Upgrading FRST Brake cylinder
36 posts • Page 1 of 2 • 1, 2
Upgrading FRST Brake cylinder
I know a couple of you have done this and upgraded to MK5/6 Escort master brake cylinders
Was the upgrade worth it, and if so does anyone have a guide of how it is done?
Was the upgrade worth it, and if so does anyone have a guide of how it is done?
- Stoned
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Why would you want to change the FRST Servo/master cylinder? There are many FRST's with MAD power running larger brakes conversions using the std FRST cylinders with no probs.
- chumkila
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So the brakes work better. Isn't it obvious?
Mine had good stopping power but the pedal feel was terrible and if you have larger caliper cylinders you'll get more pedal travel.
It's not so noticeable with some of the smaller 4 pots, but on others it is.
A bigger master cylinder will move more fluid with the same pedal travel.
Mine had good stopping power but the pedal feel was terrible and if you have larger caliper cylinders you'll get more pedal travel.
It's not so noticeable with some of the smaller 4 pots, but on others it is.
A bigger master cylinder will move more fluid with the same pedal travel.
- AdrianFRST
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Car: 2010 Ford Focus RS
- chumkila
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Just because I dont have a 300bhp fire breathing monster doesnt mean I dont want good brakes mate!
I very much like my car and keep a safe distance from other cars so nothing can happen, but roads round here are very hetic at times and other people do silly things.
The brakes are already at Escort RS2000 level and already the pedal has lots of travel before really biting. Once I'm on cossie fronts it will get worse from what people say AND I hope to do rear discs using Ade's MK5 rear beam and focus discs method
And for that I want to insure a good brake cylinder first you see.
I doubt it's an expensive conversion so it's not a big deal from my point of view. Just looking for pointers.
I very much like my car and keep a safe distance from other cars so nothing can happen, but roads round here are very hetic at times and other people do silly things.
The brakes are already at Escort RS2000 level and already the pedal has lots of travel before really biting. Once I'm on cossie fronts it will get worse from what people say AND I hope to do rear discs using Ade's MK5 rear beam and focus discs method
And for that I want to insure a good brake cylinder first you see.
I doubt it's an expensive conversion so it's not a big deal from my point of view. Just looking for pointers.
- Stoned
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- chumkila
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the pedal is totally crap, when having disks all round, using the standard master cylinder, i found this when i did my brakes all round, but when changing the cylinder to a MK5 Escort item, the pedal is unreal, you have no travel, just solid byte. Stops better than any big family car now.
- MikeyXR2i
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Right then, you need to get a servo and master cylinder, and the pedal bar that goes through the bulkhead to the pedal, and also mounting brackets from a MK5 escort. Strip all the old gear off, (Draining Fluid first) but the mounting brackets off the escort need to be drilled to match the stud offset on the fiesta bulkhead, so what i did was, Knock the studs ouf of the brackets, bolt the old fiesta brackets and escort brackets together face to face, 2 of the holes will line up, but 2 won't, so put a drill through the existing hole in the fiesta bracket, and drill the same hole dead in line into the escort bracket.
Then put the studs in the holes on the escort brackets, these studs have little teeth on them so they sink into the metal and not turn when tightening the nuts up from inside. Now, put some sealent on the bracket faces, put the cross bar and bush and the spring back into the escort brackets, then get someone to go inside up under the dash and tigtening the nuts, while your holding the brackets.
Now its time for the MK5 Escort servo, attach the plunger (rod) from the back of the servo to the cross bar, using the white plastic pin, then attach the clip to stop the pin coming out.
Now bolt the servo to the brackets and tighten 3 nuts except for one, reason being is, you need to attach the stabilzing bar up, which goes down to the steering rack, to stop things flexing, but it needs modding, the bolt in the steering rack needs to be taking out, as you need the stabilzing bar off, as it fouls the escort bracket and won't go on the 4th stud on the back of the servo. Take a little off the side of it where it bolts to the escort bracket, Do this using a Bench grinder. Once you have done it, put a little paint on it to stop the edge rusting. Once dry bolt the stabilzing bar to the servo and tighten the 4th nut, then attach the bar back to the steering rack and tighten the bolt.
Now the servo's mounted, slide the master cylinder into the servo, making sure the rubber seal is around it, and tighten the 2 studs up on the front of the servo. Now you need to carefully shape the original brake pipes to line up with the holes in the Escort MK5 Master cylinder.
Once done, tighten fully being carefull not to cross thread. (Don't fill the resivoir with fluid yet) Now, thats all the servo and master cylinder complete.
But go in the car, and you will notice the brake pedal is no longer level, its down on the floor, this is due to the MK5 Escort mounting brackets being longer than the fiesta brakets, you will also notice the Servo and master cylinder mounted further forward now.
You now need to change the rod going through the bulkhead(by header tank) to the pedal, this is not easy, as there is no way to remove it from the main cross bar, as its permantly fixed with a pin that is crimped, this needs to be cut using a Junior hacksaw blade (without handle) so be carefull, once cut through, go inside the car and take the clip off the brake pedal that holds the bar to it. The bar should now slide out from the bulkhead from under the bonnet.
The escort bar needs to have another Slit cut into it for the clip that holds it to the pedal, as well as spacing is needed to get the pedal the right height as the clutch. A spacer made from metal of some sort is needed, something that will slide onto the bar.
Once this is complete the bar needs to be re-attached to the main cross bar under the bonnet, using a Bolt with a blank shoulder on it, and exactly the right diamater as the holes in the bar, as you don't want any play in the pedal setup. Also use a Nylock nut on this bolt to tighten it. But don't crank it up to tight.
Now fill the system up with Fresh fluid and do a full bleed, with an assistant of course. I think ive covered most of it, its a bit complicated setup, but one that works stunningly.
Then put the studs in the holes on the escort brackets, these studs have little teeth on them so they sink into the metal and not turn when tightening the nuts up from inside. Now, put some sealent on the bracket faces, put the cross bar and bush and the spring back into the escort brackets, then get someone to go inside up under the dash and tigtening the nuts, while your holding the brackets.
Now its time for the MK5 Escort servo, attach the plunger (rod) from the back of the servo to the cross bar, using the white plastic pin, then attach the clip to stop the pin coming out.
Now bolt the servo to the brackets and tighten 3 nuts except for one, reason being is, you need to attach the stabilzing bar up, which goes down to the steering rack, to stop things flexing, but it needs modding, the bolt in the steering rack needs to be taking out, as you need the stabilzing bar off, as it fouls the escort bracket and won't go on the 4th stud on the back of the servo. Take a little off the side of it where it bolts to the escort bracket, Do this using a Bench grinder. Once you have done it, put a little paint on it to stop the edge rusting. Once dry bolt the stabilzing bar to the servo and tighten the 4th nut, then attach the bar back to the steering rack and tighten the bolt.
Now the servo's mounted, slide the master cylinder into the servo, making sure the rubber seal is around it, and tighten the 2 studs up on the front of the servo. Now you need to carefully shape the original brake pipes to line up with the holes in the Escort MK5 Master cylinder.
Once done, tighten fully being carefull not to cross thread. (Don't fill the resivoir with fluid yet) Now, thats all the servo and master cylinder complete.
But go in the car, and you will notice the brake pedal is no longer level, its down on the floor, this is due to the MK5 Escort mounting brackets being longer than the fiesta brakets, you will also notice the Servo and master cylinder mounted further forward now.
You now need to change the rod going through the bulkhead(by header tank) to the pedal, this is not easy, as there is no way to remove it from the main cross bar, as its permantly fixed with a pin that is crimped, this needs to be cut using a Junior hacksaw blade (without handle) so be carefull, once cut through, go inside the car and take the clip off the brake pedal that holds the bar to it. The bar should now slide out from the bulkhead from under the bonnet.
The escort bar needs to have another Slit cut into it for the clip that holds it to the pedal, as well as spacing is needed to get the pedal the right height as the clutch. A spacer made from metal of some sort is needed, something that will slide onto the bar.
Once this is complete the bar needs to be re-attached to the main cross bar under the bonnet, using a Bolt with a blank shoulder on it, and exactly the right diamater as the holes in the bar, as you don't want any play in the pedal setup. Also use a Nylock nut on this bolt to tighten it. But don't crank it up to tight.
Now fill the system up with Fresh fluid and do a full bleed, with an assistant of course. I think ive covered most of it, its a bit complicated setup, but one that works stunningly.
- MikeyXR2i
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SJH has advised me on how he did it. Provided you have access to someone with a welder it sounds really quick and easy.
Luckily my family mechanic is happy to do the welding so I'll be getting hold of the parts and giving it to him to fit and weld the piece required
Luckily my family mechanic is happy to do the welding so I'll be getting hold of the parts and giving it to him to fit and weld the piece required
- Stoned
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Stoned m8, if your going down the welding route, it is easier as, you only need to shorten the rod by an inch, going into the escort servo, that way the pedal stays the right height.
- MikeyXR2i
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no welding needed
i`ve got the mk5 rs 2000 master cylinder and mk5 escort servo got rid of all my metal brake pipes and have now got braided hoses from master cylinder through out the mk5 rs2000 has only two outlets so i`m running a splitter to seperate back to front no pedal travel what so ever the brakes are back like they where when i was running four pots with my drums i now have 300mm discs all round l`ll be at traxs so if u are going you could come and have a look will be with the 200plus club red fiesta turbo reg h646xgw i am also on the track at 12.00
i`ve got the mk5 rs 2000 master cylinder and mk5 escort servo got rid of all my metal brake pipes and have now got braided hoses from master cylinder through out the mk5 rs2000 has only two outlets so i`m running a splitter to seperate back to front no pedal travel what so ever the brakes are back like they where when i was running four pots with my drums i now have 300mm discs all round l`ll be at traxs so if u are going you could come and have a look will be with the 200plus club red fiesta turbo reg h646xgw i am also on the track at 12.00
- turboboss
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Right got me a Escort MK5 Brake cylinder and servo from my local breakers. Took a while to get it out and stuff but it looked in good nick and the car has apparently only done 29,000 miles (hopefully not 129,000!!)
Pics!
SJH: Can you confirm thats everything I need mate?
If so I'll get the car booked in asap to have this fitted and the bit welded at the back
I'll let you know how we get on
Only bummer is my chrome cover isnt gonna fit this. Guess I had best find another.
Pics!
SJH: Can you confirm thats everything I need mate?
If so I'll get the car booked in asap to have this fitted and the bit welded at the back
I'll let you know how we get on
Only bummer is my chrome cover isnt gonna fit this. Guess I had best find another.
- Stoned
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yeah, as you say 2 of the holes have to be slighly changed for the studs to line up. Make sure the welding is done pucker as you don't want anything going wrong, brakes must be a 100% safe, thats why i didn't do the welding bit and did it another way. But as long as its done properly, can't you do it yourself? if your getting someone to do it, i would be there watching.
- MikeyXR2i
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I dont have a welder mate nor have I ever used one. My mechanic is a top bloke and he wont skimp or rush the job.
Besides all he really has to do is drill 2 holes, cut 1 rod and do a little welding.
Actually this was something keeping me awake last night wondering. Which rod is it that needs to be cut?
The one going back from the servo like in my pics, or the thick meaty one that runs from the brake pedal, and along the back of the engine where it joins to the brake servo?
Besides all he really has to do is drill 2 holes, cut 1 rod and do a little welding.
Actually this was something keeping me awake last night wondering. Which rod is it that needs to be cut?
The one going back from the servo like in my pics, or the thick meaty one that runs from the brake pedal, and along the back of the engine where it joins to the brake servo?
- Stoned
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well when i was doing the job, if i was to use the welding situation, would have been to shorten the rod going into the back of the servo, to make the pedal height the same as normal.
- MikeyXR2i
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yeh it is the rod that drives the master cylinder the rod with the clevis pin on.
as its only pushing the rod just a little tak weld is needed easiest way to weld is remove the clevis pin shorten the rod and then weld the clevis pin on.
good luck geeza.
let me know when you find the shiny bits and how much i wouldnt mind getting some.
Laters Si.
as its only pushing the rod just a little tak weld is needed easiest way to weld is remove the clevis pin shorten the rod and then weld the clevis pin on.
good luck geeza.
let me know when you find the shiny bits and how much i wouldnt mind getting some.
Laters Si.
- sjh
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yeh it is the rod that drives the master cylinder the rod with the clevis pin on.
as its only pushing the rod just a little tak weld is needed easiest way to weld is remove the clevis pin shorten the rod and then weld the clevis pin on.
good luck geeza.
let me know when you find the shiny bits and how much i wouldnt mind getting some.
Laters Si.
as its only pushing the rod just a little tak weld is needed easiest way to weld is remove the clevis pin shorten the rod and then weld the clevis pin on.
good luck geeza.
let me know when you find the shiny bits and how much i wouldnt mind getting some.
Laters Si.
- sjh
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36 posts • Page 1 of 2 • 1, 2
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