fiestaturbo.com

[Mikee_RS]

k i know this has been ask a million times but im more or a zetec person so i gotta learn bout my turbos, wots the best way to tune my new motor, in wot order should i get things, its runin on its original t2 turbo with ajustable boost screw which im not that keen on takin that far. it also has a piper cam, think its the mild one.

[MIK3Y]

OK only IMO; im new to the game myself and assuming i get a completly standard FRST im thinking of the following engine mods (experts correct me if something else is better);

*) Im gonna make sure the water pump, cam belt & tensioner are all good.

*) Dump valve goes with-out saying.

1) PACE intercooler (should be good for stage 1 boost and should immediatly make it a little nippier)

2) Piper/Kent performance mild cam kit. (get some decent valve seals with it plus u can get an uprated head gasket while ur at it) WHICH IS BEST FOR A FRST BTW?

3) IK & Xorst for obvious reasons (thinking Magnex 4'' would prefer 3.5 but don't do it plus Green coton filter)

4) Uprated fuel pump.

5) Bayjoo 165 chip set-up to fuel correctly at a boost of approx 14psi.

SHOULD BE 170BHP with only about a grand spent!

[Mikee_RS]

ive got pipercross induction kit
dump valve
mild piper cam
magnex zorst

[MikeyXR2i]

Go for a Mongoose system, they are the less restrictive systems.

[MIK3Y]

Yeah but restriction equals more low down torque doesn't it?
So all u need is number 5 and number 4 if u wish then ull have a beast!

[MikeyXR2i]

I don't think it does, ive always been under the impression that the fumes got to get out quickly, as to make room for the fuel, but there has to be a certain amount of back pressure.

[MIK3Y]

I dont know anything about what's best for turbo cars but i like back pressure in N/a cars cause when i fitted my de-cat pipe it wouldn't put me back in my seat at all in my Clio 16v.
So re-fitted my cat to get that low speed torque back although it was better when accerating over 70mph but where's the torque/fun in that?
I assume the same principle applies up to a certain point with turbo cars aswell although don't hav a clue?
Blowing through a straw is hard as is blowing through a drain pipe but it's a LOT easier to blow through a toliet roll tube & all that!

[Mikee_RS]

is it ok 2 chip a standard T2?
the turbo seems 2 b fine (at the moment) the car has dune 90k but been looked after well

[MIK3Y]

Yeah, it'll give u the excuse to get a T25 when it goes.

Seriously; jus shorten it's life so ive heard but if it goes then it was gonna go soon anyway IMO.

[Fezzy Turbo]

Hello...................

This is Fezzy's recommendations for stage1 or 165: If modding engine, start with reliability! If your car has 60k+ then it's time for a new cam.....choose anyone u want with a vernier pulley. This will then give u the opportunity to change the headgasket and check the piston crowns and bores are ok. Get the head and valves checked out and cleaned. Change the valve stem seals. Get the head polished (exhaust only) and ported (exhaust and intake). New head bolts WILL be needed! An uprated AP plate clutch will also be needed.
Put it all back together and run in the engine for 1000 miles! with a Mongoose exhaust and a good air filter (cone or panel)
DO NOT touch the boost leave it at standard.
After 1000 miles, take to your local tuner get 165 chip and get boost set to around 12psi for a std T2 and std I/C. You will NOT need to upgrade your fuel pump or injectors. Watch out for your gearbox, it might not like the hike in power after it's had an easy life for so long......you have been warned!

This is basically what i have done to my car, which is still running 40k miles later on original T2 and I/C.

Any questions ??

[Mikee_RS]

cheers mate sounds good,
wot milage has urs done, mines done 91 but just had new cam and cambelt and major ford service

[MIK3Y]

''Questions?'' I have a mind full of them.

''Get the head and valves checked out and cleaned. Change the valve stem seals. Get the head polished (exhaust only) and ported (exhaust and intake). New head bolts WILL be needed! An uprated AP plate clutch will also be needed''

How much will that all cost? Ive budgeted for a new cam/pullie so on top would be an AP clutch = £250. I know a good guy who will do head work for less than most places so how much am i looking at for getting the head polished and ported aswell as having the valves cleaned?

[Fezzy Turbo]

My car has 140k....ish on the clock

When you take the head off, you will need to replace the valve stem seals and remove all other parts. Get a jet/steam washer and blast your head to get rid of any dirt and carbon. Then send it away to get ported and polished. As for price of port and polish, i have no idea..........shop around. Then you put it all back together with new valves IF needed (£20 each for a exhaust valve) and new stem seals. If not just use your old ones after giving them a check over. Buy new head bolts from Ford.
Your only £150 - £175 for an Ap organic plate clutch, your pricing a Paddle type clutch which you wont need unless your going for much bigger power.

[Quantum]

Good advise from Fezzy as usual

I pretty much went through the stages Fezzy has said, including eating the diff in the 'box 2 days after the setup My car has run really well since the chip (even though its a Superchip) and is nice a reliable. To keep it reliable do not play around with the boost or fueling unless you REALLY know what you are doing.

My car has neary 93k on the clock with the original turbo and block and it was chiped 1 year/13k ago.

Regards,
Stephen