fiestaturbo.com

[AW3K]

Yes this guide looks like the XR2I/RST and RS1800 fitting guide but I assure there are slight differences,

This is guide two of four, showing the different ways to do it using ford parts,

This guide is for the XR2I, RS Turbo and RS1800 Fog lights with Driving lamps and SI and S models.
Hence the name of this guide. XRSI fogs. I found this wiring set up on a L or M Reg SI (Cant remember which) at a scrap yard, it was a transition model with the old fuel cap but later spec interior and re-enforced doors, where they used MK3 and MK3.5 parts together, confusing if you own one and want parts.

So go out and find a Higher spec Fiesta from a scrap yard for this guide its either XR2I, RS Turbo and RS1800, S and early SI, the ones with the two lights at either side of the bumper.

We’ll start inside the car. What you need is the switch, the relay and all wiring.
To start, remove the ashtray, the heater slider controls and the heater control knob, simply pull all these out.
Remove the radio if its there, although sometimes it can be left in and pulled out with the panel.
Then remove the panel that surrounds all the above, done by removing two screws at the bottom and one in the middle inside the ashtray aperture, using a small flat bladed screw driver, prise out the top of the panel.



The switch you require is on the right of the switch row, the one with the picture of a light shining down at an angle.
Put your hand up behind the switch via the radio hole and push the switch out, or use a screwdriver to prise it out from the sides. DO NOT pull the switch with the button part, as it WILL DAMAGE it.

Disconnect the wiring multiplug and the single illumination wire. Put the switch safe so you don’t loose it.
Disconnect the other switches, as it will make the next bit a little easier.




Release the fuse box from the dash and cut all the cable ties under the dash at the driver’s side and pull down the complete wiring loom.
Unclip the wiring from the dash and pull the switch section of wires free from the bottom of the dash.
With the wires in full view, you now must cut away the insulation tape to show the wires(use a Stanley knife or scalpel).

First thing that you will notice is that the single illumination grey/yellow wire is attached to the solid grey wire coming from the blue multiplug. This wire is also attached to the side light circuit and all the other illumination wires connects to this, the grey from the rear fog light switch all attach to this also.
Cut this wire just after the join so the grey/yellow and grey wires from the switch are connected together.

The next wire is the earth, the brown one, follow this wire to the solder join and cut it there.



Here’s where it starts getting tricky, you will notice the grey/black and black/yellow wires now. Do not cut these unless absolutely necessary. Follow these wires through the loom to the fuse box.
Now you are at the fuse box you will need to separate the two halves, fuse side and relay side.

With the fuse side in hand, find fuse 14, it’s the 3rd one in on the top row from the left.
Take out the fuse, use a small flat screwdriver and poke each side of the connector to release the barbs and push the connector back. Hopefully the wire that you just released is black/red, that connects directly to a relay, Relay C to be specific.
You will also need the positive feed to fuse 14, this is on the fuse box and the connector covers fuses, 12, 13 and 14. If you look at the back of the fuse board you will see this, you will also see that there is a black/brown wire going to fuse 5, this will also need to be poked out, the black wire from the connector is connected to the ignition relay pin 87, this wire will need to be removed. The simplest way is to pull the relay out, release the relay holder, pull it up, using a small screwdriver, poke down either side of the connector and pull it free from the relay board.




With that wire released, look at the relay side of the board, find relay C, its a little white one slap bang in the middle.
Pull out the relay and keep safe, in fact, take them all, you never know you may need them. Using a screwdriver, prise down the tab at the side of the connecter block and push it up from behind using the black/red wire.
Now that the connector is free from the relay board, use a very small screwdriver and poke down either side of the connectors to release them all. Pull the wires back through the relay board. Keep the black connector block as more than likely you wont have this.





The brown Earth from the relay will need to be cut at the solder joint and removed.
The grey/black from the relay is the same as the grey/black from the switch so simply pull it out of the loom from the switch end.
Notice that the black/yellow wire connector from the relay has 2 of the same wires into the one connector
The thinner one is to the switch, if you can; free this wire from the loom. If the scrappers wont let you cut the rest of the wires, you will need to cut it to remove it.
The thicker wire goes off up the loom out into the engine bay, so that’s where we are going now.

The fog light loom is separate from the rest of the loom from the suspension turret forward as it plugs into the standard loom by the means of a 6 way multiplug.
Simply unplug this loom from the main loom and unplug the fog lights if there and pull the loom out of the car from under the front valance.




Now you can remove the rest of the fog light loom and the simplest way I found to do this is to open the insulation tape up at the multiplug and take note of where each wire from the plug goes, there should be 2 white, 1 black/yellow and 2 brown.

One of the brown wires will go to the earth point on the wing. Unbolt the earth and remove all the other earths at the solder point apart from the single earth you need from the multiplug.

The other brown wire will join to the blue/green wire in the loom, cut this wire off there, either at the join or cut a chunk off so you will remember the colour.
There will also be a short white wire that connects to the white wire from the headlight, again do as above and remove it.
The next white will be a long one with no solder join. Do not cut this wire as it needs to remain long.

The reason I say to keep this single white wire is because it connects to the headlight wiring from fuse 10. Simply cut this off at the solder join from fuse 10 where the white is connected to the white/blue.



The black/yellow will also need to remain long as it is connected to the relay.

Remove the header water tank to gain access to the rubber grommet behind it. The lighting passes through this separately to the main loom.
Cut the rubber grommet so that the wires and plug can be pulled through into the car.
Pull the wires through and proceed to cut the insulation tape away where the clump of wires joins to the main loom.
Cut all the wires away so that you are left with the white and black/yellow. Remove these from the car with the relay and switch wiring.



Refitting and loom making.

I could just say that refitting is removal, reversed. But it isn’t as simple as that.

Start with the switch, the grey and grey/yellow wires, remember they were soldered together, now you need to solder a small length to the end of these, long enough to reach the next switch in the panel. Insulate the join with heat shrink or insulation tape.




The earth wire from the switch needs to be extended to reach the relay at the fuse box, the simplest way to do this is to solder the wire to the earth from the switch and insulate it, then tape this wire to the grey/black and black/yellow wires until you get to the fuse box taking consideration to allow the grey/yellow and grey wires out of the loom quite close to the switch multiplug to enable it to be connected to the next switch wiring.




Work with the relay wiring now.
The black/red wire is independent so requires no attention.
The black/yellow needs a little bit of insulation tape near the connector to reduce strain on it.
The grey/black also requires no attention as it is connected to the switch.

Wrap the wires and work towards the switch end making sure that the thicker black/yellow wire is not being wrapped as it goes to the fog multiplug on the wing.




The earth from the relay and the earth from the switch need joining together at the fuse box, a neat way of doing such a thing is to use a piggyback connector.
These connectors can be bought from any auto electricians or from where I got them from http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk.
You will also need an insulator and some heat shrink to neaten it off.
Put the heat shrink on first then the insulator then crimp the connector on with a pair of pliers, if you want you can also solder the wires in for more security and better connections.
Push the insulator over the connector and heat shrink the end to stop it from moving.







The black/yellow and long white from the 6 way multiplug need to be taped together, start from the plug and work backwards down the loom until you get to the end of the white wire.



With these wires taped up now you can prep the rest of the wires. If you didn’t mark these wires or remember what went where then you will need to find out.
I did this as I forgot which brown was what because I cut the earth ring off by mistake. So you need to feel along the lower section of loom until you find the solder joins/crimps. Once found you will notice that there is a crimp that has 3 brown wires going in and 1 coming out. This is the earth. You will need to plug in the other half of the plug and add tension on the wires while you feel which is pulling and which are slack to identify the correct wire, it may take some time but you will get there.
The earth is a thicker wire on the car side of the plug, makes sense really.




The other brown wire is the wire that needs to be connected to the blue/green wire from the headlight.
The shorter white wire needs to be connected to the white from the headlight.
So these wires will need to be extended towards the front of the car.
Bend these two wires and the earth wire that is terminated in a ring under the connector and tape in position.




While still working with the multiplug, use a small screwdriver and pull out the blue/red protector cap from within the multiplug and poke out the black/yellow and long white wire connectors.

That concludes the loom making,

Refitting.

Now get to your car and disconnect the battery, making sure that you know the radio key code.
Get inside the car and remove the fuse box to gain access to the loom entry point rubber grommet under the dash.
Fist thing you need to do is to get the fog loom that belongs in the car and find the long white and black/yellow that you removed from the multiplug above. Push these two wires that are taped together up through the rubber grommet out into the engine bay.



If not done so already, remove the header tank and route the wires down the wing to where the suspension turret is and return the header tank to its normal position.
Push the connector pins back into the multiplug in the right positions and replace the blue/red plastic stopper.
Lay the loom that bends under the connector down the inner wing within the cable clips until you get to the earth point, where the earth ring from the fog light loom will need to be connected. Unbolt the original earth point and then bolt it back with the new earth as well.
Continue to lay the loom to the headlight; this is where it needs to be soldered and insulated.
Brown from multiplug to blue/green and white to white.





Now back inside the car you can separate the relay and fuse sides of the box as mentioned previously.




Take the relay section of wiring and insert the wires into the holes in the space for relay C.
The wires and positions are as follows:
Black/red in the very end large hole,
Black/yellow in the middle
Grey/black in the small hole towards the rear
Brown in the small front hole.




Bend the barbs back out and grab the plastic insert and push the wires up into it until the barbs grip, then push the insert back into the fuse box until it clicks.




Remember that piggyback connector that you put on the ends of the earth from both the switch and relay?
Well now is the time to use it. On the relay side of the fuse box there will be a metal strip along the back edge with a number of brown wires connected to it.
Pull out one of these connectors and push it onto the piggy back of the new connector from the relay.
Push this assembly onto the prong where you took the earth connector off.





Push the relay in and turn the relay board over and find the position of fuse 14.




Now an awkward section, remember that section of wire we removed covering fuses 12, 13, and 14 with the flying lead to fuse 5 and the ignition relay. Well yes of course you do, well its time to fit it.
Poke out your existing wire set up, this will cover fuses 12 and 13 with the lead going to the ignition and fuse 5. Use the method described above to do this.
On the new wire that covers all the above and fuse 14 the barbs need bending back ready to be accepted into the fuse box.
Make sure that the wires are the right way around and insert them into the box.
Now you will notice that in the position of fuse 14 there is only 1 connector, well this is where the black/red wire from the relay that you didn’t plug in lives. Bend the barbs back and push home.
DO NOT put a fuse in yet.




Now is the time to find the white wire from fuse 10 where it is connected to the white/blue.
This is where the single white wire from the fog light loom needs to be connected.
Just before the solder join, bare a section of wire and simply strip the end off the white from the new loom and solder it and insulate it here.



Route the wiring that’s left up under the dash to the middle, where it needs to be directed to the switch panel.
If not already done so, remove the switch panel surround to gain access to the existing switches.

Pop out the rear fog light switch from behind and unplug the switch.
Push the wiring multiplug through the right switch aperture ensuring that the single illumination wire is not in this aperture, it should come out of the next switch hole.
Strip a section of insulation from the illumination wire (Smaller connector) on the exposed section of wire. Strip the end of the single illumination wire from the front fog light switch and wrap it around the bare wire and solder it to make a good connection. Insulate this with insulation tape and fasten all the wires together to ensure they are secure and not able to move.
Refit both fog light switches and replace the trim panel making sure you remove the blanking plug from the panel.





Put the fuse box back together and put it back up into the dash along with all the wiring that will need to be cable tied to make it secure.
Go back to the fuse box and put a fuse into position 14 and reconnect the battery and hopefully everything should be ok.



go back outside the car and plug the rest of the loom in and rout it down under the headlight and to the lower valance and clip it on just under the radiator with a plug at either side.






To test the fog lights and driving lamps you first must plug the lamps into the multiplugs in the lower valance at the front of the car.
Put your key in and turn the ignition on, then put the sidelights on, they should work normally.
Flick the switch to normal headlights and they should also work normally, and then pull the stalk back as if you were flashing someone and the driving lamps should come on with the full beam but go off immediately when the stalk is released.
Push the stalk forward to make the full beam on all the time and the driving lamps will be illuminated as well.



The fog lights are independently switched on via the switch in the dash, but they will not work unless the main beam is switched on.




Yet another long winded guide I have written but as you may agree its worth it.

Hope it is of some help and happy Modding.

Guide written by AW3K Andrew Whiteman, 14th September 2005

[Max M4X WW]

Shame your so far away matey i could do with someone to give me a hand with the masses of wiring that i need doing!

[Captain Tightpants]

Very good an all that,

But could you not have added this onto your other guide in the guides section? Would be far more usefull there.

This will be lost forever in a few days!

Steve

[AW3K]

Very good an all that,

But could you not have added this onto your other guide in the guides section? Would be far more usefull there.

This will be lost forever in a few days!

Steve

i think project will move it , he better do hehe just kidding.

i could have added it on yes , but its a bit different and it would have made that guide very very long.

has any one else ever seen this set up with a multiplug etc?

Max add me to msn if you want

Andy

[AW3K]

up, i will not let this drop of the face of the earth lol

Andy

[AW3K]

up we go,

can some one stick this in the guides forum?

Thanks

Andy

[AW3K]

can some one shift this to the guides forum please

thanks

Andy

[White_Ford_Rich]

very detailed an extremly helpfull, nice one fella!

i gota wire my cossie fogs up... (might wait till summer now) i wonder if the wirein is already there? ive come across a few things that only need fittings to work...dont understand y they couldnt have put them in when car was in build prosess when the relays/circuits that went in even if it is/was a poverty spec model 3dr with a bigger engine

[AW3K]

very detailed an extremly helpfull, nice one fella!

i gota wire my cossie fogs up... (might wait till summer now) i wonder if the wirein is already there? ive come across a few things that only need fittings to work...dont understand y they couldnt have put them in when car was in build prosess when the relays/circuits that went in even if it is/was a poverty spec model 3dr with a bigger engine

thanks mate i try

they do it to save time and money and to make it eiser if the owner wants optional packs adding,

the car i took this loom from had the wiring for the switch taped up behind the blank in the dash.

what things have you come accross then?

Andy

[White_Ford_Rich]

thats all good then so far i have put in 140MPH clocks (with Rev counter) an works fine...i have come across wirein for boot pop an boot light and added lecky windows (although that was my own wirein) havent had a look for anythin else, but will do now

[curly]

ive just done mine, n didi it completely diferent


i went out n baught

an 8 peice fuse box
a 4 to 1 distributor
about 5 metres of 4guage
2 new switches(go on and off)
loads of terminal connections
loads of 6 quage and 8 guage


i put my fuse box ans terminal in where the tool box is under the passanger foot well

connect a batery connector to the 4 guage,

and either trace it up to where the ecu is and tap in under there, to the tool box bit
or trace the wire to the back and along to the gromit section above the front window behind the antifreeze tank and through underneigth the whel, and origional ford fuse box
n then hide the 4 guage under the plastic dash, n trace it to the tool box thing

scre 4 holes for the distributor, and fit it to the plastic backing in the tool box bit, and screw the 4guage in

then screw the fuse box in, and fit 2 wires thick enuf to carry 15amps



right

get 2 switches , i went for 2 blue ones, after market type, about a quid at halfrauds, and cut them in to my plastic spacers(where some switches should have been on my dash) n theres abit of cutting to the dash to be done to fit the switches


go to the fig lights, take them out, and which ever way you went in to the car(if you went in by the ecu work from drivers side to passanger side, ) and vise versa for the opposite,

youll need to strip the connectors, and put a ring terminal on all browns, and screw a self taper or something of sumsort, in to the body work, to give a good earth point, its worth getting a wire pad to it to strengthin the earthing

get some wire now, simular thickness to the fog/spot wires, and connect them with bullet connectors, to the black wire, and with the extra wire connec the extra wire and the black wire of the other fog, and stick them together, in another bulet connector, its worth knowing if you put the female connector on to the live feed so the metal,doesnt touch n low your car up,

right with the felmale, bullet coneector, stick to some wire same thickness, and trace it which ever way you did for your 4 gauuge, and connect to one of your switches, (it should say "acc" which means the power to turn on off)

do the same for the white wires, to another switch,

put 2 15amp fuses in your new fuse block, and trace 2 wires thick enuf to carry the current, and conect them to your live on the switch, and then get enuf wire to connect to the earth, and source it to a good earth point,


and if youve done it right, youll be able to turn your fogs and spots on if and when you like