Tuning FRST
24 posts • Page 1 of 1
Tuning FRST
After i have doen the initial breathing mods what is the best next step?
Im not going to just up the boost and have it running lean, want it all done properly.
Does this mean 165 superchip, upgrade the actuator, up boost to 14psi? Then get it all fitted and set up somewhere with rr'd.
Im after about 180bhp though, what else needs to be done to get that for now 'safely'.
Last thing, does anyone know of any respectable companies in or around the south east/london area that can sort the fuelling and ignition etc when i get this all done. Web links would be great.
Thanks in advance
Im not going to just up the boost and have it running lean, want it all done properly.
Does this mean 165 superchip, upgrade the actuator, up boost to 14psi? Then get it all fitted and set up somewhere with rr'd.
Im after about 180bhp though, what else needs to be done to get that for now 'safely'.
Last thing, does anyone know of any respectable companies in or around the south east/london area that can sort the fuelling and ignition etc when i get this all done. Web links would be great.
Thanks in advance
- StevenW
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>
Superchip or decent 2nd hand 165 chip and a good blead valve, then set to 14psi (on a T2), make sure it's up to date with the servicing and everything is in good shape such as the turbo and injectors and u shouldn't have any trouble.
Life moves pretty fast. If you don't stop to look around once in a while, you could miss it.
- MIK3Y
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Shouldnt the fuelling be sorted once the boost is upped? Last thing I want is to stuff the engine by just upping the boost.
As tempting as it is to just use a bleed valve, ive heard bad things about them and would rather get it done properly to save money in the long run.
As tempting as it is to just use a bleed valve, ive heard bad things about them and would rather get it done properly to save money in the long run.
- StevenW
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>
Bleed valves can be fine if u leave them alone once uve set the boost, i know a Escort Cossie that's had 10000s spent that uses 1.
You can buy a 14psi T2 actuator if ud prefer, the 165 chip will sort the fueling for 14psi with a T2 turbo as long as everything related such as fuel pump and injectors are fine, gud oil, buy sum RWD cossie plugs as the standard plugs could miss with higher boost. (NGK9s, under £10 anyway).
IMO your wasting money buying a new 1 and having the fueling checked AS LONG AS EVERYTHING IS IN GUD NICK NOW.
You can buy a 14psi T2 actuator if ud prefer, the 165 chip will sort the fueling for 14psi with a T2 turbo as long as everything related such as fuel pump and injectors are fine, gud oil, buy sum RWD cossie plugs as the standard plugs could miss with higher boost. (NGK9s, under £10 anyway).
IMO your wasting money buying a new 1 and having the fueling checked AS LONG AS EVERYTHING IS IN GUD NICK NOW.
Life moves pretty fast. If you don't stop to look around once in a while, you could miss it.
- MIK3Y
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That sounds promising, my mate has an R5 Turbo running at 14psi so need to get up to his pace
I pick the car up Thursday, going to service it on the weekend, new spark plugs, oil, leads, oil and fuel filter, put some injector cleaner in.
So do you mean the 165 superchip just plugs in to the ecu and sorts all the fuelling out? That simple?
If so ill buy one, up boost to 14psi and use a bleed valve, then ill have what? About 160bhp?
I pick the car up Thursday, going to service it on the weekend, new spark plugs, oil, leads, oil and fuel filter, put some injector cleaner in.
So do you mean the 165 superchip just plugs in to the ecu and sorts all the fuelling out? That simple?
If so ill buy one, up boost to 14psi and use a bleed valve, then ill have what? About 160bhp?
- StevenW
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Howdy, just going through the forums I noticed you and me have a lot in common! I drive an FRST with a full magnex system, K&N induction at the moment, I'm getting a 165 superchip at the weekend I hope!
To boot- I have a mate with a Renault 5 GT Turbo who's got a T25 hybrid running about 18psi (once he's done his head gasket after he found out water had been in the sump!)
I'm looking at taking the car to Power Engineering soon to tweak the superchip for my car, and I'm getting a pace intercooler and T25 myself when finances allow.
I'd definitely recommend better hosing and a full service. I'm gonna change the plugs and leads once I've done the hosing throughout. Just remember that you should invest in a boost gauge early to keep a watchful eye on the engine! It certainly helps to problem solve if something does go wrong! I reckon once that lot is done I'll be nearing the 200bhp mark (give or take).
To boot- I have a mate with a Renault 5 GT Turbo who's got a T25 hybrid running about 18psi (once he's done his head gasket after he found out water had been in the sump!)
I'm looking at taking the car to Power Engineering soon to tweak the superchip for my car, and I'm getting a pace intercooler and T25 myself when finances allow.
I'd definitely recommend better hosing and a full service. I'm gonna change the plugs and leads once I've done the hosing throughout. Just remember that you should invest in a boost gauge early to keep a watchful eye on the engine! It certainly helps to problem solve if something does go wrong! I reckon once that lot is done I'll be nearing the 200bhp mark (give or take).
- PipMaz
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Re: >
MIK3Y :Superchip or decent 2nd hand 165 chip and a good blead valve, then set to 14psi (on a T2), make sure it's up to date with the servicing and everything is in good shape such as the turbo and injectors and u shouldn't have any trouble.
There is no need for a bleed valve whatsoever. 14psi will kill your T2 stone dead in no time.
MIK3Y :Bleed valves can be fine if u leave them alone once uve set the boost, i know a Escort Cossie that's had 10000s spent that uses 1.
If it's already on the car DON'T TOUCH IT! If there isn't one, don't even think about fitting one...
MIK3Y :You can buy a 14psi T2 actuator if ud prefer, the 165 chip will sort the fueling for 14psi with a T2 turbo as long as everything related such as fuel pump and injectors are fine
165 chip only removes or raises the boost limit, it does nothing to the fuelling or the ignition. This will need to be set by someone who has the correct equipment and knows how to use it.
There are two ways to go from here, the bad way - over strained T2, fuelling on the limit and sky high inlet temps, or the good way:
T3 (Stage 1 if possible), decent intercooler - 2wd Cosworth or GRS, -31 actuator and 10-12psi. This way you're not stressing the turbo, the fuelling isn't on the limit, and your charge temps are low, which = free power (pretty much).
The next step from here is bigger injectors, an uprated fuel pump and a stage 2 chip / map from someone like Ahmed or MSD (not Superchips).
Alternatively a cam or head work to suit the T3.
- AdrianFRST
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Car: 2010 Ford Focus RS
PipMaz :I'm getting a pace intercooler and T25 myself when finances allow.
A bit of advice - the Pace cooler is barely an improvement over the standard item and is certainly not worth the money (unless your getting a good deal second hand < £100). As above, Cosworth or GRS are the ones to go for.
The T25 / Hybrid T2 is getting on for a grand and will be struggling to produce 200bhp. A T3 is half the cost and a lot more up to the job. Yes it's more laggy but it pulls clean to the redline, doesn't produce so much heat and back pressure and isn't prone to the T2's cracked housing and oil return problems.
- AdrianFRST
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Car: 2010 Ford Focus RS
>
I agree on the T25 vs T3 debate Adrian but a Superchip is a decent 165 chip IMO and why spend so much more on a mapped 1 when it's not gonna do much if ur keeping blu injectors?
I had a Superchip with boost peaking at 14psi with a hybrid T3 and that fueled alright.
Might as well blow the T2 up b4 buying a new 1 so 14psi [ERRR] do that as you said.
Plus a chip DOES adjust fueling as well as removing the boost limiter.
I had a Superchip with boost peaking at 14psi with a hybrid T3 and that fueled alright.
Might as well blow the T2 up b4 buying a new 1 so 14psi [ERRR] do that as you said.
Plus a chip DOES adjust fueling as well as removing the boost limiter.
Life moves pretty fast. If you don't stop to look around once in a while, you could miss it.
- MIK3Y
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Nothing wrong with the 165 Superchip, all the 165 / stage one chips are the same, except for the Ahmed one which has some extra tweaks. The 195 Superchip, I'm told, is a bad map though.
165 / stage one - only removes or raises the boost limit.
195 / stage two - ditto, but also adjusts the fuelling (by way of injector duty cycle I think) for 701 / beige injectors.
But yep, your perfectly correct there is no point in a custom map for the std blue injectors.
One thing to be aware of is that the condition of the fuel pump will affect the fueling and consequently how much boost can be run, with two seemingly identical setups one might run leaner that the other at any given boost level.
Generic, hence it being fine as a boost limit adjustment tool but not really ideal when getting more serious, over 12psi boost etc.
165 / stage one - only removes or raises the boost limit.
195 / stage two - ditto, but also adjusts the fuelling (by way of injector duty cycle I think) for 701 / beige injectors.
But yep, your perfectly correct there is no point in a custom map for the std blue injectors.
One thing to be aware of is that the condition of the fuel pump will affect the fueling and consequently how much boost can be run, with two seemingly identical setups one might run leaner that the other at any given boost level.
PipMaz :Excellent - thanks for the tip, incidentally, do you know if the superchip for the fiesta is a generic mapping, or is each one custom done to the car?
Generic, hence it being fine as a boost limit adjustment tool but not really ideal when getting more serious, over 12psi boost etc.
- AdrianFRST
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Car: 2010 Ford Focus RS
The only thing you can get checked is your fuel pressure, or the condition of the wiring, but thats not checking the condition of your fuel pump. The main problems that happen are the "radio suppression" block fails or the pump itself.
Burton Power do the fuel pumps ...... get a new one!
Tel : 02085542281
Std : ITP049 £75.75 + vat
Uprated : ITP044 £112.35 + vat
I would recommend getting the uprated pump so if in the future you decide to go for more power you know your already sorted for the pump.
Burton Power do the fuel pumps ...... get a new one!
Tel : 02085542281
Std : ITP049 £75.75 + vat
Uprated : ITP044 £112.35 + vat
I would recommend getting the uprated pump so if in the future you decide to go for more power you know your already sorted for the pump.
Greg : Owner of a FRST for 14yrs
2009 FRS2 : 377bhp ATW / 395lb/ft
1990 FRST : Sold.
2009 FRS2 : 377bhp ATW / 395lb/ft
1990 FRST : Sold.
- Fezzy Turbo
- Tartan Turbo Terror
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- Your car: mk2 Focus RS
Car: 2009 Ford Focus RS
The only thing you can get checked is your fuel pressure, or the condition of the wiring, but thats not checking the condition of your fuel pump. The main problems that happen are the "radio suppression" block fails or the pump itself.
Burton Power do the fuel pumps ...... get a new one!
Tel : 02085542281
Std : ITP049 £75.75 + vat
Uprated : ITP044 £112.35 + vat
I would recommend getting the uprated pump so if in the future you decide to go for more power you know your already sorted for the pump.
Burton Power do the fuel pumps ...... get a new one!
Tel : 02085542281
Std : ITP049 £75.75 + vat
Uprated : ITP044 £112.35 + vat
I would recommend getting the uprated pump so if in the future you decide to go for more power you know your already sorted for the pump.
Greg : Owner of a FRST for 14yrs
2009 FRS2 : 377bhp ATW / 395lb/ft
1990 FRST : Sold.
2009 FRS2 : 377bhp ATW / 395lb/ft
1990 FRST : Sold.
- Fezzy Turbo
- Tartan Turbo Terror
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- Joined: Wed Aug 02, 2000 1:00 am
- Location: Aberdeenshire
- Your car: mk2 Focus RS
Car: 2009 Ford Focus RS
Ive only gotta a std t2 on my car - but 5thou miles old tho, but its running 12 and paeking to 13.3 psi from a 165 chip and hks boost controller. the turbo has been fine since jan when i had everything done and hopefully it will remain that way .
but [ERRR] of the controller i dont run that psi all the time only, normally run like 5 psi. But my next aquirements will be a new cooler and hose set.
Sorry to steal the post but whilst on the turbo lines are all t25 hybrids the same as i saw one on ebay brand new that sold for £300 ????
Thanks
Matt
but [ERRR] of the controller i dont run that psi all the time only, normally run like 5 psi. But my next aquirements will be a new cooler and hose set.
Sorry to steal the post but whilst on the turbo lines are all t25 hybrids the same as i saw one on ebay brand new that sold for £300 ????
Thanks
Matt
- MattL
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Ive only gotta a std t2 on my car - but 5thou miles old tho, but its running 12 and paeking to 13.3 psi from a 165 chip and hks boost controller. the turbo has been fine since jan when i had everything done and hopefully it will remain that way
Have you adjusted the fueling in any way? Have you got a bleed valve to let you run that boost?
- StevenW
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- Location: Windsor, Berks
If you have the car chipped, and an hks boost controller, wouldn't it just be easier to just go with the boost controller, then upgrade to a T3?
What I'm trying to say is - dont the boost controller and the chip cancel each other out? Cos the chip raises the boost limit to 12(ish), then the HKS raises it again ?
What I'm trying to say is - dont the boost controller and the chip cancel each other out? Cos the chip raises the boost limit to 12(ish), then the HKS raises it again ?
- PipMaz
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>
The chip doesn't raise it, it 'allows' it to be raised by overwriting the safety limit on the ECU so it's doesn't cut out and adding a basic fuel map for the extra boost with a 165 chip.
A bleed valve and/or an actuator controls the boost. OR the daddy is an electronic boost controller which u type in ur boost, say 15psi and it adjusts valves inside the unit to hold 15psi. Whereas u have to get ur hands dirty and do it manually with an actuator but u can change it at any time and by the pressing of buttons with an electronic controller.
A bleed valve and/or an actuator controls the boost. OR the daddy is an electronic boost controller which u type in ur boost, say 15psi and it adjusts valves inside the unit to hold 15psi. Whereas u have to get ur hands dirty and do it manually with an actuator but u can change it at any time and by the pressing of buttons with an electronic controller.
Life moves pretty fast. If you don't stop to look around once in a while, you could miss it.
- MIK3Y
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Basically as Mick3y says, the chip allows the boost limit to be raised on the ecu - the elecy controller doesnt candel the chip out it just allows you to raise and lower the boost as you want, with precise calculation, not like hit and miss on a bleed valve.
Without the chip you would still hit the boost limiter at 9psi or watever is.
if setup properly you can easily run a 165 chip on a std t2, its just wen u wanna take the boost up over 14psi then u need a hybrid or somehthing bigger - thats [ERRR] pts told me wen my car was chipped neway.
cheeRS
Without the chip you would still hit the boost limiter at 9psi or watever is.
if setup properly you can easily run a 165 chip on a std t2, its just wen u wanna take the boost up over 14psi then u need a hybrid or somehthing bigger - thats [ERRR] pts told me wen my car was chipped neway.
cheeRS
- MattL
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OK here goes -
I bought mine on ebay for 140 quid in Jan, its bout three years old tho. the latest HKS and Blitz ones are like £350 and up but u can get some good deals on ebay. Only really look at HKS and Blitz [ERRR] others are really meant for Jap cars. But PTS was the best buy as it monitors the boost better then the basic Blitz one.
I had to buy a few extras from Grahame Goode, like rubber hose and some mini 2mm and 4mm air filters but other than that it came with everything.
you mount the controller some where in the car then connect using a multi plug adpater wiring loom thing it comes with to a solenoid control unit in the engine bay. The solenoid unit has four ports, one for exhaust exit and the other three for hose connections, 1-turbo housing, 2-inlet manifold and 3-actuator, if i remeber correctly.
the hardest part is mounting the solenoid unit somewhere in the engine bay as it has to sit in an upright position and close to the turbo so it can control the pressure effectively.
Check out my gallery for pics of the in car unit and the solenoid unit is seen in the engine bay pics sitting just next to the induction kit - the thing with 3 small hoses coming off it.
I fukin love mine but i wouldnt have bough it brand new, but they are good.
hope this helps abit
I bought mine on ebay for 140 quid in Jan, its bout three years old tho. the latest HKS and Blitz ones are like £350 and up but u can get some good deals on ebay. Only really look at HKS and Blitz [ERRR] others are really meant for Jap cars. But PTS was the best buy as it monitors the boost better then the basic Blitz one.
I had to buy a few extras from Grahame Goode, like rubber hose and some mini 2mm and 4mm air filters but other than that it came with everything.
you mount the controller some where in the car then connect using a multi plug adpater wiring loom thing it comes with to a solenoid control unit in the engine bay. The solenoid unit has four ports, one for exhaust exit and the other three for hose connections, 1-turbo housing, 2-inlet manifold and 3-actuator, if i remeber correctly.
the hardest part is mounting the solenoid unit somewhere in the engine bay as it has to sit in an upright position and close to the turbo so it can control the pressure effectively.
Check out my gallery for pics of the in car unit and the solenoid unit is seen in the engine bay pics sitting just next to the induction kit - the thing with 3 small hoses coming off it.
I fukin love mine but i wouldnt have bough it brand new, but they are good.
hope this helps abit
- MattL
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- Location: Uni in North London or Sussex
blinding result - cheers fella!
Since I've got some proper fiesta RS bods watching this....can someone tell me how I can tell how much my car has been dropped by? The previous owner had knois put on it, but I don't know how much it's been dropped by...and I want to order my 7x16's tomorrow!!! Help! Am I gonna get problems?
Since I've got some proper fiesta RS bods watching this....can someone tell me how I can tell how much my car has been dropped by? The previous owner had knois put on it, but I don't know how much it's been dropped by...and I want to order my 7x16's tomorrow!!! Help! Am I gonna get problems?
- PipMaz
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- Joined: Wed May 12, 2004 4:02 pm
- Location: Bedford
24 posts • Page 1 of 1
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