thu May 06, 2004 12:50 pm
- Location: Bedfordshire
royalwithcheez :Nice work! Whats the bike on the right of the 4th picture? Looks pretty smart(total guess frmo the lever and the DMR pedals )
dmr pedals... nahh! theyre eastern pedals.. its a federal division and other random parts my other baby
stoned whos that? - off i go to tuning forum
xrsi- the gap is.. roughly 3 and a hlaf inches, it could be slighyl more if needed, dpends how far forward back or to the side you mount the rad
hth
Breaking 2i, lots of parts available!, pm me
- Tomdom
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- Posts: 2681
- Joined: Sun Dec 22, 2002 12:38 am
- Location: Surrey
bmx's and Turbo'd fez's cant get better than that
Last edited by ~Tony~ on Thu Sep 23, 2004 10:03 pm, edited 1 time in total.
still need to update this sig
- ~Tony~
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- Location: Old Leake, Commonside. Lincolnshire
- Your car: FRST, FRS mk1, Defender 90
XR2iTony :bmx's and Turbo'd fez's cant get better than that
it rules
shall i make this post into a guide for my car
- mk5 dash
- mk5 tailgate
- 16x45 and -60+mm
- anything else
everythings been easy and fun
Breaking 2i, lots of parts available!, pm me
- Tomdom
- Elite Post Master
- Posts: 2681
- Joined: Sun Dec 22, 2002 12:38 am
- Location: Surrey
Tomdom : shall i make this post into a guide for my car
- mk5 dash
- mk5 tailgate
- 16x45 and -60+mm
- anything else
everythings been easy and fun
You left out:
- cok skoffer in the driving seat
- heeman10
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- Location: Somerset
- Your car: Audi TT TDI Quattro S line
Ah rite they look like polished dmr V8's frmo where im sitting, nevermind! i used to ride mtb trials, i was gutted when i sold my bike for nearly a third of what it was worth
- royalwithcheez
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2.1 Zetec Turbo ERST S2. T34 Hybrid Turbo. Tubular PVE Manifold. Rover Inlet. Stage 2 CTS Box. 3" - 4" Mongoose. Stripped out. Corbeau Revolution Seats.
6 Point Safety Devices Cage.
- purple_fiesta
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- Location: Redcar
2.1 Zetec Turbo ERST S2. T34 Hybrid Turbo. Tubular PVE Manifold. Rover Inlet. Stage 2 CTS Box. 3" - 4" Mongoose. Stripped out. Corbeau Revolution Seats.
6 Point Safety Devices Cage.
- purple_fiesta
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- Posts: 3328
- Joined: Tue Aug 10, 2004 11:23 pm
- Location: Redcar
get em posted, fiestaturbobmx.com
2.1 Zetec Turbo ERST S2. T34 Hybrid Turbo. Tubular PVE Manifold. Rover Inlet. Stage 2 CTS Box. 3" - 4" Mongoose. Stripped out. Corbeau Revolution Seats.
6 Point Safety Devices Cage.
- purple_fiesta
- Elite Post Master
- Posts: 3328
- Joined: Tue Aug 10, 2004 11:23 pm
- Location: Redcar
hahah!heeman10 :How long did you balance with your back wheel on that post for?
there hard as fook they are
2.1 Zetec Turbo ERST S2. T34 Hybrid Turbo. Tubular PVE Manifold. Rover Inlet. Stage 2 CTS Box. 3" - 4" Mongoose. Stripped out. Corbeau Revolution Seats.
6 Point Safety Devices Cage.
- purple_fiesta
- Elite Post Master
- Posts: 3328
- Joined: Tue Aug 10, 2004 11:23 pm
- Location: Redcar
40 posts • Page 1 of 2 • 1, 2
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