Running Two Amplifiers? Help needed.
14 posts • Page 1 of 1
Running Two Amplifiers? Help needed.
I want to get a four channel amp and have all of my speakers powered by it. I already have a good mono amp for my sub.
Firstly I'm really unsure as to how i can wire it all up. Any help would be appreciated here.
I'm thinking of running a a single 4awg power cable to one amp then just connecting the second one in series, each with their own ground cable. What size can the ground cable be minimum? Is this an acceptable way of running the power cable?
Secondly Total current draw will be 90A (50A+40A) can a standard fiesta Si alternator cope with this? It seems to be fine at present, with no headlight dimming with 50A sub/amp setup.
Cheers. Rich.
Firstly I'm really unsure as to how i can wire it all up. Any help would be appreciated here.
I'm thinking of running a a single 4awg power cable to one amp then just connecting the second one in series, each with their own ground cable. What size can the ground cable be minimum? Is this an acceptable way of running the power cable?
Secondly Total current draw will be 90A (50A+40A) can a standard fiesta Si alternator cope with this? It seems to be fine at present, with no headlight dimming with 50A sub/amp setup.
Cheers. Rich.
- richard_p88
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4 gauge should be ok
ive got two wires coming from battery 1 feed 1 earth it is the distributed to my amps.
it wont be a 90 amp load all the time there will be times where it will be but for the most of it it will be lower than that unless you have it absolutely full volume all the time which yes you will have problems
ive got two wires coming from battery 1 feed 1 earth it is the distributed to my amps.
it wont be a 90 amp load all the time there will be times where it will be but for the most of it it will be lower than that unless you have it absolutely full volume all the time which yes you will have problems
1.6 si coming soon
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- Gazeddy
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I'd go at leas 4ag wiring kit. 0ag kits can be had off ebay for not much more cash, and will allow you to expand in the future. Best way to wire it is to have the main power cable go into a fused distribution block, with one wire going to one amp, and the other to the other amp. As for earth cables, they should be as thick as the + wire going into the amp.
The alternator will cope with that ampage fine, as you will not have your stereo on 100% every time your driving. It is still worth to upgrade the big three though, and then from there upgrade to a decent ice battery before getting an uprated alternator, which cost about £150
The alternator will cope with that ampage fine, as you will not have your stereo on 100% every time your driving. It is still worth to upgrade the big three though, and then from there upgrade to a decent ice battery before getting an uprated alternator, which cost about £150
Just because I keep talking about definetly doing it doesn't mean I'm actualy going to do it.
- lucasdemoley
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Thanks people. I Think i'll just go for 4awg at the minute, the autoleads kit PC4-29 seems to come with everything i'll need including RCA's for each pre-out on my headunit, and all terminals fuses etc.
All i need after that is speaker cable.
At present i usually turn the volume up to 25 out 35 or 30 if I want it LOUD, But i suppose with an amp, similar volumes will be gained at a lower outputs.
All i need after that is speaker cable.
At present i usually turn the volume up to 25 out 35 or 30 if I want it LOUD, But i suppose with an amp, similar volumes will be gained at a lower outputs.
- richard_p88
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Just a point to note, amps should NEVER be earthed to the car battery!
But using the ditribution block is the best way, although i ran my set up in series which is also fine.
Also remember to fuse the wire and not the amps! They have there own fuses, so for 4AWG i reckon you will need a 100AMP fuse, as im running 4AWG with a max draw of 70AMPS. Just something i learnt from a competition installer.
But using the ditribution block is the best way, although i ran my set up in series which is also fine.
Also remember to fuse the wire and not the amps! They have there own fuses, so for 4AWG i reckon you will need a 100AMP fuse, as im running 4AWG with a max draw of 70AMPS. Just something i learnt from a competition installer.
- Wilson106
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I have the main wire fused from the battery, as you should, and also the + wires from the distribution block fused. THis is because my main + is 2ag and has a 200 amp fuse, this goes through the distribution block into a 4ag and 8 ag cable, which are seperatly fused, with 4ag fused at 100 amps, and 8ag at 40 amps. If i did not have the second fuse for the 8ag, if it was to short circuit, the 8ag would probibly overheat and melt before the 200 amp fuse bust.
IM just stasting this as above implies you only need one fuse., and not all distribution blocks are fused.
IM just stasting this as above implies you only need one fuse., and not all distribution blocks are fused.
Just because I keep talking about definetly doing it doesn't mean I'm actualy going to do it.
- lucasdemoley
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Agreed, I made an assumption that most people buy fused distribution blocks.
But the point has been made above about correctly fusing the wires relative to their size, to avoid a potential fireball situ. (this is also why positive wires are not connected to the battery as there is more chance of the wires melting and fusing together under load and shorting the whole car.)
If the earth is seperate then this potential issue is avoided.
But the point has been made above about correctly fusing the wires relative to their size, to avoid a potential fireball situ. (this is also why positive wires are not connected to the battery as there is more chance of the wires melting and fusing together under load and shorting the whole car.)
If the earth is seperate then this potential issue is avoided.
- Wilson106
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Wilson106 :Just a point to note, amps should NEVER be earthed to the car battery!
why? it seemed like the best idea to me give them the smoothest supply possible
1.6 si coming soon
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- Gazeddy
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because the battery isn't designed to earth them.
that is why all of the electrics are earthed to a car body to provide a better ground!
Starter motor, alternator etc are all earthed to the body and the battery's earth itself is bolted to the body.
All i can say is it potentially unsafe to earth them to the battery.
that is why all of the electrics are earthed to a car body to provide a better ground!
Starter motor, alternator etc are all earthed to the body and the battery's earth itself is bolted to the body.
All i can say is it potentially unsafe to earth them to the battery.
- Wilson106
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The alternator charges the battery, the other side of the alt is connected to the car, so connect the amp to the car as an earth.
That doesnt really clear things up, but lets just say, less cabling so will be cheaper. 0 point connecting amp neg to battery.
That doesnt really clear things up, but lets just say, less cabling so will be cheaper. 0 point connecting amp neg to battery.
Just because I keep talking about definetly doing it doesn't mean I'm actualy going to do it.
- lucasdemoley
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Nice ol 4awg kit
http://www.dvbcaraudio.co.uk/product/Ca ... g_Kit.html
could sort you out a disti block for a few quid too
http://www.dvbcaraudio.co.uk/product/Ca ... g_Kit.html
could sort you out a disti block for a few quid too
- mikeysabes
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ill move that in a bit then
1.6 si coming soon
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- Gazeddy
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Thinki'll just stick with http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=014&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&viewitem=&item=330055613292&rd=1&rd=1 for the wiring, comes with everything i'll need, including RCA's for a dual setup. Also i think the one you pointed out only has an AGU fuse which seem near impossible to find above 80A. I'll need the ANL type.
- richard_p88
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richard...ill match the price http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/AUTOLEADS-PC4-29- ... dZViewItem
and we have in stock
bassboy
and we have in stock
bassboy
- bassboy
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14 posts • Page 1 of 1
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